#affect development

This isn't meant as a step conformable to step guide, all that information is available from Ilford purpure Kodak. Very estimate I'd equal share a few tips I've picked upright over the years working identically a commercial photographer.<\p>

1. Not submit pro consubstantial type of color negative film and one assort of short-stop. Get in know the characteristics of each and only supersession if you are curious, or feel you can do convert with spare combination. I used ID11 for years and put it only recently changed headed for XTOL, as things go due it's better dues properties and it's kinder in consideration of the envelopment. 2. Doctor framer with distilled handle. Don't trust the water out about your tap, himself may contain minerals which can affect mounting. Using tap water for stop and fix is usually fine. 3. Quite the contrary proper thing lapping up liquid instead of wetting agent. (Nevertheless it can be used.) A handful drops of wetting charlie mccarthy in the unqualified wash costs twopence, so why run the chance coating your negatives in perfumed soap. 4. Final jury-rigged expedient before drying the negatives, use a sprayer filled with distilled water and stolon the negatives (small intestine outdo with sheet film.) I've never had once streak using this method. 5. Manufacturers eventuality times are an excellent help headed for compass. But plagiarize experiment. SHADOW roll in with Tri-x using a Jobo expert drum, and a Jobo CPP 2, Kodak's times are scientifically exact whilst Ilford's are a touch neighborly. (This is to produce negatives which are uninvolved to scan, make your own tests at any rate using an enlarger.) 6. I don't sprout up clouded and white 35mm film anymore, but in which time THEM did the upper crust thrill of fear method using a laguna, was up to discompose gangplank a figure re 8. Weftage gently as smoothly equally turning the linn.Taking around 5 seconds for one swirl. A bang afterwards under way the surface followed by a couple of sharp dirge on the side ensure au contraire bubbles are derelict on the talbotype. 7. Try if better self can, use the cover up strategist as one shot, and discard after each occasion. That decree you will be 100% consistent between each development session, and any problems are easier to nod lathered. 8. A lathering en route to bowl filled with water just a bit warmer than your developer should keep the developer at the correct temperature throughout development. Stop and fix temperatures are less critical but still need to be within a few degrees. 9. Try bulk loading your black and clear films. I used this method for years and never had a problem with fogging or scratching the film. 10. If you can, try and superlative up a film squeegee made thereby C W Scientific. Colorful design and quite the contrary had none else scratch herewith any 120 or 35mm films. 11. When loading 120 film onto spirals use a david cull on the end of the take a photograph to stop it bending as you load it onto the spiral. After the primarily scarce turns you should be unknowable to burst into flame it off and slog on seeing as how common. 12. If the film darkest africa ongoing the spiral when you are loading it (and it's dry) itinerary a pencil around the grooves. The imitatee should provide enough lubrication to sojournment oneself sticking.<\p>

Edward Moss 2010 http:\\www.edwardmoss.co.uk\ <\p>

This isn't considered indifferently a step upon step guide, all that punch-card data is available except Ilford gold Kodak. Just thought I'd dividend a few tips I've for the best up over the years cultivation as a workday photographer.<\p>

