#burdastyle patterns

BurdaStyle October 2022

The mod dress in a bold print of greens, reds and creams illustrates the principle that a print can obliterate  details in a garment because you can’t make them out easily. Dress 121 A  has an interesting neckline created by a front center seam and then a band that creates a kind of keyhole at the top. The dress flares slightly towards the hemline while bust darts fit it to the body, and the set-in sleeves are pleated where the meet the cuffs. That neckline will have more of an impact in a solid-color.

Another interesting detail appears in the Blouse 129 which comes in plus sizes. The sleeves, which are gathered at the shoulder and ruffled at the hemline, contain an inset of a sheer fabric as well. While they did it in a bold red and a sheer print, you can imagine all kinds of combinations of solid with sheer fabrics. I can imagine a regal gold satin with a sheer fabric to match for evening wear.

Coat 122 in beige is one of their Designer Styles, but it seems to lack front  buttons save the one added at the lapel, so it is for wearing in warmer climates. A double-breasted coat with buttons is your best option for really cold weather.

Coat 108 is a Masterpiece item which means something that takes time and skill that you will want to wear for years. Here that means matching the large plaid and putting in welt pockets, adding a full lining, etc.  The other Masterpiece items are the long vest, Gilet 114 for which there is a full sewing lesson, the short Jacket 109 and the Jacket 130 which comes in plus sizes and has asymmetrical zipper. 

The other full sewing lesson is for the miniskirt 116 which has no waistband but an exterior belt. Otherwise the sewing instructions are un-illustrated although certain techniques are explained with illustrations in the Glossary. As usual, you need to copy tracings of the patterns, which are all included in multiple sizes, on the sheets there they are printed on top of one another using different colored lines. This means you spend time but not so much money for a fair number of patterns. The dog stuff includes, a bone, a blanket, a collar, lead, and bandana, plus a bag to put bags in, or you could use your pockets like I do. ;-)

Threads Magazine, Winter 2022

This issue offers a lot of special items for fancy occasions, but it also offers coverage of more common sewing projects.

It begins with a seasonal dress-up fabric, velveteen, see the rich purple jacket on the cover. Sandra Betzina offers advice on using this fabric, and that jacket which is BurdaStyle 6661, offers a clever embellishment with golden beads and buttons shooting like comets. The Up Close feature on the back of this issue is a jacket with a doubled peplum which Kenneth D. King explains how to copy. In between we get an an article by Katherine Seeburger on her “opera dress,” which you see in the floral brocade, a special occasion dress which she planned and created with the help of King and Susan Khalje. And we get the winners of the Make It With Wool contest which includes this felted white wool coat, embroidered and embellished, by Kim Vogley which comes with a dress.

Duane MacLeod offers a technical article on sewing welt pockets which I am ready to try, and Linda Lee offers advice on creating a capsule wardrobe, an old idea of coordinating colors and shapes which is always worth reviving to my mind. There is also a gift section suggesting everything from a new machine to a trip to France. All this plus reviews of new patterns, and interviews including one with Natalie Chanin known for the Alabama Chanin company and its striking but simple embellishments.

BurdaStyle, July 2022

The cover lets you know that this issue will be all about summer travel to warm places, although there are 2 tailored jackets and Jacket 117 has a full step-by-step sewing lesson for it. But here I give you 3 summer dresses and an unusual top.

On the front cover you have Dress 122, a reissued pattern from 1961, when the fitted bodice and flared skirt was still in style as it had been in the 1950s. (Only later in the 1960s did the a-line mini dress make its debut). Harmonizing trim draws attention up to the face and pinch the waist, while the skirt is a simple rectangle pleated at the waistline. So many lovely combinations come to mind. Pick a print and then find your solid.

