Sometimes life comes at you fast. Ā Sometimes, that means stories in the food industry break in such rapid succession that you have no time to blink in between. Ā Sometimes, it means someone found out about something racist you did a few years ago. Ā What happens when itās both? Ā Ask the fine folks at Bon Appetit.
In recent years, Bon Appetit made a name for itself, rising from the ashes of dying print media, through its Youtube channel featuring a diverse cast of personalities. Ā But over the course of this past week, many of the publicationās executives have been found to foster a toxic workplace culture, rife with racism, sexism and homophobia. Ā
Before I get too deep (because this is going to be a long one), I feel the need to point out that while this storyās breaking happened to coincide with Black Lives Matter protests across the country and gained traction from peopleās outrage towards inequality, the events that have unfolded should not be blamed on ācancel culture,ā āpolitical correctness run amokā or any other reactionary dismissal of critical thinking. Ā Adam Rapoport didnāt lose his job because Black Lives Matter, Black Lives Matter came to be because of the damage that many in positions of power like Rapoport have done in both mainstream media and society as a whole.
[Also, yes, there are going to be a lot of links to Instagram posts that have been screenshotted and uploaded to Twitter. Ā Clearly the real takeaway from this debacle is that I need to get an Instagram account.Ā Also also, thanks to Tumblrās new rules about offsite links, youāll have to go to my main site for the full receipts.]
Preamble
Shortly after the killing of George Floyd, Adam Rapoport, Editor-in-Chief at Bon Appetit, wrote an editorial highlighting some of the coverage theyāve given to black chefs. Ā Many criticized this as being superficial and performative, with others saying that BA has, on numerous occasions, shut down articles relating to black culture for not being ātrendyā enough or otherwise was discriminatory towards black employees. (Also, the repeated use of āuprisingsā instead of āprotestsā seems a little suspicious.)
An article from Eater criticized the role BA played in the appropriating and whitewashing of many culturesā ingredients and cuisines (gochujang, Aleppo pepper, and sumac seem to be some of BAās favorite ingredients) that had become prevalent in food media in recent years.
While itās a fairly minor offense in comparison, it may also be worth bringing up the time Rapoport accidentally called Priya Krishna āSohla,ā the name of his other Indian employee.
Monday, June 8th
Food writer Tammie Teclemariam posted a screencap of an Instagram post made by Rapoportās wife, which depicted the two of them donning Puerto Rican stereotypes as Halloween costumes, brownface and all. Ā Ā
Many were quick to declare their outrage and demand that Rapoport either resign or be fired. Ā Meanwhile, Sohla El-Waylly, one of the leading stars of the Youtube channel, was one of the first BA employees to speak up, and disclosed that this kind of behavior was just the tip of the iceberg. Ā She said that BIPOC workers have been paid disproportionately for their work, including not being paid a per-video commission that the white stars of the Youtube channel receive.Ā
Molly Baz, one of the aforementioned white stars, announced that she would no longer make videos for BA until all of El-Wayllyās demands were met. Ā One by one, their white coworkers chimed in in agreement. Ā
Former staff photographer Alex Lau also wrote an extensive tweet thread about his experiences at BA, including how he had futilely tried to fix the system from within.
By the end of Monday, Adam Rapoport had resigned from his position as Editor-in-Chief.
Tuesday, June 9thĀ Ā
Since Rapoportās official resignation did little to fix many of the systemic problems in place at BA, many began to turn their attention to other senior members of the staff.
Some came for Andrew Knowlton, the Restaurant Editor, for behaviors such as gaslighting an employee for trying to bring up racist practices in the offices.
Others called out Matthew Duckor, a VP at Conde Nast and BAās former āHead of Videoā (Did a 3 year old come up with that job title?), for a series of old racist and homophobic tweets. Ā He tried to apologize by saying that he was young and didnāt know any better at the time, but many were quick to point out that he was, at the youngest, 20, aka for all intents and purposes An Adult when he wrote those tweets.Ā
Tammie Teclemariam returned to ask current and former BA employees to DM her information about Duckor that they didnāt want to go public with themselves, ranging from his hand in the aforementioned pay disparity to making inappropriate comments towards women.
Teclemariam also did even more social media muckraking and found that Drinks Editor Alex Delany had once decorated a cake to look like a Confederate flag, while others found things like a Vine where he says the f-slur and some questionable comments about women on this Tumblr. Ā He later deleted his Tumblr and Twitter, and issued a cookie-cutter apology on his Instagram.
She also vague-tweeted that Brad Leone, one of the most beloved stars of the Youtube channel, is āpossibly not a great guy,ā but later added, ādonāt fret.ā At that point, some began to accuse her of just trying to stir the pot.
Ultimately, Matt Hunziker, director and camera operator for Leoneās show, reported that the higher ups were ignoring the situation regarding the pay disparity, and that they were not ālearning and growing.ā
Business Insider published an article where they interviewed 14 current and former BIPOC employees of Bon Appetit. Ā In addition to information already discussed above, it also described events such as an incident where several BIPOC staffers were told they werenāt allowed the test kitchen. (Carla Lalli Music, the Food Director at the time, would later defend her stance in the affair on Twitter.) Ā Ryan Walker-Hartshorn, a black woman who served as Rapoportās personal assistant, recalled that she would often spend her day doing menial tasks like polishing her bossās golf clubs or trying to teach his wife how to use Google Calendar. Ā In another incident, Knolton called Rick Martinez a āone trick ponyā for only developing Mexican recipes, which is what he was being forced to do so BA could tout ādiversityā bonus points. Ā Martinez would also say that the magazine under Rapoportās tenure āwent from old and irrelevant and white-washed content to young and trendy white-washed content." (Martinez would also upload a more graphic description of the treatment he received Ā to his Instagram that same day.) Later that day, Business Insider would also report that Duckor had left the company.
