Perch Project

It's that time of year again - Uttarayan is round the corner. While some of you fly, some of us are going to be helping those that cannot. 

Help us get the word around by sharing the poster (we have a new one this year!) and instructional we have up on Perch? Also, if you spot a bird that has injured itself and cannot fly, please do call the relevant helpline. 

Show some love? 

Udne do.

HELPLINE NUMBERS (Ahmedabad):  

+91 814 156 5606 

+91 787 817 1727 

+91 812 825 7004

Perch turns two! Just the number of crunches, The Fat Bird can do.

Passer domesticus (Linnaeus)

Male House Sparrow

Female House Sparrow 

Once abundant, House Sparrows were spotted within homes, nesting on the old bulbous fans, behind wall-hung frames or in any holes in ceilings. At some places, they were even considered pests. As we took their sheer number for granted, the sparrow population has dwindled significantly. What was once a common sight, is now limited to certain kirana stores and airports, among other locations. 

House Sparrows are still one of the most widely recognised birds in our context, along with House Crows, Blue Rock Pigeons and Mynas. Their populations is spread across different parts of the world - be it hills, plains, farms or urban areas with a dense human population. They seem most comfortable around human habitation and are considered omnivores. They are known to feed on everything, from grains and small insects, to fruit, flower nectar and bits from your kitchen. We’d encourage you to place grains and bits of biscuits, rusks, (it isn’t an uncommon sight in Gujarat, to see birds eating ganthiya), dry scraps from the kitchen, along with big pots of water, around your house. Most birds love a good bath! Their nesting season is almost year round, so we urge you also, to buy/make little birdhouses that would perhaps help increase their numbers once more. Size: In a bird book, it states that they’re smaller than a Bulbul (‘Bulbul-‘), they measure about 15cm or 6 inches. This is of course, as far as adult sparrows go.

Characterised by: The male and female sparrows are quite different in terms of their markings and colouration. The male sparrow has a dark brown tail, a grey-ish underbelly and the upper back, sides of the neck and region behind the eye are all of a chestnut colour. He has a grey crown atop his head and a small black patch around the eyes, extending to the nostril (also know as lore- Lore (adj. loreal) pertains to the region between the eyes and nostrils of birds, reptiles, and amphibians.) The back is between a rufous (Rufous /ˈruːfəs/ is a colour that may be described as reddish-brown or brownish-red, as of rust or oxidised iron) chestnut, with some streaks of black. There’s a tiny white patch or streak on shoulder wing. The female sparrow has a grey-brown patch atop its head. Its back is a grey-brown too, with streaks of black and rufous. It has a (dulled) tawny stripe, which runs from the base of its beak above its eye, finishing somewhere towards the rear of its head. The underbelly is a muddy grey. Should you find an orphaned sparrow, we urge you to first try your best to find and return it to its nest. We cannot emphasise this enough, as this is its best chance for survival. If you’re unable to do the above, then here are a few pointers on how to care for them.

HOUSING While growing up, birds depend largely on their parent and siblings for warmth. Sparrows are tiny birds, making them fragile while handling and this is more so in case of baby sparrows. The sparrow, especially if it is a baby, should be kept in a warm place that is secure and away from any other pets that may be in the house. In its initial stages, the baby bird can be kept in a shoebox or a basket (depending on its size). Since a sparrow is rather tiny, especially their babies, find a smaller box which will keep the baby snug and warm. If it is a box, make sure it has been pierced with enough holes for air to pass through. Line the box/basket with a newspaper and a kitchen towel on top of that. The kitchen towel can be changed two or three times a day. Keeping the baby on a smooth surface can result in their feet sliding out under them, leading to splayed legs- this is very hard to correct. Should you use cloth to keep it warm in cold weather, make sure the fabric isn’t such that it gets caught in the bird’s claws. Temperature is a crucial factor for the survival of young birds. For the first two weeks or so they rely heavily on their parents for warmth. For this duration, the temperature must be regulated and kept between must be kept between 38-40 C. As the birds grow, the temperature can be brought down gradually.

In case of cold climate, you can use a hot water bottle or a heating pad. Fill the hot water bottle, wrap it in a towel/cloth and place it in the box and change the water frequently. Place it on one side so that if it gets too warm, the bird has room to shift. Be sure to cover the hot water bottle sufficiently, so that the bird doesn’t scald itself. If you should choose to use a heating pad, heater or a light bulb to provide warmth, make sure it is only done under constant supervision. Birds do not have sweat glands, so make sure that they do not overheat either. This can be as disastrous as catching a chill.

It is best to keep the baby bird in a dark and quiet place, away from any drafts, children or pets.
 As it gets older, make sure it has things to grip and perch on constantly. You can use blunt objects like sticks/branches, pencils, chopsticks etc. If you want a thicker perch, tie a couple of pencils together.

Shift it to a bigger box/basket as it grows; you can judge this based on how much it is feathered and its activity level. When the sparrow is about 1-1.5 months old it can be shifted into an aviary or an empty room, where it can exercise its wings and take short flights. Again, it is imperative to give it things to perch on. Its box can be kept nearby for it to take shelter in, along with plenty of food and fresh water.

1-2 weeks, keep in a snug box. 2-4 weeks, can be moved to a bigger box or basket. 4 or 6 weeks onward, can be moved into an aviary or an empty room. IDENTIFYING THE STAGES A hatchling refers to an animal that has recently hatched from an egg. Sometimes they are pink with no feathers, bony and their eyes haven’t opened as yet. This should indicate that they are under a week old. As they grow, they will be covered with small barbs; from these, the feathers will finally emerge.


A nestling is a baby bird that isn’t old enough to leave the nest and thus, confined to it. Nestlings can be sparsely feathered or even covered with them, but they’re rather shabby and lack the sheen seen on an adult sparrow. Most people say they are unable to perch properly. It is safe to assume that the bird is around 2 weeks old, at this point. A bird that has recently acquired it’s flight feathers, is a fledgling. At this stage, the sparrow should be closer to 3 weeks (give or take a few days). Most people believe that you can distinguish a fledgling from a nestling by observing if they are able to perch well. At this stage they resemble a juvenile, but are still small in size and lack the gloss of feathers that their adult counterparts possess. FOOD Before we get started on the what, how and when of the feeding section, here are a few things we’d like to acquaint you with- What is a crop? When birds are fed, they store food in something called ‘crop’. The crop is an expanded muscular pouch temporarily used to store food. It is essentially an enlarged part of the oesophagus and located near the gullet or throat. You can see the crop expand when a bird has eaten a good amount and fall back down when the food has been digested. Not all birds have crops.

What is sour crop? The thing to remember while hand feeding birds with crops, is that they can be prone to ‘sour crop’. It is a condition described by delayed emptying of the crop. Simply put, if the crop doesn’t empty in time, bacteria and yeast can start multiplying in the crop and cause the food to ferment. The causes for this are overfeeding and feeding them cold food. So make sure you feed the squab only when its crop feels empty and don’t feed it so much that the crop bulges unnaturally. Feed it food at body temperature, lukewarm- not very hot and not cold.

This is a representative illustration for a crop in a Pigeon’s body, meant to suggest where the crop may be in a bird. Please use it only as a reference and ask a vet or experienced rehabilitator to point out where it is, should you have a doubt.

The illustration should give you an idea of where the crop is located. When it is full or filling up, it will feel squidgy and bulge slightly. When the food has been digested, the bulge will disappear and the baby bird is likely to squeak for more food. Baby birds open their mouth wide when their parents approach with food. Tap the birds’ beak gently with you finger. They will likely squeak a whole lot and open their beaks wide, for the food to be placed inside.

Note: Avoid heating food or formula in the microwave- it leaves pockets of food scalding.

Keep an eye on the bird’s stool. Moderate the quantity and type of food accordingly. If there is a diarrhea kind of condition, contact the Vet immediately. How to feed:

Never feed a baby bird water, for it can aspirate. A newly hatched bird (with no feathers at all) takes in food in very small quantities (more so in the case of sparrows, because they’re already so tiny). Do not rush the feedings- make sure the bird has swallowed each bite before giving another. Liquids are not to be given, as the moisture in the food is sufficient to keep it well hydrated.

Feed only from sunrise or 6:00-6:30 am until about 10:00 pm at night. Even newly hatched babies do not get fed during the night.

You can feed the baby sparrow by simulating the action of parent birds. This can be achieved by using an ice cream stick that is tapered and blunted at one end, or with the help of (blunt) tweezers.

