#aussieingermany

After a year in the Northern Hemisphere it was time to head Down Under for some fun in the sun. We spent a whirlwind two weeks visiting family and friends, sipping countless coffees and getting our Vitamin D hit at the beach. The trip was too short, but it was great to be able to catch up with so many people. The highlight being able to celebrate the wedding of our friends down the South Coast in the beautiful coastal town of Merimbula. Even if we were suffering some serious jet lag during the reception.

Back in Sydney we played tourist in our own city and took a quick dip at Bondi, followed up with a coastal walk to Tamarama and some poached eggs for brunch. In the evening, we headed to some old favourites in Newtown and got dinner and a show when some glittery drag queens took to the stage. We explored the new and improved Barangaroo later in the week and caught a ferry to Kiribilli to see that iconic Sydney view.

Three days in my hometown of Port Macquarie wasn‘t long enough. I took advantage of the jet lag and got up early for a run to the beach to catch the sunrise. After a long winter in Germany it was nice to have toes in the sand and to float in warm, salty water. At my request my family spoiled me with a lamb roast, another thing I‘ve been missing lately in Germany.

Just to rush our trip even more we spent 48 hours in Melbourne. In true Melbourne style we had burgers and mac ‘n’ cheese tots in a train carriage on a rooftop but the best part was catching up with friends, both human and doggy.

We packed the usual Down Under suspects into a classy but practical Mercedes minivan and headed off on our road trip before the sun was up to say “Hello”. The further we drove from Munich the whiter the fields around us and soon we were winding between mountains dusted with icing sugar. We arrived in Cortina D’Ampezzo about 5 hours later.

By early afternoon we were ready to hit the slopes. Team advanced beginner decided to take it easy and started with a wide and flat blue slope. The others headed to god knows where for some cheap thrills. Later in the afternoon the fog lifted but clung to the top of the mountains. Dramatic sheer rock faces were now visible and peeking through the snow above the tree line. None of us were too familiar with geology and so we googled the rock type. Of course, it’s dolomite!

Days 2, 3 and 4 were sunny but cold. The temperature dropping to a fresh -15 °C. The only way to survive was to tuck our our neck warmers into our goggles. Now that we were looking ski-chic we had new-found confidence (or maybe it was the lesson) and explored some new slopes.

In the afternoon we stopped for a glühwein (mulled wine) and a radler (a shandy) and perched ourselves at a big table in the sun. From here we had the perfect view of the spectacular mountain ranges surrounding us. We peeled our eyes away from the view to complete the last few runs for the day.

After spending all day skiing we spent our evenings eating too much pizza and pasta and indulging with some wine and dessert. We attempted to experience the nightlife in town but we were quickly discouraged when the only club was empty, had a distinct smell and sticky floors reminiscent of uni bars. We all fell asleep abnormally early but were up in time to be first at our amazing buffet breakfast. It was worth it to head up freshly groomed slopes that were practically empty.

On our last day we explored new slopes at Lagazuoi and Cinque Torri. We had lunch outside at a hut overlooking the latter. The 5 towering rocks were beautiful and as the sunlight hit the snow it sparkled. The only downside, that it was too cold to eat my pasta without ski gloves on.

We entered the new year staring up at fireworks twinkling over Edinburgh castle. It was a little colder than counting down on Sydney Harbour but nothing gloves and a scarf couldn’t handle. As the sky flashed, popped and fizzed we thought about all the travels and adventures we’d had in 2017 and made unrealistic plans for the year ahead.

We had a surprisingly cheap New Years as the street party organisers somehow allowed us to BYO drinks into the crowded event. However, we got a little more than we bargained for with a complimentary mosh pit trying to make it to the toilet.

On New Years Day after all hangovers had worn off we took a tour inside the medieval castle. We learnt a little bit of history but most importantly all about William Wallace and the factual accuracy of Braveheart. From the western side of the castle we had a view over the city and in the distance we got a glimpse of the sea. The sun was setting and it was beautiful except for the biting cold wind and the dreary on and off rain. I couldn’t understand why anyone would want to wear a kilt in this weather!

