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Comic Sans for Everyone

Install “Comic Sans for Everyone” for Chrome

Here at Google, the Webmaster Team is always running experiments and conducting research to improve user experience and increase conversion rates across our websites.

Following some rigorous user testing of 41 different fonts, investigating how each affected user experience, we discovered one font consistently outperformed all others when it comes to user satisfaction, level of engagement, understanding web content, productivity, click-through rates and conversion rates: Comic Sans.

We’ll therefore be rolling out Comic Sans as our default font across all Google products on April 4, 2011.

For today only, we’re inviting a limited number of lucky Google users to take part in our Google Labs Trusted Tester Beta Preview Sandbox program. To participate, follow these easy steps:

If you haven’t done already, install Google Chrome.

Open Google Chrome and install the “Comic Sans for Everyone” extension from the Chrome Web Store.

Your account will be automatically activated once the extension is installed, allowing you to browse the entire World Wide Web using Comic Sans. In the extremely unlikely event that you decide to opt-out of the preview, you can simply disable or uninstall the extension by visiting your Extensions page.

For the latest news and updates, be sure to follow @GoogleWebTeam on Twitter.

Research

The data from our experiments with Wingdings in AdSense last year helped us realize that our users prefer it when web pages and web applications “pop” and feel more friendly, resulting in an all round better user experience.

Eye tracking: The intense areas shown on the Comic Sans heat map (left) shows that users thoroughly read every piece of content displayed in Comic Sans. For the Arial version on the right, we see a more conventional eye tracking pattern.

Whether it’s search results, text ads, emails, or documents, our research has consistently shown that the most effective way to achieve user happiness and higher conversion rates is to use the Comic Sans font.

Website owners can help with our font experiments by using Google Web Fonts on their own sites. While Comic Sans unfortunately isn’t available, our research shows that Reenie Beanie is pretty fun for users too.

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A free sock pattern by Judy Becker

Note: This pattern was updated on 05/05/2007 Errata in previous version: Row 1 of the heel turn should be as follows (change in bold) Row 1:  P1, K19, PM, M1R, K16, M1L, PM, turn (there will be 18 stitches between the markers – 16 original + 2 increases — 20 stitches to the right of the first marker and 20 unworked stitches to the left of the second marker)

The color and pattern of these socks reminded me of the upper Henry’s Fork of the Snake River, where I spent many happy childhood days roaming the woods.

The sock was designed to be knit from the toe-up using two circular needles. (Try knitting both at once!) The pattern could be adapted easily to DPNs by dividing the stitches into four equal portions.

The stitch pattern is a modified form of a 16-row/8-stitch pattern that is usually knit with YO increases to create a more open, lacy look. Knit with closed increases as on these socks, the pattern forms a faux-cable that looks complex but is actually quite straight forward to knit.

Snake River Socks were inspired by Sockbug’s top-down River Rapid Socks pattern.

Instructions are for women’s size medium. Since the stitch pattern is essentially a rib, it is quite stretchy and will accommodate most widths. Pointers for increasing the length and width are given below. Knitting with different yarn and/or needles to adjust the gauge is another possibility.

To increase foot length: Knit several straight K-all rounds after completing the toe and before starting the stitch pattern.

To increase width: Add extra purl stitches between the pattern repeats on the instep. Do not add extra stitches to the sole. After completing the heel, increase the number of purl stitches between the pattern repeats on the leg.

SIZE

Women’s medium

MATERIALS

Koigu KPPPM [160m / 50g, 100% Merino wool]; color: P521 (light green with dark green and orange speckles); 2 skeins

2 sets US #1 (2.5mm) circular needles, or size to give gauge

Extra DPN or cable needle or stitch holder

Stitch markers

GAUGE

8 sts / 12 rows = 1” in stockinette stitch

INCREASING

M1L: Insert left needle into left loop of stitch two rows below last completed stitch. Knit this stitch through the front loop.

M1R: Insert right needle into right loop of stitch just below the next stitch. Place it on to the left needle and knit it through the back loop.

ABBREVIATIONS

Circ – circular needle

M1L – Left-leaning increase. Use the one above or any other increase of your choosing.

