#ayaf

After a Nutella and toast breakfast at the Parish hall, Saturdaymorning started off with a presentation from a woman from the Family Planning Department. Her lecture was oriented around the question, “Why and how does geography, culture, class, history, gender, and ethnicity matter to our future aspirations and outcomes?” We broke out into groups and brainstormed our responses.

In our group, we really focused on the differences in Northern and Southern cultures in the ways of education and mental health. We discussed familial support, and talked about how in both Northern and Southern families, education was encouraged, however the methods used to encourage education is much different. In the North, there is a larger focus on community, culture, and family, and therefore education that allows one to stay in their community is favoured. In the South, there is a large focus on independence, with students encouraged to “leave the nest” and move away for their university experience.

We ate lunch in the parish hall after our brainstorming session. Then, we were put into groups, for Amazing Race Iqaluit.

Amazing Race Iqaluit was a test of speed, knowledge, and creativity.  This challenge had us running across the City of Iqaluit to answer geographical, trivial, and fun questions. One of the prompts asked our group, consisting of Stephen, Evan, Mila, Diane, and myself, to make an Inukshuk. As you can imagine, every single rock in Iqaluit is covered in snow. We were forced to use our imagination, and found Tim Horton’s cups littered in a snow bank to create ours.  

The final challenge was to show up to the Soup Kitchen to help make dinner. We were extremely confident we were the first team done, however it turned out we were last. We helped prepare a turkey dinner; I myself helped with salad. I also acted as referee when two JTC ambassadors wanted to race to see who could peel carrots faster (Kathleen vs. Ian, Ian won).

Once dinner was prepared, we wandered next door to the thrift shop. I found a very comfortable patterned men’s cardigan ($3), and Mila found a book. We headed back to the hotel for a quick nap before dinner. Dinner was at the Hotel Arctic; I ordered Char and Chips before heading to North Mart to buy a nut-free dinner with Mila.

The entire group headed to the high school, which is up on a hill, to try to get a picture with the Lights behind us. Unfortunately, we didn’t see any lights, but we did make great use of my selfie stick.

It was so hard to get out of bed on Friday. The Hotel Arctichas phenomenally warm duvets, plus looking outside to a snow bank made wakingup look that much less appealing.

Friday Morning, Mila and I made our way to the Parish hall, which is where Global Vision held all of its activities for the duration of our trip. There, we had breakfast together, and everyone was able to get to know one another.

The first presentation we saw was by J. Shirley from the Nunavut Research Institute, who spoke about Climate Change, and impacts seen in the North.

 Next, we heard from Sara Statham from the Nunavut Food Security Coalition. She spoke about Food Security. Food security is a threat to the wellbeing of Inuit communities. 70% of the community is considered to be food insecure, which is characterized as “when all people, at all times, have physical and economic access to sufficient, safe, an nutritious food to meet their dietary needs and food preferences for an active and healthy life”. This issue is multifaceted and difficult to confront, and is even further proved by Global Vision flying in 11 boxes of food, as it is significantly cheaper than buying locally. It is very interesting to see the issues presented with culture, for example the nutritional, cost, and availability issues presented balancing country food (caribou, polar bear - food from the land) with store-bought food.

Locals visited during the lunch hour, and we were able to discuss and share our experiences from the trip, and able to talk about the treasures of Iqaluit, such as Arctic Foods, where I hope to grab some treats for my family.

After lunch, we bundled up and trekked back, past the hotel, to the Nunavut Legislature. There, we were able to learn more about the creation of the territory (very admirably done completely peacefully), and we also had a chance to speak with the Honourable Paul Quassa, Minister of Education. This opportunity really opened my eyes to the disparity and weakness of the Nunavut Education system, as well as the total and complete lack of accountability and transparency, which I will touch on in a separate post. 

After this, we had free time, where Mila and I decided to head to North Mart to buy water - several had recommended this to us. On our way back, we decided to climb a small hill back to the Parish hall. Climbing up the small icy ledge, Mila slipped, almost landed on her face, however I caught her just in time. Just after standing up, she stepped forward, and her foot went right through the ice ledge and into a pile of water (according to Google Maps, a small stream runs right through the town where we were, so I imagine as it ran down the hill, it remained unfrozen, and very welcome to any unexpected passer-by). As any good Canadian would do, I lent Mila my dry long johns. 

For dinner, we had macaroni and hot dogs. Over the meal, I spoke to Iqaluit students about the changes they wish to see in their education system, and what they perceived to be the biggest challenges. One thing that shocked me is that despite Grade 12 biology being taught for over 10 years, they only received textbooks this past year. Calculus isn’t even offered as a course – humbling, as I have been complaining about the difficulty of an educational opportunity not even offered to these students. They also expressed a concern in familial support, explaining that often the students struggling in school do not have a family that openly supports or encourages education. It is undeniably difficult for Northern students to graduate due to a variety of factors, and in one community, just 2/70 students graduated this past year.

