Five-striped Palm Squirrel
Squirrels belong to a larger family of small or medium-sized rodents known as the Sciuridae. The five-striped palm squirrel, also known as the Northern palm squirrel, inhabits a large part of North India, as its name suggests. It constitutes a large part of our urban wildlife and makes itself at home around virtually every part of human settlement.
These squirrels posses a body that is about the size of a rat, accompanied by a bushy tail. It gets its name from the five stripes of a light grey that intersperse the darker grey-brown tone of its fur coat. Three of these stripes run from head to tail. On the underside is a belly that is off-white in colour. Their facial features are characteristic of the rodent family with whiskers, beady black eyes and ears that are like a rounded triangle.
Their nests are made of grassy fibre, sometimes along with bits of fabric available to them from their surroundings. They reach sexual maturity at nine months and often give birth in litters of two or three.
What a lot of people don’t know, is that the Indian subcontinent is home to different types of squirrels-
The five-striped palm squirrel (also called Northern palm squirrel) distributed over a large part of northern India and the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, the three-striped palm squirrel (also called the Indian palm squirrel) found south of the Vindhyas and Sri Lanka, the jungle palm squirrel (also called the western ghats squirrel) found in subtropical or tropical dry forests and plantations in the western ghats, the dusky palm squirrel found in some parts of India and Sri Lanka.
Identifying the age of a squirrel
0-1 weeks: Completely pink skin exposed, with no signs of fur. Their eyes are closed, ears haven’t pricked up yet and their tail is ratty.
1-2 weeks: Some fur begins to appear and the demarcation of stripes starts to become visible. They rely on their mother for warmth.
2-4 weeks: Their eyes should now be open and their ears prick up. They start responding to their surroundings.
5-6 weeks: Their personality is slightly more curious and playful. The fur on their body is more dense.
7-8 weeks: They begin to gnaw at things as they teeth and their movements become more rapid.
8-12 weeks: They start to resemble adult squirrels and their coats develop a glossy sheen.
Baby squirrels are often displaced. It may be due to human intervention or because of predators like crows or cats. If you do chance upon a baby squirrel that has fallen out of its nest or seems to be abandoned, the best thing to try and do, is restore it to its nest. Before you decide to intervene, make sure your aid and intervention are absolutely necessary. Often you will hear the baby give out a ‘distress call’ and the mother is likely to respond. Keep the baby on a clean cloth where the mother can see it and watch from a safe distance for predators. If you stand too close to the baby, the mother squirrel will be too scared to come close. Keep an eye for predators until you know that both squirrels are likely to be safe. If you find a squirrel baby at dusk, it is best to take it inside and try to return it back to its mother early the next morning. If you are sure the squirrel baby has been abandoned and is too small to fend for itself, take it into your home.
-Shoe box, at least 6 inches in height
-Thick/warm towel or blanket/fleece
-Hot water bag or heating pad (cold climate)
-Beaphar Lactol (comes with a feeding bottle)
-Syringe 2ml-5ml (without needle)
Newborn squirrels are completely dependent on their mother for warmth. Up until the point that fur starts to appear on their bodies, they are even more fragile and susceptible and lack of warmth can prove fatal. The baby’s environment shouldn’t be too hot either. This will again cause discomfort and lead to complications because they cannot regulate their body temperature (lack of thermoregulation).
If the orphaned squirrel is below 4 weeks old, you can house it in a shoe box. Pierce the box with enough holes so that it remains well ventilated, but doesn’t allow drafts of cold air. Line it with a newspaper and on top of that a thick/warm napkin or towel. Make sure you lay it in a way that it has a few folds, into which the baby squirrel can snuggle. In case of cold weather, you can use bits of an old blanket or fleece, which is very warm. Hot water bags can also be introduced in this scenario, but make sure it has been wrapped in at least two layers of cloth, so as not to burn the baby. Heating pads may also be used. In both cases, make sure there is constant supervision.
If the baby squirrel is slightly older than 4 weeks, you can use the same bedding materials and house it in a basket (wicker or plastic) that is well ventilated. They must now to allowed to explore their surroundings before you return them to their box/basket. Gradually increase their time away from the basket and let them roam.
They must be kept in a very hygienic environment (since they are so fragile and can catch an infection easily), so change the bedding often. This also helps because some squirrels may have fleas or mites.
