#betta acclimation

I Reject Your Reality and Substitute My Own

     Let's pretend for a moment that we're the Mythbusters as we go through this list of common misconceptions about bettas and their care.

    1. Bettas thrive in small bowls and don't need a filter, heater, or plants.

    Ideally, a betta should be placed in a tank that is at least FIVE gallons or more! It's certainly a lot more than what a simple bowl purchased at the pet store would be able to hold. In addition to that, it's essential that the betta also has filtration in the tank as well as a heater. Bettas are a tropical fish, meaning that the temperature of their tank must be maintained at around 76~81 degrees Fahrenheit.   

    Filters, meanwhile, are necessary for assisting with the breakdown of ammonia and nitrite, which can become toxic to fish in general when the concentrations in the tank become too high. They likewise aid in the creation of beneficial bacteria in the tank as the water is circulated continuously. These beneficial bacterium will, as the 'beneficial' part of it suggests, be helpful to your betta and keep them healthier longer. You can think of it in a similar way to when we ingest yogurt, which is filled with beneficial probiotics.

   It's never a bad idea to include some live plants in the tank on top of these other necessities, as bettas often feel most comfortable when they're able to hide themselves amongst foliage. A happy betta is one that will also live longer! There are many varieties of live plants that would be suitable for a betta that can be bought at almost any pet store. The care of aquatic plants, in and of itself, tends to be fairly minimal and they often thrive quite well so long as they're able to get a bit of sunlight.

    2. Bettas do not need to be fed if plants are present in the water.

    In all truth, bettas are fully carnivorous fish, meaning that they do not eat plants as part of their diet. In the wild, bettas most often eat insects that have landed in the water where they reside. Most commonly in our beloved household variety, a pellet form of food or flake will be the most beneficial. It's not a bad thing to, on occasion, give them brine shrimp or bloodworms as a 'treat'. Even fish can enjoy treats from time to time!

    Be wary of over-feeding, however. Over-feeding is a large cause in the death of bettas, as opposed to under-feeding. When feeding pellet foods, it's best to give only two to six pellets per day! With bloodworms and brine shrimp on the other hand, only one or two would be a good amount and this should be done only once a week. A betta's stomach is only about the size of one of its eyes, meaning they can only fit so much in there before it becomes unhealthy for them. If a bulge is beginning to form along the betta's sides, it's time to cut back on the food a bit. Obesity in bettas can have as many health complications as it can for any other living creature.

    3. Bettas thrive in unclean, shallow-water conditions, as their natural environment is dirty mud puddles.

    That's not actually the case at all, in spite of popular misconceptions. The waters that bettas live in aren't actually muddy, but instead are stained a 'muddy' color by plant debris. Further, while it's true that the waters they reside in are indeed shallow, they're also very expansive. Bettas do not live in 'puddles' typically, but in rice paddies and streams that provide a great deal of room for them to live and explore. The ‘dirty puddle’ concept also comes from the knowledge that, during the dry summer months where there’s less water around, bettas will live in shallow puddles as a temporary home until the rains bring back their usual territory. Emphasis on the temporary part!

    With this in mind, it is necessary for you to regularly change the water in your betta's tank. Bettas are highly sensitive to the quality of water they reside in. Should the pH and hardness go off balance, one can anticipate that the fish's fins will begin to deteriorate in response. Bettas’ fins are not particularly well circulated, which makes them prone to bacterial infections. This is all the more likely to happen when left in unclean conditions.

    4. Bettas are inactive fish.

    Contrarily, bettas are actually highly active and highly intelligent fish. In the right conditions, bettas will naturally search about their tank with great curiosity and act very lively. Bettas that are laying down constantly or are inactive are likely too cold, or sick.

A How-To For Caring For Your Betta

    So we've gone over some of the myths that, due to their wide-spread reach amongst people and pet stores, have inadvertently caused more than a few bettas to die earlier than they should've. Was some of it surprising to you? Now that we've cleared up a few of those misconceptions, we can go straight ahead into the best ways to care for your betta.

Picking a Tank and Filter.

     If you're using a bowl or tank under 2.5 gallons currently, now's a good time to bid it adieu! An ideal tank should be between 5 ~ 10 gallons, but a 2.5 gallon tank can be reasoned with to a degree. Generally speaking, the larger the tank, the better it will be for the fish, as it will help negate the harmful effects of ammonia buildup on top of giving the betta plenty of space to explore. The tank you pick should ideally have a filter that isn't too strong, but will still adequately circulate the water throughout the expanse of the tank.

   2. Picking a Heater

    Picking out the perfect heater is less of a trial, as most pet stores will carry heaters that are labeled for a specific gallon range. It can be helpful to use a heater that is pre-set to turn off and on at certain temperatures, as this will ensure that your tank is regularly in the range that is needed for your betta to thrive.

  3. Decorations and Plants

    Bettas love to hide in foliage and anywhere else they can manage to explore! When such an environment is provided for them, they will generally be much happier in their new home, which will likewise help keep them healthier longer. Just like with people!

    Some decorations that are best for bettas include the following:

• Moss balls – Also known as Marimos.

• Floating logs.

• Live aquarium plants.

• A sinking ceramic log.

• A Betta Hammock.

• Gravel for the bottom of the tank.

