A beautiful morning, nice coffee... serene times, paddle out into some fun head high waves... and then it ended with rail to the face and in the ER w 8 stitches in my lip...🚑 #lifehappens #allpartofit #ilovesurfing 🐬 Got me thinking does life happen to me? Or FOR me?... there is medicine is every experience, even the painful ones...🐳 (at Olo Alaia)