Vice would liken Rapoport to Michael Scott from The Office, but noted that that kind of bumbling, endearingly insensitive bad boss archetype isnāt as charming in the real world where real employees are being affected. Ā Parallels were also drawn between the Youtube channel and The Office itself, stating that the āquirky workplaceā facade put on in the videos helped hide the more sinister practices that lurked beneath the surface, and that the notion that they were āone big familyā often pressured BIPOC into doing more than their fair share for the greater good.
Jezebel showed email transcripts where Rapoport argued the semantics of having his costume be called ābrownfaceā when he wasnāt wearing makeup, and had to be explained to, like a child, that the term refers to the racist caricature and not the literal act of putting brown makeup on oneās face. Ā What a douche.
Bon Appetit published an official apology on their site, a whole two days after the controversy began. Ā Many believed that their empty promises of ālearning from their mistakesā were a day late and a dollar short.
Meanwhile, on Twitter, former BA writer Alyse Whitney said that senior editor Andy Baraghani had, on several occasions, used his influence to undermine her efforts. Whether this had to do with racism, sexism, or just Andy being petty is up for debate, but still constitutes as unprofessional behavior to say the least.
Thursday, June 11th
As interest in the story seemed to wane for many in the industry, Claire Saffitz, arguably the face of the Youtube channel, released another statement on her Instagram. Ā She said that her relative silence was due to taking time to find the right words, and that the same-old promises to ālearn and growā that most had been giving felt empty and performative. Unlike many of her white coworkers, she directly apologized for being complicit in the toxic environment Ā and for not using her status to try to leverage even pay for her BIPOC coworkers. Ā
Another BA Youtube personality, Amiel Stanek, also released a statement in response to BAās official press release, where he demanded Conde Nast to stop avoiding action by setting vague timelines for changes or making excuses for not giving BIPOC workers raises like āthe money just isnāt there.ā
Associate editor Christina Chaey also opened up about her experiences with being pushed into more and more videos to ādiversifyā them- all without compensation. Ā
Friday, June 12th
The biggest scandal of the day was that, as Teclemariam predicted, Brad Leone is possibly not a great guy. Ā A leaked screenshot of an Instagram DM showed him making callous, almost Trump-y comments regarding El-Wayllyās demand for better pay. Ā He also allegedly said that if Delany were to be fired (as of that day he had been sent on leave), he would quit.
Saturday, June 13th
The New York Times published an article suggesting that the issues prevalent in BAās management may go all the way to the top of Conde Nast. Ā Highlights include Chief Executive Roger Lynch chastising the whistleblowers within the company for raising their concerns in such a public manner and an account of an incident where he gave his black assistant a guidebook on how to speak āproperā English.
The Sporkful released a special episode of their podcast containing interviews with several current and former BA BIPOC workers. Ā Nikita Richardson divulged that after she was laid off, a story she had already done all the leg work for was picked up and credited to Amanda Shapiro, a white staff writer who is now acting Editor-in-Chief in lieu of Rapoport. Ā Sohla El-Waylly confirmed that the self-congratulatory editorial Rapoport wrote in the wake of George Floydās death was the real beginning of the end, and that the racist photo was just the final straw. Ā She also described a company-wide Zoom meeting held after the photo began to be spread around where Rapoport issued a half-hearted apology, and began talking about how he would āfix the brandā before El-Waylly demanded he resigned. Ā Furthermore, she revealed that after her Instagram posts began circulating rapidly, Duckor had offered her a new contract with increased pay, but she is refusing to sign it until all BIPOC have received similar compensation. Ā She also said that she had a hand in the wishy-washy statement that BA had published on Wednesday, and said that it originally had taken much firmer stances on the issues but their PR office made them tone it down. Ā Also, she commented that Leone, for the most part, just seemed like she āgenuinely think[s] [that he] just found out racism is real.ā Ā Ultimately, she was glad that the story was getting as much coverage as it was, since it made her feel that her voice was finally being heard.
Sunday, June 14th
Baraghani released a statement on Instagram apologizing for his behavior, saying that trying to achieve his personal goals in BAās toxic, competitive environment made him lose sight of solidarity with his fellow BIPOC. Ā
While that may seem like the end of the story for now, itās important to note that, even with the resignation of two executives, nothing has truly been done to fix the systemic problems at hand.
Anya is live and ready to show you everything. Watch her strip, dance, and perform exclusive shows just for you. Interact in real-time and make your fantasies come true.
ā Live Streamingā Interactive Chatā Private Showsā HD Qualityā Free Actions
Free to watch ⢠No registration required ⢠HD streaming
Just a reminder that @bonappetit is cancelled until they a) PAY their BIPOC creators (which apparently they donāt do!!! Props to Sohla El-Waylly for risking her job and speaking out) and b) fire Adam Rapoport.
I am really fucking bummed as @outofcontextbonappetit and the channel in general have helped to me to self-soothe but we gotta walk.
Anya is live and ready to show you everything. Watch her strip, dance, and perform exclusive shows just for you. Interact in real-time and make your fantasies come true.
ā Live Streamingā Interactive Chatā Private Showsā HD Qualityā Free Actions
Free to watch ⢠No registration required ⢠HD streaming
Ok you know how usually Brad jumps in when Clair says she's done and he's like "meh you still need to work on it". I think with Jelly Belly he thought (or was told) to just go there and say "wow, you're done!" to anything that that vaguely looked like a finished product. And he just went for it, to be positive and and supporting. The one time he shouldn't have.