    It should be noted that when seeking out decorations for your betta, you want to ensure you do not pick out anything that has potentially sharp edges. Decorations containing sharp edges are liable to rip the betta's fins, which leaves them exposed to potential bacterial infections.

    In addition, for the enrichment of your betta's life, it can even be beneficial to sometimes put a ping-pong ball in to float at the surface of the water. The betta will chase after it and entertain itself with the ball, giving it the stimulation that it needs. Bettas are highly intelligent fish and need stimulation from their environment. Without stimulation or things to explore in their tanks, bettas are actually quite prone to becoming depressed – very similar to humans!

Cycling and Introduction to the Tank

    Now that you have an idea of what the tank should look like and what it needs in order to keep your betta happy, you're ready to get everything set up for the introduction of your betta into the new tank.

    Before putting in any decorations, it's important to rinse each piece off – including the gravel – before placing it into the tank for use. This is to help wash off any dust or other debris that might contaminate the tank with unhealthy pollutants. Thereafter, you can put in your gravel and arrange your decorations in whatever fashion seems the most aesthetically appealing to you. Try not to over-crowd the tank with decorations, as the betta still needs space to swim around.

    When adding water to the tank thereafter, it's important to note what kind of water you're using. Tap water contains chemicals, such as chlorine, which will be toxic to your betta even in low quantities. Distilled water, meanwhile, lacks vital minerals that the betta needs in order to survive. The best option to go with is bottled water; although, if this option is unavailable, tap water can be used so long as it's conditioned. Many pet stores sell water conditioner, which will sufficiently remove chlorine and other harmful chemicals from the water.

    Once you've added the water and, if needed, conditioned it, you can begin the process of cycling.

    Cycling is a necessary process with all new aquariums, as they help to establish beneficial bacteria colonies. Without these beneficial bacteria colonies being well established in the tank, it's not unlikely that any fish you buy will end up passing away prematurely from ammonia toxicity. So, before you switch tanks or go out and buy your new betta, it's necessary to do a little prep work beforehand!

    One of the most common cycling methods is to introduce a small bit of fish food to the tank, allowing it to settle at the bottom. Uneaten fish food will cause ammonia levels to spike in the tank, which prompts the growth of beneficial bacteria and starts the cycle off. After a few days, the ammonia levels will begin to decrease as the bacteria eats away at it.

    This, however, creates a byproduct from the bacteria called nitrite, which is also highly toxic to aquatic life. Given a few more days, a secondary colony of beneficial bacteria will begin to grow and break down the nitrites into nitrates, a chemical byproduct that is far less toxic. This process can take several days' time and it's recommended to check the chemical levels in the water before introducing any fish. This is to ensure that the aquarium has finished cycling properly. Most pet stores carry test strips, but for more accurate results it can be good to buy a liquid tester.

    In this method of creating your bacteria colonies, you will want to do a large tank change of about 90% of the water, as rotting food at the bottom of the tank can also create bacteria that is less beneficial in nature. A full water change will help remove this bad bacteria while still retaining the good bacteria colonies previously established.

    Alternative to this method, “seeding” your aquarium is another option for establishing beneficial bacteria colonies. Seeding is typically when you borrow a used filter from another tank and place it into the new tank that doesn't yet have any beneficial bacteria growing in it. As the beneficial bacteria is already present in the filter from the 'donor' tank, it will be able to cycle throughout the tank much faster. In this method, you can introduce your betta immediately to the tank.

    One other commonly recommended method would be to buy aquarium bacteria from the pet store. Bottled bacteria can be stored for about a year and can be used to kick-start your aquarium – but it doesn't necessarily make it safe for you to immediately introduce your betta into the tank. Let it cycle for a day or so and test the water before introducing your fish into the water.

Introducing Your Betta to its’ New Home

    The time has finally come! You can finally introduce your betta to its’ new home, but there's a little bit more to it than just opening up the container it comes in and dumping it on in. In fact, doing that can actually cause a very real problem called shock, which can happen due to sudden temperature changes and differences in water quality. This can make your betta very ill and can be potentially fatal.

    When introducing your betta to its’ tank, it's far better to do it slowly and gradually, rather than all at once. While your betta is still in its bag or container, you'll want to float it at the surface of the tank, allowing it to stay there for 15 ~ 20 minutes; longer if the temperature difference between the water is extreme. This is to assist in acclimating the betta to the temperature of the water gradually, as the water surrounding the bag or cup will slowly warm the water inside.

    Once acclimated to the temperature of the tank, it's then time to begin gradually introducing water into the bag or cup to begin acclimating to the tank's pH level. In intervals of about five minutes, add a small amount of the aquarium water to the betta's water. Repeat this process until the bag or cup is full, wait another five minutes, and then allow your betta to swim free! At this point, you've successfully set up and acclimated your betta into its’ new, roomy and comfortable habitat!

Sources:

Why Betta Bowls are Bad

Bettas Need More Than Bowls

How to Take Care of Your Betta

How Often Do You Need to Feed a Betta Fish?

Tiny Mud Puddles and Other Lies

Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle and Cycling a Fish Tank

Top Ten Betta Toys

Do Betta Fish Get Depressed?

Betta Fish Acclimation

How Bettas Handle Temperature Flunctuation

New Arrival Acclimation Guide

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