#burdaystyle patterns

Playful Novelty Jacket from BurdaStyle: Faux Fur Jacket 120

This new pattern from BurdaStyle is what we call a novelty: something unusual which is part of its appeal, and not likely to be become a classic which is also part of its appeal. This cropped jacket done up in a large faux-fur print fits the bill. The large plaid, the frankly fake fur, and the wide and dropped collar mark this as a playful garment. With its cut, it is not going to keep your warm, but it could work as a substitute for an evening wrap for an energetic woman who would find a stole too fussy. Stoles, like draped garments, work best on those who move at a slower pace.

This garment is relatively simple, boxy shape. It shuts with zipper in the front, has raglan sleeves, which are the easiest to add to garment, and there are not darts. Deciding upon the placement of the plaid and matching it from side to side and from sleeve to body takes some effort, but it is easier on a small garment like this. Of course, you could opt out of plaid and choose a bright, solid fake fur instead. They reference the 1950s for its cut and indeed there were short jackets of various kinds made during that decade as well as collar cut-away from the neck which are seen in the early 1960s too.

Remember, most furs have a nap, or a direction, so cut your pieces out all in the same direction. Usually, you want the nap running down. Also, shorter fur is easier to work with as long furs may mean picking them out of the seam lines. They do point out that you could make this out of wool as well, and there are bright and playful coatings, so that is another option that would be true to the spirit of the garment.

BurdaStyle, March May, I meant May, 2022 (it is freezing where I live)

This issue is ready for summer sewing. On the cover you see a lively shirt dress #102 in a red, white and blue print that is the subject of one of the full sewing lessons included in the issue. As you can see in the sketches, the unruffled version appears as #102. The other full sewing lesson offered, which includes inserting a zipper, is for the high-waisted trousers #113. Of course, portions of these lessons are applicable to other patterns, and they are in addition to mini-lessons found in the Glossary at the back of the sewing instructions for all the patterns. 

My favorite of the issue is a dress #107 with draped collar, surplice bodice, cap sleeves and a skirt cut on the bias. They show it in the solid color and also in a print, and it would work for either work or play depending on the color or print you choose. If you prefer a different skirt than bias cut, it would be easy enough to swap it in. I am thinking that something with a few soft pleats would echo the gathered that marks the collar. If you prefer a bit more sleeve, it would be easy enough to extend them. The easy blouse #109 (which becomes the top for the jumpsuit #108) also has simple gathers. It makes the most of a fabric choice with some drape, such as a soft rayon challis or cotton voile or silk crepe. I am always keen on easy ways to fabrics that drape well.

As you can see from the sketches, there are several plus-sized dresses including surplice styles and a sheath. Really a lot of choose from in this issue including children’s wear. This issue does include all the patterns as a series of coded lines printed over on one another. So you need to trace them out on your own paper. It takes more time, but you gain some twenty-odd patterns in multiple sizes.

Square Sleeves and Round Yolk: The Music Class Blouse

This blouse at BurdaStyle is also dubbed Short Sleeve Blouse 01/2011 and comes as part of a collection called Music Class which has multiple vintage details on its blouses, jackets, and coats. This one in particular intrigued me. The original used loops for the buttons, but I decided to extend the front facings to center the buttons and use buttonholes. Other than that, I did no modifications.

While we don’t often see sleeve attached to blouses with square armholes, they can be found in patterns from the 1930s. We we find one here on a sleeve that flares over the top of the arm and narrows to nothing when it reaches the under arm. I attached the sleeve to the blouse on the vertical seam and then laid the sleeve over the blouse front along the horizontal seam, with seam allowance tucked under, and edge stitched it. Earlier pattern designers preferred laying a pattern piece (with seam allowances pressed under) on top of a another piece and edge stitched when they had a right of acute angle in a design.

Today, we are often told to reinforce the angle seam line with stitching, then clip to the inner corner and then sew the pieces together even as the seam allowance near the clip become TEENY TINY. This creates a far less stable seam and leads to errors during and unravelings after. Laying over was and is often wiser.

Another feature of this blouse is the fabric gathered to the yoke. We do sometimes see gatherings on blouses, especially to replace a dart with the fullness over the front bustline. But we don’t often see them on a rounded yoke to which both front and back and top sleeve edge is gathered. As you can see, you attach those pieces to one another, gather them along their edges and then attache them to the edges of the yoke.