Tap the bill of the bird gently, if it hasn’t already opened its bill wide, in anticipation of food. You will see a small opening inside the bird’s mouth, almost at the end of its tongue. This passage leads to the lungs and food must not go into it. You can place a tiny bite of food on the (tapered end of the) modified ice cream stick or blunt tweezers, and put it beyond the tiny opening described earlier, almost into its throat. Again, don’t feed too much at one go. Feed a little at a time so you can keep an eye on the crop. The food must be of a pasty consistency - just enough to hold in the form of a bite.

The food must be given lukewarm or at body temperature. Giving baby birds cold food can result in sour crop (see section on sour crop). The food can’t be too hot either, or it’ll scald the bird. Be especially vary when heating food in a microwave - it heats unevenly and leaves pockets that are extremely hot.

It is important to make sure the consistency of food is not too liquidy, or the bird can choke.

All equipment used for feeding must be washed/sterilised with hot water and cleaned thoroughly after every feed. If you’re using an ice cream stick, dispose off of them often.

What to feed:

A very common choice of food for baby sparrows seemed to be dog/cat kibble soaked in warm water. Baby sparrows need food that is rich in protein so dry cat food (pellets) could work well. Royal Canin’s Fit 32 for cats has 32% protein (as stated on the pack) and soaks pretty well. Add some warm water to the dry kibble and wait till they’re soft and can be squished to make a paste. You can combine this with mashed up boiled egg yellow (if it’s a teaspoon of soaked mashed pellets, then about half a teaspoon on mashed egg yellow). The food should resemble the consistency of ketchup. Another choice of food is mashed up cooked rice combined with either chicken ground to a paste or mashed up boiled egg yellow. You can also get jawaar or bajraa flour and combine that with boiled and mashed egg yellow, or boiled chicken ground to a paste. The food should be the consistency of a paste.

As it grows, you can introduce small pieces of cooked chicken, boiled corn and peas to its diet. Some fruits like papaya can also be given.

At later stages, we often introduced tiny pieces of raw chicken or meat. Baby sparrows are fed a lot of insects and worms in their natural setting, so make sure they get a lot of protein. Ask the vet for other ideas on food.

A lot of times, they may require additional supplements; ask the vet about any additions and quantities in which to administer them.

Interval and Age:

For a high resolution/print friendly image, click here - 

Food Chart

The amount of food to be given will depend on the crop. Feel the crop; if it is squidgy and bulging, wait till it empties out. A newly hatched bird has no feathers and their eyes are shut. During this period they can be anywhere around a week old and must be fed every 30-40 minutes. The interval can be decreased slightly should the bird demand food at shorter intervals. At this stage they can be given rice that has been properly cooked and mashed, along with a cooked egg yellow. Both can be mashed and mixed together, then formed into tiny bites to feed the bird. Another alternative is Parle G bicuits or Marie biscuits soaked in water. Soak the biscuit till it is pasty. The meals can be alternated- two meals of mashed egg yellow and rice, alternated with one meal of mushy biscuit. You can increase the quantity very gradually if the bird asks for more food. It is better to under feed initially, than feed too much. Keep an eye on the bird’s stool and moderate the quantities and foods accordingly.

After one week (upto 2 weeks), you can introduce them to cat food. Feathers should’ve already started appear from the barbs that previously appeared on the baby bird. Soak the dry kibble in water, till you can completely mash it up and form it into little bites. We’ve used Royal Canin’s (Fit 32) in the past. The pellets soak faster if you use hot water, but make sure you wait for the food to come down to body temperature before feeding! Introduce the new food very gradually, so you can see the changes, if any, in the bird’s stool. If the bird asks for more food, do give it, depending on how empty or full the crop is. Continue with the foods from the first week as well.

Between week two and three, the feeding interval can be increased to 45-50 minutes. The number of feathers on the bird’s body will gradually increase, until the patches of skin become sparse or disappear. The same foods can be continued with some additions- a dough made of atta (wheat flour) and water can be introduced at this stage. Knead the mixture together to make a smooth dough. Make tiny bite-sized pieces before feeding it to the bird. Even rotis can be soaked it water (till it makes a firm paste) and given at this age. At weeks three-four, the baby birds will soon begin to eat on their own, so make bowls of fresh water available. Make sure they’re large enough (but not deep) for them to take a dip; birds like having a bath. Leave some grains of jawaar and baajra scattered around, should they feel like eating by themselves. Soaked oats can also be introduced to their hand-fed diet along with all the foods they’re already being given. The feeding interval can be about an hour. After about a month, the baby bird should start eating on its own. Make foods like boiled egg, crumbs of Parle G or Marie, crushed ganthiya, jawaar and baajr, boiled rice, soaked oats, bite-sized bits of atta (wheat flour) dough, coarsely crushed nuts and seeds (available at pet stores for a few species), boiled daal readily available for it to feed on its own. When you’re sure that the bird eats enough on its own, stop the hand feeding completely. However, before bringing it to a complete halt, it must be tapered off gradually.

Even it may not be eating on its own at first, the water and food needs to be available so the bird can have access to it when it is strong enough and ready to eat on its own.

Baby birds can be prone to diarrhea so make sure you don’t over feed and keep an eye on its stool, in order to moderate the quantity and type of food. The stool is very watery and frequent, do consult a vet at the earliest.
Add supplements if prescribed by the vet. Run the type of foods and quantities by your vet too.
At the cost of being repetitive, keep an eye on the crop before feeds, to determine how much and how frequently to feed.

REHABILITATION

When the baby sparrow is about 1.5- 2 months old, shift it to a larger space like an aviary or a room (free of predators) so that it can start exercising its wings. Make plenty of food and fresh water available and start to reduce contact with the bird very gradually. When it is fully weaned, able to perch well and make good flights across the room, you can attempt rehabilitating it (around 2.5-3 months). There are two ways to go about it- one is gradual, allowing the bird to take its time and the other is releasing it in one go. We of course, recommend the former.

Keep a window open so the bird is encouraged to fly out and explore. Again, make sure there aren’t any predators around. Keep food and water available at all times because there’s a good chance the bird may return at the end of the day or even before that. They will do this till they’re finally ready to leave and fend for themselves. The other way is to release it from the terrace of a building or any high point, but we find a gradual release to be a better option for rehabilitation. It ensures that the bird is fully ready and equipped to fend for itself once it is out of its foster home.

ADULT BIRD RESCUE

In some instances you may find a sparrow that is unable to fly. The injuries may be evident or internal. It is best to consult a vet in these cases and describe the symptoms if any, for fast treatment. Birds can scare easy, so when attempting to catch it, first throw a hand towel or cloth over the bird. Keep the handling as little as possible and transfer it to a quiet room or a basket kept in a quiet space. Leave it with plenty of food and water.

If the sparrow is unable to fly because of dehydration and exhaustion, mix some Glucon D in the water and gently tip its beak into the water container. This way, it will be encouraged to drink. Do not force feed it water, for it can aspirate. Leave it in a quiet place to recuperate and consult a vet for any other supplements that may help.

After the treatment has been followed through and your vet deems the bird healthy, you can attempt a soft release and rehabilitate the bird.

  Note: The information given here is based on our own experiences and people’s experiences with rescuing birds. It is by no means any substitute for consulting a Vet. Please consult a Vet as soon as you acquire the bird and keep them updated on its progress. Make sure you run all the food types, quantities and intervals by your vet too.

  Bibliography

(we’d like to thank)           

For years now, animals have formed a huge part of our favourite stories in both books and movies. It's a pity then, that they should be subject to animal testing. It is undoubtedly cruel and seems medieval when you think of how barbaric it is.  

Let's keep these creatures for our stories! Keep them to fire the imagination of yet another generation. Keep them for Disney, not for labs.  

You have a choice. Choose cruelty free cosmetics (it's not just make-up, but the range of cosmetics; shampoos, soaps etc). Look for the bunny logo next time you shop a product.  

Here's a list of cruelty free products compiled by PETA, India - Companies That Don't Test on Animals  

You can download the print friendly version of the poster from here.  

Perch is doing a series of posters encouraging people to adopt. Not only because there are countless animals on the road looking for a good home, but because the love and happiness that comes with adopting one, is unparalleled. And the companionship, well, Two Good.

Bring one home?

Do share if you can! We intend to do a series so feel free to do one yourself or send in your thoughts/ideas!

You can download the print friendly version from the links given below.

Poster 01

Poster 02 

The Perch t-shirts are up for sale! Technique: Screen print Colour: Black

To most people, snakes seem to be synonymous with fear. Fascinating though they are, they appear to be one of the most misunderstood carnivorous reptiles. We owe this, in part to the movies and in part, to religion and mythology. The myths surrounding snakes are tremendous, and this is not just in rural areas. We’re going to try and equip you with some facts, so you can better understand these reptiles and deal with snake bites in a more informed manner. 

