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Had to send this monster through the ultrasonic tank four times, to do a different quadrant each time, because it was too big to fit all at once.
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Aligned, wired in place, fluxed where I want solder, anti-fluxed where I don't want solder, ColdShielded everywhere that I don't want extra heat (which is everywhere but the part being soldered).
And attached.
It'll look less gross once I clean and polish it.
Tape all over a broken solder joint, where the bell connects to the valve casing. Was it air-tight? Haha no, not at all.
How it looked underneath all the tape:
Insert youtried.jpg here.
Someone didn't properly clean and flux the area, so instead of flowing into the joint the solder just lumped up around it.
I removed the bell completely, removed the excess solder, rolled out the dents in the bell flare, straightened the bent braces, cleaned out the joint surfaces, realigned everything and soldered the bell back on.
And how the soldered area looked after a quick polish:
Not amazing but a lot better than it was. Ancient, beat-up school instrument, and they just needed it functional, not pretty.
Euphonium with the 3rd valve veeerrry slightly bent. Could barely see it but it was enough to make the valve hang in the casing. How to fix?
Shove it in one of these steel sleeves.
And then hit it with a hammer:
Hit it with a hammer a lot.
Quite a large amount of problems in the repair world get fixed by hitting them.
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Doing a trigger slide mod on a cornet, and this. fucking. ferrule. just does not want to come off.
HOW MUCH GODDAMN HEAT DO YOU NEED
Today I learned that John Packer Instruments idiot-proofed the JP377 tuba valves by making piston #2 slightly larger than #1 and #3.
(It does not matter if 1 and 3 get swapped around because the port locations are identical, but 2 is different. #4 is shorter than the others, so it only has one place it can go.)
Rotor from a Hirsbrunner tuba. The delrin insert is to reduce weight.
