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Cellar Tour: Vigne di Zamo and their surprising wines

Rosazzo, Colli Orientali DOC

I vividly remember 20 years ago, a Shanghainese friend telling me that she would love to travel to Europe one day. I was shocked when she said she really wanted to see Bulgaria, Romania and Yugoslavia. The most obvious destinations were clearly Paris, Rome, Venice and Barcelona. But she knew little of these cities. This conversation highlighted our Cold War upbringing, but from other sides of the fence. Wondering the extent of my own brainwashing and always up for something new and different, I became intrigued with Eastern Europe and spent 7 years travelling around the region for work. We had been raised to think of the poor and downtrodden surviving in a semi post-apocalyptic world of dreary communist concrete blocks subsisting on boiled potatoes and fat or whatever they could get after queuing all day. This was a partial truth. But it was not the whole story. Along my journeys, I found extraordinary architecture, picturesque country villages and jovial hospital people. Working my way back West, this is what brought us to the Slavic part of Italy, Friuli Venezia-Giulia.

Rosazzo, Colli Orientali del Friuli

Vigne di Zamo

While many Western Europeans would scoff at the idea of drinking Eastern European wine, I was quite often served excellent local wine during my trips. Knowing nothing about the wines from Friuli Venezia-Giulia, we decided to visit a few wineries. We started at Vigne di Zamò, near the Abbazia di Rossazo (the Rossazo Abbey – established in the 9th century and rebuilt over various stages in history). Instead of the expected monochrome and depressing landscape, we discovered elegant estates set in unspoiled valleys of rare natural beauty. But the wines we tasted were even more surprising. There were uniquely aromatic wines with fine acidity, elegantly perfumed and with good minerality.

Abbazia di Rosazzo

Vigne di Zamo‘s vineyards

The Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC has produced white wines since Roman times but only in the 1970’s did the area begin to become renowned, particularly for their  Sauvignon based wines (and to a lesser extent the native varieties of Friulano and Ribolla Gialla). The region consists of the eastern hills of the Friuli region and spans about 60 kilometers long by 15 kilometers wide. It has a lot in common with the neighbouring denomination of Collio DOC but they were divided because before Italy was united as a single country, this area was governed by Udine historically while the Collio was part of Gorizia.

Vineyards

Vineyards

The southern part of the Colli Orientali is where Vigne di Zamò is located. It has a special Mediterranean-like microclimate thanks to the nearby Adriatic sea (visible from the winery) where even olive trees can grow. This microclimate means that the area is best suited to producing red wines. The most prized red wine is made with Refosco then Pignolo followed by Merlot. So, despite being located in an area predominantly known for white wine, Vigne di Zamò produces award-winning red wines and high quality dessert wines. In fact while the rest of the region’s production is 70% white wines, Vigne di Zamò’s production is 70% red wine.

Vigne di Zamo

Vineyard for red wine grapes

Vigne di Zamò owns 67 hectares including some of the oldest vines in the Colli Orientali del Friuli. It was founded under the Abbazia di Rosazzo label in 1978 by Tullio Zamò, the son of a local osteria owner, with the purchase of the Rocca Bernarda vineyard. In 1966, together with his sons Silvano and Pierluigi, he purchased an additional 15 hectares and established the label Vigne di Zamò. Today they own the winery jointly with the Farinetti family (owners of Eataly). They produce 23 types of wines in 280,000 bottles per year. There are three main vineyards: Buttrio (5 hectares), Rosazzo (15 hectares owned and 10 hectares rented) and Rocca Bernarda (10 hectares). Buttrio (together with Cividale and Manzano) is considered the best area for red grape varietals and it is here that Vigne di Zamò have their Refosco dal Penducolo Rosso, Merlot and Cabernet vines.

The press

The stainless steel tanks

Their grapes are hand picked. The white wines all have at least a partial stainless steel tank fermentation whereas all red wines are aged in wood. Even the white wines, have the potential for aging even if they were fermented in stainless steel tanks.

Barrels of all different sizes

Barrels of all different sizes

Wooden vats

In Friuli Venezia-Giulia, like in most of our journeys around the world, we found people with an appreciation for good food and fine wine. We wondered out loud if perhaps the Slavs went along with the negative imagery portrayed as a conspiracy to keep this extraordinary place pristine and for themselves. The next time we are asked for our favourite destinations in Europe, they certainly will not be the same as those I had thought of 20 years ago.

What are your favourite European destinations you have been to or would love to see?

If you enjoyed this post then please share with anyone you know that might be interested.

Scenery around Rosazzo

This recipe for Gubana, a traditional local cake, is provided by Vigne di Zamò which they suggest to accompany their sweet wine Vola…Vola. The recipe is by Mario Busso and Antonio Chiodi Latini from the book Dolceitalia il Gusto by Gribaudo Editore.