This creates a very soft look around the shoulders, as you can see from their photo, so long as the fabric has a lot of drape. I am using a rayon challis, so it is working. Anything crisper and the sleeves would appear to be taking off in flight, rather than draping, and the whole might seem massive.

I will show you the finished product soon. Meanwhile, you can find this pattern for yourself here. This is PDF pattern that you need to print out, tape together, and add seam allowances and hems. 

BurdaStyle, January 2022

The BurdaStyle magazine contains all of the patterns offered within it, all set out overlapping one another on a series of pattern sheets bundled into the middle of the magazine. Because they overlap, in order to preserve the rest of them, you will have to copy the pattern pieces onto some other pieces of paper. So you can use a wheel and chalk papers system, or a see-through plastic or fiber that yo drawn on. It takes more time, but the idea is that you pay much less than if you purchased individual patterns. The math on the cover, “197 patterns” only works if you count the multi-sized patterns as each size a separate pattern, and then count the lengthening or shortening of a hem or sleeve or some other minot variation as a separate pattern. By my count, there are 26 patterns in here. Still, a deal. The written sewing instructions are also included.

The cover makes the most of a simple dress with angel wing sleeves (line the sleeves with a harmonizing fabric and the result is far more dramatic) done in a complicated border print, Dress 114. Then, I give you my favorite tailored pieces, Cropped Blazer 112A which is done in a fancy jacquard but would work as a work piece in a more sober color. Then, Coat 116 which is a flared coat, that comes in a short and long version, but which you can also wear belted as they style it. 

I am always intriguing by draped necklines, and Dress 109 has a long attached collar which then is drawn around the back of the neck and forward. They made it in a woven, a chambray, and cut the scarf of the straight of grain. It would drape better on the bias, or you might make the whole thing in a jersey knit with some body.

Lastly, you see the sketch of the dress or top by designer Helene Galwas which has thin straps and then a frill of sheer organza along the front and back neckline. The dream of the sketch is that the organza remains stiff enough to defy gravity; the reality is that it will droop over time as the photo shows. Defying gravity generally takes a really stiff fabric, or a ton of starch, or some kind of inner structure like boning or wire. So, be willing to leave with it falling about if you try and make it. A little lesson on gathering fabrics will help with this project.

There are some nice simple patterns for beginners in here too, as you see from the “All Styles At A Glance” shows you. All the patterns come in a range of sizes, some come in plus sizes. In addition, Dress 118 has full illustrated instructions included, as does Coat 101, and a glossary explains lengthening and shortening pattern pieces, using invisible zippers, covering buttons, understitching a facing, and working with leather. The small project bonus illustrates how to make some soft gear for your sewing room, like a pad to go under your machine that then has pockets for tools and scraps. (I use boxes and a wastebasket myself).

An Evening Jacket by BurdaStyle: Jacquard Jacket 119|Burda Style 10/21 

With the cooler weather hitting where I live, we are thinking about winter holidays and something to keep us warm while we celebrate. An evening cape was a must according to the Dress Doctors, even for the scholarship college woman who had very little cash to spare. Fortunately, simple circular capes were within the means of any woman handy with a needle and thread.

This version is an update which takes the princess seams and shawl collar of tradition and combines it with a zipper feature that the designer called a “retro biker” look suggesting the motorcycle jackets in leather. Of course, if you don’t like the zipper, it is easy enough to eliminate in favor of some beautiful buttons and loops or some frogs. Considering how many lovely glass buttons there are to choose from for evening wear, I would opt for those myself. Of course, then you would skip the belt.

Notice that they used a golden jacquard and you can imagine this in metallic brocades as well, so long as they aren’t too heavy, or satins or even silk dupioni. I always think the problem with working on evening wear is that you come up with too many ideas and not enough evenings out. There is something about luxurious fabrics that make my imagination soar even though I also appreciate a sharp suit for work.

This pattern comes in bust sizes 36″ to 44″ via a pdf which means you can buy it online, download it, but then you need to print it out and tape it together. There is a video offered up explaining how to do this. Investing in a weighed tape dispenser is my tip for the day.