Sometimes if a squirrel is too small to groom itself, it may have mites or fleas in excess- Do not put any sort of flea powder on them and do not bathe them. Consult a veterinarian for possible solutions- they will best advise you on how to tackle this problem. Don’t leave it unattended to because it may lead to a bad infestation and harm the squirrel.
We have tried introducing small stuffed toys into their box/basket, which some squirrels enjoy curling around. Again, make sure it is something that can be cleaned and not something in which they can get tangled. An observation we’ve made over the years, is that squirrels like body heat and given a chance, will be more than happy to snooze in the palm of your hand.
When they are about 7-8 weeks old, they can be introduced into an enclosed room (free from any predators) with windows (which should be closed initially). Keep their box/basket open in the room. This way, they can explore and return to a secure space when they please.
What we also do often is fold half of the curtain, to create a space in the middle where the squirrel can tuck itself in. This has proven to be popular with most all of them. If you have expensive curtains, you may want to avoid this since they may gnaw at most anything. They like dark and snug spaces so feel free to add things they might enjoy nesting in.
Opinions on what to feed a baby squirrel are varied. While we will share with you, what has worked for us over the years, we strongly recommend that you consult a Vet about the type of food, quantities, intervals and supplements if any.
What we have been using, is Beaphar’s Lactol, which is a milk replacer (for puppies) fortified with vitamins. It is easily available in pet stores in most Indian cities. If you can’t find Lactol, look for KMR or any puppy/kitten milk replacer. It is a bit expensive- Approximately 500 rupees for a 250g pack, but squirrels find it hard to digest cow/buffalo milk. On the up side, it comes with a feeding bottle that is pretty handy.
All equipment used for feeding must be cleaned thoroughly with hot water before feeds. Wash with hot water and don’t use any detergent since it is stubborn and not easy to wash off. Dispose the syringe periodically and replace it with a new one.
The instructions on the lactol box say 30g powder for 105ml of water, which means roughly 0.25g powder for 1ml of water. Measure out 0.25g lactol powder in a 2ml syringe (till the 0.25ml mark) and measure 1ml of warm (not hot or boiling) water. Mix both together till the powder has dissolved completely. The consistency should be that of milk and all lumps must be dissolved.
Pour it into a clean 2ml syringe and make sure it is about body temperature before feeding. It is best to make the mixture fresh each time, because it can go stale after a period of time. This could affect the baby squirrel adversely and lead to complications.
Note: Overfeeding comes with its own problems, like diarrhea, so it is always better to give small, frequent feeds rather than feed too much at a time.
Often a baby squirrel may be dehydrated by the time you rescue it. A characteristic of this condition is its skin being wrinkled- if pinched (very gently) takes a while to settle down. Many people suggest that is it better to rehydrate a squirrel using a solution of pedialyte before starting it on regular feeds. If pedialyte isn’t readily available, add 1 teaspoon salt plus 2-3 teaspoons of sugar or Glucon D to one litre of water and mix well (recommended by someone who has raised many squirrels). Feed it small frequent feeds until it appears well hydrated (resumes normal behaviour, is not lethargic, skin is plump) and then start it on regular feeds. If you have a Vet’s number handy, it is best to ask their advice on the subject.
Around the age of 5-6 weeks, you can introduce bits of apple, banana, grape and bits of marie biscuit made soggy (with formula) into the squirrels diet. The process of weaning can commence when the squirrel is about 8 weeks of age. This is achieved by very gradually reducing the quantity of formula and replacing it with solid foods. You begin offering a variety of fruits and nuts, even bits of marie biscuit. Encourage it to eat on its own and keep a bowl of fresh water available to it at all times. Reduce the amount of formula such that by the age of 12 weeks, it is completely weaned.
The best way to feed a squirrel, we’ve found, is with the help of a 2ml disposable syringe- easily available at a regular chemist. They can be easily sterilised (very essential) before feeds and the flow of formula can be controlled so that the baby squirrel doesn’t aspirate.
‘Pinkies’, as they are commonly referred to (0-1 weeks, no fur and closed eyes), are so tiny, that feeding them can pose a challenge. In this case you can purchase a ‘scalp vein set’, discard the needle, attach it to the nozzle of the syringe and cut the pipe about half a centimeter from the nozzle. This makes it easier to feed something so tiny, without letting it aspirate.
Push the plunger down very slowly, especially if the baby is less than a week old. In the case of ‘pinkies’ release no more than a tiny drop at a time. When they are slightly older they will get used to feeding by this method.