Gubana

Gubana (pastry filled with dried fruit, chocolate and nuts)

Serves 6

Ingredients:

500 g puff pastry

150 g raisins

2 cups Friulano wine

100 g walnuts, chopped

3 dried figs, finely chopped

3 prunes, finely chopped

50 g candied citron peel

50 g pine nuts

30 g dark chocolate

1/2 orange, zested

1/2 lemon, zested

40 g butter

100 g breadcrumbs

2 eggs

icing sugar

  Preparation:

Preheat the oven to 180C. Place the raisins in a bowl and soak in the wine for half an hour.

Filling:

Toast the breadcrumbs in butter in a frying pan. Place in a bowl and add the soaked raisins, prunes, figs, citron and lemon and orange zests.

Separate the egg and beat the yolks. Separately beat the egg whites until they form stiff peaks.

Add half of the yolks to the fruit mixture, stirring well. Add in the nuts and chocolate, stirring well to combine. Fold in the egg whites.

  Roll out the puff pastry to a rectangle. Add the filling to the centre in a line lengthwise. Roll the pastry around the filling to form a roll. Twist the roll into a spiral and place on a buttered and floured baking dish. Brush the top of the pastry with the remaining egg yolk. Bake for 45 minutes. Let cool and sprinkle the top with icing sugar.

  The Wines:

Note: Ratings are out of a maximum of 3.

Both red and white wines from this area can be high in alcohol so check the percentage of alcohol on the label. They quality can also vary from year to year so check wine ratings and reviews for each wine’s vintage.

Basic white wines:

Sauvignon, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC

This wine is made out of 100% Sauvignon grapes which are fermented for 8 months in stainless steel tanks. They produce 9,500 bottles per year. The alcohol level is 13.5%

Pairing: tomato and asparagus-based pasta and rice dishes, omelettes, shellfish and sea bass

Serving: 12°C

Rating: Gambero Rosso: 2 bicchieri

Zamò Bianco IGT Venezia-Giulia

This white wine is made with Ribolla Gialla, Friulano, Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio and Riesling grape varietals. Most of the wine is pressed upon harvest but 30% (Riesling and Sauvignon grapes) are left to cold-macerate for 48 hours before pressing. The varietals are vinified separately and aged in steel tanks for 6 months. They produce 13,500 bottles per year. It has an alcohol level of 12.5%.

Tasting: Wine Enthusiast on the 2007 vintage, “This white blend from Northeast Italy (Ribolla Gialla, Friulano, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon and Riesling) delivers sweet floral aromas of honeysuckle, jasmine and acacia. The wine has a golden color with amber highlights but the mouthfeel is less dense and structured than you’d expect. Pair it with pasta and clams with chopped parsley.  — M.L.  (8/1/2009)”

Pairing: fish, herb and vegetable omelettes, cold soups and pasta or rice with fish or vegetable sauces

Serving: 12°C

Timing:

Rating: Veronelli: 1 star

Ribolla Gialla, Collio Orientali del Friuli DOC Rosazzo

Ribolla Gialla, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC Rosazzo

This wine is made 100% Ribolla Gialla grapes. 80% of the grapes are cold-macerated for 48 hours before pressing and fermenting in stainless steel tanks. The remaining 20% are macerated for 3 days before pressing and are fermented in oak barrels. Half then undergoes a malolactic fermentation to add flavour and complexity to the wine. They produce 16,000 bottles per year. It has an alcohol level of 12.5%. We found the 2013 vintage of this wine enjoyably light with minerality.

Tasting: Wine Enthusiast on the 2007 vintage, “Neutral fruit tones and drying mineral notes sum up Rosazzo’s low intensity aromas. The wine delivers more personality in the mouth thanks to its medium density and compact feel. Pair it with baked mussels au gratin.  — M.L.  (8/1/2009)”

Pairing: fish, shellfish

Serving: 12°C

Friulano Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC

This wine is made entirely with Friulano grapes. 30% are cold-macerated for 48 hours and fermented in stainless steel. The rest are fermented for 10 months with half undergoing malolactic fermentation before blending. They produce 13,500 bottles per year.

Pairing: pasta, rice and white meat

Serving: 12°C

Rating: Gambero Rosso: 2 bicchiere

Fine white wines (Cru Bianchi):

Malvasia, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC

Made with 100% Malvasia Istriana grapes from the Vigna dal Leon vineyeard. 80% of the grapes are macerated with the skins for 48 hours and then fermented in stainless steel tanks. The rest are macerated on the skins for 5 days and aged in barrique. Half undergoes malolactic fermentation before blending. They produce 4,000 bottles per year. It has an alcohol level of 13.5%.

