#bar chuko

I don't usually go out of my way for Ramen, but I like it when it's good.  Toothsome pulled noodles in a rich broth with hearty protein and greens, and maybe a poached egg make for a very satisfying and comforting meal.  Given the popularity of Japanese Ramen noodles and their relatively low price point, the places that do Ramen well are tend to be packed with enthusiasts at peak hours. 

I love going to Ippudo, but only at off times such as late afternoon or just before closing, as I have never met a bowl of noodles that is worth waiting hours for.  I applied the same principle to my visit to CHUKO in Prospect Heights, Brooklyn.  I had no expectations of this place, but passed through one rainy afternoon to find much more than I bargained for. 

My first impression was that the decor was a less successful reappropriation of Momofuku Noodle Bar's design sensibility. Blonde wood with a mix of tables and bar seating and a sleek, modern look, but less interesting and more ordinary than David Chang's East Village flagship. Truthfully, as much as I love Momofuku, I rarely order the ramen there in favor of Chang's creatively crafted small plates that change daily.  Chang's ramen is very good, albeit a bit salty for my liking, but I'd rather spend my time there devouring roasted rice cakes and pork buns as well as the latest seafood or offal focused creation du jour. 

Once I got past the Momo-faux-ku decor and made my selections from the concise and appealing menu, I kept my eyes only on the food that was set before me.  Based on my experience with the Shrimp Bun, I would be excited to try any bun that comes out of this kitchen.  If shrimp buns are your thing, look no further than Chuko, as this one blows away both the Momofuku and Ippudo versions.

But the main event here is the ramen.  While I'm not generally a fan of what we have come to know as Miso soup, I opted for the Miso based Ramen as opposed to the Soy or Kimchi based alternatives. This broth was so rich and delicious that as deep as my bowl was I did not want it to ever end.  With low expectations from my choice to go with the vegetarian option over the undoubtedly heartier pork based version, I was astounded by how deeply flavorful this soup was.  With perfectly cooked noodles and a wide assortment of market vegetables, this bowl of ramen may be the best thing $13 has bought me to eat all year.  Word on the street is that the Pork Bone ramen special is outstanding, and it beckons my return.  I learned after the fact, as I am sharing it, that Chuko is the brainchild of three self proclaimed ramen "geeks" who hail from the kitchen of Morimoto.  These guys mean business.  They recently announced the future opening of BAR CHUKO across the street, which will be an Izakaya featuring yakitori, small plates and cocktails.

So now you know what to do next time you are an hour along on your three hour wait to be seated at Ippudo.  Jump on the subway and head for Prospect Heights.  You can probably get to Chuko, eat, and get back to Ippudo before your name is called.  Although the word is out on Chuko, and the wait time for dinner is beginning to rival its downtown Manhattan counterparts.  Get on the train and pay Chuko a visit anyway.  One could make the argument that the ramen is actually better.