M1R – Right-leaning increase. Use the one above or any other increase of your choosing.

K2Tog – Knit two stitches together

P2Tog – Purl two stitches together

SSK – Slip the next two stitches to the right needle as if to knit. Place the left needle through the front loops of the two slipped stitches and knit them together.

Tbl – Knit stitch through back loop

PM – Place Marker

RM – Remove Marker

WYIB – With yarn held in the back

WYIF – With yarn held in the front

AI2K – As if to knit

AI2P – As if to purl

FAUX-CABLE STITCH PATTERN: Rnd1: P1, K6, P1, repeat Rnd2: P1, K6, P1, repeat Rnd3: P1, M1R, K2, SSK, K2, P1, repeat Rnd4: P1, K6, P1, repeat Rnd5: P1, K1, M1R, K2, SSK, K1, P1, repeat Rnd6: P1, K6, P1, repeat Rnd7: P1, K2, M1R, K2, SSK, P1, repeat Rnd8: P1, K6, P1, repeat Rnd9: P1, K6, P1, repeat Rnd10: P1, K6, P1, repeat Rnd11: P1, K2, K2Tog, K2, M1L, P1, repeat Rnd12: P1, K6, P1, repeat Rnd13: P1, K1, K2Tog, K2, M1L, K1, P1, repeat Rnd14: P1, K6, P1, repeat Rnd15: P1, K2Tog, K2, M1L, K2, P1, repeat Rnd16: P1, K6, P1, repeat

DIRECTIONS

Toe

Using Magic Cast-On, cast on 20 stitches total (10 on each needle).

Rnd 1:  K to end of round Rnd 2:  Circ 1 — * K2, M1L, K to within 2 stitches of end of needle 1, M1R, K2.             Circ 2 — Repeat from *.

Repeat Rnd1 and Rnd 2 until there are 64 stitches total – 32 on each needle.

Foot

All rounds:  Circ 1 — work next row from Faux-Cable stitch pattern                    Circ 2 — P1, K until 1 stitch remains on left needle, P1

Repeat this round until the Faux-Cable stitch pattern has been repeated 3 times.

Work 9 more rounds, ending on row 9 of the Faux-Cable stitch pattern.

Gusset

Rnd 1:  Circ 1 — work next row from Faux-Cable stitch pattern             Circ 2 — P1, M1L, K until one stitch remains on left needle, M1R, P1

Rnd 2:  Circ 1 — work next row from Faux-Cable stitch pattern             Circ 2 — P1, K until one stitch remains on left needle, P1

Repeat these two rounds 11 more times – (56 stitches on Circ 2) – ending on row 1 of Faux-Cable stitch pattern

Last Rnd:  Circ 1 — work row 2 of Faux-Cable stitch pattern             Circ 2 — Work heel turn and heel flap

Heel Turn

Note: If knitting two socks together, complete the turn and heel flap of one sock before starting the turn and heel flap of the second sock.

Row 1:  P1, K19, PM, M1R, K16, M1L, PM, turn (there will be 18 stitches between the markers – 16 original + 2 increases — 20 stitches to the right of the first marker and 20 unworked stitches to the left of the second marker)

Row 2:  Sl 1 st WYIF AI2P, P15, turn

Row 3:  M1R, K14, M1L, turn (20 stitches between markers)

Row 4:  Sl 1 st WYIF AI2P, P13, turn

Row 5:  M1R, K12, M1L, turn (22 stitches between markers)

Row 6:  Sl 1 st WYIF AI2P, P11, turn

Row 7:  M1R, K10, M1L, turn (24 stitches between markers)

Row 8:  Sl 1 st WYIF AI2P, P9, turn

Row 9:  M1R, K8, M1L, Turn (26 stitches between markers)

Row 10: Sl 1 st WYIF AI2P, P7, turn

Row 11: M1R, K6, M1L, Turn (28 stitches between markers)

Row 12: Sl 1 st WYIF AI2P, P5, turn

Row 13: M1R, K4, M1L, (30 stitches between markers), do not turn, K across increases from previous rows to within 4 stitches of marker, P3, WYIB Sl 1 st AI2P, RM, replace slipped stitch on left needle, P2Tog, turn

