Bearded dragons are diurnal, active during the day, lizards of the Agama family. These lizards are native to the arid regions of central and eastern Australia. Bearded dogs get their name from the small pouch on their throat that can turn black and expand, like a beard. These wonderful lizards were introduced to the American pet market in the mid-1990s and have grown in popularity ever since. Bearded dragons are known for their general aggressiveness, general stubbornness, curiosity, and personality. They are also known to get to know their owners and have strong relationships. Due to their popularity, all bearded dragons sold outside of Australia are now bred in captivity.
Housing
Bearded dragons can grow up to 24 inches in length and will need shelter to match their size. A young bearded dragon can live comfortably in a 36" by 18" enclosure. Adults will need a cover at least 48" x 24". As with all reptiles, bigger is better when it comes to camouflage.
Although bearded dragons are terrestrial or terrestrial species, they are excellent climbers and scavengers. Adding a sturdy and safe climbing frame, such as natural wood, is highly recommended.
There are many seed options for bearded dragons. These options can range from fabric to porcelain tiles to a mixture of organic soil and sand. The choice to use profanity continues to be a hotly debated issue. Crushed walnut shells are one of the nuts we advise against, some people swear by it but for us it's not worth the risk.
Heating,Lighting, & Humidity
In the habitat of the bearded dragon, there is an abundance of sunlight and warmth. Bearded dragons can often be found basking in the sun.
Having a strong UVB light like Reptisun 10.0 is essential for bearded dragons. Strong UVB light will help your dragon absorb calcium, regulate hormones, regulate metabolism, and improve mood.
Many lizards, including bearded dragons, have what are called parietal eyes. This eye is located on the top of their head and is part of the pineal system. These eyes are photosensitive and help the bearded dragon regulate its circadian rhythms with hormones such as melatonin. With many bright lights, the dragons were colored like heat. The enclosure requires a temperature gradient from 75-80°F on the cooler side to 95-100°F. The temperature should be around 105-110°F.
Being from a natural environment of semiarid lands bearded dragons should not have much humidity in their enclosures. The enclosure should register a humidity of only 20-30%.
Feeding
Bearded dragons are omnivores, meaning they eat both plants and animals. The diet ratios for Bearded dragons will change as they grow.
A hatchling bearded dragon needs roughly 80% animal protein and 20% plant matter.
Juveniles will need roughly 50% animal protein and 50% plant matter.
Adults will need roughly 20% animal protein and 80% plant matter.
Dubia crickets and cockroaches are good snacks. You usually want to eat as much food as your dragon can eat in 5-10 minutes. You should have a shallow water bowl with fresh water for your bearded dragon. Contrary to popular belief, keeping a bowl of shallow water in your garden will not increase humidity and cause problems.
Health
Dogs with beards are usually a tough breed. There are a few common issues that are seen, but these are usually caused by improper care and breeding. Obesity is one of the most common problems. Reptiles have generally evolved to not need food every day. Skipping feeding days is always very beneficial for your bearded dragon.
Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) is unfortunately another common problem seen in bearded dragons. The cause of metabolic bone disease is a lack of calcium and vitamin D3 which is associated with a lack of UVB light. A lack of calcium in a dragon's system causes their bodies to remove calcium from their bones, which creates weak and brittle bones and often leads to physical deformities. These deformities can cause the body to experience pain and discomfort because it cannot move as it should.
If you think your pet is sick or has any health problems, it is always best to seek veterinary care from a professional veterinarian so that ability to diagnose and treat.
Summary
Bearded dragons are wonderful animals! Their easy care, overall strength, untrained behavior, and many qualities make them easily among the most popular pets. With proper care, your bearded dragon can provide many years of enjoyment and companionship.
As with always, Scales & Tails Exotic Pets is here for you for all of your online reptile accessory and supply needs. If you have any questions at all please use the "Contact Us" form on our website and we will get back to you as soon as possible!
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The Fed Up Caresheet: Tenebrio Molitor, the Mealworm Beetle.
I'm tired of seeing people asking the same questions over and over about care, breeding and use of these guys in bioactive enclosures, so I've come up with my own care sheet for them. I've bred and sold these guys for years and tried just about everything anyone has ever suggested, so here's what's worked best for me.
Habitat/setup:
Use a flat container. The more space they have to get away from each other the better. Shoeboxes work well for up to 200. Make sure there is a ton of ventilation. I cut holes in the top and use screen or just leave em open, since the beetles can't climb smooth surfaces. They need very dry conditions, detailed later.
