Top Posts Tagged with #boqta

Married Mongolian Women’s Hairstyle in the Yuan Dynasty

Mongolians have a long history of shaving and cutting their hair in specific styles to signal socioeconomic, marital, and ethnic status that spans thousands of years. The cutting and shaving of the hair was also regarded as an important symbol of change and transition. No Mongolian tradition exemplifies this better than the first haircut a child receives called Daah Urgeeh, khüükhdiin üs avakh (cutting the child’s hair), or örövlög ürgeekh (clipping the child’s crest) (Mongulai, 2018)

The custom is practiced for boys when they are at age 3 or 5, and for girls at age 2 or 4. This is due to the Mongols’ traditional belief in odd numbers as arga (method) [also known as action, ᠮᠣᠩᠭᠤᠯ, арга] and even numbers as bilig (wisdom) [ᠪᠢᠴᠢᠭ, билиг].

Mongulai, 2018.

The Mongolian concept of arga bilig (see above) represents the belief that opposite forces, in this case action [external] and wisdom [internal], need to co-exist in stability to achieve harmony. Although one may be tempted to call it the Mongolian version of Yin-Yang, arga bilig is a separate concept altogether with roots found not in Chinese philosophy nor Daoism, but Eurasian shamanism.

However, Mongolian men were not the only ones who shaved their hair. Mongolian women did as well.

Flemish Franciscan missionary and explorer, William of Rubruck [Willem van Ruysbroeck] (1220-1293) was among the earliest Westerners to make detailed records about the Mongol Empire, its court, and people. In one of his accounts he states the following:

But on the day following her marriage, (a woman) shaves the front half of her head, and puts on a tunic as wide as a nun's gown, but everyway larger and longer, open before, and tied on the right side. […] Furthermore, they have a head-dress which they call bocca [boqtaq/gugu hat] made of bark, or such other light material as they can find, and it is big and as much as two hands can span around, and is a cubit and more high, and square like the capital of a column. This bocca they cover with costly silk stuff, and it is hollow inside, and on top of the capital, or the square on it, they put a tuft of quills or light canes also a cubit or more in length. And this tuft they ornament at the top with peacock feathers, and round the edge (of the top) with feathers from the mallard's tail, and also with precious stones. The wealthy ladies wear such an ornament on their heads, and fasten it down tightly with an amess [J: a fur hood], for which there is an opening in the top for that purpose, and inside they stuff their hair, gathering it together on the back of the tops of their heads in a kind of knot, and putting it in the bocca, which they afterwards tie down tightly under the chin.

Ruysbroeck, 1900

TLDR: Mongolian women shaved the front half of their head and covered it with a boqta, the tall Mongolian headdress worn by noblewomen throughout the Mongol empire. Rubruck observed this hairstyle in noblewomen (boqta was reserved only for noblewomen). It’s not clear whether all women, regardless of status, shaved the front of their heads after marriage and whether it was limited to certain ethnic groups.

When I learned about that piece of information, I was simply going to leave it at that but, what actually motivated me to write this post is to show what I believe to be evidence of what Rubruck described. By sheer coincidence, I came across these Yuan Dynasty empress paintings:

Portrait of Empress Dowager Taji Khatun [ᠲᠠᠵᠢ ᠬᠠᠲᠤᠨ, Тажи xатан], also known as Empress Zhaoxian Yuansheng [昭獻元聖皇后] (1262 - 1322) from album of Portraits of Empresses. Artist Unknown. Ink and color on silk, Yuan Dynasty (1260-1368). National Palace Museum in Taipei, Taiwan [image source].

Portrait of Unnamed Imperial Consort from album Portraits of Empresses. Artist Unknown. Ink and color on silk. Yuan Dynasty (1260-1368). National Palace Mueum in Taiper, Taiwan [image source].

Portrait of unnamed wife of Gegeen Khan [ᠭᠡᠭᠡᠨ ᠬᠠᠭᠠᠨ, Гэгээн хаан], also known as Shidibala [ᠰᠢᠳᠡᠪᠠᠯᠠ, 碩德八剌] and Emperor Yingzong of Yuan [英宗皇帝] (1302-1323) from album Portraits of Empresses. Artist Unknown. Ink and color on silk. Yuan Dynasty (1260-1368), early 14th century. National Palace Museum in Taipei, Taiwan [image source].