Row 14: Sl 1 st WYIF AI2P, P to within 4 stitches of marker, including across increases from previous rows, K3, Sl 1 st AITK, RM, SL 1 st AITK, place tip of left needle through front loops of two slipped stitches and knit them together

Heel Flap

Row 1:  Sl 1 st WYIB AI2K, K3, *Sl 2 st, K2, repeat from * 4 times, Sl 2 st, P3, P2tog, turn

Row 2:  Sl 1 st WYIF AI2P, P25, K3, K2Tog, turn

Repeat these two rows 17 more times, melding one gusset stitch into the heel flap on each row. When finished, there will be 2 unworked stitches to the right of the right of the heel flap and 2 unworked stitches to the left of the heel flap.

Last Row:  Sl 1 st WYIB AI2K, K5, * P2, K6, repeat from * 1 time, P2, K3, P2, P2tog, p1, do not turn.

Go back to knitting in the round.

Ankle

Rnd 1:  Circ 1 — work row 3 from Faux-Cable stitch pattern            Circ 2 — P1, move next st to cable needle or spare DPN, P1, replace held st on left needle, P2Tog, P1, K3, * P2, M1R, K2, SSK, K2, repeat from * 1 time, P2, K3, P4

Rnd 2:  Circ 1 — work row 4 from Faux-Cable stitch pattern            Circ 2 — P3, K4, * P2, K6, repeat from * 1 time, P2, K4, P3

Rnd 3:  Circ 1 — work row 5 from Faux-Cable stitch pattern            Circ 2 — P2, K5, * P2, K1, M1R, K2, SSK, K1, repeat from * 1 time, P2, K5, P2

Rnd 4:  Circ 1 — work row 6 from Faux-Cable stitch pattern            Circ 2 — P1, K6, * P2, K6, repeat from * 1 time, P2, K6, P1

Rnd 5:  Circ 1 — work row 7 from Faux-Cable stitch pattern            Circ 2 — P1, K6, * P2, K2, M1R, K2, SSK, repeat from * 1 time, P2, K6, P1

Rnd 6:  Work next row of Faux-Cable stitch pattern across both needles.

Repeat Rnd 6 until all rows of Faux-Cable stitch pattern have been worked a total of three more times, ending with row 16.

Cuff

Rnd 1,2:    P1, * K2, P2, repeat from *, end P1

Rnd 3,4,5:  * P1, K3, repeat from * around

Rnd 6,7,8:  * K2, P1, K1, P1, K2, P1, repeat from * around

Rnd 9:       * K1, P1, repeat from * around

Continue in K1, P1 ribbing for approximately 1”.

Finishing

Bind off loosely using stretchy bind-off technique (the pictured socks were bound off using a Kitchener bind-off).

Break yarn. Weave in ends.

Enjoy your socks!

Link to PDF version of pattern: Snake River Socks right-click and save to download

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Reality is merely an illusion, albeit a very persistent one. ~ Albert Einstein

Reality is that which refuses to go away when I stop believing in it. ~ Philip K Dick

Reality... what a concept. ~ Robin Williams

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Persistent Illusion, unless otherwise expressly stated, is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 3.0 License.

Copyright © 2007-2011 Judy Becker

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Monday, February 7, 2011

Judy's Magic Cast On, a-la-Jeny

A bit over a year ago, I posted my version of Judy's Magic Cast On, which is very similar to the traditional version except that I start on the bottom needle. My original post is here. Then sometime after that, I re-engineered the first step, to make casting on easier and to make the end result neater. In the meantime, I also got some more practice using Adobe Illustrator. So I now present to you some updated illustrations of this excellent provisional cast on brought to you by the extremely clever & creative Judy Becker. Blue indicates the working yarn, held with the thumb and wrapped over the top needle. Red indicates the tail, held with the forefinger and wrapped over the bottom needle. Starting position:

Position the 2 tips of a circular cable pointing to the left, and wrap the yarn around the bottom needle like so. (This will become your first cast on stitch.) Hold the working yarn with your thumb. Hold the tail with your forefinger. Step 1: Cast on the first top stitch. Bring the working yarn up behind the bottom needle and in front of the top needle.