Decide what meal to use. There's a lot of options here, but the finer the better. I find that mixing meals works far better at producing healthy, fast growing mealworms than using just one. I use a blend, in order of greatest to least quantity, of cornmeal, ground up oatmeal, and finely ground bran cereal like grapenuts or bran flakes. You can also use unbleached oat flour, but you MUST follow the caveat below:
Disinfect your substrate. The most important thing you can do is to bake your meal/grain products first, at 200 F for at least 20 minutes. I usually bake it for two hours just to be safe. This kills mold spores and mite, weevil and flour beetle eggs that will ruin your brood and possibly kill off your colony. I can not tell you the number of times I had to give up on a breeding colony because of mold or mite infestations. The FDA allows a certain percentage of these things in human foodstuffs, so there is no way to get away from them.
Keep a hydrometer in the container and monitor the humidity- KEEP THEM DRY. These beetles are native to the dry, sandy parts of Europe, Africa and the Middle East, though they've become pests all over the world. They thrive at humidity levels between 20%-50% and do not do well at humidity levels above 65%. T. Molitor has the ability to absorb water from the air, and are experts at getting water from their food. Signs the humidity is too high include dead, dark and squishy worms, bad molts and missing wing converts in adults, and pupae that turn brown and melty.
Food - what they like, what is good for them, and what is not.
There is this strange myth out there that because they can get water from the air, and eat what they live in, that you never have to feed these guys. But that couldn't be more false.
Remember, don't give them more food than they can eat in 48 hours, and remove any and all uneaten food after that, no matter if it's been boiled or blanched.
Food they like/is good for them:
Mushrooms. They love them, especially the beetles. Any mushroom you can eat, they can eat. (Don't pick wild mushrooms. Just don't.)
Blanched or boiled dark green veggies. Mealworms and the beetles have very small mouths and like soft, moist food. Blanching is merely dipping your greens in boiling or near boiling water (140F plus) for 20-30 seconds to kill off bacteria and fungi, which means you arent introducing those things to your grain meal, which means you shouldnt have as many problems with mold. Veggies that fall into this category include kale, spinach (a fan favorite of mine), broccoli, collards, cacti, cabbage and Kolrhabi. Basically all those things your reptile isn't supposed to eat. They love it and they neutralize the oxalic acid in them, so it's a fantastic thing to gut load them with.
Potatoes. This one is iffy for them in my experience. They like sweet potato in particular and regular potato is ok for them, and it's often used as a staple for them. However they are prone to going moldy very fast if not observed carefully. Remember, tiny mouths, so the thinner the slices the better.
Squash. OMG they can not get enough of it. Any kind of squash, from zucchini to pumpkin. Rich in sugars, vitamin A, and tons of trace minerals, its also an excellent gut load. Blanching is up to you on this one, but keep quantities small since the tough fibers take a while for tiny jaws to get through. Exception for cooked squash, which they love, but should only be a treat
Moving away from the veggies, they do enjoy a little protein now and then, so small bits of cooked meat like fish and chicken are appreciated. Alternatively they can be fed fish food, dog food, or even just a commercial reptile diet (like you would use for your own) containing at least 10% protein. I would use a separate dish or bit if paper towel to feed these so as not to contaminate the substrate.
Food they love which is not good for them/to be used as treats:
Fruit. They love the stuff, but it's not always the best thing to feed them since most fruit ferments or molds very quickly in their carb-rich environment. Super sugary fruits are also poor in trace nutrients and aren't the best for gut loading. Some fruit is actively harmful for them, too, like pommegranite, pineapple, gooseberry and cranberry.
Flowers. Again, they like to eat them but they're really not nutritious.
Food they dont like, won't eat and which is not good for them:
Citrus. They hate the stuff and it's toxic to them. Nonetheless they will eat it if nothing else is present.
Cranberries, gooseberries, wine grapes, pommegranite and pineapple: these all are toxic to T. Molitor and any other scrarab beetle. The antioxidants destroy the bacteria in their gut, so the theory goes (except pineapple, which is toxic to insects of all types due to enzymes that break down protein in their mouths and guts) rendering them weak and feeble from malnutrition. Thankfully they usually dont like these anyway.
Anything with high amounts of iodine such as shellfish and seaweed. Commercial diets made with these things are usually fine if not fed in excess, but too much will cause fatal poisoning or render the adults sterile.
FAQ:
1. Can I use T. Molitor in my bioactive setup?
A: yes, and no. It depends on the animal. In general these guys need much drier conditions than a fully bioactive setup calls for. Unlike their cousin, Zophobas Morio (common superworm) however, they are strict herbivores/detritivores and only like soft, dead things, so they won't eat your pet alive. They are also less noxious, so no worries if your pet eats one on occasion. They work best in semi arid to arid setups like those for bearded dragons, leopard geckos, savannah and ackie monitors, and knob tailed geckos.
