Pete Jacobson

Whenever I hear somebody’s headed to my beloved Lisboa, I put something together for them (having spent 6 months there in 2017). Not sure how long this will take to be outdated, but here it is...

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I recommend checking out Cafe Versailles in Campo Grande for lunch. Sit outside if the weather is nice, people-watch inside, order delicious fresh fish and save room for a pastry or two.  

Check out the miradouros at Del Sol (above Alfama, you can take the streetcar up there, there’s music and a Quiosque for a beer or espresso) and at Santa Catarina (less touristy/commercial more locals, people bring beer or smokes of all types and there’s a Quiosque there too, often live music, tons of people come at sunset).  

Intendente has gotten quite hopping, you can have a meal there (from brunch to late night drinks at Independente which is v. cool bar) then go to Bar Topo at Martim Moniz for another great rooftop view and more drinks… 

There’s another great bar also called Topo, but it’s in Chiado and called, naturally, Topo Chiado. The view there is also fabulous and it’s in the courtyard of an old cathedral, really cool spot although the entrance can be hard to find, you have to take an elevator up (not the funicular, which is right across the alley).  

I would also recommend Cafe Buenos Aires in Chiado, not because it’s such amazing food but because walking there will take you through some interesting areas. Not that it’s bad either!  

I used to like to post up in Padaria Tartine right near the Baixa Chiado station - good pastries, food, internet. Also Fabrica is a hip coffee shop (can be hard to get a table though). And this is pretty well documented everywhere but Cafe À Brasileira is a famous (and beautiful) old school coffee shop where the last century’s poets used to meet up, I recommend a visit. The statue in front of it is their national poet Fernando Pessoa (that is probably not an official designation but ask anybody). It is a lovely walk down to Praça do Comercio from Tartine BTW.

A must-do is to have a shot (or 3) of Ginjinha (sour cherry liqueur) in Alfama or at A Ginjinha in Rossio. I recommend getting “com eles” (with “them” i.e. with cherries in it, they are slightly sour which adds to the flavor). 

Regardless, be sure to wander around Alfama and maybe eat at one of the Fado cafés there (in the evening when you can hear Fado). The Fado museum is not a bad choice (there are better but it depends on the night).  

Pink Street is crazy party street, I totally recommend a drink or two at Pensao Amor, the atmosphere is super funky - it’s a former whorehouse and they kept that whole vibe (there’s even a sex toys shop in there!). There is great gelato on the corner of the nearby plaza too. That area is right next to TimeOut Market which I’m sure you’ll be checking out (be brave and try some percebes, i.e. barnacles - yes it’s true).  

It’s a great walking city and easy to discover lovely parks, all of which have these quiosques now for refresher or snack, they aren’t half bad and can sometimes be great.