Hearthian Outer Wilds Crochet Pattern
Last year, I made a Nomai based on @eringurumi's pattern, and I wanted to make a Hearthian to match. Thanks for the inspiration, eringurumi!
This pattern is also available as a paid PDF on Ravelry. (https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/outer-wilds-hearthian-2) The PDF is nicely formatted and has more pictures, and you can purchase it as a way to show your appreciation, but I wanted to make sure there was a free version as well!
Dimensions: 7 inches tall
Crochet hook size F-5 (3.75 mm)
Black safety eyes: two 12-mm eyes and two 8-mm eyes
Worsted weight 4 yarn in the following colors:
Blue (for head, ears, hands, neck)
White or cream (for socks)
Dark gray or black (for belt)
Scrap yarn for clothing patches (I used bits of the above colors, plus a light gray)
Single crochet increase (inc)
Single crochet invisible decrease (dec)
Half double crochet (hdc)
This pattern is written using U.S. crochet pattern conventions.
R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6)
R4: Sc, inc. (sc 2, inc) x5. Sc. (24)
R12: (Sc 3, dec) x6. (24)
R13: Sc, dec. (Sc 2, dec) x5. Sc. (18)
Add safety eyes. I did 12-mm safety eyes between rows 7-8, with 6 stitches between them, and 8-mm safety eyes between rows 9-10 with 5 stitches between them.
Fasten off and weave in end. Add mouth and nose to head using a permanent marker (or, if you prefer, black embroidery thread).
R1: Skip the first two chains. Then sc, hdc, dc, tc, tc, hdc. Fasten off with a tail long enough to sew onto head.
Sew ears onto head. They should cover rows 8-9.
I realized after I made my Hearthian that their ears are quite long. If you’re worried about your Hearthian looking too much like baby Yoda, you can use this alternate, shorter ear pattern. It won’t have quite as defined of a shape, but it should still be ear-like.
R1: Skip the first two chains. Then hdc, dc, tc, hdc. Fasten off with tail long enough to sew onto head.
To make the main body of the doll, you’ll make the left leg separately and fasten off. Then you’ll crochet the right leg and continue crocheting around the left leg without fastening off to connect the two. As you continue crocheting around, you’ll create the torso. In the torso, decreases aren’t marked on specific stitch numbers, but are based on the location on the doll (in the back or front, for example).
You’ll also be making patches on the clothing, using color changes as you crochet, plus whipstitching around with a contrasting color. Keep your yarn needle handy!
R1: With light brown yarn: Sc 6 in magic ring. (6)
R2: Inc, inc, (sc, inc) x2. (10)
R6: Switch to white. Sc around. (10)
R7: Switch to dark brown. Sc around. (10)
Fasten off and stuff the leg.
Right Leg (with knee patch) + Torso:
R1: With light brown yarn: Sc 6 in magic ring. (6)
R2: Inc, inc, (sc, inc) x2. (10)
R6: Switch to white. Sc around. (10)
R7: Switch to dark brown. Sc around. (10)
R8-9: Sc 4, switch to light brown and sc 2, switch back to dark brown and sc 4. (10)
Thread tan-colored yarn on a yarn needle and stitch around the light brown stitches in rows 8-9 to give the appearance of a patch. (Don’t worry about this looking perfect; the Hearthian aesthetic is rather slapdash!) Then stuff the leg, but don’t fasten off.
Now we’re going to attach the two legs together. You may need to add or take away a few single crochets from row 12 to get the start of row 13 in the right place relative to the knee patch. You’ll want your last stitch to be in the center of the back of the doll, with the knee patch at the front. (I did this wrong on my sample doll, which is why the belt and front of my Hearthian’s shirt look crooked instead of straight.)
R13: Ch 1, sl st into a stitch at the back middle of the left leg, and sc around both legs. (20)
R15: Switch to dark gray. Sc around. (20)
R16: Switch to tan. Sc around with a dec behind each leg. (18)
R17: Sc 10, switch to gray and sc 1, then switch back to tan and finish sc around with a dec in back. (17) Note: Don’t feel like you have to put the gray patch exactly on stitch 11; go by what looks right on your doll to place the patch on the right side of their stomach.
R18: Sc 10, switch to gray and sc 2, then switch back to tan and finish sc around with a dec in back. (16)
R19: Sc around with a dec in back. (15)
R20: Sc around with one dec in front and one in back. (13)
Thread dark brown yarn on a yarn needle and stitch around the gray stitches in rows 17-18 to make it look like a patch.
R21: Sc around with a dec in front. (12)
R23: Switch to blue. Dec around. (6)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for connecting the torso to the head. Stuff the body.
R1: With blue yarn: Sc 6 in a magic ring. (6)
R4: Switch to tan. (Inc, sc, sc) x 2. (8)
R1: With blue yarn: Sc 6 in a magic ring. (6)
R4: Switch to tan. (Inc, sc, sc) x 2. (8)
R8-9: Sc 5, switch to green and sc 2, switch back to tan and sc 1. (8)
Fasten off. Thread white yarn on a yarn needle and stitch around the green stitches in rows 8-9 to make it look like a patch.
Stuff and attach arms to body. (To keep the arms from sticking out, I like to press down the open circle of the arm so it’s flat, then sew it to the body with the flat part making the shoulder.)
The cowl is a two-layered square-ish shape, with four corners on each layer. Each time you complete a (sc 3) in one stitch, that will make one of the corners. I varied the lengths in between the corners because I wanted an asymmetrical look, like you’d get from draped fabric. The cowl can look wonky as you’re making it, but once you put it all together, it goes from crazy to cozy!
R0: Note: When you make your opening slip knot, leave a medium-sized tail. With green yarn: Chain 15.
R1: Working only in one loop of the chain stitches, skip first chain, then sc, (sc 3) in one stitch, sc 4, (sc 3) in one stitch, sc 2, (sc 3) in one stitch, sc, (sc 3) in one stitch. Turn. (20)
R2: Ch, sc, (sc 3) in one stitch, sc 3, (sc 3) in one stitch, sc 4, (sc 3) in one stitch, sc 6, (sc 3) in one stitch, sc 2. Turn. (28)
R3: Ch, sc 3, (sc 3) in one stitch, sc 8, (sc 3) in one stitch, sc 6, (sc 3) in one stitch, sc 5, (sc 3) in one stitch, sc 2. (36)
Slip stitch along side until you end up in your starting position (where the tail of your yarn is). Alternately, fasten off and reattach at the starting position.
R4: Working in one loop of your original chain stitches: ch, sc, (sc 3) in one stitch, sc 2, (sc 3) in one stitch, sc 3, (sc 3) in one stitch, sc 3, (sc 3) in one stitch. Turn. (21)
R5: Ch, sc, (sc 3) in one stitch, sc 5, (sc 3) in one stitch, sc 5, (sc 3) in one stitch, sc 4, (sc 3) in one stitch, sc 2. (29)
Fasten off, leaving a medium length tail.
Your work may look quite skewampus at this point, but if you fold rows 4-5 over rows 1-3, you’ll end up with a nice two-layered cowl.
I wanted the cowl to be removable, so after putting it on my Hearthian, I used the yarn tails to tie it on with a simple bow in the back (easy to remove). If you want the cowl to be permanent, you can stitch the opening of the cowl together with a yarn needle after putting it on your Hearthian’s shoulders.
All done! Let me know how yours turns out, and good luck on your journey, fellow traveler!
blakekathryn
vaporwave
gamechangershow
titsay
