#2strokeworld

SPEC II offers a replacement coil kit. The weakest link in the stock ignition is the coils. The points actually work pretty well if the crank is in good shape. Properly set and lubricated, the points should be checked with a timing light every 1,000 miles. Use automotive distributor cam grease.

The SPEC II coil kit is $99.95. It comes pre-wired including the hi-tension leads and caps. The kit includes brackets that fit the stock frame mounting holes. The coils mount in the stock location.

SPEC II offers 2 styles of real CDI ignitions systems. The German ignition described below and a racing only magneto style ignition. The racing magneto comes complete with coils and an aluminum rotor with magnets. It is much lighter than the German ignitions flywheel. The racing magneto does not offer a charging system. It is $449.90.

The German ignition comes with the rotor and stator that replaces the charging system on the crankshaft. Since this is a magneto style system, there is a lot more current available to charge the battery, run lights, etc. It, also, comes with a new rectifier/regulator and special coil.

This ignition is a CDI. This type of system offers a much faster rise time than the stock inductance type ignition system. This dramatically extends plug life and greatly reduces high rpm mis-fire.

Though the $499.00 price produces sticker shock, it really is a redesign rather than just an upgrade.

Here’s a customer’s picture of his SPEC II equipped RD400F.

2strokeworld (.com) was a favorite website for 2-stroke enthusiasts in the U.S.  It was particularly popular for Yamaha twin (RD’s and RZ’s) owners. Kawasaki triple owners have several separate forums but they also contributed to 2strokeworld.

The site went down in December 2018 and was reborn on or around February 9, 2019. It’s now 2strokeworld.net

If your RD400 (or RD350, R5, etc.) crank isn’t rotating, the first thought is - did the engine seize?  Two strokes are much more likely to seize than four strokes.

One way to check if your RD400 seized is to remove the spark plugs and look at the electrodes.  If either of them is covered with specs of aluminum, there you go. Next step is removing the heads and inspecting the cylinders.

If the engine didn’t seize, another possibility is loosening of the lead weights in the crankshaft.  If the lead weights loosen and fall out, they will stop the crank from turning.  Checking for a loose lead weight will call for removal lf the cylinders and looking into the crank case.  If the a lead weight has come loose, the crankshaft will have to be rebuilt.

If the lead weights are in their proper place, something might have come loose inside the crankcase. To test, put the transmission in neutral and pull the right side cover.  Turn the engine over using the nut on the primary drive.  If it will not turn over, remove the primary gear, switch sides and using the nut securing the ignition rotor carefully  turn the engine over.  Don’t torque that little bolt too hard, if it breaks you’ll have another problem to fix.  If that works the problem is downstream of the crankshaft and pistons and will require disassembly of the clutch and maybe even splitting of the cases.

To continue, remove the clutch cover, checking the bolts holding the clutch pressure plate and also the primary drive gears.

My H1 tripmeter knob broke recently. The bike is 45 years old and some of the original parts are no longer available from Kawasaki. Luckily, there are alternatives.

Kawasaki part # 92077-1015 is a tripmeter knob that fits like the original. The difference - the replacement has a tapered end, versus a non-tapered end on the original.  

The tripmeter knob is held in place by a small screw, Kawasaki part # 92009-1172.

Here’s how I replaced the tripmeter knob.  First I removed the speedometer from its housing. Pretty easy, just undo the two nuts holding it in the housing along with the speedometer cable. Be careful with those small nuts, they are small and easy to lose.  And it’s hard to find replacements.

The original tripmeter knob broke off.  No work to remove it. The securing screw was still threaded in the shaft and the head was stripped. I grabbed the screw head with a vise grip and held the shaft in place with needle nose pliers. The screw came out easily.

The knob had a small rubber hose around it, presumably to help prevent water from entering the housing. I slid the hose onto the new knob. Then I installed the knob - note the shaft has a flat spot and the knob has a matching bump on its inside, the two must match up for the knob to fit properly. Then I put a drop of blue locktite on a new screw and fastened the knob to the tripmeter shaft.

Next step - reinstall the speedometer in its housing, secure it with the two nuts and attach the speedometer cable.

Scott Z on Maui is a new friend of mine.  He has many 2-stroke bikes and here’s a picture of his RD350 that’s been turned into a street track bike.