Now swing your hand down behind the needles, as shown by the arrow. This will bring the working yarn over and around the top needle. The result will look like this. You have now cast on two stitches: one on the bottom needle, and one on the top needle.

Step 2: Cast on the next bottom stitch. Bring the tail up in front of the bottom needle and behind the top needle.

Step 3: Cast on the next top stitch. Bring the working yarn up behind the bottom needle and in front of the top needle, just as you did in Step 1. Swing your hand down behind the needles... ...and you will have two stitches on each needle. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you have cast on the desired number of stitches. Then you can continue to knit with your working yarn.

Posted by Jeny Staiman at 3:39 PM

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Begin forwarded message:

From: [email protected] Date: February 9, 2011 11:53:24 AM CST To: [email protected] Subject: [toread] Knitty: Winter 2006 - editor (http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwinter06/PATTmonkey.html)

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    <click for more!  

by Cookie A.

I would like to say that I knit these socks because I was inspired by falling leaves, the angles of tree branches as they part from mighty oaks in a V-shape, or allude to poetry and art. But let's face it: the true driving force behind these socks was ADDICTION. There was no other way to get them off my back than to knit them.

It was all very simple. I waded through my stash. I started with yarn, hand dyed in Canada, the birth place of many great yarns. I thought about shapes and angles that would work well with the variegated colors, and voila! The next thing I knew, after weeks of ripping and reknitting and ripping and reknitting (no less than four times, just ask my knitting group), I had a sock.

model: Cookie A. photos: John H., Cookie A.

SIZE Women's medium   FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Circumference: 8 inches, unstretched Foot length: You decide!

  MATERIALS Shelridge Farm Soft Touch Ultra Fingering Weight [100% superwash merino; 194yd/177m per 50g skein]; color: handpainted; 2 skeins

Set of 5 US #2/2.5mm double-point needles Split ring marker or safety pin (optional) Tapestry needle

GAUGE 32 sts/48 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch and Lace Pattern PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

Yo2: Yarn over twice.

Lace Pattern (Worked in the round over a multiple of 16 sts):

Round 1: K all sts.

Round 2: [P4, k8, p4] to end.

Round 3: [P3, k2tog, k3, yo2, k3, ssk, p3] to end.

Round 4: [P3, k5, k1 tbl, k4, p3] to end.

Round 5: [P2, k2tog, k3, yo, k2, yo, k3, ssk, p2] to end.

Round 6: [P2, k12, p2] to end.

Round 7: [P1, k2tog, k3, yo, k4, yo, k3, ssk, p1] to end.

Round 8: [P1, k14, p1] to end.

Round 9: [K2tog, k3, yo, k6, yo, k3, ssk] to end.

Round 10: K all sts.

Round 11: K all sts.

Repeat Rounds 1-11 for Lace Pattern.

Twisted Rib (Worked in the round over an even number of sts):

Round 1: [K1 tbl, p1] to end of rnd. Every round is the same.

Blocking Information about blocking can be found here and here.

Grafting Instructions for grafting can be found here.

  DIRECTIONS

Cuff CO 64 sts. Divide evenly between needles (16 sts on each needle) and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist. After a few rounds have been worked, you may wish to place a split ring marker or safety pin in work to indicate beginning of round.

Work in Twisted Rib until work measures 1 inch.

Leg Work Rounds 1-11 of Lace Pattern 6 times.

Heel Flap First Set-up Row: K16; turn work so that WS is facing.

Second Set-up Row: [Sl 1, p31] onto 1 needle. Heel flap will be worked back and forth on these 32 sts; remaining 32 sts on hold for instep.

Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1, k31. Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1, p31. Repeat these 2 rows 14 times more. There will be 15 slipped sts along each side edge of the heel flap.

Note: If you have a large instep, you may wish to work a longer heel flap, to add height to the foot of the sock. If you do this, be sure to work more gusset decrease rounds accordingly.

