#backpacing

         There is               NOTHING                                                    more ANGER                                                                                            Inducing

Than being ripped off on your own abilities. This was a series of four artworks I completed in New Delhi, India in 2008.

The job opportunity came out of some interactions I had with a very well…

Backcountry camping in the San Ysidro Trials Area, BLM

San Ysidro, New Mexico

Transportation

Everything is so easy in Thailand. Tourism is a major income source for the country so that it may be easier to book a bus in Thailand than in Paris! We tried pretty much all means of transportation while in the country and here is what we found.

Busses are convenient and rather cheap but can take quite a while (we’re still in South East Asia so don’t expect too much). Also, about 96.85 % of the drivers are completely insane (no offence). Thailand is one of the countries with the most deaths per 1000 inhabitants in the world and there is a reason. You’ll find loads of different companies offering bus journeys and sometimes joint bus and ferry tickets to get to the islands. Do your research before booking a bus and you’ll be fine.

If you want to travel to the islands in the south, Lomprayah is a safe bet. Not only are their ferries much more comfortable (and free of sand flees) but their busses are safe and comfy as well.

Trains are a good option as well though they often take much longer than busses. They are pretty much delayed all the time but it is a fun experience to sit with the locals and drive through the country. Prices vary quite a bit depending on the type of train and compartment (AC, 3rd Class, Sleeper, etc.).

For instance, Bangkok - Ayutthaja costs about 20 THB while we paid 180 THB for Bangkok - Phetchaburi.

Flights are relatively cheap within the country (if you’re visiting outside of the high season). Companies such as ThaiLionAir, AirAsia and even ThaiAirways have pretty cheap flights serving major tourist destinations. One-way tickets to Chiang Mai, Surat Thani (gateway to Koh Samui, Koh Phangan and Koh Tao) or Krabi go for as little as 20€! Unfortunately, many airlines don’t include baggage but it’s still worth looking into (especially if you can avoid a 15h train ride at the same cost.

At first glance, certain destinations can seem to be expensive to fly to but look out for other airports nearby, they may be cheaper! For instance, flying to Koh Samui from Bangkok costs around 200€ but flying to Surat Thani and taking the ferry will only cost around 30 to 40€.

Ferries are a real backpacker’s nightmare. You experience that paradisiacal islands in the south of Thailand you have no choice but to take a ferry and they are expensive. Like really, really expensive. We recommend not booking them in advance unless you are on a really tight schedule. Just book them on the spot, it will probably be cheaper.

As in most other countries in Southeast Asia, you don’t have to worry about booking transportation in advance. Booking on the spot for the next day or even later that same afternoon is completely fine unless you find yourself travelling during peak season. Obviously, this doesn’t count for flights. It might be useful to book those a little in advance.

Accommodation

Thailand certainly is the most touristic country in Asia. In terms of accommodation that means that you’ve got plenty to choose from. Depending on where you’re going you can find dorms between 3 and 20€ and private rooms from around 7€ to open end. The north is generally less expensive than the south and the islands are the most expensive you’ll find. Dorms are good value for money if you’re travelling alone but as a couple, it was often cheaper to get a private room.

Thailand is one of those countries where booking ahead can be quite useful as you might strike a good deal on agoda.com or booking.com. Once on Koh Tao we booked a room through a website for half the walk-in price! Most guesthouses and hostels have free tea and coffee and if you’re lucky you’ll find one that includes breakfast as well though it isn’t as common as we’d like.

Especially the south of the country is quite expensive and not as backpacker-friendly as everyone thinks in terms of budget (think about 14€ we paid for a crappy bungalow on Koh Lipe 20 minutes walk from the beach vs. 8€ we paid for a private room on Koh Rong in Cambodia 30m off the beach). As in many other countries in Asia, simple fan rooms are cheaper than those with AC but unless you are travelling throughout April or May (the hottest months in Thailand with temperatures of over 40°C), a fan is completely sufficient.

We were lucky enough to stay clear of any bad experiences. Our hosts were all adorable and the places we stayed at were all great. The advantage of mass tourism is that you can find hundreds of reviews and recommendations online - USE IT! Some of our favourite places were :

Mayom Hostel (Phetchaburi)

Ozone Beach Huts (Koh Lanta)

ZzHouse (Chiang Mai)

Food

Aaaaah, the food. Thai food is amazing. In variety, it probably beats even Indian food and the flavours range from coconut-sweet to shrimp-salted. Obviously, you’ve heard about the famous Pad Thai and the curries but that’s not all there is. Papaya salads, spicy mango salads or seafood salads are a must try, the savoury soups shouldn’t be missed and don’t get me started on the dessert (oh, mango sticky rice!).

As always, you’ll find the best food in the streets. Food stalls or tiny walk-in restaurants are just the best places to get authentic (meaning spicy) Thai food.

