#chasingcorners

Labuan Bajo, Indonesia

Accommodation: Komodo Lodge and one night on a boat (via Komodo Blessings Office)

Duration: 4 days

After returning to Kuta/Legian from Gili T, we had no plan whatsoever. Indonesia is daunting, the size is overwhelming and the diversity from island to island is drastic. Some say that Indonesia is like 12 countries in one. We could have easily spent three months in the country.

Before arriving to Indonesia, I had some interest in visiting the more remote islands in the southeast. I had a hunch that getting down to an island as southeast as Papua would be way above our budget level. My assumption was right, but I didn’t want that to stop us from venturing away from central Indonesia.

While on Gili T, we heard about a four day boat trip to Komodo Island (to see the dragons). On the way, the boat supposedly stopped on a few other islands and included some stunning snorkeling spots. After reading some stories online, we learned that the boat situation was miserable and that almost the entire journey is spent moving. The trip was fairly expensive as well.

While we didn’t want to take this four day boat journey, the idea of traveling to the exotic Komodo Island and swimming in some of the best snorkeling spots in Southeast Asia was extremely enticing. With that in mind, we started scanning the internet for cheap tickets. We were unsuccessful in purchasing a domestic flight online (card was declined on a sketchy Indonesian aggregator) so we had to do it the old fashioned way, go to the airport and buy them in person.

Indonesian airlines are some of the worst in the world; they make up 30 of the 50 worst airlines in the world. Their safety standards are low, the pilots are forced into situations based on capital rather than safety, and they have been known to use low quality recycled parts for repairs. While we’ve been on our fair share of sketchy overnight busses, flying was not something that we were willing to compromise with. We decided to buy our tickets from Garuda Air, the only airline in Indonesia permitted to fly in European airspace. The price for peace of mind was $40 extra dollars ($80 for each ticket). Though, on the way back we ended up flying with the sketchy airline anyway (Lion Air)...and then flew with them again from Kuta to Yogyakarta (and we’re still alive!). A low price tag can do strange things to your judgement. To give you an idea of the safety statistics, here is a simple comparison: on an American airline the chance of dying is one in a twenty five million people while on a low budget Indonesian airline the chances are one in a million people…not too bad.

Our flight landed us in Labuan Bajo, a small town on the northwest corner of Flores. This area is still on the fringe of the backpacker/tourist radar (mostly due to its remoteness), though it is expected to blow up in the next decade or so. The town is pleasant enough, nothing to write home about. There is very little to see or do, but the locals are really friendly and there are some fun and cheap food options...plus, the sunsets are epic. The main street has dozens of small tourist offices (way over saturated considering the low number of tourists) trying to sell a range of different packages, most including Komodo Island but also a wide selection of diving trips (this part of Indonesia is one of the best diving areas in the world). Almost all of these agencies are third party and end up sending their clients on trips combined with other agencies. That being said, each office has very different pricing, so ask around and try to find the cheapest option, it does not mean that you are getting worse quality.

At first we considered doing one or two single day trips, but quickly realized that an overnight boat was the best option. It was the most cost effective and efficient option, plus sleeping under the stars on the roof of the boat was one of my most memorable experiences in Southeast Asia.

We ended up paying 850k IPR ($65 USD) each for a two day one night trip with all meals included. We purchased the trip through a tiny rundown office called Komodo Blessings. This is definitely one of, if not, the cheapest option in town.

On the morning of our departure we woke up early and walked to the office. The guy working the desk grabbed our snorkeling gear and walked us to the port. At the port we met our four shipmates for the following two days. The boat was an old push boat, with a seating area in the front and a very small cabin with four beds. The bathroom was a closet with a toilet and no running water. It was as basic as it gets, but the views were all we really needed.

The itinerary took us to all the best spots around the Komodo Archipelago. All the while, we enjoyed delicious food (cooked on board), terrific conversation, and stunning views from the roof and bow of the boat.

Here is a list of all the spots we hit up on our two day journey:

Rinca Island

Rinca is one of four islands where it is possible to see komodo dragons. Chances to spot these monsters are actually higher on Rinca than on Komodo Island. We approached the dock to a sign warning visitors of crocodiles in the water. Monkeys were loitering around the entrance. It was wild. We paid a steep entrance fee (valid for both Rinca and Komodo Island), and got assigned our mandatory guide.

We immediately spotted a baby komodo in a tree, it was the size of regular lizard (a few inches long), a funny introduction to the largest lizard in the world. The guide explained that the babies live in trees until they reach a certain size to avoid being eaten by larger komodos. We made our way towards the kitchen area (for staff and reporters/photographers/videographers on assignment). Next to the kitchen there were eight enormous dragons just hanging out. The guide said that they are attracted to the smell and emphasized that they do not feed them but, there are rumors that they do in order to draw them in for tourists. I was a little let down that our first glimpse of the komodo dragon was not in the “wild”. Either way they were intimidating and impressive. It was surreal to see them in person. We were warned to keep our distance as they have attacked tourists (and guides) in the past. Each guide had a large stick with two prongs on the end, to control the dragon by the neck or tail. Based on the guides’ body language it seemed that komodos are pretty unpredictable.

