#ambarka

The art adorned in Lemonade holds great significance because of its ability to communicate to society who the wearer is while both enhancing and protecting the beauty of the wearer. Beyoncé is wearing Yoruba body paint from Nigeria called “Ori”, which is usually white and covers the whole face. 

The Ori (which means ‘soul’) is intended to reveal the soul of its wearer. As such, a traditional Ori artist must be highly skilled at interpreting souls. In this way, this ritual also reminds me of the artists involved in creating the Moko of the Maori, or the Kakau of Hawai’i. Nigerian artist Laolu Senbanjo, who painted Beyoncé and her dancers for the video, said when interviewed by Okayafrica about the experience, “it was so emotional. It was powerful, mind-blowing. Being someone of her power, status, speaking up for women, speaking up for Black Lives Matter, empowerment. To be part of that… she has an amazing vision. Which is what I do with my painting. It’s a form of liberation”. 

There is a similar form of body art called “Kula” worn by women in Oromia. For the Oromo people, Kula helps protect women from Buda, or those with the evil eye. Kula is colorful and highlights areas between and below the eyes, to accentuate and draw attention to the woman’s face, nowadays painted on with nail polish. It is a venue for self-expression for the Oromo woman. Beyoncé is also seen wearing the ambarka, a beaded African necklace, used to communicate through patterns a woman’s skills or interests. Just as with body art, the beadwork in Oromo jewelry is an identifying factor of the people. I love the fact that Beyoncé is using her platform to celebrate traditional African art and raise up African artists. I’m grateful to have been inspired to learn more about the art and fashion of the Oromo and Yoruba women in Africa. 

Ambarka  

a young, unmarried girl’s “most prized possession”

made out of imported beads, and an old-basket pattern that subversively distinguishes Oromo heritage with 4 diamonds

only in use for ~15 years, but extremely important to Oromo identity and in providing a “subverted political voice”

Ethiopian Amulet

offer protection from buda (the evil eye)

made of square, leather cases and worn around the neck

typically, a newborn baby will receive an amulet tied on a string as their first piece of jewelry