In India deaths due to snake-bites (referring to venomous snake-bites) are estimated at well over 46,000 every year. Even though actual envenomation* takes place less often, it is best to stay prepared for an emergency. This is not only for people residing in remote rural areas (who constitute majority of the victims) but also for urban city residents. There has been a transformation of habitat for snakes from forest systems and farmlands, to villages, towns and cities. Owing to their extraordinary adaptive nature, they have managed to survive everywhere. Even though there are only a few common species that are found in and around human habitation, the Big Four are unfortunately a part of these.

The Big Four (species) make up the medicinally important snakes of India, are lethally venomous and occur commonly throughout most of India. There are of course, other species that demand utmost respect like other cobras Naja spp.*, kraits Bungarus spp., coral snakes Calliophis spp. and Sinomicrurus sp., King Cobra Ophiophagus hannah, sea snakes (Hydrophiidae) and some pit vipers (Viperidae). Bites from these are however, smaller numbers mostly because of their distribution and biological pattern.

Most of the snake-bites take place unknowingly, when the snake is accidentally threatened. In these unforeseen instances a simple strategy and presence of mind can prove to be a limb-saver and in some cases, a life-saver.

We do advise that you go through the contents of this kit in advance to be able to prepare yourself in the eventuality of a snake-bite.

  Let’s start with the don’ts. DO NOT do the following in case of a snake-bite: 

Do not suck out venom 

Do not make incision to bleed out the venom 

Do not go to traditional healers 

Do not try out home remedies 

Do not apply tourniquets 

Do not apply ice 

Do not clean out the bitten part 

Do not try to catch/kill the snake

All of the above activities either do not work or are extremely dangerous to perform. In fact, they will do more harm than good.

  The following is what you CAN and SHOULD DO:

Make sure the victim and others are at a safe distance away from the snake; do not attempt to capture the snake, get the victim and others away from it. 

Try to memorize the snake’s appearance from a safe distance. 

Remove watches / rings / other jewellery from the bitten part- these can constrict blood flow, if rapid swelling occurs.

Keep the victim calm and reassured and try not to panic. As trivial as it may sound, it will improve the victim’s ability to deal with the situation and your ability to make decisions. Try to immobilize the bitten limb; do not make the victim run and avoid making him/her walk if possible.

In case of neurotoxic bites (All elapids and hydrophiids: Cobras, King cobras, kraits, coral snakes and sea snakes), pressure immobilization (Sutherland method) with long crepe or other stretchy bandage (5 - 10 cm wide, several rolls) and splint should be applied immediately to the bitten limb; starting at the toes/fingers and working up to the groin or arm pit. DO NOT use this method in case of bites incurred from Russel’s Viper or Saw-scaled Viper.

Do not waste any time and arrange for quick transport (as safely and comfortably as possible) to the nearest hospital treating snake-bite cases. 

If possible, do try and note the time of bite and progression of symptoms.

Describe the snake and the whole incident to the attending doctor.

Anti Snake Venom Serum is the only cure.

If your neighbourhood has a high density of snakes, it is advisable to prepare a snake- bite protocol (plan of action in case of an emergency) best suited to you. Here’s what we recommend it includes:

Numbers of people to be informed first 

Name and address of nearest hospital treating snake-bites best. 

Mode of transport and related details. 

Name/contact no. of doctor, etc. Make sure all family members understand their role in an emergency.

A few rolls of crepe bandage, a splint.

A copy of the Snake-bit First Aid Management Kit.

  SNAKE-BITE FIRST AID: PRESSURE IMMOBILIZATION METHOD FOR BITES ON THE LEG

Note: Do not attempt to remove pants as the movement will assist the venom to travel and enter the blood stream. If the pants are too tight to be rolled up, apply bandage over the pants. Keep the person as calm as possible.

1. Apply a broad pressure (crepe) bandage. Start from the toes and work your way up covering the bite, as soon as possible. Keep the bitten leg still at all times. 

2. The broad pressure bandage should be as tight as applied to a sprained ankle.  

3. Extend the bandage as high as possible. 

4. Put a splint along the length of the leg (on the outer side) and bind it to the leg using another roll of bandage. This will immobilse the joint on either side of the bite. 

5. Bind it firmly to as much of the leg as possible. Again, we emphasise that walking or any movement should be restricted and kept to a bare minimum at all times.

  SNAKE-BITE FIRST AID: PRESSURE IMMOBILIZATION METHOD FOR BITES ON THE HAND/ARM

Note: If you do not possess a broad pressure (crepe) bandage, it is best to do nothing at all. Crepe bandage is used only because of its stretchable property. Normal cloth will not work.

1. Apply a broad pressure (crepe) bandage. Start from the fingers, work your way to the elbow covering the bite, as soon as possible. Keep the bitten arm very still. 

2. The broad pressure bandage should be as tight as applied to a sprained ankle. 

3. Apply a separate bandage from elbow upwards and extend as high as possible. 

4. Put a splint along the length of the arm(on the outer side). Bind it to the arm using another roll of bandage.

5. This will immobilse the joint on either side of the bite. Put the arm in a sling. Again, we emphasise that any movement should be restricted to a bare minimum. 

Terms explained: 

*There are bites in which there is no venom injected; these are called dry bites. However, it is imperative that this is diagnosed by a doctor/ someone experienced.

*ssp. is abbreviated for species (plural form) when something is applied to many species within the same genus, but not all species within the genus.

The above given content can be downloaded in print friendly version too. Here are the links -

Sheet 01

Sheet 02

Sheet 03 

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Bibliography:

Content by Soham Mukherjee in consultation with Dr. David A Warrell and Rom Whitaker.

Corvus splendens

The House Crow, along with Pigeons and Mynas, have to be one of the most commonly sighted birds in urban areas. Having (for some reason) gained a reputation that does them no favours, these birds are wonderfully intelligent and have adapted beautifully to urban scenarios. They’re found all over India in cities and remote areas alike. They seem to be opportunistic yet extremely cautious and it is that, perhaps, that allows them to adapt so well to living in populated areas as well. They can be found scavenging around meat markets, eating grains or chapatis, fruit, worms or whatever it is you give them. They aren’t fussy about food; often they’re found eating rodents as well.

Size: In a bird book it would typically be classified under ‘Pigeon+’, which would make it larger than a Pigeon; an average of about 43cm.

Characterised By: House Crows are often characterised by the sleek, glossy black feathers on their body. They have a grey neck, the shade of which may vary from region to region. Their beak and area around the eye, along with their legs and claws are black as well. Their call, a rather loud ‘caw’, is very characteristic of them and most easily identified by many. House Crows are often confused with Jungle Crows and Ravens. Jungle Crows are larger, with a heavier bill, with the grey collar absent. Ravens are still larger than the Jungle Crow and with a bill that is still heavier.

If a baby bird has fallen out of its nest and seems unharmed, it is a good idea to try and return it back to its nest. In trying to do so, make sure predators such as cats or dogs are nowhere around. It is a false notion that the parent bird will not accept it once in contact with a human being. Crows are very protective of their young and will swoop down on you, should you get too close to their young. The best thing you can do is clear the area of any predators and keep an eye until the stranded young one has made it to a safe perch.

SHELTER

The bird, especially if it is a baby, should be kept in a warm place and away from any other pets that may be in the house. In its initial stages, the baby bird can be kept in a shoebox or a basket (depending on its size). If it is a box, make sure it has been pierced with enough holes for air to pass through. Line the box/basket with a newspaper and a kitchen towel on top of that. The kitchen towel can be changed two or three times a day. Keeping the baby on a smooth surface can result in their feet sliding out under them, leading to splayed legs- this is very hard to correct.

Temperature is a crucial factor for the survival of young birds. For the first two weeks or so they rely heavily on their parents for warmth. For the first two weeks it must be kept in an environment of about 33-35 C. Post two weeks, temperature can be reduced to 30-32 C.

In case of cold climate, you can use a hot water bottle or a heating pad. Do not fill the hot water bottle with boiling water. Fill it with warm water and wrap it in a towel/cloth and place it in the box and change the water frequently. Place it on one side so that if it gets too warm, the bird has room to shift. If you should choose to use a heating pad or a light bulb to provide warmth, make sure it is only done under constant supervision. Birds do not have sweat glands, so make sure that they do not overheat either. This can be as disastrous as catching a chill.

It is best to keep the baby bird in a dark and quiet place, away from any drafts, children or pets. As it gets older, make sure it has things to grip and perch on constantly. You can use blunt objects like sticks/branches, pencils, chopsticks etc. If you want a thicker perch, tie a couple of pencils together.