We continued on through the forest where we spotted a young dragon, somewhere in between the baby and the full size dragon. The guide then pointed out some of their nests hidden in the bushes. He warned us that chances of seeing the dragons on the remainder of the hike were slim to none as we left the wooded area and made our way up the exposed hills. He was right, but the rest of the hike was beautiful. He told us that we should have come in the morning and that he didn't understand why the tours timed trips the way they did.

Komodo Island

After an extremely long boat ride and a short snorkeling session we made it to Komodo Island just half an hour before closing. I was pretty pissed that we didn’t have more time. It turned out successful nonetheless. We spotted two enormous dragons hiding in the bushes, the guide was even shocked. He spent some time feeding us facts as we gawked over the beasts and explained that these two komodos had just eaten that morning. They were extremely comatose and, based on the noises they were making, seemed to have some deer bones stuck in their throat. As we made our way back towards the beach, we finally spotted a komodo in action, aka, walking. It was exciting to actually see the way that the lizards waddle. Overall, it was a short but successful visit.

There were also dozens of wild boar and deer casually walking around, easy hunting for the massive lizards.

Komodo Facts:

On average male komodos measure 8.5 feet and weigh around 190 pounds, while females average 7.5 feet and weigh around 155 pounds.

They only live on four islands in the entire world, all located in Indonesia.

Baby komodos spend the first few years of their lives in trees to avoid predators, including larger komodos.

They reach maturity in 8 to 9 years and can live until 30.

Komodos are cannibals.

Their saliva has bacteria in it that allows them to kill their prey. They hunt down and bite their prey then stalk them for a few days until they slowly die.

Komodos are solitary creatures; however, after a single dragon kills its prey, many komodos will come and share the feast.

They are most active in the morning, afterwards they just chill in the shade.

Manta Point

The Komodo Archipelago is famous for its marine life. The diversity is vast, and among that diversity lives the gentlest of giants, the Mantaray. I didn't really know what to expect, but whatever I did expect was destroyed by reality.

Manta Point is an unassuming spot in the middle of a large cove surrounded by a few uninhabited islands. The captain warned us that the current was extremely strong and that if we want to go into the water, we all need to jump in together so that the boat could come scoop us as a group. We saw some splashing from the boat (manta rays) and all jumped in. The boat shrunk in the distance as we got swept away.

Within minutes, my mind was blown. We spotted a group of four manta rays swimming below us, against the current. They were ENORMOUS! I had no idea. It really took me back for a second. The rays were far bigger than me (6’2’’); they were almost double my size both in height and width. Their bodies soared through the water like birds, their “wings” had a hypnotizing flow. At their front, they have a white grate-like mouth that allows them to pull in large amounts of water in order to maximize their plankton intake. In the back, they have an intimidatingly long and pointed stinger. We were told that they are absolutely harmless.

The next few mantas that we saw were closer to the surface. It was a more intimate experience and gave us a chance to see their features closeup. It was stunning.

Flying Foxes

The flying foxes (pteropus) are the largest bats on the planet. They live up to their name, resembling little flying dogs. While in Batambang, Cambodia we witnesses 1.8 million tiny bats leaving their cave during their daily hunt for food. This experience was similar, save the size and quantity of the bats. Instead of a cave, the flying foxes live in a small mangrove forest. The sun set behind the island hills as the glow from behind the horizon turned the soaring colony of bats into a beautiful silhouette of black wings.

We learned that this spot was where we would spend the night. After a surprisingly delicious dinner, we made our way to the roof to set up our beds. I was really pumped to sleep under the night sky, floating in the water, away from any light pollution. Not much gets me more excited than a sky full of stars. I popped in my headphones, threw on some Moby, and got lost in my thoughts under the Milky Way.

Kanaka Island

Kanaka island is ranked as one of the best places in Southeast Asia for snorkeling. With that kind of hype, I had high expectations. As the boat approached the island, we could immediately see how Kanaka got its reputation. The water was perfectly clear and blue. It was shallow and covered in active reef.

We jumped in the water and swam towards the beach. On the way we got an introduction the underwater scene. There were thousands of colorful fish swimming among the infinite and diverse coral. It was like swimming in a fish tank. Visibility was the best we’d ever seen. The experience was a great way to close out our two day wildlife adventure.

*You can stay on the island in a basic bungalow. The prices were a little steep for our budget, but nothing crazy.

The wildlife didn't stop once we were back on the mainland. In our room at Komodo Lodge we got up close and personal with an intrusion of cockroaches. After seeing two big guys emerge from the sink, we sprayed every opening with the provided roach poison. It seemed like the right decision until a dozen or so more roaches erupted from the various drains and into our room, escaping a certain death. I spent the better part of the evening with a boot in my hand, crushing the bright futures of these pests.

Restaurants in Labuan Bajo

Blue Corner

This is a simple and extremely cheap local restaurant in the middle of the main street. They have a few tables and whip up some flavorful dishes on their one burner, gas stove. They had some of the best fried rice we’ve had on our entire trip through Southeast Asia.