Snacks or meals at street stalls or little street restaurants usually start at 20 THB and go up to 70 THB depending on quantity and ingredients (remember, seafood is expensive). At sit-in restaurants you can expect to pay between 100 and 180 THB for a rice and curry, 60 to 120 THB for a Pad Thai or other noodle dishes and an incredibly exaggerated 80 to 100 THB for a mango sticky rice.

To fully enjoy the variety of Thai cuisine you should take a cooking class! Even kitchen grumps (like Ann) can have fun tasting all the different dishes and exploring the local market where you’ll get all the ingredients from.

The local beers are Chang, Leo and Singha which are all classic lagers. We were surprised to find that alcohol is actually quite expensive in Thailand compared to its neighbours (bye bye, 50ct beers on Pub Street! ;) ) but it’s still affordable and cheaper than in many places back home (meaning Paris cause Berlin’s awesome).

All in all, eating was one of our favourite activities in Thailand and now, maybe, you understand why. If we had to make a ranking about who’s got the best food, the Thais are definitely among the top 3. And we’ve had a lot of food. In quite a few different countries.

Cost of living

The cost of living in Thailand really depends on your location. The north is cheaper than the south, major touristic cities are more expensive than lesser known places. In Phetchaburi we easily lived of 20€ a day as we could get meals for under 50 THB at the local food court while on some of the islands we paid almost 30 THB just for a bottle of water!

There are always ways to keep the cost of living down so have coffee at your hostel or at 7-11 because they’re not only cheap but actually really good (especially the Thai Milk Tea!), get sandwiches from there (best cheap breakfast you’ll find) and if you can, just sleep there as well. Just kidding.

Food prices vary a lot but veggie dishes are always the cheapest. Fried rice / noddles with vegetables or a veggie Pad Thai will almost always be the cheapest choice. Chicken is also very affordable and sometimes at the same price but beef and especially sea food is often much more expensive.

A big beer will usually lighten your wallet by 80 to 120 THB if it’s not happy hours (then it’s more like 60 to 80 THB). Cocktails can be found for 80 to 200 THB depending on the establishment, size, etc. . Thank god, 7-11 (saved my life) has beer and wine at cheaper rates so for those who travel on a budget, this might just be the solution.

People

At times it seems as if there were more tourists and expats in Thailand than locals. While people in Myanmar or in Indonesia (outside of Bali and the Gilis) will look at you in awe and will somehow try to communicate while proudly talking about their country, a great majority of Thais will mainly talk to you in order to sell you something.

Mass tourism has taken over so many parts of the country that it can be difficult to have an “authentic” experience. The one time we managed to get off the beaten track we noticed a huge change in the way locals treated us. In Phetchaburi people came to say hello and to ask where we were from whereas in Chiang Mai they just wanted us to get a massage at their spa.

No matter where you go, people are extremely polite and helpful but they have grown accustomed to foreigners in most places and have simultaneously lost the interest of just talking to strangers in order to share insights on their life and culture. Obviously, this isn’t the case for all people and you will always find locals to chat to but compared to countries such as Vietnam or Indonesia, people in Thailand are less excited upon the sight of a foreigner (which is understandable as they must see millions of tourists every year).

Budget

As mentioned earlier, the cost of living and therefore the daily budget varies a lot between the north and the islands (let’s be honest, why else would you got to the south?). In over 7 weeks in Thailand we managed to stick to our budget of 40€ per day for two people but at times it was incredibly difficult and we had to pass on a lot of activities (and drinks).

In the north and places such as Phetchaburi, 40€ per day for two is totally doable and a realistic budget for budget travellers like us. On the islands or in peak season a realistic budget would be closer to 50 - 70€ depending on what you want to do and if you’re willing to do it independently. Day trips and organised tours will generally let your budget go through the roof so it is worth making an effort to do it by yourself.

On a side note, this “life budget” does not include the money we spent on diving (which is a lot). It just includes what we spent on accommodation, food, transports and visits.

Thanks to our budgeting app ExpenseTrack we always have an eye on our daily budget and it was quite easy to limit ourselves when needed. With so much street food available and 7-11s on every corner it is really easy to get by on a tight budget. Only a few euros left for the day? Just grab some street food and save some Baht!

What we thought about Thailand

We spent quite a lot of time in Thailand but still only managed to see a small part of the country. There are so many beautiful things to see and while, at times, the crowds can be annoying, it is definitely worth it. Between the temples, the beaches, the caves and the food, there is an excuse for everybody to visit Thailand.

But we’re not going to dwell on how beautiful the country is, otherwise it wouldn’t be such a popular holiday destination.

We were surprised that alcohol and accommodation can be so expensive and looking back considering that it is hyped for being so cheap.

Also, we do regret not having explored more destinations that are still off the tourist radar.

Anyway, we definitely enjoyed Thailand and made a ton of unforgettable memories!