Shift it to a bigger box/basket as it grows bigger. When the crow is about 2.5-3 months old it can be shifted into an aviary or an empty room, where it can exercise its wings and and take short flights. Its box can be kept nearby for it to take shelter in, along with plenty of food and fresh water.

IDENTIFYING THE STAGES

A hatchling refers to an animal that has recently hatched from an egg. Sometimes they are pink with no feathers, bony and their eyes haven’t opened as yet. This should indicate that they are under two weeks old. As they grow, they will be covered with fuzz, small barbs will appear; from these, the feathers will finally emerge.

A nestling is a baby bird that isn’t old enough to leave the nest and thus, confined to it. Nestlings can be sparsely feathered or even covered with them, but they’re rather shabby and lack the sheen seen on an adult crow. Most people say they are unable to perch properly.

A bird that has recently acquired it’s flight feathers, is a fledgling. Most people believe that you can distinguish a fledgling from a nestling by observing if they are able to perch well. At this stage they resemble a juvenile, but are still small in size and lack the gloss of feathers that their adult counterparts possess.

FOOD

Even though the House Crow is one of the most commonly spotted bird in the Indian context, information about hand rearing them is shockingly little. Before we tell you what to feed a crow, there are some things you must be acquainted with-

What is a crop?

When birds are fed, they store food in something called ‘crop’.

The crop is an expanded muscular pouch. temporarily used to store food. It is essentially an enlarged part of the oesophagus and located near the gullet or throat. You can see the crop expand when a bird has eaten a good amount and fall back down when the food has been digested. Not all birds have crops.

What is sour crop?

The thing to remember while hand feeding birds with crops, is that they can be prone to ‘sour crop’. It is a condition described by delayed emptying of the crop. Simply put, if the crop doesn’t empty in time, bacteria and yeast can start multiplying in the crop and cause the food to ferment. The causes for this are overfeeding and feeding them cold food. So make sure you feed the squab only when its crop feels empty and don’t feed it so much that the crop bulges unnaturally. Feed it food at body temperature, lukewarm- not very hot and not cold.

This is a representative illustration for a crop in Pigeon's body, please use it only as a reference. 

The illustration should give you an idea of where the crop is located. When it is full or filling up, it will feel squidgy and bulge slightly. When the food has been digested, the bulge will disappear and the baby bird is likely to squeak for more food.

Note: Avoid heating food or formula in the microwave- it leaves pockets of food scalding.

Keep an eye on the bird’s stool. Moderate the quantity and type of food accordingly. If there is a diarrhea kind of condition, contact the Vet immediately.

How to feed:

Never feed a baby bird water, for it can aspirate. A newly hatched bird (with no feathers at all) takes in food in very small quantities. Do not rush the feedings- make sure the bird has swallowed each bite before giving another. Liquids are not be given as the moisture in the food is sufficient to keep it well hydrated.

Feed only from sunrise or 6:00 am until about 10:00 pm at night. Even newly hatched babies do not get fed during the night.

You can feed the squab by simulating the action of parent birds. This can be achieved with the help of a syringe (without the needle, of course) or with a dropper. Use a syringe only if the plunger goes down smoothly releasing no more than a couple of drops at a time, making sure the bird does not aspirate.

Tap the bill of the bird gently, if it hasn’t already opened its bill wide, in anticipation of food. You will see a small opening inside the bird’s mouth, almost at the end of it’s tongue. This passage leads to the lungs and food must not go into it. You can use a syringe of about 2ml or a good dropper and place it at an angle on the side of the birds beak. Depress the plunger very slowly if using a syringe and don’t feed too much at one go, or the food will rise to where the opening is. Feed a little at a time so you can keep an eye on the crop.

When it is about two weeks old and starts to consume more solid food, it’s beak can be opened gently and the food placed into its mouth, past the tongue. Take a small amount of food (pasty consistency) on the end of your finger and place it into their mouth like the parent bird would- again make sure it’s past the tongue, almost into the throat. Be very gentle.

The food must be given lukewarm or at body temperature. Giving baby birds cold food can result in sour crop (see section on sour crop).

It is important to make sure the consistency of food is not too liquidy, or the bird can choke.

All equipment used for feeding must be washed with hot water and cleaned thoroughly before every feed.

What to feed:

A very common choice of food for baby brows seemed to be dog/cat kibble soaked in warm water. Baby crows need food that is rich in protein so dry cat food (pellets) could work well. Royal Canin’s Fit 32 for cats has 32% protein (as stated on the pack) and soaks pretty well. Add some warm water to the dry kibble and wait till they’re soft and can be squished to make a paste. You can combine this with mashed up boiled egg yellow (if it’s a teaspoon of soaked mashed pellets, then about half a teaspoon on mashed egg yellow). The food should resemble the consistency of ketchup. Another choice of food is mashed up cooked rice combined with either chicken ground to a paste or mashed up boiled egg yellow. You can also get jawaar or bajraa flour and combine that with boiled and mashed egg yellow, or boiled chicken ground to a paste. The food should be the consistency of a paste.

As it grows, you can introduce small pieces of cooked chicken, boiled corn and peas to it’s diet. Some fruits like papaya can also be given.

At later stages, we often introduced tiny pieces of raw chicken or meat. Baby crows are fed a lot of insects and worms in their natural setting, so make sure they get a lot of protein. Ask the vet for other ideas on food.

A lot of times, they may require additional supplements; ask the vet about any additions and quantities in which to administer them.

Interval and Age:

The amount of food to be given will depend on the crop. Feel the crop; if it is squidgy and bulging, wait till it empties out.

For a high resolution/print friendly image, click here - 

0-8 weeks

8-10 weeks

A newly hatched bird, with no feathers and possibly blind- 0-2 weeks, must be fed every 30 minutes. The interval can be decreased slightly should the bird demand food at shorter intervals. The above mention mixture of cat food and egg yellow, rice and egg yellow or chicken, jawaar/bajraa flour and egg yellow or chicken can be given at this age. You can also alternate the types of food. Anywhere between 0.25ml to 0.5 ml can be given per meal. You can increase the quantity very gradually if the bird asks for more food. It is better to under feed initially, than feed too much.

At 2 to 4 weeks, you can continue with the same foods but increase the quantities anywhere between 0.75ml to 1.5ml. The interval is still 30 minutes, from 6:00am to 10:00pm. If the bird asks for more food, do give it, depending on how empty or full the crop is.

At 4-6 weeks, the feeding interval can be increased to 1 hour. The same foods can be continued and the consistency can be that of a thicker paste. Bits of fruit (like papaya) can also be added to the diet. The quantity can be anywhere between 2ml to 2.5ml depending on the emptying of the crop.

At 6-8 weeks, tiny pieces of raw chicken and meat can be given along with the rest of the food. You can feed it every hour and a half now or whenever the birds demands food. At around 8 weeks, you can also leave the aforementioned foods on a dish, along with a shallow bowl of water so that the baby crow can start learning how to pick at food.

By 10 weeks, the weaning process should begin. Leave plenty of food and fresh water lying around. Weaning is something that must be done gradually. If you observe the baby bird eating on its own, slowly decrease the quantity or interval of hand feeding. However, do make sure that it is eating enough throughout the day.

Even it it may not be eating on its own at first, the water and food needs to be available so the bird can have access to it when it it is strong enough and ready to eat on its own.

Baby birds can be prone to diarrhea so make sure you don’t over feed and keep an eye on its stool, in order to moderate the quantity and type of food. The stool is very watery and frequent, do consult a vet at the earliest. Add supplements if prescribed by the vet. Run the type of foods and quantities by your vet too. At the cost of being repetitive, keep an eye on the crop before feeds, to determine how much and how frequently to feed.

REHABILITATION

When the baby crow is about 2.5-3 months old, shift it to a larger space like an aviary or a room (free of predators) so that it can start exercising its wings. Make plenty of food and fresh water available and start to reduce contact with the bird very gradually. When it is fully weaned, able to perch well and make good flights across the room, you can attempt what is called a ‘soft release’.

Keep a window open so the bird is encouraged to fly out and explore. Again, make sure there aren't any predators around. Keep food and water available at all times because there’s a good chance the bird may return at the end of the day or even before that. The other way is to release it from the terrace of a building or any high point, but we find soft release a better option for rehabilitation. It ensures that the bird is fully ready and equipped to fend for itself once it is out of its foster home.

ADULT BIRD RESCUE

In some instances you may find a crow that is unable to fly. The injuries may be evident or internal. It is best to consult a vet in these cases and describe the symptoms if any, for fast treatment. Birds can scare easy, so when attempting to catch it, first throw a towel or cloth over the bird. Keep the handling as little as possible and transfer it to a quiet room or a basket kept in a quiet space. Leave it with plenty of food and water.