Then Dress 106 offers a surplice bodice, little ties at the shoulders and an unusual hemline created by laying the center seam of the skirt along the straight of grain while the length at the side seams are elongated. As 107, the same Dress  loses its ties and handkerchief hemline for a less whimsical look. Then we have Dress 102 which has piecing instead of darts to shape its bustline and  buttons up the front. A small section of gathers at below the bustline and at center back give the skirt enough width to be comfortable. There is a video lesson on sewing this model on YouTube.

Finally, we have an unusual knit Top #119. See the photo and then the little sketch and you will realize that the armholes come out the top of the pattern creating a kind of cowl under the arms. Its success depends on the drape of the knit according to them, and on the fit according to me. So long as the armhole is not so deep as to reveal more flesh than makes you comfortable, it will work. You may want to make a test muslin with a cheaper fabric to see. But make sure it has the same drape and stretch as the fashion fabric you want to use for the final model.

As the sketches show you, there are more dresses and tops, plus two caftans to wear loose or belted, and some children’s clothing as well. All patterns are included, though you must trace them onto other paper, and simple directions as well as some more sewing tips for the trickery techniques. Also, a few little projects like a small hand bag, etc.

BurdaStyle, March May, I meant May, 2022 (it is freezing where I live)

This issue is ready for summer sewing. On the cover you see a lively shirt dress #102 in a red, white and blue print that is the subject of one of the full sewing lessons included in the issue. As you can see in the sketches, the unruffled version appears as #102. The other full sewing lesson offered, which includes inserting a zipper, is for the high-waisted trousers #113. Of course, portions of these lessons are applicable to other patterns, and they are in addition to mini-lessons found in the Glossary at the back of the sewing instructions for all the patterns. 

My favorite of the issue is a dress #107 with draped collar, surplice bodice, cap sleeves and a skirt cut on the bias. They show it in the solid color and also in a print, and it would work for either work or play depending on the color or print you choose. If you prefer a different skirt than bias cut, it would be easy enough to swap it in. I am thinking that something with a few soft pleats would echo the gathered that marks the collar. If you prefer a bit more sleeve, it would be easy enough to extend them. The easy blouse #109 (which becomes the top for the jumpsuit #108) also has simple gathers. It makes the most of a fabric choice with some drape, such as a soft rayon challis or cotton voile or silk crepe. I am always keen on easy ways to fabrics that drape well.

As you can see from the sketches, there are several plus-sized dresses including surplice styles and a sheath. Really a lot of choose from in this issue including children’s wear. This issue does include all the patterns as a series of coded lines printed over on one another. So you need to trace them out on your own paper. It takes more time, but you gain some twenty-odd patterns in multiple sizes.

Stripes Gone Wild: BurdaStyle Twill Dress 121 07/2021

This is a modern dress with some vintage details. The length and flare of the skirt is reminiscent of the 1950s when a tiny waist and a large skirt were popular. The shirt-waist front bodice on a dress then coupled with a side opening was popular for much of the 20th century. It allowed for the kind of complex details you see here reminiscent of a shirt-waist or blouse--double-breasted button front, shaped neckline, and collar--without having to bring the buttons all the way down to the hemline. Instead, a snap placket in the side seam lets you pull the dress over your head. Here, a zipper is used instead.

Playing with stripes has always been popular as they are among the simplest patterns. By placing them on the bias and matching them for forming chevrons, you can create a playful and dynamic look as you see here. Imagine leaving the stripes all straight on a less-flared skirt and you can see that the entire dress would become much more sober in flavor.

Choosing stripes does mean more work matching the stripes. Careful cutting is key, and then basting and checking before final sewing is necessary. Still, I always enjoy bias chevron skirts in the summer as they seem to capture the spirit of the season.  

BurdaStyle June 2022

This is a summer issue with a white dress on the cover and more ideas for staying cool. That Dress 114 has a boat neckline and a fit and flare silhouette with cap sleeves. They made it in cotton pique and suggest lightweight dress fabrics with some body.