After leaving the castle we wandered down the Royal Mile in search of a pub for a hearty dinner. Instead we were bombarded with tartan in every conceivable form. Unlucky for us our own clan tartan was no where to be seen.

The pubs were crowded and we wandered down the picturesque West Bow (the street which inspired J.K Rowling’s Diagon Alley) and down into Grassmarket square below. Here we found a cosy pub with one table waiting for us. I was quick to order a hearty steak pie after spending a few hours outside in the wind and rain.

It was hard to say goodbye to Edinburgh, to old friends, and to consider the fact that I was straight back to work the following day.

“If ye like the nut, crack it” – Old Scots proverb

I retreated to the UK (and Ireland) to speak the Queen’s English for Christmas and New Years. I was especially excited for traditional pub food and to be more specific I really wanted a good pie. The pie gods delivered and I devoured a total of five pies in about 10 days. Note to self: make pie related new year’s resolution in 2019.

We started our trip off in London and made the most of our central location in Holborn. Our first stop on the tube was St Paul’s. From here we walked to the Thames and crossed the Millenium Bridge. Luckily no Death Eaters (Harry Potter reference) were in sight and we made it to the Tate Modern for a bit of art.

On Christmas Day with the tube out of action we decided to pre-emptively walk off lunch. We walked east and sipped hot chocolates from Pret a Manger overlooking the Tower of London and crossed the Tower Bridge. We had Christmas lunch at Anchor Bankside a hearty pub on the south side of the river near Shakespeare’s Globe. Here we enjoyed turkey and roast veggies and sipped glasses of champagne. We pulled crackers and wore silly paper crowns like we would Down Under. The only difference was that our long sleeves weren’t rashies for sun protection but down filled jackets to keep the cold out. After lunch we retreated to our cosy little apartment to watch Christmas movies for the night and rub our very full bellies.

On Boxing Day we enjoyed a solid brunch and good coffee and then explored Westminster, Kensington and the busy shopping areas of London. The sun was out and it was great to walk through beautiful gardens where squirrels were hyperactively chasing each other through the trees.

The following day we flew to Dublin. Our first stop (after coffee) a whisky tasting, where we learnt all about why Irish Whisky is better than Scottish Scotch. Afterwards we sipped hot toddys, ate soup with soda bread and listened to classic rock covers in the lively pubs in Temple Bar.

While in Dublin we took the train about 30 minutes to the coastal town of Dalkey. Here we wandered through tiny village streets with stone walls and quaint cottages (some more like mansions). The narrow streets eventually opened up to the coastline and we could see a little private deserted island just offshore. It was now about 3 pm and the sun sat low in the purple and pink tinged sky. We stood here for a minute taking in our surroundings before climbing another hill and into an overgrown park at the top of the headland. Here we had the perfect view of the wild coastline to the South sprinkled with tiny villages and far off in the distance some mountains frosted with snow. This really inspired me to consider planning a road trip through Ireland in the future.

Back in Dublin for dinner we took ourselves to see some traditional Irish folk music. Here we were blessed with the Irish bag pipe and piano accordions, but unfortunately no Irish flutes were playing the soundtrack to Titanic. However, the music was well accompanied by creamy glasses of Guinness, which were much better in their home town. The only thing we missed out on was some fun Celtic dancing but we’ll save that for the next time we’re in Ireland.

Like JFK was sold on Berlin (and doughnuts) I’m sold on Hamburg and hamburgers. It was a wet, windy and cold weekend but we found some good places to shelter from the weather and to get a good feel for the city. Uber early on Saturday morning we took the intercity express from Munich to Hamburg Hauptbahnhof, which took about 6 hours. A little longer than taking a plane but the advantage was that we arrived right in the middle of the city and only a few hundred metres from our hostel. We dropped off our luggage and made sure to be dressed for the occasion in fluffy winter boots, gloves, scarves and hoods before heading out to explore the city.