If the crow is unable to fly because of dehydration and exhaustion, mix some Glucon D in the water and gently tip its beak into the water container. This way, it will be encouraged to drink. Do not force feed it water, for it can aspirate. Leave it in a quiet place to recuperate and consult a vet for any other supplements that may help.

After the treatment has been followed through and your vet deems the bird healthy, you can attempt a soft release and rehabilitate the bird.

Note: The information given here is based on our own experiences and people’s experiences with rescuing birds. It is by no means any substitute for consulting a Vet. Please consult a Vet as soon as you acquire the bird and keep them updated on its progress. Make sure you run all the food types, quantities and intervals by your vet too.

Bibliography

(we’d like to thank)

The Book of Indian Birds by Salim Ali

To most people, snakes seem to be synonymous with fear. Fascinating though they are, they seem to be one of the most misunderstood carnivorous reptiles. Their lack of eyelids, length and overlapping scales make many squirm. We owe this, in part to the movies and in part, to religion and mythology. The myths surrounding snakes are tremendous... and this is not just in rural areas. We’re going to try and equip you with facts, so you can better understand these reptiles and your fear doesn't stem from what you don’t know. We hope that you will be less willing to want to kill them, for lack of knowledge.

There are about 300 kinds of snakes found in India. They can be classified into venomous and nonvenomous. Within the ones that are venomous, are ones that have enough venom only to kill small prey and ones that have bites that can prove fatal to human beings (if not treated correctly or in time). The four medicinally important snakes are considered to be of extreme importance as they are lethally venomous and occur throughout most of India- commonly referred to as the Big Four. There are several other species that can prove fatal like other cobras Naja spp., kraits Bungarus spp., coral snakes Calliophis spp. and Sinomicrurus sp., King Cobra Ophiophagus hannah, sea snakes (Hydrophiidae) and some pit vipers (Viperidae). Bites are however in smaller numbers from these mostly because of their distribution and biological pattern. The four venomous snakes that we will tackle are- Indian Cobra, Russell’s Viper, Saw-scaled Viper and Common Krait. It is crucial that you be able to identify these (especially if snakes frequent the area you live in) and you can do so by looking at the markings on their body.

  INDIAN COBRA

Naja naja

The Indian cobra or Naag, as it is commonly referred to in Hindi, is both respected and feared in the Indian context. Naja naja is responsible for most number of venomous snake-bites in India.

Colour & Pattern: The colours vary greatly and can range anywhere from yellow-brow, red-brown, dark brown, brown-black to bluish black or grey-black. They’re known to be lighter down South and much darker as you go up north, in areas such as Gujarat. An image associated with spectacles at the rear of the hood is seen in some cobras, whereas it is absent in some others.

Identifier: Most cobras will hood up, but some won’t. In case their hood doesn't fan out, a combination of other features may help to identify them. These include the bulky head, white belly, bulky (not fat) body and not very fast movements. We understand that these overlap with other species and can confuse the concerned person. The expert we consulted thinks that, in case you cannot identify the snake, treat it as a venomous snake.

Hooding up is part of its defense mechanism, so they actually hood up when they are scared. The first stage of defense, almost every time, is ‘to escape’. The hood comes second when they feel cornered. This works both as a warning to attacker and makes the snake look bigger than it actually is. Also, new studies show they engage is ‘false’ strikes initially with their mouth closed to ward off attackers and only resort to bite if that fails. However, if someone steps on them directly, they may bite without any warning signals. 

Length: The average length of a cobra is about four feet and can occasionally go up to 6.5 feet. 

Region: Commonly found across India, in farms, forests, even urban settings, excluding extreme north and northeast India.

Confused with: Often confused with the Rat Snake, Smooth Snake, Banded Racer.

  COMMON KRAIT

Bungarus caeruleus

Colour & Pattern: The Common Krait is generally black to bluish black in colour, with thin white bands (crossbars) along its body and usually in pairs. Rarely, the bands will not be distinct, but in most cases they will. The belly can be yellow-white. Common krait’s bands are usually in pairs. The bands are visible well in adults as well. 

Identifier: It is identified by the triangular cross section of its body and enlarged hexagonal vertebral shields along the middle of its upper back. The head is rounded and flat and the eyes are completely black.

They are known to be nocturnal and are said to be hidden in darker places during the day.

Length: The length is an average of 3 feet, but it may grow up to 5.9 feet (source, Wikipedia).

Region: Found all over India, but seem absent in the Northeast. 

Confused with: Other species of Krait (not Banded Krait), Wolf Snake, Barred Wolf Snake, Banded Racer juvenile and sub adult.

  RUSSELL'S VIPER

Daboia russelii

The Russell’s viper is named after a Scottish herpetologist named Patrick Russell, who first ventured to describe many of India’s snakes. The Russell’s viper is responsible for a majority of snake bites in India (and the world) due to its frequent occurrence in populated areas. 

Colour & Pattern: It is generally a tan or brown colour with a series of dark brown continuous spots along its body. An inner black ring and an outer yellow-white border frame these spots. The colour within these may be lighter. The belly is generally white-yellow with darker spots just at the edge.

Identifier: The head is a flat triangular shape and distinct from the body. The nostrils are clearly visible and the snout, rounded. The body is stout, almost cylindrical and the tail is short. The spots are also a key identifier. 

The scales on a viper are pointed and non-glossy and the pupil is vertical. They are known to coil themselves when provoked and produce a whistle like sound as a warning, after which they may attack on further provocation. It is also known to be a nocturnal species.

Length: It has an average length of 4 feet and goes up to a maximum length of 5.5ft - 6 feet in rare cases.

Region: Commonly found across India, possibly absent from the North-East.

Confused with: Often confused with a Common Sand Boa or Python.

  SAW-SCALED VIPER

Echis carinatus

Colour & Pattern: The colour of the body ranges from tan, reddish brown to greyish brown. On this, is a pattern of whitish spots on the upper side. These have an outer edge of dark brown (towards black) and are separated by patches of a lighter colour.

Identifier: There is known to be a trident or cruciform pattern on top of the head in a whitish colour. The head is distinct from the body and is rounded off around the snout. 

The scales have a pointed appearance and are non-glossy. It also seems to produce a saw-like sound when disturbed. The sound is a result of coiling itself and rubbing its scales together. The are largely nocturnal, but are also spotted during the day. Side winding, the typical posture when threatened, is also an important identifier.

Length: The length can be anywhere between 15-25.5 in.

Region: Found all over India. Common in Rajasthan, Gujarat, Maharashtra and absent from the Northeast.

Confused with: Common Sand Boa, Common Cat snake, Russell’s Kukri.

  Myths and Facts

-No, snakes do not drink milk. It is not a natural food for snakes and being intolerant to it, it is toxic for them. However, but when thirsty they will drink most liquids.

The bigger snakes can consume rats while the smaller ones consume lizards, small birds, frogs and mice. Bigger snakes like pythons will go for much larger prey like small deer, most of smaller mammals, variety of birds, etc. They are mostly opportunistic feeders.

-Only members of the same species mate. For example, rat snakes do not mate with cobras.

Some snakes like sand boas, vipers and vine snakes give birth, while cobras and kraits lay eggs.

-The average lifespan of a snake is about 10-20 years. In rare cases, about 30 years.

-Snakes do not have any sort of jewel or diamond embedded in their head. 

-There are no two, three, five headed snakes. Just people messing around on Photoshop.

-Snakes will not remember you if you hurt them, neither will they vengefully hunt you down if you kill their partner. Leave that to the movies, please.

-Rodents on farmland are known to destroy atleast 20% of grain each year. Snakes that consume rodents are therefore favourable to farmers.

-Snakes cannot hear, so they’re not dancing to any tunes played by the snake charmer. Their swaying is simply a response to the movement of the flute. Unfortunately these snakes are often de-fanged, which means they will starve.

Having separated myth from fact, here’s what we’d like to highlight about snakes-

Snakes are shy creatures. They attack only when provoked or when they are agitated or threatened. As with many other animals/birds, snakes need to be respected, even mildly feared.

Make sure you know how to identify the Big Four (common venomous snakes). We can’t emphasise this enough if you live in an area that snakes frequent.

Don’t place your hands or feet in places where you cannot see clearly.

It is best to wear closed shoes. Do not walk barefoot or with chappals after dark.

Always use a torch at night.

Make a list of the hospitals closest to you that will have the antivenin serum. Also, try to locate professional snake catchers in your area/city. According to our Vet, only government hospitals have antivenin, so make sure you ascertain these things beforehand.