2. Can I house T. Molitor and Z. Morio together?
A: Short answer, no. Long answer, yes, with sacrifices. Adult beetles get along fine, since they have hard exoskeletons and can't really hurt each other. However the hungry and powerful jaws of Morio beetles and their larva will make short work of a Mealworm or freshly molted pupa. Also, their humidity requirements are different, and so it's difficult to keep them together comfortably. One's extreme high is the other's extreme low, so to keep them together without causing suffering to either one is a very fine edge that's nearly impossible to balance on forever.
3. Why do my beetles keep coming out with deformed wings and bodies?
A: usually this is a humidity issue. When humidity is too high, the elatrae (wing covers) can't harden properly. It can also be caused by overcrowding. These beetles like each other's company, but males are very aggressive and pushy with both each other and females and can really beat up a freshly molted adult if they feel there's too much competition for space. which leads to the third, completely random cause, which is having too many males. Nearly all scarab beetle males are aggressive competitors, with perhaps the exception of Carrion and buffalo beetles, so too many males can cause stress on the whole colony. The good news is that these beetles are super hardy and don't really seem affected by their deformations. Malnutrition is a factor of consideration as well. Too little protein makes their elatrea weak and brittle.
4. Do my beetles ever molt once they become adults?
A: No. In fact one of the defining characteristics of beetles as an order of insects is that they never molt once they leave their larval stage. It takes more resources to rebuild their tough exoskeleton than they could eat in their brief lifetimes.
5. How long will the adults live for?
A: T. Molitor is a relatively long lived beetle as an adult, living up to a year and a half, though males often live longer than females. They are fertile right out of the pupae and can reproduce until the day they die.
6. Do I need to worry about allergies?
A: unless you are allergic to grains, then generally no. Allergies to the frass (poop) are very rare given that they are very hard and often mixed into the bedding. That said I have anecdotally heard of one person having a skin allergy to the frass, and the oil the beetles secrete in self defense can be irritating to sensitive skin, so I dont advise handling them.
If you have any questions or want to add something, PM me or comment below.
I want to watch the pretty fishes. I’ve been playing with walmart/dollar store aquarium stuff and sea monkeys for a while (I started before the fire and we’re settled enough now for me to have my monkeys and moss balls going again) as a kind of practice test to see if I could take care of a proper aquarium with real fish.
It has been decided that I can and I’m allowed to start putting my Proper Aquarium™ together. I’ve chosen Tetras as the species I want to at least start with since they’re apparently a good beginner fish and get along well with other species in community tanks.
The problem I am having is pretty simple. Before I even think about going shopping for fish I want to do my research to make sure I have the right supplies and I’m not getting bad brands of things and all that stuff, but when I try to find care sheets I get inundated with Aquarium Brand Names trying to convince me to buy their products and only theirs and not a lot of actual information that would be useful outside of being a rabid ride or die fan of Tetra Supplies ACME Brand Incorporated.
My question is this:
Do you have any links for forums or care sheets that you personally as a tetra keeper with a bit of experience would recommend to a complete beginner?
Here is the care sheet I made for sugar gliders. It has info about the diet that I do for Pip along with sources for further reading. This is NOT a replacement for veterinary care! Also keep in mind that husbandry changes quickly and this information will likely change over the next few years.
Natural History
Sugar gliders (Petaurus breviceps) are small marsupials native to Australia, New Guinea, Tasmania, and a few islands and regions around Indonesia. They are complex and unique animals, with very specific dietary requirements. We don’t fully understand the diet of wild sugar gliders, but we know that they are omnivorous and consume a variety of foods including gums, saps, nectar, pollen, animal proteins, seeds, eggs, fungi, and native fruits. The “sugar” in sugar glider is named as such due to their consumption of sugary foods such as sap and nectar. They are considered “Least Concern” by the IUCN. Sugar gliders possess the ability to glide short distances, thanks to a gliding membrane extending from their forearms to their hind legs. While their appearance is similar to the North American flying squirrel, these species are not related.
Characteristics and Behavior
Cute and charismatic, sugar gliders are popular in the pet trade. However, they have very complicated care needs and are not usually a “cuddly” pet. Sugar gliders require a large amount of space and enrichment to be happy. They are social to the point that singular gliders may mutilate themselves from stress. Wild gliders live in groups of about 5-12 individuals. While some sugar gliders will tame down and enjoy human companionship it takes patience and effort. They often enjoy curling up in your pocket or other dark spaces.
