#bijindo

Balmy moments before the rain.

Bijindo, South Korea.

#blessed in Bijindo

For Buddha’s Birthday, we had our first real break from teaching, a sunshiny forecast, and three glorious days of freedom. It was the perfect opportunity to properly celebrate Brendan’s 25th birthday and to explore more of Korea.

Bijindo is part of Hallyeohaesang National Marine Park and is better known for it’s incredible infinity shape. It’s northern and southern islands are connected by a sandbar making it a prime location for gorgeous sunsets and stunning sunrises. Growing up in Southern California, I am a born and bred beach bum water baby. A long weekend on the sand sounded like heaven. But, what made this weekend unforgettable was the company.

I’ve made a habit of making friends by asking for directions since moving to Korea, and the pattern continued in this Korean paradise. His name was Kim ByungJoon, and he showed me the way to a convenience store (really just someone’s home). I thanked him and asked him if he’d have seaweed soup for Buddha’s Birthday. Lame, I know, but I heard that’s what you do here. He responded “You like soup” (I nod) “You have soup. One hour.” I explained I was here with Brendan, and Mr. Kim said he was welcome to join as well.

Dinner, or the “party,” as our hosts referred to it, was spent with eight Korean men mostly in their 60s and 70s. We had seaweed soup, samgyupsal, kimchi, a number of traditional side dishes, and, of course, cold mekju and soju to wash it all down. Mr. Kim acted as our translator and the other men chimed in with what English they knew. They were old friends gathered to check out a property one had bought on the island. They were very savvy campers and seemed well prepared for roughing it in the outdoors.  I had no idea just how hardcore they were until they told us that three of the men at our party had climbed Mt. Everest! (Two of the three climbers being the first and second Koreans EVER to climb Everest!!!) Definitely one of those moments I wish my Korean was better to ask some follow up questions. The jolly man sitting to my left pulled out a book titled “Everest” which had a picture of the men at our table and their excursion team in the 1970s. Brendan and I were floored. I felt unprepared in what I could offer them as a thank you, but the Hershey’s bar I brought for s’mores and a flask full of whiskey would have to do. Sharing is caring, and it’s just the Korean way.

One night with those guys would have been more than enough to make this trip a lifelong memory, but there was a second round. As we came down from our hike to the peak on the southern island, Mr. Kim flagged us down on the beach and said “Kimchi pizza.” (confused) “Last night seaweed soup, tonight kimchi pizza” “Hurry!” So, we headed up to their rooftop campout and sat down for yet another traditional Korean meal with our new best friends. One man wearing a bucket hat repeated most everything he said the night before because he was too drunk. The jolly man to my left insisted we sing “Amazing Grace” and “I Left My Heart in San Fransisco.” We sang, drank, ate kimchi “pizza” (actually more of a delicious pancake), and their catch of the day–about 30 perfectly grilled fresh fish. A bit overwhelmed on how to tackle the whole fish sitting in front of us the man across the table pointed and said “Harmonica.” and motioned how I should eat it. Everything about these guys was classic, and I loved every moment with them.

jongmin with puppy - in Bijindo