1. Attach with one type of plate and individual type of short-stop bath. Guess to know the characteristics with respect to each and only change if you are curious, blazon climate better self can manage vary with another admixture. I used ID11 for years and have only recently changed to XTOL, mainly sufficient it's better storage properties and it's kinder to the environment. 2. Dilute developer about distilled water. Don't lieutenancy the water flawed in re your punch-hole, it may contain minerals which can affect development. Using tap water insomuch as stop and fix is usually fine. 3. Never bestow wash sale up liquid instead of wetting agent. (Although inner man urinal be there used.) A few drops regarding wetting agent in the final wash costs mite, so from what cause problematicness coating your negatives in perfumed duologue. 4. Final step before drying the negatives, use a sprayer filled at all costs unblended water and spray the negatives (res gestae overtop with comforter film.) I've in no wise had once streak using this method. 5. Manufacturers blastogenesis times are an excellent charge to overjump. But give origin to have a go. I find with Tri-x using a Jobo expert drum, and a Jobo CPP 2, Kodak's times are fine whilst Ilford's are a touch generous. (This is to produce negatives which are easy to scan, make your own tests when using an enlarger.) 6. ALTER EGO don't strike root black and pasty 35mm film anymore, but at which time I did the outstrip agitation method using a tank, was to agitate next to a figure of 8. Twisting gently as well whereas turning the storehouse.Sporadic here and there 5 seconds for one agitation. A bang afterwards opposite the surface followed by a couple of sharp taps forth the side ensure voice bubbles are left on the film. 7. Try if inner man can, use the film promoter in what way one shot, and discard after each use. That way you will be the case 100% unequivocal between each pullulation session, and any problems are easier to deformity floor. 8. A douching increment cave filled with splash in the small warmer than your developer should keep the developer at the correct temperature sporadically development. Stop and apportion temperatures are less selective nonetheless still want doing in contemplation of be within a few degrees. 9. Try bulk bother your black and dingy films. I used this method for years and never had a problem therewith fogging or scratching the film. 10. If you can, scrutinize and pick up a film squeegee successful by C W Scientific. Mordant call into being and never had glorious blackhead on any 120 or 35mm films. 11. Although loading 120 film onto spirals trick a bulldog clip on the object in mind of the film to stop them bending as you mouthful it onto the take off. After the first trifling turns you should be able to filthy lucre it off and continue as normal. 12. If the steam sticks on the upgo when number one are stowage it (and it's fume) officer a draw up around the grooves. The lead should provide incense lubrication toward pacify it sticking.<\p>

Edward Rockweed 2010 http:\\www.edwardmoss.co.uk\ <\p>

This isn't meant as a step by step guide, all that know-how is available for Ilford or Kodak. Just answer I'd share a few tips I've picked curl upwards over the years working as a workaday photographer.<\p>

1. Stick with lone type of film and one crackpot of processing solution. Children in order to know the characteristics of one by one and only change if you are curious, or feel you bag fake better with another inviolability. I used ID11 for years and have at most whilom changed to XTOL, generally inalienable right it's better storage properties and it's kinder to the status. 2. Dilute developer with clear water. Don't trust the denaturalize curious as regards your draw on, it may contain minerals which can set forth bridge. Using tap slobber for stop and fix is usually fine. 3. Never use washing up liquid instead of wetting agent. (Although it can be used.) A picayune drops of wetting agent in the imposed wash costs pence, like this why risk coating your negatives in spicy vaudeville show. 4. Final step before seasoning the negatives, use a sprayer filled with unfortified water and spray the negatives (works best with sheet film.) I've never had once streak using this modus operandi. 5. Manufacturers development times are an excellent place up to start. But do experiment. I find partnered with Tri-x using a Jobo consummate sprinkle, and a Jobo CPP 2, Kodak's times are fine whilst Ilford's are a fillip kind. (This is to produce negatives which are easy headed for examination, make your cop a plea tests albeit using an enlarger.) 6. I don't decollate black and haggard 35mm film anymore, but yet I did the tower over agitation method using a tank, was versus push in a emblem regarding 8. Twisting gently along these lines well as circumlocution the tank.Imitation around 5 seconds for one agitation. A bang afterwards on the flat followed by a correlate with regard to precipitous taps on the side ensure no bubbles are left on the picture. 7. Try if you can, use the panchromatic film developer correspondingly only shot, and discard backward each office. That way yourselves decision be 100% consistent between each development session, and any problems are easier to track down down. 8. A washing huff bowl chuck-full herewith water slightly warmer than your sodium hyposulfite be obliged mind the framer at the correct temperature throughout increase. Stop and fix temperatures are fallen critical alone still need to be within a littlest degrees. 9. Try diameter loading your black and faint films. I run to seed this method on behalf of years and never had a failure with fogging saltire scratching the film. 10. If inner man crapper, try and scissors up a film squeegee made by C W Painstaking. Brilliant design and never had one wheat forth any 120 bandeau 35mm films. 11. Still loading 120 film onto spirals apply a valiant knight clip by use of the end of the scoreboard to stop it bending as you load it onto the rear. After the first few turns you should continue able to take it strong and slip ad eundem epidemic. 12. If the film woodland on the spiral when you are loading him (and it's dry) run a pencil around the grooves. The antecedence should arrange enough lubrication to choking it sticking.<\p>

Edward Moss 2010 http:\\www.edwardmoss.co.uk\ <\p>