To me, it’s evident that the hair of those women is shaved at the front. The transparent gauze strip allows us to clearly see their hairstyle. The other Yuan empress portraits have the front part of the head covered, making it impossible to discern which hairstyle they had. I wonder if the transparent gauze was a personal style choice or if it was part of the tradition such that, after shaving the hair, the women had to show that they were now married by showcasing the shaved part.

As shaving or cutting the hair was a practice linked by nomads with transitioning or changing from one state to another (going from being single to married, for example), it would not be a surprise if the women regrew it.

References:

Mongulai. (2018, April 19). Tradition of cutting the hair of the child for the first time.

Celebrating the first hair cutting ceremony is named differently among the Mongols, such as khüükhdiin üs avakh or örövlög ürgeekh the main

Ruysbroeck, W. V. & Giovanni, D. P. D. C., Rockhill, W. W., ed. (1900) The journey of William of Rubruck to the eastern parts of the world, 1253-55, as narrated by himself, with two accounts of the earlier journey of John of Pian de Carpine. Hakluyt Society London. Retrieved from the University of Washington’s Silk Road texts.

William of Rubruck's Account of the Mongols

#mongolia #mongolian #yuan dynasty #mongolian history #chinese history #china #boqta #mongolian traditions #history #gegeen khan #empress dowager taji #mongol empire #William of Rubruck #historical fashion #arga bilig #central asia #central asian culture #mongolian culture #asia

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A lovely modern reproduction of the famed Mongol boqta (bohkta, boqtaq). If you the accounts of non-Mongol authors discussing their encounters with Mongol culture, if they discuss Mongol women, will almost always mention the boqta.

Was the origin of the cone-shaped princess hats of western Europe? I can't say. I've heard the claim several times, but not with evidence to back it up. They certainly share a similar idea and structure, but clothing styles transmitted by cultural exchange is a tough thing to pin down in a medieval context. If anyone has any thoughts or knowkedge on that matter, I'd love to hear it.

#mongol empire #history #boqta #bohkta #clothing #women in mongol empire

Mongolian Women Series by Artist Su Ruya.

Mongolian Noble Women. Su Ruya. Painting, 2017 [image source].

Mongolian Woman No. 9, Mongolia Imagery Series. Su Ruya. Painting, 2002 [image source].

Mongolian Women No. 2, Mongolia Imagery Series. Su Ruya. Painting [image source].

Mongolian Women No. 1, Mongolia Imagery Series. Su Ruya. Painting, 1998. [image source].

Mongolian Woman No. 10, Mongolia Imagery Series. Su Ruya. Painting, 2002 [image source].

Golden Age. Su Ruya. Painting, 2014 [image source].

Mongolian Woman No. 15, Mongolia Imagery Series. Su Ruya. Painting, 2015 [image source].

Mongolian Woman No. 5, Mongolia Imagery Series. Su Ruya. Painting, 2000 [image source].

#mongolia #inner mongolia #chinese art #china #chinese artists #inner mongolian artists #asian art #mongolian fashion #traditional mongolian fashion #su ruya #su ruya artist #painting #art #boqta #gugu hat

For those in Dire need of a Historygasm: The **Full** bibliography for my posts about Boqtas and Hennins

The Karakalpak Sa'wakele (contains further sources)

Theorizing Cross-Cultural Interaction among the Ancient and Early Medieval Mediterranean, Near East and Asia (edited by Matthew P. Canepa)

Women's Hats, Headdresses, and Hairstyles: With 453 Illustrations, Medieval To Modern, Georgine de Courtais (hennins) (turbans)

Medieval Clothing and Costume: Displaying Wealth and Class in Medieval Times, Margaret Scott (tartar/tatar cloth)

Commodity and Exchange in the Mongol Empire: A cultural history of Islamic textiles

A Trader in Tatar Cloth (1350s)

Mongol Elements in Western Medieval Art (wikipedia-soft source)

The Secret History of the Mongol Queens: How the Daughters of Genghis Khan Rescued his Empire, Jack Weatherford

Martial recap of Mongol forces in Europe

Legacy of Mongol Occupation (soft source)

Map of Mongol Occupation/Movements

Omayyad Clothing: In Persia from the Arab Conquest to the Mongol Invasion

ADDITION by asianhistory:

There’s actually records of this in fashion/costume history:

Although Flanders has the reputation of their [hennin’s] introduction, I much suspect their origin to have been Oriental and of great antiquity.

