Salty Cimol

Hi, everyone! I got many questions about the gloves and nails, so i tried to create a little “tutorial”.I use basic patterns for gloves, but made the fingertips  longer. Then I sewed the gloves, but left the fingrtips unsewn. Then I glued fake nails from the inside of the gloves to one side. Cut other side of the fingertip and glued it… hope my horrible drawing will help to better understand XDD

UtaPri April Fools 2018 Shining Quest - Archer Mikaze Ai in Fire Emblem GBA style

I'm using this FE character creator by TheFlyingMinotaur and then edit it a little bit (i think i forgot to edit the token one)

.

EDIT:

IF YOU’RE NOT SUPER OCD LIKE ME YOU CAN USE FABRIC PAINT TO PAINT IN THE DETAILS. I JUST FOUND OUT ABOUT FABRIC PAINT AND I’M SO MAD. 

EDIT EDIT:

you can also check out queen-of-puns tutorial HERE

I thought I’d make some notes for people who were interested in making the Fire Emblem Avatar Cosplay :) I’m a complete amateur myself, but I hope I can write something coherent. 

This is going to be pretty long, so more under the cut

break down post of how i made my henry! there’s a few confusing parts to making him so hopefully this will help anyone planning to cosplay him /////

1. [the collar and neck piece] -the collar is basically two layers of fabric with sew on interfacing in between. no wiring because i wanted a more natural shape. it’s detachable since it’s almost possible or difficult to make it actually attached to the cape without looking weird. i basically cut it in the shape shown in the picture and added notches/slits in the neck area so i can fold the sew allowance under the neck piece so it’ll look like it’s an actual collar. the edges are understitched for a clean and crisp look! -the neck piece is two layers of craft foam sealed, primed and spray painted with a top coat of varnish to leave it shiny and durable. i cut out the details with an extra sharp exacto knife to ensure clean edges without having to use a dremmel. don’t forget the backing of the neck piece since that’s what keeps the collar up! (not shown) the dangling pieces are beads from joanns that look similar, i strung a wire through them so i can hang them on the collar. the collar and neck piece were hot glued together so i don’t have to constantly adjust the collar. (i hot glued the seam allowance and wrapped it under the neck piece) 2. [shirt and sleeves] -the lines in the shirt are made by folding in the fabric and sewing 4mm away from the fold line. picture shows how the folds look on the wrong side of the fabric. -the ends of the sleeves are cut into a V shape and sewn onto the sleeve. the ring is a piece of gold trim hand sewn onto the sleeve. 3. [skirt] i basically cut a rectangle ish shape for the skirt. cut two layers, sewed them together and understitched. then i basically bunched up the fabric to make a guideline for gathers. there’s an elastic between to keep the skirt from opening too wide. 4. [belt] the belt is two layers of fabric with interfacing in between. the gold is gold trim easily found at joanns! the belt buckle is a giant button wrapped in gold pleather (i used contact cement) 5. [symbols] the symbols were designed by me in adobe illustrator and then sent to a vinyl plotter to cut

I finally got around to fixing this and making it into a line art! I really love doing half body poses like this, they can be so intimate.

Hi!! Thank you for liking my art!!

Unfortunately I don’t have color theory or a proper procedure to back me up when it comes to coloring but I’ll try to explain the best I can.

The two main questions I ask myself when I want to color are:

What sort of mood do I want this picture to have?

What colors do I feel like using today?

The mood is one of the easiest ways to decide on colors, because some colors are very good at portraying basic moods. A cold feeling can be shown with blues, warmth expressed through oranges. But remember that these colors don’t always have to be used for a singular mood, it’s merely a starting point.

the image on the left is mostly oranges and yellows but it’s not supposed to feel warm because our subject is left in the dark. On the other hand, the image on the right purposefully uses blues and purples as an easy way to keep a cold pale feeling.

So then it boils down to what colors you’d like to use today, and from there you can proportion out what the values of each color should be, for example, do you want to use blue and pink? Will pink be the main color or will it be blue?

Left: Teals are the base, red is the accent. Right: Reds are the base, blue is an accent.

Mixing cool and warm colors! In this image below I have dark browns and dark blues that comprise of the dark shadows. At the same time I also have teal as the highlights as well as pinks and purples. 

The base color is what I selected at the start and my other colors are revolved around it. Notice how each warm color has a cool color with the same brightness/saturation that matches it. You can achieve this by just spinning the color wheel. I also like to have very small quantities of bright colors just to add a whimsical touch. 

Both images have the same highlight tone, but the feeling is different because of the colors I chose. My intermediate color (that I put in between my brightest and darkest color) is almost always purple or brown. But in the left picture I used a very dark yellow as the darkest shade, in the right, I used a dark blue.

Basically, You don’t have to limit yourself to shading with the same tones, mix it up a little!!

If you want to challenge yourself, something I used to do but not really anymore is choose a base color, pick two colors that are similar to your base color (pink is close to purple and yellow), and a 4th color from across the color wheel (blue is almost exactly across the color wheel). The role of each color can vastly change based on where you want to put them. This is a poor example but these two images have the same base color, what I switched up were the other colors. Since I use a painting style, I rely on the eyedrop after I blend colors together, that way they can work better.

hi anon! here are the two brushes i use the most

1. marker tool. I use this a lot for blocking in colors, it sort of blends but not a lot, the shape is square so its not something I use for lining/detailing but its fun for sketching and setting base colors. I also like it for backgrounds because it can do blocks (house silhouettes) really easily.

2. Brush tool. I use this for neater lines, I also do details with this one because it does not blend. 

I can do whole pictures with mostly marker or mostly brush so it really depends on what I feel works best? 

Side note, I have posted my brush settings before, in my tips and tutorial tag, if there are any other questions you have regarding my art it would be cool if you check that out first. Feel free to send an ask if your question hasn’t been asked before though!

I have some hours before work so I’ll use them to actually detail why I’ve found CSPaint to be so efficient for bastard-aligned painters who like to take shortcuts.

This will seem familiar to most of you guys, but this functions a little bit different from Photoshop. It turns everything you draw on the layer into editable curves, but retains the aliased smoothness of an ordinary raster layer. Practically a cheat to access the whole suite of amazing tools CS offers for lineart. Such as:

The vector eraser is The Best™. You can be as messy as possible and this tool erases the excess. One pen-flick and it’s done. Much faster than cleaning it up by hand. You can also tweak the settings of this brush to encapsulate more/less lines as you erase but that’s getting a little more involved. Anyway, last thing:

Maybe the only thing better than the vector eraser. There are multiple settings, but these three are the most handy. You can smooth wiggly edges, connect broken strokes, and tweak the width/weight to exactly how you want it. This also has a ton of settings you can play around with. It’s great!