Baby squirrels should be fed while resting on their stomach and not on their back. Set it on its stomach, raise its head slightly and gently insert the tip of the syringe or pipe into its mouth. Apply just enough pressure on the plunger to release a tiny drop of milk at a time. The baby should be able to suckle on its own after a bit. Remember, the smaller the baby, the slower you depress the plunger.
Once again, do not overfeed and don’t feed too quickly. If the squirrel aspirates, it can cause pneumonia and excess consumption will cause diarrhea. Keep an eye on its nose- if bubbles start to come out of its nose, means the formula is flowing too fast.
We know that this can be overwhelming for a person who has never done it before- if you can, ask someone with a fair bit of experience, or a Vet to demonstrate how it is done.
You can download the printable version of the chart from the links given below -
Note: 0.1 ml equals 2 drops.
1ml equals (roughly) 18-20 drops
*Mix 0.25g powder to 1 ml water, until dissolved. | In essence a ration of 1:4 (water to powder respectively).
Completely pink skin exposed with no signs of fur. Their eyes are closed, ears haven’t pricked up yet and their tail is ratty.
What to feed: Milk replacer formula such as Lactol.
No. of feeds (in 24 hrs): About 9 feeds
Interval: Round the clock- 2-2.5 hours in the day, 3-4 hours at night
Amount per feed: About 0.1ml, gradually increased to 0.2ml by the end of week one.
The baby should look slightly healthier (more plump), the skin changes to a darker pink with the stripes more prominent and the emergence fur is seen.
What to feed: Milk replacer formula such as Lactol.
No. of feeds (in 24 hrs): About 8 feeds
Interval: Round the clock- 2.5-3 hours in the day, 4-5 hours at night
Amount per feed: Start with 0.2ml, increase by one drop every alternate day. By the end of week two- 0.4ml
After 14 days their eyes should start to open, the pink exposed skin will disappear
What to feed: Milk replacer formula such as Lactol. 10% of a boiled egg-yellow can be introduced in two feeds (mix into formula) of the day.
No. of feeds (in 24 hrs): About 7 feeds
Interval: Round the clock- 2.5-3 hours in the day, 6 hours at night
Amount per feed: At the end of the week it should consume about 1ml-1.5ml
Their ears will have pricked up, they respond to their surroundings and are more coordinated in their movements
What to feed: Milk replacer formula such as Lactol. Increase the amount of boiled egg-yellow and spread it over three feeds (mix into formula) of the day. Introduce bits of grape, apple, banana for it to nibble on. Make fresh water available at all times.
No. of feeds (in 24 hrs): About 5-6 feeds
Interval: Round the clock- 3 hours in the day, 7-8 hours at night
Amount per feed: At the end of the week it should consume about 2ml-2.5ml
They are more alert and their movements become more rapid.
What to feed: Milk replacer formula such as Lactol. Increase the amount of boiled egg-yellow and spread it over three feeds (mix into formula) of the day. Introduce bits corn (it can be frozen corn, brought to room temperature by soaking in hot water) and harder fruit along with grape, apple, banana for it to nibble on. Add marie biscuits made soggy with formula. Make food and fresh water available at all times.
No. of feeds (in 24 hrs): About 5-6 feeds
Interval: Round the clock- 4 hours in the day, 8 hours at night
Amount per feed: At the end of the week it should consume about 3ml-4ml
They become rather playful and curious, scamper about and start teething (given them things to gnaw on).
What to feed: Milk replacer formula such as Lactol. Increase the amount of boiled egg-yellow and spread it over three feeds (mix into formula) of the day. Introduce bits corn, melon, chikoo, grape, apple, banana for it to nibble on. Add pieces of marie biscuit and some nuts like sunflower seeds, cashews, sesame seeds. Make food and fresh water available at all times.
No. of feeds (in 24 hrs): About 4 feeds
Interval: Round the clock- 4 hours in the day, 8-10 hours at night
Amount per feed: At the end of the week it should consume about 5ml.
They should be considerably bigger from when you got them. Squirrels are very playful and affectionate so make sure you give them a lot of attention and indulge in the aforementioned.
What to feed: Milk replacer formula such as Lactol. Increase the amount of boiled egg-yellow and spread it over three feeds (mix into formula) of the day. Introduce bits corn, melon, chikoo, grape, apple, banana for it to nibble on. Add pieces of marie biscuit and some nuts like sunflower seeds, cashews, sesame seeds. Make food and fresh water available at all times.