We wandered towards Jungfernstieg and the Inner Alster the smaller of two lakes in the city. The lakes were created as early as the 13th century by damming the little Alster river. Here the lake was lined with little huts setting up for Christmas markets and department stores were framed with Christmas lights. The footpaths were wide and the pedestrians were rushing about like locals unlike visiting Marienplatz in Munich on a Saturday at midday.

We decided to make a first pit stop to refuel and defrost with some coffee, which I accompanied with a delicious pastel de nata (Portuguese egg tart). Once we felt strong enough we ventured out again. This time towards the St. Nikolai Memorial - a Gothic Revival church that was bombed during the second world war with only the spire still standing. We paid the 5 euro to take the lift 76 m up the spire and got a view over the city. The sun came out at an opportune moment and we could see the port in the distance, the striking silhouette of the new Elbphilharmonie, the UFOs stacked on Hamburg’s tv tower and below us the Rathaus (town hall).

In the afternoon we wandered towards the warehouse district of Speicherstadt and the new Hafencity, crossing canals over wooden bridges and platforms. The wind picked up and the last bit of sun disappeared as we neared the harbour. I was grateful for winter boots but wishing my gloves were a little bit thicker. In the distance, we could see the wave-like Elbphilharmonie now lit up and we decided to walk closer to inspect it. To celebrate the theatre opening earlier this year we were granted free entry to the plaza level and took the opportunity to walk the terrace that wraps around the building. From here we got an awesome view of Hamburg and the port at night.

All this exploring and probably the cold weather had made us hungry again and by chance, we found an inviting Greek restaurant nearby. The restaurant was large but the space fully utilised with a well-stocked central bar lit with neon orange undershelf lighting. Downstairs we caught a glimpse of a wine cellar, which prompted me to order a glass of red wine. A friendly waiter served us complimentary taramasalata and soft bread, allowed us to practice bad German and obliged us our very Australian free tap water request. We ordered shared plates of hummus, pimientos, a poached egg and feta salad with filo pastry and the main event calamari from the grill. And to finish all four of us (to prevent food envy) ordered a rich mousse au chocolat. The menu ‘boasted food created by the gods’ and I was not disappointed.

To walk off our dinner we waddled towards the notorious red light district of Reeperbahn. Here we found a Christmas market in full swing. Featuring a heater hanging above our heads like a short-circuiting powerline. We struggled to walk through the crowds and decided against the line for glühhwein. Instead, we thought we’d enjoy the seedy streets. 

The main street was lit up like the strip in Las Vegas and bars were competing with loud music and girls offering discounted drinks at the door. A multitude of women stood along the street wearing puffy jackets, leggings and bright sparkly ugg boots. I was happy to see them dressed for the weather but sad to see some of them chase after men brave enough to venture the streets alone. While the boys checked out the men's only street, Herbertstraße, (which apparently featured women in windows like in Amsterdam) the girls waited patiently on the street. Hoping to not be mistaken for the working girls.

In the morning we went in search of good coffee and we found it at Nord Coast Coffee Roastery. We were seated at a long wooden bench table right by a window overlooking a canal and old Tudor style buildings. The perfect scene to enjoy a coffee and some breakfast. I chose a medium blend coffee aptly named Black Opium. Proving as addictive as opium I ordered a second with my breakfast, mini banana pancakes with a lime mascarpone, maple syrup and fruit. Köstlich!

Now ready for the day we caught a ferry to Dockland and walked up the staircases on top of the angular building to the observation deck. From here we could really appreciate the size of the port and the industry surrounding it. We didn’t last too long in the cold and wind and hurried down the stairs, heading in the direction of the fish markets. The markets were well and truly over by the time we arrived. Instead of markets we were met with street sweepers and flocks of seagulls both trying desperately to clean up.