Turn Heel Row 1 [RS]: K17, ssk, k1, turn work. Row 2 [WS]: Sl1, p3, p2tog, p1, turn work. Row 3 [RS]: Sl1, k4, ssk, k1, turn work. Row 4 [WS]: Sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn work. Row 5 [RS]: Sl1, k6, ssk, k1, turn work. Row 6 [WS]: Sl1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn work. Row 7 [RS]: Sl1, k8, ssk, k1, turn work. Row 8 [WS]: Sl1, p9, p2tog, p1, turn work. Row 9 [RS]: Sl1, k10, ssk, k1, turn work. Row 10 [WS]: Sl1, p11, p2tog, p1, turn work. Row 11 [RS]: Sl1, k12, ssk, k1, turn work. Row 12 [WS]: Sl1, p13, p2tog, p1, turn work. Row 13 [RS]: Sl1, k14, ssk, k1, turn work. Row 14 [WS]: Sl1, p15, p2tog, p1, turn work. 18 sts remain. Row 15 [RS]: K9. Proceed to gusset.

Gusset Working yarn is currently located at center of heel; this point wll be beginning of round for gusset, foot and toe. When working Round 1 of gusset, needles will be designated Needle 1, Needle 2, etc. They will retain these designation throughout rest of sock.

Round 1: Using Needle 1, k remaining 9 sts of heel flap, pick up and k 15 sts along side edge of heel flap (1 st in each slipped st) and 1 st between top of heel flap and held instep sts; using Needles 2 and 3, k 32 instep sts (Row 1 of Lace Pattern); using Needle 4, pick up and k 1 st between instep sts and top of heel flap, pick up and k 15 sts along side edge of heel flap, k remaining 9 sts of heel flap. 82 sts: 25 sts each on Needles 1 and 4, 16 sts each on Needles 2 and 3.

Round 2: K9, k14 tbl, k2tog; work Round 2 of Lace Pattern over sts on Needles 2 and 3; ssk, k14 tbl, k9.

Round 3: K to end of Needle 1; work next round of Lace pattern over sts on Needles 2 and 3; k to end of Needle 4.

Round 4: K to last 2 sts of Needle 1, k2tog; work next round of Lace pattern over sts on Needles 2 and 3; ssk, k to end of Needle 4.

Repeat Rounds 3 and 4 seven times more. 64 sts; 16 sts on each needle.

Foot Continue in pattern as set, working sts on Needles 1 and 4 in stockinette st and sts on Needles 2 and 3 in Lace Pattern, until work measures approx. 1.5 inches less than desired length, ending with Row 1, 10, or 11 of Lace Pattern.

Toe K 1 round. Decrease Round: K to last 3 sts on Needle 1, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, k to end of Needle 2; k to last 3 sts on Needle 3, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, k to end of Needle 4. Repeat these 2 rounds 8 times more. 28 sts remain.

Using Needle 4, k to end of Needle 1. Slip sts from Needle 2 to Needle 3. Graft sts on Needle 3 to sts on Needle 4.

FINISHING

Weave in all ends and block well.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Cookie is a knitting addict living in Northern California. She is particularly prone to sock yarn impulse purchasing and knitting, has a darling cat named after a mathematician, and is in search of the most whack haircut ever.

She co-blogs on Knitters Anonymous and will set up a website one of these days.

Pattern & images © 2006 Cookie A. Contact Cookie

Amplify’d from www.knitty.com

Shelridge Farm Soft Touch Ultra Fingering Weight [100% superwash merino; 194yd/177m per 50g skein]; color: handpainted; 2 skeins

Set of 5 US #2/2.5mm double-point needles Split ring marker or safety pin (optional) Tapestry needle

MATERIALS

32 sts/48 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch and Lace Pattern

GAUGE

Circumference: 8 inches, unstretched Foot length: You decide!

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

<click for more!  

Cuff CO 64 sts. Divide evenly between needles (16 sts on each needle) and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist. After a few rounds have been worked, you may wish to place a split ring marker or safety pin in work to indicate beginning of round.

Work in Twisted Rib until work measures 1 inch.

Leg Work Rounds 1-11 of Lace Pattern 6 times.