No. of feeds (in 24 hrs): About 3-4 feeds
Interval: morning, afternoon, evening
Amount per feed: At the end of the week it should consume about 6ml-7ml
Starts to resemble an adult squirrel
What to feed: Milk replacer formula such as Lactol. Increase the amount of boiled egg-yellow and spread it over three feeds (mix into formula) of the day. Introduce bits corn, melon, chikoo, grape, apple, banana for it to nibble on. Add pieces of marie biscuit and some nuts like sunflower seeds, cashews, sesame seeds. Make food and fresh water available at all times.
No. of feeds (in 24 hrs): About 2 feeds
Interval: morning and evening
Amount per feed: At the end of the week it should consume about 7ml
By the end of the third month, the squirrel should be completely weaned. Make all the aforementioned foods and water available at all times.
They will spend most of the day exploring outdoors and will only return, possibly at night, so leave lots of food and water available at all time. The visits will get more scarce and short as they learn to fend for themselves. At this point we also start putting food outside the window, just on the ledge, for rehabilitation purposes.
Note: Squirrels need sufficient calcium and vitamin D, lack of which will cause them to have seizures and bone deformities. Which is why, we recommend a good milk replacer. Do ask the Vet for additional supplements. Often we’ve added a probiotic like Sporlac (a good aid for digestion and is available in sachets) to their meals. However, do so only after consulting with your Vet.
Elimination (the word on poo)
Young squirrels are normally aided by their mother when it comes to defecating. In case of an orphaned/rescued squirrel, a cotton ball or tissue will have to be wet with warm water and used to massage (be very gentle) the urinary orifice and anus. This should help the process of elimination. Make sure the baby is completely dry when you put it back in its box. By the time they are three to four weeks old, they should be able to eliminate by themselves.
Keep an eye on the poop because it’s a good indicator of whether you need to change consistency or quantity of the feed- if on a milk replacer diet, it tends to be yellow-ish and if solids have been introduced it will be a brown-black. However, it should never be runny. If you observe that it is so, contact a vet immediately.
Like we said before, when they are about 8 weeks old, they can be introduced into an enclosed room (free from any predators) with windows (which should be closed initially). Keep their box/basket open in the room. This way, they can explore and return to a secure space when they please (check the Shelter section for more details).
At about 14-16 weeks of age, the process of rehabilitation has to begin. It has to be a gradual process to make sure that the squirrel is well fed and discovering the outside world simultaneously. What we do at this stage is, open the window a tad (just enough for a squirrel to go in and out). Check the surroundings for predators and make sure the squirrel has a safe passage to go in and out of the room at all times. Sometimes structures can be added to make this process easier.
Leave plenty of food and water on the window sill, at first inside the room, then on the ledge outside.
As the squirrel becomes more adept at fending for itself, its visits will become shorter and more scarce. Initially it may come back several times in the day and then just for the nights. At the end of 16 weeks, the squirrel may return only occasionally. When this does happen, all the sleep deprived nights and months of fretting and fussing over the most minute things, will be worth it.
Note: Remember at all times that squirrels are after all rodents and they can carry rabies. If bitten, it is best to see a doctor.
There is a lot of information provided here has been put together based on what we thought were reliable sources and also from experience. However, this is no substitute for a consultation with a vet. Please to consult a vet at the earliest and run all the information by them.
If you find an adult squirrel that is unable to scamper away or is injured, make sure you catch it with a pair of oven-mitts or a towel and rapidly transport it to a basket or box that has been made ready (as described in the shelter section). Adult squirrels can bite if they feel threatened.
In case of any injury, please contact a Vet or an animal shelter at the earliest. Also, as soon as you find a baby squirrel, it is best to have it checked by the Vet, to make sure there are no internal injuries.
Note: Squirrels need to constantly gnaw at things because their teeth are always growing. It is very important to provide bits of wood and sticks to them. Not doing so can cause serious problems to their teeth.
Albinism, though rare, does exist in squirrels.
*This post was constructed for a five-striped palm squirrel, because that's what we've had the most experience with. However, if you do rescue another type of squirrel, the same information should apply. It will be best if you check with the Vet though, before administering anything to the rescued squirrel.
Pencil illustration of adult squirrel
Art Director: Dhun Karkaria
Illustrator: Vijay Shrimali
Pencil illustration of juvenile squirrel
Art Director: Dhun Karkaria
Illustrator: Vijay Shrimali