Pairing: risotto, fish soup and prosciutto di San Daniele

Serving: 12°C

Rating: Gambero Rosso: 1 bicchiere

 Pinot Bianco Tulli Zamò, Colli del Orientali del Friuli DOC

This wine is made with 100% Pinot Bianco grapes Half the grapes are pressed upon harvest and fermented in stainless steel and barrique. The remaining is cold-macerated for one night, pressed and fermented in stainless steel and barrique. Half undergoes malolactic fermentation. They produce 5,250 bottles per year. It has an alcohol level of 14.5%.

Tasting: Wine Enthusiast on the 2004 vintage (tasted 2008), “Here’s a wood-aged Pinot Bianco with aromas of vanilla and creamy butter backed by banana, exotic fruit and mango. The oak shadings give the wine a sophisticated, opulent edge and suggest a pairing with lobster or New England clam chowder.  — M.L.  (7/1/2008)”

Pairing: fish, mushroom or white meat flavoured rice or pasta dishes, beans, salt cod and stockfish

Serving: 15°C

Rating: Gambero Rosso: 2 bicchieri

Friulano Vigne 50 Anni, Colli Oriental del Friuli DOC

Friulano Vigne 50 Anni, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC

This is made with 100% Friulano grapes grown on vines which are an average of 60 years old. 30% of the grapes are cold-macerated for 48 hours and fermented in stainless steel for 10 months. 50% undergoes malolactic fermentation. They produce 12,760 bottles per year. It has an alcohol level of 14.5%.

Tasting: Wine Enthusiast on the 2006 vintage (tasted 2008), “This is a creamy, sophisticated wine with a luminous golden hue and abundant aromas of honey, apricot, fruit candy and almond. The wine has heft and dimension and offers a rich, full feel in the mouth.  — M.L.  (11/15/2008)”

Pairing: pasta, rice and white meat

Serving: 14°C

Timing: can last up to 15 years

Rating: Gambero Rosso: 2+ to 3 bicchieri (depending on the vintage)

Ronco delle Acacie, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC

This wine is a blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Friulano and grapes. 70% is macerated with the skins and the rest without before fermentation in wood. They produce 14,400 bottles per year. It has an alcohol level of 14%.

Pairing: soup, fish soup, fatty fish, white meat

Serving: 12°C

Rating: Gambero Rosso: 2+ to 3 bicchieri (depending on the vintage)

Ronco di Corte, IGT Venezia Giulia

It is made from 40% Chardonnay, 40% Sauvignon and 20% Riesling grapes fermented in stainless steel tanks. They produce 16,500 bottles. It has an alcohol level of 13.5%.

Pairing: shellfish, fish, pasta, rice, tomatoes, peppers and asparagus

Serving: 12°C

Rose wine:

Pinot Grigio, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC

This rose wine is made from 100% with sun-blushed Pinot Grigio grapes. Half of the grapes are cold-macerated and then fermented in stainless steel tanks for 6 months. The other half are left on the skins for 4 days and then malolactic fermented in oak barrels for six months. The wines are then blended and bottled. They produce 10,000 bottles per year.

Tasting: Wine Enthusiast on the 2010 vintage, “This nicely structured Pinot Grigio shows a “ramato” or copper color and slightly oxidized aromas of butterscotch, bitter almond and ripe melon. The structure is bigger and more defined than a standard Italian white.  — M.L.  (8/1/2012)”

Pairing: steamed shellfish and fish and shellfish based pasta and risotto.

Serving: 12°C

Rating: Veronelli: 2 stars

Basic red wines:

Merlot, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC

This wine is made from 100% Merlot grapes. It is macerated for 10-12 days and aged in stainless steel tanks where it undergoes malolactic fermentation. It is aged in barrique and oak barrels for 12 months. They produce 13,300 bottles per year. It has an alcohol level of 13.5%.

Pairing: cold meat, red meat, cheeses

Serving: 18°C

Zamò Rosso, IGT Venezia Giulia

This wine is made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso grapes. It is macerated for 10-12 days and aged in stainless steel tanks where it undergoes malolactic fermentation. It is aged in oak barrels for 6 months. They produce 13,500 bottles per year. It has an alcohol level of 13%.

Pairing: flavourful rice and pasta dishes, grilled fish, white meat, semi-mature cheeses

Serving: 14-16°C

Cabernet, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC

This is made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes. It is macerated for 12-15 days and aged in stainless steel tanks where it undergoes malolactic fermentation. It is aged in large oak barrels for 8 months. They produce 8,900 bottles per year. It has an alcohol level of 13%.

Pairing: frico (crisped cheese or cheese baked with potatoes and onion), salami, sausage, omelettes

Serving: 18°C

Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, Il Re Fosco, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC

This wine is made from 100% Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso grapes. It is macerated for 10-12 days and aged in stainless steel tanks where it undergoes malolactic fermentation. It is aged in barrique and oak barrels for 12 months. They produce 3,800 bottles per year. It has an alcohol level of 13%.