We couldn’t visit Hamburg and not eat Hamburgers so for lunch we visited Otto’s Burgers in Sternschanze. I devoured a veggie burger made with the juiciest mushroom and some cheesy chipotle and guacamole fries. Afterwards, we hoped to check out more of the suburb and in particular street art. Unfortunately, the rain set in and so our tour was cut a little short.

Our last major stop in Hamburg was at the Minatur Wunderland. The largest model railway in the world and a definite highlight of the trip. The model spans multiple countries. In Switzerland, you’ll find the Matterhorn, ski fields, and a working Lindt chocolate factory. In Italy the Vatican, the Colosseum, and Vesuvius. Knuffingen airport runs day and night with planes taking off and landing. The model of Cinque Terre even gave me some inspiration for future travels!

When my German friends and colleagues ask me what food is typically Australian I generally respond with “Brunch!” My answer often gets some pretty puzzled looks. Of course, Germany has breakfast and brunch…but they just don’t do it Aussie style.

As my Aussie friends know, Australian cities and towns are absolutely packed with breakfast and brunch options. Sydney doesn’t disappoint with green smoothies on the go, acai bowls by the beach, eggs benedicts in the city, breakfast burgers in the burbs and pancakes for those who like it sweet. We wash it all down with world class coffee and the odd matcha latte.

Europe feels a little newer to the brunch game. Maybe they hibernate in the morning to avoid the cold weather. Don’t get me wrong we’ve found some awesome spots for early breakfast and long brunches on our travels. However, Munich seems to be a little bit of a late bloomer with everyone appreciating a good sleep in and opting for croissants and machine coffee from bakeries. Most places don’t open till 10 or 10.30 in the morning for breakfast, which would be a rare occurrence for a beach side café in Australia.

When we aren’t jet setting for a long weekend or enjoying the German nightlife a little too hard we set out in search of new breakfast and brunch haunts. As I’ve been here for over 8 months now I thought I’d give you a couple of my top picks so far.

LAX Eatery is the closest thing you’ll find to an Aussie cafe. As the name suggests it’s based on the breakfast menus you would find in Los Angeles and it won’t disappoint. If you like your breakfast sweet you’ll find awesome pancakes and the undisputed best French toast in Munich. If you like to start your day with healthy fats than order avocado toast topped with a fried egg and sprinkled with chili salt. Breakfast burritos, acai bowls, overnight oats and banana bread are also featured on the menu. As you can imagine we are regulars here!

For a more traditional German breakfast and a cult favourite in Munich head to Cotidianos. My favourite thing here is the alps breakfast – a lye croissant (like a baked pretzel on the outside but croissant on the inside) stuffed with scrambled eggs, goat cheese and chives. They have beautiful breads and spreads and if you are a chocoholic they serve up an XL mocha.

There is a serious lack of poached eggs in Munich. The best I’ve had are from Joon. The Stulle Avocado serves up poached eggs on a bed of rocket, cherry tomatoes, and avocado crème all on a crunchy piece of brown toast. They also serve pancakes, muesli and huge salads for lunch. You can also pimp your coffee with flavours. My personal favourite is cinnamon.

For a healthier option head to Daddy Long Legs. You can order an acai bowl or earth bowl to eat in or take away. The acai bowl comes with homemade granola. Just pick your toppings – fruits and superfoods, not lollies. Your earthbowl will be made up of quinoa, avocado, baby spinach, red cabbage, carrot and a tangy dressing and can be bulked up with seasonal vegetables, feta, an egg, or some chicken. You could also opt for a smoothie, coffee, tea or a slice of banana bread.

For everything homemade try Kaffee Küche. Translating to coffee kitchen in English this cosy little café is inviting in the cold weather and offers sunny outdoor seating in Rosenheimerplatz for summer. You’ll find homemade bagels, paninis, quiches, muesli pots, chia puddings, eggs and more. They also have you covered for teas, coffees, hot chocolates or alcoholic beverages if you are ready for a stronger drink.

Honourable breakfast mentions in Munich: Das Maria, Hungriges Herz, Morso, Tagescafe and Mahlefitz