LIMBS: Alexander McQueen “N.13”, Spring 1999 — Sophie de Oliveira Barata + Alternative Limb Project The wood encarves prosthetic leg was worn by the athlete Aimee Mullins to open McQueen’s S/S99 show, titled No. 13. Each one of McQueen’s shows was revelatory and awe-inspiring, but arguably this leg, is a reminder of a moment when he truly changed fashion – smashing a lingering taboo, celebrating disability where the fashion world had otherwise chosen to ignore it. Sophie de Oliveira Barata and her Alternative Limb Project, help amputees to focus less on their disability by forging an entirely new frontier in personalisation through the bespoke customisation of her client’s passions and deepest desires. Her intimate studio opens a world of opportunities and possibilities for amputees in a time when most would have lost hope. Interpreting her client’s ideas, Sophie creates extremities and limbs to inspire and empower the wearer. #limbs #sophiedeoliveirabarata #alexandermcqueen #n13 #alternativelimbproject #aimeemullins #paraolympics #insidethemood https://www.instagram.com/p/CR6Vtd7Ndxh/?utm_medium=tumblr
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There were many topics covered during this week’s lecture- including gender, age, religion, sexuality, and disability. I took an interest in all these topics, however, Disability stood out for me the most.
From a basic search online or even a glance around in every day – amputees who choose to have prosthetics seem to have those that are a mid-way between as realistic as possible but at the same time more practical over aesthetics. Practicality is the most important aspect to look at when designing a prosthetic, however, I feel this doesn’t mean that how it looks should be sacrificed. How the prosthetic looks should solely come down to the wearer and their personal aesthetic choices.
Later in the lecture, we heard about the Hands of X project. The Hands of X project – a collaboration between DJCAD, the Scottish Charity, MAKLab and the Institute of Making- aimed to “expand the palette of materials available to wearers of prosthetic hands.” Through a series of workshops participants – including amputees, prosthetists, makers, artists, engineers, and material scientists- worked together to explore possible materials to create affordable and original designs. This meant that amputees would have a say in what was being created for them, something completely tailored to their aesthetic choices and functionality needs. I feel this inclusion within the design process of their prosthetics is important, making the wearer feel more connected and involved. (Institute of Making)
Hands of X reminded me of a similar project I had seen online quite some time ago, called the “Alternative Limb Project”. It was set up by Sophie de Oliveira Barata – a specialist consultant for prosthetics who spent 8 years working with leading prosthetics providers making realistic and bespoke pieces for amputees. The project explores body image, modification, and transhumanism – supporting positive conversations surrounding disability and body diversity- through cutting edge technologies.
For example, the project was commissioned by “Konami” – a leading games tycoon – to develop a bespoke limb for an amputee gamer, taking inspiration from the game “Metal Gear Solid”. The final piece was created from carbon fibre and had the capability of gesturing and was named “Phantom Limb”.
The process of creation starts with a consultation to discuss what the wearer wants, this then leads onto Barata working alongside their client’s prosthetist to work out the practicalities and fittings. Once everything is finalised the creation can begin- Barata hand sculpts the limb from casts, photographs and colour reading, this can take a month to six months to complete and is finalised after the client is invited to go through the final touches. (NEMONOLIO 2019)
Both projects run along the same theme, having practical (and some impractical) prosthetics but without the sacrifice of the wearer’s aesthetics. Disability is often seen as a taboo subject, however, in some cases, amputees will have processed and dealt with the aftermath of losing a limb and can make light-hearted conversation about it. Giving full control to amputees and how they want their limb to look, in my opinion, not only gives them a sense of individuality but also creates a better atmosphere surrounding them.
References
Institute of Making date unknown, Hands of X Project, Unknown, viewed 24 September 2019, < https://www.instituteofmaking.org.uk/research/hands-of-x>
NEMONOLIO 2019, Alternative Limb Project -About, Unknown, viewed 25 September 2019, < http://www.thealternativelimbproject.com/about/the-alternative-limb-project/>
NEMONOLIO 2019, Alternative Limb Project -Phantom Limb, Unknown, viewed 25 September 2019, < http://www.thealternativelimbproject.com/project/phantom-limb/>
"The first time I wore a limb that was so obviously BIONIC, it gave me a total sense of uniqueness and feeling of mutant human in the best way possible." — VIKTORIA MODESTA