Wild sugar gliders have a very complex diet, which can be difficult to replicate in captivity. They are also arboreal, and need plenty of space to climb, with plenty of options for enrichment. Gliders kept alone need daily interaction from their human companions, ideally at night when they are active. Given their complicated care needs, sugar gliders should not be considered beginner pets.
Lifespan
8-13 years.
Adult Size
80-160g with males larger than females.
Housing
Sugar gliders need space, particularly vertical space as they are naturally arboreal (tree dwelling). At a minimum, 1-2 gliders can be kept in a 36’’x24’’40’’ (LxWxH) enclosure, but larger is better. If more than 2 gliders are kept, a larger enclosure is a must to give each animal their own space. Space between bars should be no more than ¼ inch to prevent escape. Secure areas such as sleeping pouches and nest boxes should be provided, with at least 1 per glider. Additionally, branches, bird toys, solid wheels, shelves, swings, and other toys should be provided for enrichment and security. Nest boxes should be placed near the top of the cage, as this is where gliders are most comfortable. Sugar gliders also enjoy chewing on wood, so natural branches can be provided as long as they are baked to destroy any pathogens. Paper towels, hay, or aspen can be used at the bottom of the cage for substrate but avoid cedar or pine as these can irritate a glider’s respiratory system. Cages should be set up in an area that is draft-free and won’t disturb their daytime rest. Covering cages during the day can help minimize disturbances.
Feeding
Wild sugar glider diets are diverse and complex, even varying seasonally. We don’t fully understand their diets in the wild, which makes them difficult to feed properly in captivity. Dietary variety is extremely important for preventing malnutrition in this species. The subject of what to feed a sugar glider is controversial, but generally includes a combination of commercial pellets, insects, other proteins, fresh fruits and veggies, and homemade glider food. Food dishes should be placed up high in the enclosure. Gliders in summer tend to consume more insects, while gliders in winter tend to consume more gums, saps, and nectars when insects are more scarce.
One popular diet is the High-Protein Wombaroo (HPW) diet which is available premade or can be made at home:
Ingredients:
2 Cups Warm Water
1.5 Cups Honey
3 Scrambled Eggs
1/4 Cup High Protein Wombaroo Powder (Increase to 1/2 cup for pregnant/lactating females.)--this product can be found online
1 Tablespoon Bee Pollen
Recipe:
Cook eggs and set aside (stovetop or microwave is acceptable)
In a large bowl, mix water and honey. Stir honey until dissolved. Add in the HPW powder and mix well
Pour into a freezer safe bowl with an airtight lid. It should freeze to ice cream consistency.
Nightly Feeding(per glider):
1.5 Teaspoon of Original HPW
1 Tablespoon of mixed Fruit
1 Tablespoon of mixed Vegetables
Acceptable produce for a glider includes melon, jicama, papaya, strawberries, bell peppers, squash, carrots, sweet potatoes, figs, cabbage, cucumbers, artichokes, beats, turnips and turnip greens, endive, okra, parsley, radish, bananas, celery, green beans, bok choy, oranges, snap peas, mangoes, blueberries, peaches, and kiwi. Avoid grapes, onions, garlic, pits, and seeds.
For enrichment and variety, other foods should be supplemented occasionally including commercial glider food (i.e. Mazuri, Exotic Nutrition), earthworms, nectar, pollen, acacia gum, crickets, roaches, mealworms, and other insects. Avoid wax worms as these are very fatty. All insects should be gutloaded (fed a nutritious meal prior to feeding to your pet) and dusted with a calcium carbonate powder (no phosphorus) and a multivitamin powder with vitamin A. These are available in the reptile section of your local pet store, or online as glider specific supplements. Be careful not to overfeed fruits and other sugary foods! Gliders are prone to obesity and dental disease and will actively choose sugary foods over healthier foods. Small amounts (no more than 5% of your glider’s diet) of treats including flavored yogurt, no sugar-added dried fruit, and applesauce can be offered occasionally. Dog food, cat food, seeds, nuts, and cheese are not recommended for gliders.
Other popular diets include 50% of a homemade diet and 50% of a commercial insectivore diet, or 75% commercial insectivore diet and 25% fruits and veggies with a calcium and vitamin supplement. There are many other home prepared diet options such as Leadbeater’s, Bourbon’s Modified Leadbeater’s, Australian captive diet, and others, but none have been studied to evaluate suitability in sugar gliders. This author chooses to feed HPW with fruits and vegetables daily, and supplemental glider kibble, insects and other animal protein sources, nectar, gum, and pollen.