If you’re walking in monsoon, be more cautious. Snakes tend to reach for dry ground, just like us.

Lastly, if you spot a snake, please don’t kill it. Most people get bitten because they have no or little knowledge and go out of their way to kill them.

If you are bitten, the worst thing to do, is panic. This will ensure the venom spreads faster.

The only way to treat a bite by a venomous snake, is antivenin- We cannot emphasise this enough.

The only reason ‘other remedies’ work, is either because the snake is venomous enough only to affect small prey, or it has not injected a lethal dose of venom.

  You can download fact sheets for each of the Big Four from the links given below.

Indian Cobra

  Common Krait

  Russell's Viper

  Saw-scaled Viper

  Bibliography

Thanks to Dhun Karkaria for helping us with the references for illustrations and also for generously sharing knowledge and the resources he previously designed (Snakes booklet, when he was with CEE).

It is only too often that we find people abandoning their pets for incomprehensible reasons that made us furious. Fortunately many kind people and organisations work hard to relocate them into good homes.

It was seeing this occur time and again that led us to doing this post. So before you adopt, here’s a few things to think about-

  Will a pet fit into your family?

Make sure you do your homework and choose a breed that will be a good fit for your family, both in terms of temperament and space. Consider things like allergies. If there are kids or aged people at home, think about how your decision affects them.

Will you spend time with your pet?

Consider your schedule and consider if you will be able to give dedicated time to your pet. If you’re working or have kids, will you be able to spare time? You need to be able to take it out for walks, play with it, give it attention, like you would a member of the family.

Who will be the primary caretaker?

If you agree to take responsibility of your pet as a family, small roles can be delegated to each member. However, if this isn't the case, the need arises for a primary caretaker who will care for the pet in all circumstances. Remember, this is a long term commitment, not an interest that wanes.

Can you afford the resultant expenses?

You will incur a certain amount of expenses when you adopt a pet. Food, grooming, vaccinations, other medical expenses to name a few.

Moving? Can you take your pet with you?

If you’re likely to move to another city, will you make arrangements to take your pet with you? Try to think ahead before you adopt. Abandoning a pet is traumatic and simply not done.

Who looks after it when you leave town?

Whether it’s a vacation or because of an emergency, you will have to make arrangements to have someone take care of your pet while you’re away. Leaving it with a whole lot of food is out of the question.

What about enough freedom and space?

Everyone may not have the luxury of a backyard/garden, but your pet can’t be confined all day. Are you up for taking them for walks, taking them to parks and letting them bound around?

Are you ready for some lifestyle changes?

Pets can adapt incredibly well to the family they’re with, but there may be the initial phase (before they’re trained) where they have a go at your footwear or furniture. They have fur and they do shed.

  Can you be patient and take time to train it?

You’re going to have to be patient while you train your pet to adapt to certain things. They’re very intelligent, but you’re going to take to take the time out to teach them. No form of abuse should ever be forthcoming and we cannot emphasise this enough.

Your pet will require special attention and care as they age. Are you willing to be kind to them when they're old, and still care for them as you did before? Grow together or maybe even grow old together- this is a long term commitment.

If after being in the know, you’ve decided to adopt, prepare to be loved unconditionally and join a bunch that are so sold, they let their pets own them. 

There are many out there waiting for a good home. Go ahead, make one happy.

Download the print friendly version of the poster here - 

Poster 01

Canis lupus familiaris

Dogs. They may have been the first animals to be domesticated and have been a part of our society ever since. At least in our context, dogs are everywhere and for that reason we assume that they may be one the most commonly rescued of all the species we cover as part of Perch.

Dogs belong to the Canidae family, which essentially means that they belong to a line of carnivorous and omnivorous animals that include wolves, foxes, jackals, coyotes. There are many different breeds of dogs. To classify broadly as per our context, there are pedigrees, Indian dogs (most commonly spotted on the roads) and one’s which are a mix of both. All of them differ in height and structure, which is a good indicator of the purpose which they were bred for. Their coats differ in colour and density too. The one’s from colder regions have double coats, while dogs from warmer regions, like Indian dogs, have shorter single coats. Their tails though vastly different, are generally used to communicate their state of being.

Note: On acquiring an orphaned puppy/dog, it is strongly recommended that you visit the Vet and have it thoroughly examined. Many times internal injuries and a host of other problems go unnoticed by us.

  Identifying the age of a Pup

Birth to week one- Puppies are born blind, with little fur. Their muzzles tend to be pinkish. They are unable to walk and are totally dependent on their mother.

Week two- Their coats become more dense and their sense of smell slowly develops. They start crawling around.

Week three- At 15 days, their eyes should begin to open. Their ears open up as well and start to become more erect. They should be able to stand up and their movements will be better coordinated.

Week four- At the end of the third week, they start teething. They also respond to sight, sound and start to become quite playful.

Week five- They should start to eat on their own and poop-training can begin.

Week six to eight- The puppies are now far more agile and playful and should be able to eat dry dog food (kibble). At eight weeks they can be spayed, after consulting with the Vet.

Supplies

-Cardboard box, at least 12 inches in height

-Newspapers

-Pieces of cloth

-Kitchen towel

-Tissue/Toilet paper

-Cotton

-Hot water bag or heating pad (cold climate)

-Beaphar Lactol

-Syringe 5-10ml (without needle), feeding bottle with pipette

-Tweezers

-Dettol/Savlon

  SHELTER

Puppies like places that are dark, snug and warm. Newborn puppies especially, are largely dependent on their mother for warmth.  A cardboard box with high walls can be used as shelter for the first two weeks or so. Line it with newspaper and a warm blanket. Top that with a kitchen towel, large napkin or cloth. The top layer should be replaced every time it is soiled. Don’t use any material that they will get caught in. As is the case with other baby birds and mammals, temperature is a crucial factor to the survival of a puppy. Temperature control becomes even more vital in the first two weeks. Make sure you keep it warm, but that it does not overheat. Overheating may prove as fatal as catching a chill.

In case of cold climate, the box can be kept warm using a hot water bag or a heating pad, if available. Do not fill boiling water into the hot water bag. It should be warm and changed often. The temperature within the box must be maintained at around 32 degrees celsius. Place the hot water bag/ heating pad on one side of the box so that the pup can crawl to the other end, should it get too warm. If you use a hot water bag, it should be wrapped in a thick cloth. Monitor the temperature constantly.

Always place the box in a draft free location. Also be sure to keep it out of reach of children and any other pets you may have in the house.

When the pup is about 3 weeks old it can be shifted to a wider box, with an opening on the side. Line the box as mentioned above and change the bedding regularly.

At four to five weeks, they should be free to roam and explore, but should be supervised as they are still susceptible.

Some puppies may have ticks (left) or fleas (right). They are minuscule, but here is what they look like up close (not pretty).

DO NOT use flea powder  and DO NOT attempt to bathe them if they are too young. You can pluck the ticks or fleas out using a pair of tweezers or with your hands, either crush them using your nails or drop them in a jar of alcohol, before placing the pup in the box. Too many fleas and ticks can cause illnesses. Consult a Vet for the appropriate age to start bathing them and using flea or tic powder. When used, make sure that it is not inhaled or ingested. This can lead to complications and can prove fatal if ingested in large amounts.

  FOOD

What to feed

The first milk that the puppies consume when they begin nursing from their mother, is known as colostrum. This milk is rich and full of antibodies. Puppies that do not receive this tend to be more fragile and may even grow slower in some cases.

If you find a puppy that has been orphaned, it’s a good idea to first check for dehydration. Dehydrated pups appear listless and lethargic. Their skin will appear wrinkled instead of taut. This is generally tested by pinching the skin on the puppies back- if the skin collapses into its original state immediately, it is well hydrated. If it takes a while, the pup will require hydration before you start it on its regular feeds. You can add a small pinch of Electral powder and Glucon D to water and feed it a little at a time. You can also use Pedialyte. All of these are very readily available at any chemist. Don’t take dehydration lightly.

Cow/buffalo milk isn’t well suited for puppy consumption and can do more harm than good. It is best to turn to a milk replacer formula. These are fortified with vitamins and work well, in our experience. We normally use Beaphar’s Lactol, but you can use KMR or any other brand recommended by your Vet. It is a bit expensive- Approximately 500 rupees for a 250g pack, but on the up side, it comes with a feeding bottle and pipettes.

