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Cities, like dreams, are made of desires and fears, even if the thread of their discourse is secret, their rules are absurd, their perspectives deceitful, and everything conceals something else.
- Italo Calvino, Invisible Cities
Dubai. What can I say of my time living and working here for these past few months?
There are vast swathes of Earth that confound human habitability, and yet humans persevere in these places. Being struck - or stuck - between scorched desert on one side and sea on the other may not seem like the best of locations to build a city. But Dubai turned this apparent deficiency into a positive asset - indeed much of its 21st Century futurism rhetoric was built around its desert location.
Advantage one of a tabula rasa traipsed over by Bedouin tribes for hundreds of years is that there’s little built history to contend with. No foundational forebears or symbolic, mythic origins to tiptoe around. It’s been billed as one huge sheet of blank paper to reboot the future.
Advantage two is that there is nothing to limit growth. Like Las Vegas, one of the fastest-growing cities in the U.S., Dubai has virginal space to expand as and when it wants. And it does so in both directions, devouring desert and invading the sea.
I found it weird, when I looked up what a desert is geologically speaking, to discover that the largest ones are Antarctica and the Arctic. Desert is defined as a barren area of landscape where living conditions are hostile for plant and animal life. Sand is not as necessary an attribute.
In Dubai, the endless conveyor belt-like walking in the world’s largest shopping mall felt like sensory torture to me. The best thing about Dubai was leaving Dubai and heading instead into the desert. In contrast, the silence of the desert was instantly cleansing. A pilgrimage to the desert at weekends reinforced the spiritual dimension of deserts. The body felt different out there. Less able to hide behind the camouflage of cultured life.
I‘ve also been wondering if the city is the opposite of the desert? If the mall is the desert in a city?
We glean so much aesthetic and moral pleasure from the pictures of brand-new settlements built in desert landscapes - Saudi Arabia and parts of China come to mind - which are never inhabited, and instantly transform into ancient, ghostly ruins. There‘s the whole story of civilisation‘s ambition and idiocy in these hubristic failures, especially, as archaeology tells us, many deserts hide previous civilisations’ buried cities.
The desert is, thus, one of the ultimate encodings of deep time. Against which, human time will always lose.
I don’t know which Arab writer described Dubai as an example of ‘Gulf Futurism’ - a city built on shiny skyscrapers, petro-fuelled SUV machismo, nouveau-riche bling-baroque interior design. But, arguably, the kinds of deserts found in the Arabian Gulf are deep in the subconscious of the cities that have grown out of them: like Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Kuwait, Manama, and Doha.
Gulf Futurism knows that from sand the skyscrapers were made. To sand the skyscrapers ultimately one day will return.
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