It is important to maintain a Ca:P ratio of 2:1 in sugar gliders. Calcium and phosphorus work as opposites in the body, which is why supplements or foods high in phosphorus should be avoided. Sugar gliders are very prone to metabolic bone disease from improper calcium absorption, which can lead to decreased bone density, seizures, and fractures. While most fruits and veggies are ok in moderation, an effort should be made to not overdo produce that has a lower Ca:P ratio (i.e. higher phosphorus). This includes, banana, squash, peaches, carrots, pumpkin, sweet potato, cantaloupe, and blueberries. Conversely, raspberries, blackberries, papaya, turnip greens, parsley, and endive all have higher Ca:P ratios that are more ideal for regular consumption.
Water
Fresh water should always be available. Filtered water or bottled water is recommended.
Sexing
Both male and female sugar gliders have a cloaca, which is a common opening for the reproductive, urinary, and gastrointestinal tracts. Male sugar gliders have a very apparent scrotum (often called a “pom”), along with a scent gland on top of their head that looks like a bald spot. Like other marsupials, females have a pouch for carrying young.
Handling
Sugar gliders are best handled at night when they are naturally awake and active. They should be handled gently and consistently from a young age to acclimate them to people. Sugar gliders may climb on your head or into pockets/sleeves. They can bite when threatened, but tend to vocalize first. Desensitization to handling should be done gradually, and a glider should not be forced into interaction. If a glider needs to be handled in an emergency, garden gloves may be necessary to protect your hands from bites. Bonding sacks can help your glider become accustomed to your scent.
Grooming
Sugar gliders will need their nails trimmed 1-2x per month. Bathing sugar gliders is not recommended.
Enrichment
Bored sugar gliders may pull out their hair or even mutilate themselves, so providing mental and physical stimulation is imperative. Keeping sugar gliders in pairs or groups allows important social interaction. Gliders that are kept alone need 1-2 hours of human interaction per day. Gliders should also be provided with pouches, climbing opportunities, toys (bird toys are great options), hides, and a varied diet. Rather than feeding food in a bowl, set up foraging opportunities. Holes can be drilled in branches and filled with acacia gum or nectar. Live insects can be hidden in containers full of shredded paper or aspen. Hide fruits and veggies on top of platforms or hides. A wheel is also excellent stimulation for a glider, but ensure that it is solid on the running surface. Be sure to rotate toys for your sugar glider so they don’t get bored.
Zoonosis
There are no known cases of sugar gliders transmitting diseases to humans, but it is always a good idea to wash your hands after handling animals.
Health
Sugar gliders are prone to a variety of diseases including cancer, malnutrition, nutritional-secondary hyperparathyroidism (metabolic bone disease), dental disease, and stress related mutilation/hair loss. Sugar gliders should be examined by your veterinarian every 6-12 months. A thorough diet and husbandry review is essential for ensuring your sugar glider’s health.
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Are Frosts usually sedentary, or is it just a personality quirk that mine likes lying down in random areas doing kinda nothing all the time?
They can be sedentary, but where they choose to sit can be a quirk!
For example, one Frost gained online popularity because he would sit in his Operator's bathtub whenever it wasn't being used and would act very offended if the water was turned on
Nekroses are highly intelligent warframes with specific needs, and are typically only kept by experts. They are not to be kept by amateurs and are not suited for life as pets or to be kept for "the aesthetic".
They are opportunistic scavengers, capable of eating many types of foods and require a varied diet to remain healthy - though their diets are composed mosty of meat.
Because of their intelligence, Nekros need a lot more enrichment than the average Warframe and benefit heavily from puzzle feeders.
Nekros also tend to try and gather things they like, ranging from shiny bits of metal to bones and teeth. This isn't a behavior that can (or should!) be stopped, but it is reccomended by most keepers to occasionally clean out any organic material from where they keep their stashes to prevent anything from rotting and turning rancid.
Though Nekroses are scavengers, and in the wild are considered carrion feeders, they shouldn't be given rotten meat or other foods. All food should be given fresh. Nekroses tend to store food, and are capable of digesting rotted foods without getting sick - to a certain extent. If given rotted meat, it is likely that the Nekros will get sick if they store it.
Nekroses are not pets, and should not be treated as such.
A Nekros named Fable gained popularity on social media for one of her favorite vocalizations ("boop boop!"), and a different, wild Nekros gained popularity for stealing a knife and having his picture go viral.
People have been asking me for quite some time about Rhinos and if they eat meat or not. They are, strictly biologically speaking, obligate herbivores. They have no biological need to eat meat the way omnivores and obligate carnivores do.
This does not mean that they do not eat meat. They eat meat quite frequently, especially after a mauling. It is, simply put, an easy way to get protien.