Heel Flap First Set-up Row: K16; turn work so that WS is facing.

Second Set-up Row: [Sl 1, p31] onto 1 needle. Heel flap will be worked back and forth on these 32 sts; remaining 32 sts on hold for instep.

Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1, k31. Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1, p31. Repeat these 2 rows 14 times more. There will be 15 slipped sts along each side edge of the heel flap.

Turn Heel Row 1 [RS]: K17, ssk, k1, turn work. Row 2 [WS]: Sl1, p3, p2tog, p1, turn work. Row 3 [RS]: Sl1, k4, ssk, k1, turn work. Row 4 [WS]: Sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn work. Row 5 [RS]: Sl1, k6, ssk, k1, turn work. Row 6 [WS]: Sl1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn work. Row 7 [RS]: Sl1, k8, ssk, k1, turn work. Row 8 [WS]: Sl1, p9, p2tog, p1, turn work. Row 9 [RS]: Sl1, k10, ssk, k1, turn work. Row 10 [WS]: Sl1, p11, p2tog, p1, turn work. Row 11 [RS]: Sl1, k12, ssk, k1, turn work. Row 12 [WS]: Sl1, p13, p2tog, p1, turn work. Row 13 [RS]: Sl1, k14, ssk, k1, turn work. Row 14 [WS]: Sl1, p15, p2tog, p1, turn work. 18 sts remain. Row 15 [RS]: K9. Proceed to gusset.

Note: If you have a large instep, you may wish to work a longer heel flap, to add height to the foot of the sock. If you do this, be sure to work more gusset decrease rounds accordingly.

Round 1: Using Needle 1, k remaining 9 sts of heel flap, pick up and k 15 sts along side edge of heel flap (1 st in each slipped st) and 1 st between top of heel flap and held instep sts; using Needles 2 and 3, k 32 instep sts (Row 1 of Lace Pattern); using Needle 4, pick up and k 1 st between instep sts and top of heel flap, pick up and k 15 sts along side edge of heel flap, k remaining 9 sts of heel flap. 82 sts: 25 sts each on Needles 1 and 4, 16 sts each on Needles 2 and 3.

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Note: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inch - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.