Warung Mama

Warung means a small family shop, the word is typically used for restaurants across Indonesia. This spot had the traditional Indonesian spread of pre-made food. Like most Indonesian restaurants, you get a large plate with rice in the middle, then pay per portion of vegetables, fish, meat, tofu, tempeh, etc. There are always plenty of options. Warung Mama was fresh and reasonably priced.

Grilled seafood at the night market

Mandalay, Myanmar

Accommodation: Hotel 8

Duration: 3 days

The journey to get from Bagan to Mandalay was straightforward and uneventful. We were picked up by a tuk tuk in the morning and then brought to the bus. The bus ride lasted 6 hours and dropped us off right at our hotel. On the bus we met an American couple named Lee and Nico, recent graduates from MIT. We ended up running into them later in the day and decided to wander the city together.

The city itself is gritty and chaotic. One of our first observations was how hardworking everyone was. Like a well rehearsed circus routine, the city chugged along, each person fulfilling their duties. Like many other cities in Southeast Asia, the traffic patterns in Mandalay have no rhyme or reason; many intersections don’t even have a traffic light (or stop sign), drivers seem to simply read each other’s minds and hope for the best. Walking also proved to be a crapshoot. There are no consistent sidewalks, and where there are, they are used as parking. The heat and obstacles make for a fairly frustrating stroll around town…but that’s part of the fun. The locals were shy and curious, but very nice to say the least. A smile and wave became commonplace. Food options were limited, but we found a few decent spots (Shaan Mama is a decent local restaurant, with a fair share of vegetarian options).

The people of Mandalay work hard. It was one of the first things we noticed. The entire city grinds all day. Little girls were busy chopping wood, women were cooking while the men loaded trucks and erected buildings in the ever expanding city. The heat seemingly had no effect on productivity…we could barely walk.

Top things to do in Mandalay

King Galon Gold Leafing Workshop

Hidden along a few side streets are a handful of artisanal workshops where visitors can watch and learn about various crafts. We found a famous gold leafing workshop towards the very end of the day. There wasn’t much happening when we arrived, but we did get a mini tour of the workshop and watched as women meticulously placed delicate pieces of gold leaf into packages. Unfortunately, the real action had finished for the day. Typically, there is a group of men smashing away at the gold with enormous mallots in order to get it as thin as possible. The gold leaf is used by locals to decorate places of worship.

See a movie (it’s surprisingly a fun cultural experience)

Since it was a rainy day, the four of us decided to see a movie (The Jungle Book) at the local cinema. The cinema was located in a fairly new mall, however the mall itself seemed like a failed project. The building was barren, only a handful of shops and cafes were open while dozens of spaces were left vacant.

At home, going to see a movie is usually a relaxing experience. However in Myanmar, the experience is a bit different. When we arrived, the theater was fully packed. As the movie progressed, we kept hearing strangely loud crunching sounds. It wasn’t popcorn but we couldn’t figure out what everyone was eating (if you watch HIMYM, it’s like that scene where Lily is accused of being a loud chewer). It sounded like people were chewing on sticks and rocks all around us! Throughout the movie people were chatting and talking on the phone. There was constant chatter during the entire film. No one seemed to mind, likely because the movie was in English and without subtitles. At first it was a bit distracting but eventually we became accustomed to it…not really, but we accepted it. When the movie ended, the lights turned on and revealed a shocking answer to our question. The entire theater was covered with chewed up sunflower seeds. They were all over the chairs and floor…it was pretty nasty. Mystery solved!

U-Bien Bridge

The U-bien bridge is a glorious structure. The delicate bridge was built in 1850 and is the longest teakwood bridge in the world. The bridge spans over the Taung Tha Man Lake. We arrived around 4:45pm via taxi to ensure that we could catch the sunset. We made our way across the bridge and watched as monks did the same. The bridge is a popular gathering spot for locals and monks especially in the evening due to it’s calming location, serene views, and nearby temples. We walked halfway across and found a small shack with some tables and chairs set up below the bridge (on a grassy patch) facing the lake. As the sun set, we sipped on beers and snacked on peel and eat shrimp.

As we headed back towards our taxi, the sky turned ominous and gloomy. We jumped into the car. A few minutes later, huge pieces of hail started falling from the sky. The hail was the size of golfballs, I’ve never seen anything like it. Our driver started to slow down and eventually he came to a full stop to avoid further damage to his car. The three of us sat in the car in amazement as the storm swept through the area (our driver was holding onto the windshield in case it shattered). Many people were driving motorbikes, so of course they all had to pull over as well. People were running around on the street in search of shelter. After 10 minutes, the storm passed and we eventually made it back to our hotel.

We later learned that the hail storm, sadly, resulted in a few human and animal casualties in the rural areas outside the city, crazy!

Blackouts are very common in Mandalay. We experienced quite a few during our stay. Luckily our hotel had a powerful generator that would usually turn the power back on after a few minutes. After the hail storm, many local businesses lost power and the streets were flooded. In an effort to find a place for dinner we ventured through the dark neighborhood and waded through the flooded streets. The flooding was really bad in certain spots (1 foot deep) due to the poor drainage systems. Eventually we found a place that had electricity.