Broseidon's Fine Wears

Hey dudes~ so someone asked if i was willing to share my armor patterns, and the answer is HELL YEAH.

So, here’s the dealio with these: 

1. I used a dress form sized to me to make these.

( that’s  5″5, ~150lbs, 39-40″ at the bust lv,32″ at the waist.and 16″ across the shoulders.)

they can resize, but that’s on you. ;D

know your measurements, know where things line up.

2. These are designed with EVA foam as the intended material. Stuffed fabric could also work. (maybe.)

3. I’m all for sharing creativity, but for frack or quiznak sake, don’t repost and say you made these. don’t remove the text. its irritating and ugly fine, but the notes on the armor are important. 

(it will confuse people and hurt my feelings okay? let’s be a cool fandom everyone.)

Let’s start!

I recommend using a ruler. since this is on pattern paper (a godsend, btw) the distance between the little blue marks is all a perfect square inch.

the EASIEST way to achieve symmetry is to do one half and fold and copy it to the other. 

*I haven’t done the V shape yet, but can add it later or just make a proper tutorial thing.

Note: registration marks! also, this is designated as the LEFT shape, and connecting to the BACK piece of the armor. not the front. (flip it over and you got the right side!)

Now, I realized after cutting the foam and making sure i can get my head through the hole, this could get interesting really quick when getting the chest piece on and off, especially since my suit zips up the back…

SOLUTION: DO. NOT. GLUE. THE. BACK. PIECE. TO THE SIDES.

(or do, if you can fit. I can’t. broad shoulders.)

instead,on the back, I’m going to glue/staple/glue some black stretch fabric, and shape the gap to fit at an angle. it should sit flat when in place, and stretch when you need it to.

that way, you can get it on and off easily. 

**I will update on how this goes. 

this is where folding the pattern for symmetry is REALLY handy.

and a good example of how great this paper is.

the length of my guard is 20 inches.it lines up with the marks on the torso pieces.

the line going across as labeled is the light level. (EL tape goes there! diffuse your LED’s guys! be careful of your circuits!)

I still need to figure out the shoulder pieces, but this is what i got so far!

ALSO:

for anyone new to EVA foam:

https://www.youtube.com/user/evilted40/featured

Evil Ted Smith’s youtube channel is a friggn gold mine, guys.

if you do use EVA, please be careful. its difficult to cut, foam gives off fumes when heated or burned, and knives are sharp and most dangerous when slightly dull. use a dremel to fix an edge, not a knife. (it wont work.)

I’d also be happy to make a tutorial for using a dress form for this kind of thing!

How to make custom lace appliques – the “Frankenlace” method

A lot of people asked for more info on how I made the appliques that decorate the bottom of Zelda’s gown. Here’s my tutorial for the whole process! This method can be used to make all kinds of applique shapes and designs if you get creative with it.

These lace appliques are made out of other lace – hence the nickname. To get started, you’ll need to collect a few lace trims to use as raw material. Look for styles that are similar or complement each other, because you’ll be combining them. This is some, but not all, of the trims I used. I bought these in the LA fabric district, but most are available at trimexpoonline.com.

Cut your lace down into smaller pieces that are more modular. Don’t cut up ALL your lace – this is just an experimentation stage, to practice rearranging the design.

Using a template of your desired shape (I made mine digitally, but you can hand draw one too) practice arranging your pieces until you find a design that suits your needs. This is not my final design in the picture – I went through several versions before I was totally happy with how it looked. You might discover that you need more lace, which is why planning and experimentation are so important. When you’re satisfied with how it looks, it’s time to start putting it all together.

You’ll need an embroidery hoop large enough to cover your whole template, plus some netting that is as close to transparent as you can find. Most generic tulle is NOT fine enough to do well with this technique – the holes are too large and the tulle stretches too much when handled. Look for netting that does not stretch or fray, if possible. Put some netting in your embroidery hoop, tightening the surface like a drum. I taped my template to a small sheet of masonite to give myself a portable work surface. I also ended up using clamps to hold the embroidery hoop to the masonite, but forgot to get a picture. This is optional, but really helps the design from shifting too much as you work.

Tools for the next step: fabric glue (other brands work too), a small paintbrush, and a water cup. I watered my glue down a little to make it easier to spread with the paintbrush. Be careful not to add TOO much water, or your glue will be too thin, not grip well, and take a long time to dry.

Working in small sections, begin gluing your lace pieces onto the netting. Start at the center and work outward, if possible. Continue until all your lace pieces are glued onto the netting.

Here’s what mine looked like with all the lace attached! At this point, I flipped the embroidery hoop over and applied a second coat of glue over the entire back of the work. The netting is so thin that you can continue to apply more glue from the backside to get a more secure grip.

Optional: add rhinestones to taste. I used E6000 for this step. Not every applique requires rhinestones, but in this case I wanted Zelda to sparkle as much as possible.

Repeat to create as many appliques as you need! Zelda has 8 along the bottom of her dress. Here’s part of my assembly line.

When you’re ready to attach the applique to your fashion fabric, trim away some of the netting along the outside, but leave any “interior” portions that help stabilize the design. I simply glued my appliques onto the silk, but I later went back and hand-stitched them down for a more secure hold. After they are properly attached to your fabric, you can VERY CAREFULLY trim away the “interior” pockets of plain netting using small scissors.

The final look of my gown, after all the appliques and trim were attached.

This method is very time consuming and requires a lot of patience and concentration – but I just love the results! I wanted to achieve the look of professionally-made applique, but without access to industrial equipment, this was the next best thing I could come up with. 

The white-on-white effect is subtle, but matches the look I was going for. Photo by Vontography.

When the night has come And the land is dark And the moon is the only light we’ll see Final Fantasy XV cosplay Noctis ◆ Jin (me) | behindinfinity | FB Ignis ◆ Miguel | merkymerx | FB Prompto ◆ Gax | FB Gladio ◆ A.C. | FB video by Paolo Mañalac

Ignis “Salt Bae” Scientia

Somebody please stop him from seasoning everything they kill

Final Fantasy XV cosplay Ignis • Miguel (merkymerx) | fb | ig Noctis • Jin (behindinfinity) | fb | ig photography • Reskiy

Dee - Rat Queens (Geek Girl Con 2016)

I keep forgetting to post the rest of these. Here’s more images from the shoot I did at Geek Girl Con with @sisterite of Giosia Photography

Love love love them.