Pairing: cold meats, poultry, veal, meat-filled pastas, cheeses

Serving: 18°C

Rating: Veronelli: 3 stars

Fine Red Wines (Cru Rossi):

Pignolo, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC

Made with 100% Pignolo grapes. It is macerated for 15-20 days in oak vats and large barrels. It is aged in new barrique where it undergoes malolactic fermentation and matures for 24 months. It then matures in large vats for another 2 months. They produce 4,300 bottles per year. It has an alcohol level of 14%.

Pairing: game such as wild boar or venison, pork trotters, mature cheeses; aged pignolo can be served with bitter chocolate

Serving: 18°C

Rating: Gambero Rosso: 3 bicchieri

Schiopettino, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC

Schiopettino, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC

This wine is made from 100% Schiopettino grapes. It is macerated for 15 days and settled in stainless steel tanks. It is aged in new barrique where it undergoes malolactic fermentation and matures for 18 months. They produce 5,000 bottles per year. It has an alcohol level of 13.5%.

Pairing: game, mature cheeses; aged Schiopettino can be paired with bitter chocolate

Serving: 18°C

Rating: Veronelli: 3 stars

 Merlot Vigne 50 Anni, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC

Made with 100% Merlot grapes. It is macerated for 20 days in oak vats and large barrels. It is aged in new barrique where it undergoes malolactic fermentation. It then matures in large vats for another 2 months. They produce 5,000 bottles of wine per year. It has 13.5% alcohol.

Pairing: game, grilled red meat, mature cheeses

Serving: 18°C

Rating: Gambero Rosso: 3 bicchiere

 Il Re-Fosco, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC

It is made with 100% Refosco grapes which are macerated for 20 days in oak vats and large barrels. It is aged in new barriques where it undergoes malolactic fermentation and matures for 16 months. It then matures in large vats for another 2 months. They produce 3,700 bottles of wine per year. It has 14% alcohol.

Pairing: pasta with game, game birds, hard cheeses

Serving: 18°C

Ronco dei Roseti, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC, Rosazzo

This wine is a blend of 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Pignolo. It is macerated for 15 days and settled in stainless steel tanks. It is aged in new barrique where it undergoes malolactic fermentation and matures for 16-18 months. It then rests in large oak barrels for 5 months. They produce 9,000 bottles per year. It has 13.5% alcohol.

Pairing: roast, grilled or stewed veal, lamb, duck or pork

Serving: 18°C

Rating: Veronelli: 3 stars

Pinot Nero, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC

This is made with 100% Pinot Nero. It is macerated for 12 days in oak vats and settled in stainless steel tanks. It is aged in new barrique where it undergoes malolactic fermentation and matures for 18 months. They produce 1,200 bottles per year. It has 13.5% alcohol.

Pairing: stewed venison, lamb or beef, rice or pasta with radicchio, goat cheese

Serving: 18°C

Sweet wines:

Vola…Vola… IGT Venezia Giulia

This wine is made from Picolit, Sauvignon and Verduzzo grapes. Half of the Verduzzo and Sauvignon grapes are cold macerated. The remaining grapes are partially dried and pressed. It is barrel fermented and then matured in large barrels. They produce 4,190 bottles per year. It has 14.5% alcohol.

Tasting: Wine Enthusiast on the 2007 vintage, “A beautiful blend of Picolit, Sauvignon and Verduzzo, this is a well-balanced selection that shows structure, persistence and long, lingering fruity aromas. The finish is smooth, sweet and rich.  — M.L.  (12/1/2012)”

Pairing: mature cheeses, citrus biscuits and chocolate

Serving: 12°C

Rating: Gambero Rosso: 2 bicchiere

Picolit, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC Rosaz pzo

The grapes are dried and aged in new barrique for two years and then in small bottles for two year. They produce 642 bottles per year. It has an alcohol level of 13%.

Tasting: Wine Enthusiast on the 2003 vintage, “Very dark in color, this Picolit from the celebrated Rosazzo cru offers thick and syrupy tones of almond nut, dried apricot, honey and marzipan. It’s a ripe and very sweet wine with thick sugary layers in the mouth. The hot 2003 vintage has shaped a mature expression of Picolit.  — M.L.  (12/15/2008)”

Pairing: blue cheese, foie gras, fegato alla veneziana (calve’s liver with onions), raw shellfish

Serving: 12°C

Le Vigne di Zamo

Azienda Agricola Società Agricola Semplice

Via Abate Corrado, 4

Località Rosazzo, Manzano(UD)

Tel: +39 0432 759693

Email: [email protected]