— A Cyclopedia of Costume vol. II a General History of Costume in Europe. pg. 128, c. 1879.

THE REST IS UNDER THE CUT

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J., Cambay and the Bead Trade, Antiquity, Volume 10, Number 39, pages 292 to 305, 1936. Asanova, S. Zh., Saukele, Studies in the History of People's Costume [in Russian], Fashion Academy Symbat, Almaty, 2004. Azarpay, G., Sogdian Painting, University of California Press, Berkeley, 1981. Bardanes, C., Tagebuch über seine Reisen in der Kirgisischen Steppe mit des Herrn Professor Falks [in German], addendum to Beyträge zur topographischen Kenntniss des Russischen Reichs, Volume 1, by Johann Peter Falk, Kaiserl. Academie der Wissenschaften, Saint Petersburg, 1785. Battutah, ibn, The Travels of ibn Battutah, The Hakluyt Society, London, 1958-2000. Benin, V. L., Description of the Culture of the Peoples of Bashkortostan, Kitap, Ufa, 1994. Boyer, M., Mongol Jewellery, Thames and Hudson, London, 1995. Ch'ang Ch'un, K., Si Yu Ki: Travels to the West of K'iu Ch'ang Ch'un, Medieval Researches from Eastern Asiatic Sources, Volume 1, translated by E. Bretschneider, pages 35 to 108, Kegan Paul, Trench, Trubner & Co. Ltd., London, 1887. Clavijo, R. G. de, Embassy to Tamerlane 1403-1406, translated from the Spanish by Guy Le Strange, George Routledge & Sons, Ltd., London, 1928. Davis-Kimball, J., Chieftain or Warrior-Princess? Archaeology, Volume 50, Number 5, September/October 1997. Davis-Kimball, J., Warrior Women, Warner Books, New York, 2002. Davis-Kimball, J., Statuses of Eastern Early Iron Age Nomads, Papers from the EAA Third Annual Meeting at Ravenna 1997, Volume 1, Pre- and Proto-History, pages 142 to 149, Archaeopress, Oxford, 1998. Davis-Kimball, J., Eurasian Warrior Women and Priestesses. Petroglyphic, Funerary, and Textual Evidence for Women of High Status, Center for the Study of Eurasian Nomads, Ventura, CA, 2005. 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A., The Costume of Foreign Embassies and Inhabitants of Samarkand on Wall Painting of the 7th Century in the "Hall of Ambassadors" from Afrasiab as a Historical Source, Transoxiana, Volume 8, University of Salvador, June 2004. Yatsenko, S. A., Late Sogdian Costume (5th to 8th century AD), Webfestschrift Marshak Ērān und Anērān, Studies presented to Boris Illich Marshak on the occasion of his 70th birthday, edited by M. Compareti et al, 2003. Zakharov, I. V., and Khodzhayeva, R. D., Kazakh Head Wear, Traditional Clothing of the Peoples of Central Asia and Kazakhstan, pages 216 to 227, Nauka, Moscow, 1989. Zhdanko, T. A., Material on the Applied Arts of the Karakalpak People [in Russian], Archaeological and Ethnographical Works of the Khorezm Expedition, 1945-1948, Volume 1, pages 559 to 567, Academy of Sciences of the USSR, Moscow, 1952. Zhdanko, T. A., The Ornamental Folk Art of the Karakalpak People [in Russian], Archaeological and Ethnographical Works of the Khorezm Expedition, Volume 3, Materials and Research on Karakalpak Ethnography, pages 373 to 410, Academy of Sciences of the USSR, Moscow, 1958. Zhdanko, T. A., Work of the Karakalpak Ethnographical Force in 1956, Field Studies of the Khorezm Expedition in 1954 – 1956 [in Russian], Publishing House of the Academy of Sciences of the USSR, Moscow, 1959. Zhdanko, T. A., and Esbergenov, Q, Ethnography of the Karakalpaks [in Russian], Fan Publishing, No'kis, 1980.

#History #Mongolian Empire #Mongolia #Hennin #Boqta #headdress #queue