After dinner, several Northern students sang and played guitar for us (introducing me to the Jerry Cans, who's album I later bought off iTunes), and in turn Mila played as well.  A group of us, both Northern and Southern, spent some time together that night and discussed the issues we had discussed that day.

Thursday, March 19th: It was a smooth landing at the YFB (one of the longestrunways in Canada, at over 9000 feet), we headed to the hotel by cab. To take acab anywhere in Iqaluit costs just $7 a person, no matter where you’re headed. As well, locals do not refer to places with street names, just by numbers. Our hotel, Hotel Arctic, is not referred to as 953 Federal Road, but rather 953.

After checking into the hotel, a small group of us decided to explore Iqaluit. We stopped by the Visitors Centre, and picked up maps. The gentleman working there told us about the best places to view the Northern Lights (which Mila explained is caused by solar flares exciting electrons in magnetic fields). We visited a local art museum, which had such beautiful prints, clothing, and carvings. The group then travelled to the “beach”. We walked onto the ice, however being exposed to the wind off the bay was something none of us were prepared for, and we returned to exploring the town. Afterwards, we stopped by North Mart, which is sort of a Northern Wal-Mart. The prices were outrageous. Prices didn’t vary too much in the ways of produce; everything was about $1 to $3 more than expected than down South. What really shocked me is the price of a 24 pack of canned pop…. $35. Diapers? An 84 pack is $57. And you can forget about school supplies, a pack of 150 lined paper sheets is $5.

Then, we headed to the Snack. This is a small diner-like restaurant (spaghetti - $22). I ordered chicken nuggets, for the price of $11, and received what could be considered equivalent in size to a 6 pack of Chicken McNuggets. At this point, I realized the severity and challenge of food security in the North, and was really looking forward to learning about the topic more on Friday.

At 5:30, everybody met in the lobby of the hotel before heading to the Parish hall. The Hall was emptying from a Mayor’s meeting, so I was able to try left over catered food. I found Arctic Char to be very similar to salmon, only with a thicker texture, and slightly more “wintery” taste. We met our Northern counterparts. I was introduced to Hope, a high school student from Iqaluit. She is a member of her student council, and I very much look forward to discussing education, and the operational and functional differences between Northern and Southern student groups with her. We were divided into teams, which will be the group with which we hold our roundtable discussions. Our team, Team 3, renamed ourselves to be “Three Infinity and Beyond!”. We had dinner in our group, which was delicious pasta, garlic bread, and Caesar salad.

Becky Kilabuk spoke to us after dinner about Inuit culture and heritage. I found her to be so inspiring, and I sure learned a lot about Inuit values. She is the one who provided the (very true) title of this post. Becky is a self-taught master throat singer. I had never really understood this talent, however after hearing Becky and her friend sing together, I absolutely understand the draw of throat singing. Throat singing began as a way for mothers to sing lullabies to their young children as they hung in baby-sized hoods on their back. I learned throat singing, the most complex form of human vocalization, creates vibrations throughout the chest, which can be relaxing for the infant, just like a lullaby. I think it is so interesting that in most parts of Canada, wearing a child on one’s back is so uncommon, while in Northern Canada, and many other cultures in the world, it is completely normal.

Next, Johnny Awesome shared the Arctic games with us. Arctic games are a series of unconventional competitions that test and train for skills necessary to sustain the Northern hunting practices. Most of the activities focus on agility or strength, both of which are absolutely necessary when chasing animals, or when carrying that 200lb caribou back to wherever it needs to be! Johnny shared stories with us, and I really admire the way he is able to share the values of his culture with so many people through Arctic games.

Between Becky and Johnny’s presentations, I really was made aware of how deeply ingrained Inuit culture is in their lifestyle. It blows my mind how such strong traditions are passed for thousands of years through a now changing nomadic society.

Heading back to the hotel, we experienced the Northern Lights for the first time. We were in the town, so it was very difficult to focus on the sky through the lighting of the streets.  We were SO ecstatic to have seen the green lights in the sky.

Mila and I then headed back to the hotel. I started writing up the blog posts about yesterday, and she worked on finishing a novel (she tried explaining the plot, it was something about dragons).

Overall, I am so happy and grateful to have the opportunity to immerse myself in Inuit culture. The locals are so kind, and I am always asking for recommendations for places to visit. I hope to stop by Arctic Char to see if I can try foods I have never had before.

We had free time until our plane ride, so after having a fantastic chance to sleep in, my friends and I walked around town to buy some frozen smoked Arctic char as presents to our sponsors. We took some final pictures before leaving Nunavut. We finished packing our bags, and then walked to the airport. We checked our bags, went through security, and was on our flight back.