The Blouse 113 has pleating at the shoulder, but interests me most with its sheer sleeves, an idea you could apply to most any shirt pattern for a cooler summer look. Notice in the sketches Shirt 116 a boxy shape with curved side slits which they show as a lightweight jacket; again, another idea you could apply to most shirt patterns; cut it a size larger if you want a roomier fit. A more fitted blouse with peplum is Blouse 102 which has sleeves gathered at the top, but you could switch them out if that is not your style.

The love blue print with the gathered neckline comes in plus-sizes. , Dress 128 has elastic at the neckline and a tie in the back, plus two tiers to the skirt. The flared sleeves make the most of a cooling breeze. It is made in a rayon print. These kinds of gathered dresses work best in such drapey fabrics.

The masterpiece mentioned on the cover is Mini Dress 123. See the sketches; the sequins are the lower band of the dress. To me, this draws too much emphasis from the face, but it certainly makes working with sequins easier.

BurdaStyle April 2022

It’s spring and this issue has a wide range of patterns as these images prove. From casual wear to a vintage wedding gown to work wear, there is a little bit for everyone.

The the cheery blouse on the cover 110 A,B, has its bodice opening off-center to the wearer’s left, but the peplum below opens at the center. It is lengthened and given buttons to appear as the shirt dress 109 A B.

The dress you see here is the raglan-sleeved 115 which is shown loose, perfect for a hot day, but could take a belt as well if you prefer. They made it in viscose which has drape and gives it a more slender silhouette as it falls close to the body.

The wedding gown Dress 121 dates back to 1957. It is fully lined, has a long, gored, flared skirt, a fitted bodice with scalloped lace overlay and then the lace alone for the sleeves. They suggest silk satin which is a traditional choice.

Then there is Blazer 119 whose front overlap goes off-center to the same degree below as the line of the lapel does above. It has welt pockets and buttons at the waistline, and can take its own wide belt.

This issue offers up 10 dresses, 1 in plus sizes; 3 blouses that aren’t shortened versions of the dresses with 1 in plus sizes; the gown; 3 jackets, 1 in plus sizes; 1 pair of pants in regular sizes and 1 in plus sizes, and 1 skirt in regular sizes and 1 in plus size; lastly, a vest in plus sizes. So 23 patterns for women, and then 1 coat and 2  dresses for girls, plus one shortened to a blouse. There are some diy table setting projects, and instructions on how to make roses out of bias strips of fabric (my tip: they are best in diaphanous, ombre fabrics).

BurdaStyle March 2022

This issue offers some 27 patterns plus several variations on those with length or sleeve options, including both boys’ and plus sizes. All of them appear on large sheets of overlapping lines and then you are supposed to copy your size onto your own paper, then add seam allowances and facings. For two of the patterns, a jacket and a skirt, they offer fully illustrated instructions. Ditto for some of the small items like the change purses, For the rest, you need to work your way through the written instructions.

To help, there is a glossary with some images as well. This can be a great help. For example, the glossary offers instructions on understitching (a word they somehow don’t want to use within pattern instructions), on inserting an invisible zipper, etc.

My favorites this time are mostly the plus size patterns, size 44 and up. Dress 128 has a surplice top with gathers under the bustline, ties in the back, and some unnecessary epaulettes which you can leave off. You can flare the skirt more than the patterns calls for if you want to avoid the slits in the sizes. This is also a top, and both should be made in jerseys. Another plus size pattern is Trousers 127 A & B which go on with a back zipper but have a tie in front which makes for a casual summer look. If playing with the stripes at the hemline doesn’t appeal, you can skip it. The Trench Coat 125 also comes in plus sizes and has many details including princess seams for shaping and a back storm flap. It is also double-breasted which is always my preference for a raincoat as it keeps out the wind and the wet on a blowy day

My favorite of the size 36 and up is the simple wrapped dress Tie Dye Dress 106 which benefits from a softer edged border print . A puffy sleeve version is supplied as well. There is something for any kind of dress lover: a sheath dress, a v-neck dress, and a tiered dress. Plus plenty of tops for both wovens and knits.