#cheonggye

3 mayo 2017

“When we put ourselves down in a foreign place for a period of time, we begin to change, like it or not. We begin to see how the people who live there were shaped by the place, even as we feel ourselves being shaped.” - Frances Mayes, Guest editor, American Travel Writing 2002

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Soothing is the tone that made up the calming melody of Cheonggyecheon Stream as we simmer down by the concrete steps along the banks while we listen to its afternoon performance. 

Like the heritage houses of Bukchon Hanok Village, Cheonggyecheon Stream has a rich history that dates back from the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). As a historical landmark, the stream is no exemption from a turbulent past of Seoul. Once neglected, buried under a highway and left to dry for almost 40 years, Cheonggyecheon Stream, like an old melody rearranged by a master musician, has been restored and revitalized since 2005 to what it is today.

Above, Cheonggyecheon Stream after Ogansugyo Bridge

Cheonggyecheon Stream is 8.4 kilometers (5.2 miles) waterway right smack in the middle of bustling Seoul and has 23 bridges, both old and new within. There is a museum and other sights and attractions, such as the Wall of Hope, The Wall of Culture, Spring Tower, Candle Fountain, and Historic Laundry Site to name a few. Tourist can visit the stream anytime of the day and it is open to public 24 hours a day unless for scheduled maintenance and other social activities. Our walking tour of the stream started off at the Beodeuldari Bridge and all the way up to the starting point, the Cheonggye Plaza in downtown Seoul.  

Above, The Wall of Culture and Ogansugyo Bridge from afar

Located in between Beodeuldari Bridge and Ogansugyo Bridge is The Wall of Culture, one of the popular sights in the section of the stream. The wall depicts the history of the stream during the Joseon Dynasty through tile paintings like those of Egyptian hieroglyphs. The paintings on the wall tell the story of kings and other royal envoys who regularly took the path of Cheonggyecheon Stream to travel across the country.

Top, Gwanggyo Bridge from afar. Above, stone crossing

Above, underneath Gwanggyo Bridge

Above, Gwangtonggyo Bridge

According to history, Gwangtonggyo Bridge is one of the oldest and most important bridges in Cheonggyecheon Stream during the Joseon Dynasty. It was also the busiest during those times when it was used as a marketplace. The original bridge was built in wood and soil and was destroyed by massive floods.

Top, Mojeongyo Bridge from afar. Above, underneath Mojeongyo Bridge

Like the Gwangtonggyo Bridge, Mojeongyo Bridge was once a marketplace for sweet-scented fruits.

Above, Cheonggye Plaza and Gwanghwamun Square atop Mojeongyo Bridge

At the end of our walking tour of Cheonggyecheon Stream, we reached Cheonggye Plaza, which is also the beginning or head of the stream located in the heart of bustling Seoul. Similar to Beijing’s Tiananmen Square, Seoul shares same historical highlights with its Gwanghwamun Square, located in Cheonggye Plaza. The square commemorates the restoration of the Cheonggyecheon Stream that started in 2003 by removing the elevated highway that covers the stream. 

Above, Saebyeokdari Bridge (Dawn Bridge) from afar

The Cheonggyecheon Stream restoration project seems too overwhelming at that time and has received both support and criticism. The government and its citizens were even divided into half for its ambitious "urban renewal" plan in making it as public recreation space. But after all the discussions, the project pushed through and making the Cheonggyecheon Stream as one of the most successful restoration projects to date in Seoul.

# Seoul Lantern Festival on Cheonggyecheon Stream