The instructions on the Lactol box say 30g powder for 105ml of water, so use that ratio for any quantity that you administer. For example, 1g powder for 4ml of water. Measure out 1g lactol powder in a 5ml syringe (till the 1ml mark) and measure 4ml of water. Mix both together till the powder has dissolved completely. Warm the liquid by placing over a container filled with warm water. Pour it into a clean feeding bottle and make sure it is about body temperature before feeding. It is best to make the formula often, but if you are going to store it and reheat it, be very cautious about the fact that it hasn’t gone stale. Refrigerate excess formula till the next feed.

The addition of probiotics is a good idea, so ask your Vet about probiotics and supplements that can be added to a pup’s food to aid growth.

Note: Formula should always be given at body temperature, never cold. Use only boiled or filtered water for the milk replacer formula.

Weaning

After three weeks, a little bit of egg can be introduced into the puppy's diet. Start with less than half and spread over a few meals. Some people recommend giving cerelac too, but ask your Vet before you do. At about four weeks, the pup can be introduced to wet food to initiate the weaning process. There are a number of options- one way, is to buy puppy food (there are a variety of brands available, so ask your Vet or a person who has had experience with dogs to recommend one) and soak the pellets till they are completely soggy. These are initially easier for the pup to consume. Gradually increase the quantity. Simultaneously, decrease the quantity of milk replacer formula such that it can be stopped around six weeks of age. An alternative to pellets is, rice/roti made squidgy with chicken broth. Gradually boiled egg, minced, boiled chicken, mashed boiled veggies can also be given. Curd can also be given to dogs/pups.

Quantities are often based on their breed and weight so check with the Vet about portions, frequency and type of food for when they are older. Adult dog food is also available in pellet form (dry food) in a host of brands. If you go that route, choose one which is best suited to your dog’s nutritional needs.

At the end of the day, you know your dog best, so trust your instincts and consult with the Vet if there are any doubts.

How to feed

If you are using the feeding bottle that you get with Beaphar’s Lactol, it is most likely that the pipette will not have holes in it. Heat a needle over a flame and pierce one or two holes in it. Do not make the holes too big, only enough so that a few drops drip out when the bottle is tilted downward. If the flow of liquid is too much, the pup may aspirate.

Puppies should be fed while resting on their stomachs and not upright. Set it on its stomach, raise its head slightly and gently insert the pipette into its mouth. Apply just enough pressure on the feeding bottle so that it releases a couple of drops of milk. Try it out before administering it, so you can gauge the pressure. The puppy should be able to suckle on its own after a bit. There are many videos available on Youtube, should you need further help.

Once again, do not overfeed and don’t feed too quickly. If the pup aspirates, it can cause pneumonia and excess consumption will cause diarrhea. Keep an eye on its nose- if bubbles start to come out of its nose, means the milk is flowing too fast. The holes may be too large or the position the pup is held in, may be wrong. If the holes in the pipette are too few or little, the pup can end up bloated because of ingesting too much air.

Another option, which is quite controlled, is feeding the pup using a 5 ml syringe (without the needle obviously). The same principles apply here too. Do not rush the feeding and clean the pup with a slightly damp cloth if messy. Dry it well before you leave it in its box.

After each feeding hold the puppy upright with its tummy against your shoulder and pat it gently until it burps, releasing trapped air.

Clean all the implements well before the next feed. It is best to clean them with boiled water and change the pipette/bottles/syringes often. DO NOT use detergent as it is stubborn and doesn't wash off with ease.

Around the time weaning begins (about 5th week), put small quantities of the puppy’s food into shallow bowls or saucers. They may make a mess at first, but this is necessary for them to learn so that they are weaned by the end of the sixth week.

Interval

Please remember that there are many breeds of dogs and the amount they consume will largely depend on their size and weight. We will still try to provide you with a general feeding guideline to help. However, please consult with your Vet on quantities and frequency.

Birth to First week

Puppies are born blind, with little fur. Their muzzles tend to be pinkish. They are unable to walk and are totally dependent on their mother.

Puppy’s weight: Approx 80-100 gms at birth

What to feed: Milk replacer formula

No. of feeds (in 24 hrs): 7-8 (gap of four hours can be given at night)

Amount per feed: About 3-4 ml

Increase by 0.5 ml everyday

Week two

Their coats become more dense and their sense of smell slowly develops. They start crawling around.

Puppy’s weight: Approx 200-250 gms

No. of feeds (in 24 hrs): 6-8 feeds (gap of four to five hours can be given at night)

Amount per feed: About 8-10 ml

Increase by 1 ml everyday

Week three

At 15 days, their eyes should begin to open. Their ears open up as well and start to become more erect. They should be able to stand up and their movements will be better coordinated.

Puppy’s weight: Approx 400-500 gms

No. of feeds (in 24 hrs): 6-7 feeds (gap of six hours can be given at night)

One fourth of an egg yellow can be introduced and spread over (mixed into) a few meals. Cerelac can be given if recommended by Vet

Amount per feed: About 15-17 ml

Increase by 1.5- 2 ml everyday

Week four

At the end of the third week, they start teething. They will respond to sight, sound and start to become quite playful.

Puppy’s weight: Approx 1 kg

No. of feeds (in 24 hrs): 6 feeds (gap of six hours can be given at night)

half an egg yellow spread over a few meals, cerelac and introduction of pellets made soggy, or rotis made soggy with formula

Amount per feed: About 25-35 ml

Week five

They should start to eat on their own and poop-training can begin.

Puppy’s weight: Approx 2 kg

No. of feeds (in 24 hrs): 4-5 feeds

half an egg yellow spread over a few meals, cerelac and introduction of pellets made soggy, or

rotis made soggy with formula. Gradually decrease the amount of formula but replace it with other nutritional food stuff, as the week progresses.

Amount per feed: About 50-70ml

Week six-eight

The puppies are now far more agile and playful and should be able to eat dry kibble. At eight weeks they can be spayed, after consulting with your Vet.

Puppy’s weight: Approx 3-5 kg

Feeds per day: 4

At the end of six weeks the kitten must be weaned completely.

Once the formula is stopped you can give the pup dry pellets (of puppy food) made soggy with water, or you can try roti/rice, boiled mashed vegetables, chicken broth, boiled chicken, lentils, curd. Ask the Vet for the best option for your breed and also ask for additional supplements like calcium to be added to their food.

At around ten weeks the pup can be introduced to dry food (kibble). Make sure plenty of water is available at all times. Adult dogs are generally restricted to two meals a day.

*Mix 1g powder to 4 ml water, until dissolved.  |  In essence a ration of 1:4 (water to powder respectively).

You can download a print friendly version of the food chart from here -

Week 01 to 04

Week 05 to 10

  HELPING THEM ELIMINATE

Puppies that are very young cannot defecate by themselves. They are normally aided by their mother. Incase of an orphaned/rescued pup, a cotton ball or tissue will have to be wet with warm water and used to massage (be very gentle) the urinary orifice and anus after feeds. Don't be alarmed though, if they don't defecate after every feed. Normal stools are yellowish and of a jam-like consistency. Make sure the pup is completely dry when you put it back in its box. By the time they are three weeks old, they should be able to eliminate by themselves. You can start potty training around the age of five weeks or so.

Poo that is clumped together in a cheesy consistency can be caused if the formula is too concentrated. If the puppy is straining to poop and constipated, it needs more frequent meals and hydration (more water in the formula).

In case of diarrhea, constipation or any other abnormalities, do not take it lightly. Please contact your Vet at the earliest and have the pup examined.

  DEWORMING AND VACCINES

Deworming dogs and puppies is essential. The first dose of deworming is given around 4 weeks of age. Then at six and eight weeks again. However, you must consult a Vet before administering deworming medication. The dosage depends on their weight, so follow the doctor’s instructions and do not administer any more or less than the said dosage. Ask your Vet about the dose, frequency and brand of medication.

Vaccines are a must to prevent diseases like distemper, rabies and a host of other illnesses that almost always prove fatal. The first vaccine is typically given at 6-8 weeks of age, after which the Vet will inform you about the vaccination schedule. Follow their instructions and make sure they get all their vaccines on time. Do not compromise on the quality of vaccines. Our (adult) dogs are vaccinated once a year with a seven in one vaccine.

Vaccines need to be kept cool at a certain temperature for them to be effective when administered. Do observe that these steps are taken before your dog is vaccinated.

If your puppy/dog is not its usual self after deworming or vaccinations, inform the Vet to be on the safer side.

ADOPTION AND REHABILITATION

If you are unable to keep the dog/pup you have hand reared, you can give it up for adoption. It is advisable to wait until they are about two to two and a half months old, but it largely depends on the progress of the puppy, so ask the Vet too. If they are healthy at this age, ask the vet about spaying them. Contacting local shelters, Vets and putting up a picture and description on facebook has worked for us in the past. There is no way of making sure, but try and ascertain that they have been adopted into good homes where they will be well fed and loved.