Gauge: 16 sts x 20 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"] Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows. Pattern: See chart. The chart is showing every row in the pattern seen from the right side Buttonhole: Make buttonholes along right buttonband. 1 buttonhole = bind off the 3rd and 4th sts from front edge and cast on 2 new sts on the next row. The top buttonhole will be made in the collar sts. Make buttonholes when the piece measures: Size XS/S: 1, 9, 16, 24, 31 and 38 cm [3/8" - 3.5" - 6.25" - 9.5" - 12.25" and 14-7/8"]. Size M: 1, 9, 17, 25, 33 and 40 cm [15.75"] [3/8" - 3.5" - 6.75" - 9-7/8" - 13" and 15.75"] Size L/XL: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34 and 41 cm [0.75" - 4" - 7" - 10.25" - 13-3/8" and 16-1/8"]. Knitting tips (for neck): All decs are made from right side. Right front (as when the garment as worn): Dec 1 st as follows: sl 1, K 1, psso. Left front: Dec 1 st as follows: K 2 tog. Seed Stitch (on an even number of sts): Row 1: * K 1, P 1 * Row 2: * P 1, K 1 * Repeat Rows 1-2. ---------------------------------------------------------------- BODY Cast on 145-161-185 sts on smaller needles. Knit 5 rows seed st - make buttonholes on right buttonband - see instructions above. Change to larger needles, placing a marker 39-43-49 sts in from each center front edge (to mark the sides). Establish pattern as follows (right side row): 5 edge sts in seed st, 33-37-43 sts in Pattern 1 - start at appropriate arrow on the chart, 1 st in seed st, 9-7-7 sts stockinette st, then knit Pattern 1 - start at right side of chart, not at arrow - over 58-68-80 sts, 1 st seed st, 9-7-7 sts stockinette st, 24-30-36 sts in Pattern 1 - start at right side of chart, not at arrow - then 5 edge sts in seed st. Continue with pattern as established until the piece measures 10-7-7 cm [4" - 2.75" - 2.75"]. Inc 1 st at each side of side st (st in seed st) every 10-6-6 cm [4" - 2-3/8" - 2-3/8"] 2-4-4 times - knit the increased sts in stockinette st as you go along. After all incs there are 153-177-201 sts on needles and the pattern now continues across all the sts. When the piece measures 30-32-33 cm [11.75" - 12-5/8" - 13"] knit Pattern 2 and then repeat Pattern 3 to finished measurements - start at appropriate arrow on the chart after the button band in seed st. When the piece measures 34-36-37 cm [13-3/8" - 14-1/8" - 14.5"] knit the next row as follows: 38-44-49 sts for the front, bind off 5-5-7 sts for armhole, 67-79-89 sts for the back, bind off 5-5-7 sts for armhole, 38-44-49 sts for the front. Knit each side separately. Left front: = 38-44-49 sts. Read the entire next section before knitting. Armhole: bind off for armhole at the side every other row: 2 sts 0-2-4 times and 1 st 3-4-4 times. Collar: At the same time when the piece measures 35-37-38 cm [13.75" - 14.5" - 14-7/8"] inc 2 sts inside 1 edge st at center front edge, for collar - knit the increased sts for collar in seed st as you go along. Then knit 2 rows seed st only over the outermost 7 sts (button band) - do not knit the remaining sts on the row. These short rows begin the collar shaping. Then inc 1 st inside 1 edge st every row 8 times, then every other row 6 times, then every 4 rows 2 times = 18 sts increased for collar - knit the increased sts in seed st as you go along. Neck shaping: At the same time when the piece measures 39-41-42 cm [15.25" - 16-1/8" - 16.5"] dec for the neckline (while continuing to inc for collar) as follows: dec 1 st inside the seed sts 12 times every other row - see knitting tips. When the piece measures 56-58-60 cm [22" - 22-7/8" - 23-5/8"] bind off the 18-19-20 shoulder sts. Now only the seed sts remain on needles = 23 sts. Continue with seed st over these sts as follows: * 2 rows over all sts, 2 rows over only the outermost 16 sts *, repeat from * - * until the collar measures approx. 8 cm [3-1/8"] or length needed to reach center back. Put sts on a st holder. Right front: = 38-44-49 sts. Knit the same as left front, reversing all shaping, and make buttonholes on button band (see instructions above). Back: = 67-79-89 sts. Bind off for armholes at both sides as on front = 61-63-65 sts. When the piece measures 54-56-58 cm [21.25" - 22" - 22-7/8"] bind off the center 23-23-23 sts for the neck. On the next row dec 1 st at each neck edge. Bind off the remaining 18-19-20 shoulder sts when the piece measures 56-58-60 cm [22" - 22-7/8" - 23-5/8"]. Sleeve: Cast on 38-42-46 sts on smaller needles. Knit seed st for 7 cm [2.75"]. Change to larger needles and Pattern 1 - place the pattern on the sleeve so that there is a single seed st column at the center. When the piece measures 8 cm [3-1/8"] inc 1 st at each side every 6 rows 14-13-12 times = 66-68-70 sts - knit the increased sts in the pattern as you go along. At the same time when the piece measures 46-44-43 cm [18-1/8" - 17.25" - 16-7/8"] knit Pattern 2, then repeat Pattern 3 to finished measurements. When sleeve measures 50-48-47 cm [19.75" - 18-7/8" - 18.5"] bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 3 sts 2-2-1 time, 2 sts 2-2-3 times, 1 st 0-2-4 times, then 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 57-57-58 cm [22.5" - 22.5" - 22-7/8"] and then 3 sts each side 1 time. The piece measures approx. 58-58-59 cm [22-7/8" - 22-7/8" - 23.25"], bind off the remaining sts. Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew the collar together at center back invisibly. Sew the collar to back neck. Sew the sleeve seams and set into Body. Sew on buttons.

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Explanation to pattern diagram

=knit from RS, purl from WS=purl from RS, knit from WS

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm. All measures are from side to side. For conversion from cm to inch - click here.

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Gilly Socks by Lorraine Umbers

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