Posted: August 16, 2005
Archived from BonnyTymePyrate's Journal Archive
Time out from âOpheliacâ for 45 minutesâŠokay, 46âŠWell, those of you who get our lovely Newsletter are already all too familiar with all of this, but I thought Iâd show off the final product of those months of Punktorian menâs toil, that which I had hinted about several posts ago when I was still wondering what the hell to do.
Read onward for an incredibly picture-heavy post which you probably WILL regretâŠIâm talking of course about the B. Corgan video for the single âWalking Shade,â directed by the wonderful P.R. Brown. Paul was a dream to work with, so open to my Punktorian world, and built upon it to create a fantastic setting for all these bits of fabric Iâd bled over. When things got a bit insane towards the end, I brought in some extremely talented ladies to help me complete the project on time, namely, Caroline, who kept me going with her box of 76 industrial CDs. We heard them all. Thrice. What made things even more challenging is that we didnât know up until the very very very last minute which song these costumes were even forâŠit was a battle between âDIAâ (the song Iâm on), and âWSâ to the last. âDIAâ made more sense in a million and one ways, mainly that I already had the most exquisite antique black velvet hat complete with feathers, not to mention the Victorian mourning gown, but âWSâ was chosen in the end. It only really mattered of course because the chance to create costumes that fit the lyrical content of each song was lost, and I had to instead design pieces that would generically fit for whichever song was chosen, which was a useful exercise and Iâm not complainingâŠperhaps only slightlyâŠ.My idea was to create a picture of the Victorian underground, filled with shady characters, a bit of dirt, a tinge of glamor, and questionable morals. A lot like dating rock stars. To begin with, I made these sketches:
Then it was time to make watercolors reality, which is not as easy as it sounds. After months of stitching, unstitching, restitching, building shoulders into coats, building stronger shoulders into coats, pattern-making, glove shredding, tea-dying, button positioning, bondage strapping, hat distressing, boot shopping (size 12, my friends, are near impossible to find, and I nearly had to sell my left breast into slavery for the ones I finally found), we had 5 full lead outfits complete with breeches, gloves, hats, stockings, vests, shirts, coats, canes, boots, pocket-watches (basically everything but skivvies), and two band costumes (and I can tell you itâs harder to make two costumes exactly alike than it is to make ten that are different), which looked a little somethinâ like this:
Someone wasnât in the mood to tie their shoesâŠ
This coat pattern was made from scratch, just draping fabric around a dress formâŠfirst time Iâd ever made a manâs coatâŠ
Goddamn, thatâs a lot of zippersâŠ
Every single outfit was made so that you could take off the coat, and still have a wearable âlookâ, thereby creating yet more options for the director to play withâŠ
We fought with this coat for a monthâŠthe tweed fabric was so heavy that the shoulders, which already had a challenge ahead of themselves, were inevitably pulled southwardâŠwe tried everything from cardboard inserts to resetting entire sleeves, and I think I blacked out from exhaustion at some point, because I honestly canât remember how we fixed the problemâŠ
Yes, I am fucking proud of this designâŠit is sexâŠonly betterâŠtea-dyed to the extreme for a weathered, torn, aged, Iâve slept in this for the last six months appearanceâŠ
Even the coat has two looks (actually three, but wait for the surpiseâŠ), because you can fold the collar down to expose the jaunty jabotâŠa little cane never hurt anybody eitherâŠ
The bondage straps were made so that you can easily unhook them and reconnect them to various other D-rings placed elsewhere on the coatâŠor you can hook them to you dogâs collar and go for a strollâŠ
And underneath it all, a ragged gentleman lurks, pocket-watch in towâŠthis was my attempt to popularize stripey stockings on men, if you hadnât already noticedâŠnot sure yet what the global buzz is on that one, Iâll be checking the magsâŠ
For this set, I wanted the appearance of somebody just back from digging in the dirt, a popular pastime in Victorian EnglandâŠ
I regret that I do not have a clearer picture of this appliqued emblem, because it is rather sweetâŠthis shirt made good use of both my overlock machine and my acrylic paintsâŠ
Here, the same heart-on-cross emblem is repeated, this time just painted onâŠafter going back and forth on the issue, we decided to leave the shirt out rather than tucked inâŠwe like messy schoolboysâŠ
All private school uniforms should look like thisâŠ
Just a nice ensemble for a casual country twilight walkâŠthe vest is sporting actual antique buttonsâŠthere were supposed to be gloves photographed with all of these looks, but we forgot, being completely focused on other things at the time, such as how to keep not yet buttoned cuffs on without the use of safety pinsâŠ
Punktorian Henchmen (dear friends Matt & BrianâŠare they not the most gorgeous pair youâve ever seen in breeches?)
Now! My pies de resistance! The keepers of the Punktorian Underground! I call to order the first meeting of the Boot Brigade!
Lace-up coatsâŠdoes it get hotter than this? I think notâŠ
Matt Walkerâs got stylezâŠhere heâs thinking of ways to kill you without leaving a markâŠ
Heâs still thinking of ways to kill youâŠheâs narrowing it down to either cyanide or a mind-blowing drum fillâŠ
Brian Liesegang, my favorite puppy dog, was such a delightfully willing participant in this game of dress-upâŠthanks Brian!
Just you look at that jabot! Look at it!
Alright then, it seems heâs decided on the cyanideâŠ
Iâm particularly proud of how these shirts came outâŠwhat a divine, tea-dyed, shredded mess:
Iâm very very proud of this work, and of those who helped me, Paul Brown, Matt, Brian, Caroline, fLee, CrysTAL, Melanie, and strong black tea, thank you to you all, I am indebted! So thatâs it, or that which I can tell anyway, the rest is for history to decipherâŠ
Oh, and please do come out to Chicagoâs DoubleDoor August 27th to see Matt play with his band âCupcakesâ