If you should find an injured dog or pup, it is best to call for assistance (either an NGO, shelter or basically someone with experience), provide the dog in question with some food and water and make sure they are safely transported to a place which will treat them. An injured dog/pup may perceive you as a threat, so approach it gradually, maybe even with food. Once it is treated by a professional and has had time to recuperate in your care, you can release it where you found it. Consider getting the dog spayed before you let it back onto the streets. This could actually make all the difference.

Note: The normal rectal temperature of a newborn pup is between 34-36 degrees C.

By the second week it should be about 36-37 degrees C and by four weeks, up to 37-38.8 degrees C (100-102F).

A dog’s temperature is taken by inserting a thermometer into the dog’s rectum. Please do not attempt this unless you’ve had sufficient experience or have been  taught by your Vet. If you are unsure, do not attempt this; it is best left to the doctor.

Note: Never give a dog chocolate. Never give them nuts, grapes or raisins either.

NOTE:

There information provided here has been put together based on what we thought were reliable sources and also mostly from experience. However, this is no substitute for a consultation with a doctor. Please to consult a Vet and run all the information by them.

  Bibliography

(We’d like to thank)

  Lucy, Bambi and Brownz

http://www.wikihow.com/Care-for-Newborn-Puppies

http://www.hartz.com/Dogs/Hartz_Nursery/Puppy_Articles/milestones_in_a_puppys_development.aspx

We are reaching the month of May, it's scorching and the birds are on the lookout for a drop of water. It doesn't take much for each of us to share a bowl of water and a handful grain, to provide some respite to them.  Let's see you fill the bowls full and fill good.

Note: Birds are generally suspicious, it may take a couple of months to start visiting regularly.

As summer makes its way here, many critters find themselves parched and in need of grub and water. As the water bodies dry up, both become harder to find. 

It doesn't take much to help. All you have to do is, put out a handful of grains and a little water. You will soon see that a little bit goes a long way.

Bird feeders are a great way to provide the much needed food and water, even if you're short on space. We've tried to use materials that you'd have lying around the house already. It's a fun DIY project and one that you can attempt with your kids.

SUPPLIES

PET bottle or Tetra pack

These will serve as the main container for the bird feeder.

Kitchen knife or Cutter

A heated knife can be used to cut through a PET bottle. A cutter can cut through plastic and the tetra pack. 

Pencils or Sticks/Twigs

Pencils will be used to make a perch for the birds on the feeder. Chopsticks or twigs from a tree can be used as a substitute.

Needle, Thread, Scissors

A thick thread/string that will hold the weight of the feed and container can be used to hang the feeder.

BIRD FEEDER 1

Step On\With the help of a cutter, cut out the mid section of a used PET bottle. Gouge out 4 holes in the bottom section- two pairs of holes, made opposite each other, at different heights.

Step Two: Insert pencils or any kind of sticks through the holes- if it is a large bottle, you will require longer sticks. This forms the perch. 

Step Three: Make a hole in the centre of the bottle cap, wide enough for a thick string or thread. Pass the string through the hole and knot it at one end and make a loop at the other.

Step Four: Fill the bottom section of the bottle with jawar, bajra, sunflower seeds and flax seeds. Hang it in your balcony or from a tree in your garden, where birds are most likely to visit.

DIY SHEET 01

You can download a print friendly version of this DIY sheet from this link - Sheet 01

BIRD FEEDER 2

Step One: With the help of a cutter, cut out the mid section of a used tetra pack, as shown. Gouge out 4 holes in the top part- two pairs of holes, made opposite each other, at different heights.

Step Two: Insert a pencil or any kind of stick through the hole. Tie a thick thread or string around the protruding ends of the stick. This will help hang the container.

Step Three: Insert the second pencil from front to back and tie in the same way as the first. With the help of a needle and thread, fasten another stick at the end of the cut away section.

Step Four: Fill the bottom section of the pack with water or seeds. Hang it in your balcony or from a tree in your garden, where birds are likely to visit. Refill the container as often as you can.

DIY SHEET 02

You can download a print friendly version of this DIY sheet from this link - Sheet 02

For birds and other little critters, water is far more important (than food) in summer. If you're willing, invest in some earthen pots, some deep (but wide) and some flat. Put grains in the flat and shallow ones and fill the deep ones with water. They don't even have to be suspended; you can just leave it on the ground. This is a great way for them to have a plunge and cool off. The sights you will see as a result of this small gesture are priceless. 

We do this in our garden round the year and have everything from woodpeckers and kingfishers to partridges and peacocks visiting us.

Bibliography-

Funambulus pennantii

Squirrels belong to a larger family of small or medium-sized rodents known as the Sciuridae. The five-striped palm squirrel, also known as the Northern palm squirrel, inhabits a large part of North India, as its name suggests. It constitutes a large part of our urban wildlife and makes itself at home around virtually every part of human settlement.

These squirrels posses a body that is about the size of a rat, accompanied by a bushy tail. It gets its name from the five stripes of a light grey that intersperse the darker grey-brown tone of its fur coat. Three of these stripes run from head to tail. On the underside is a belly that is off-white in colour. Their facial features are characteristic of the rodent family with whiskers, beady black eyes and ears that are like a rounded triangle.

Their nests are made of grassy fibre, sometimes along with bits of fabric available to them from their surroundings. They reach sexual maturity at nine months and often give birth in litters of two or three.

What a lot of people don’t know, is that the Indian subcontinent is home to different types of squirrels-

The five-striped palm squirrel (also called Northern palm squirrel) distributed over a large part of northern India and the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, the three-striped palm squirrel (also called the Indian palm squirrel) found south of the Vindhyas and Sri Lanka, the jungle palm squirrel (also called the western ghats squirrel) found in subtropical or tropical dry forests and plantations in the western ghats, the dusky palm squirrel found in some parts of India and Sri Lanka.

  Identifying the age of a squirrel 

0-1 weeks: Completely pink skin exposed, with no signs of fur. Their eyes are closed, ears haven’t pricked up yet and their tail is ratty.

1-2 weeks: Some fur begins to appear and the demarcation of stripes starts to become visible. They rely on their mother for warmth.

2-4 weeks: Their eyes should now be open and their ears prick up. They start responding to their surroundings.

5-6 weeks: Their personality is slightly more curious and playful. The fur on their body is more dense.

7-8 weeks: They begin to gnaw at things as they teeth and their movements become more rapid.

8-12 weeks: They start to resemble adult squirrels and their coats develop a glossy sheen.

Baby squirrels are often displaced. It may be due to human intervention or because of predators like crows or cats. If you do chance upon a baby squirrel that has fallen out of its nest or seems to be abandoned, the best thing to try and do, is restore it to its nest. Before you decide to intervene, make sure your aid and intervention are absolutely necessary. Often you will hear the baby give out a ‘distress call’ and the mother is likely to respond. Keep the baby on a clean cloth where the mother can see it and watch from a safe distance for predators. If you stand too close to the baby, the mother squirrel will be too scared to come close. Keep an eye for predators until you know that both squirrels are likely to be safe. If you find a squirrel baby at dusk, it is best to take it inside and try to return it back to its mother early the next morning. If you are sure the squirrel baby has been abandoned and is too small to fend for itself, take it into your home.

  List of supplies

-Shoe box, at least 6 inches in height

-Basket

-Newspapers

-Pieces of cloth

-Thick/warm towel or blanket/fleece

-Tissue/Toilet paper

-Cotton

-Hot water bag or heating pad (cold climate)

-Beaphar Lactol (comes with a feeding bottle)

-Syringe 2ml-5ml (without needle)

-Tweezers

  SHELTER

Newborn squirrels are completely dependent on their mother for warmth. Up until the point that fur starts to appear on their bodies, they are even more fragile and susceptible and lack of warmth can prove fatal. The baby’s environment shouldn’t be too hot either. This will again cause discomfort and lead to complications because they cannot regulate their body temperature (lack of thermoregulation).

If the orphaned squirrel is below 4 weeks old, you can house it in a shoe box. Pierce the box with enough holes so that it remains well ventilated, but doesn’t allow drafts of cold air. Line it with a newspaper and on top of that a thick/warm napkin or towel. Make sure you lay it in a way that it has a few folds, into which the baby squirrel can snuggle. In case of cold weather, you can use bits of an old blanket or fleece, which is very warm. Hot water bags can also be introduced in this scenario, but make sure it has been wrapped in at least two layers of cloth, so as not to burn the baby. Heating pads may also be used. In both cases, make sure there is constant supervision.

If the baby squirrel is slightly older than 4 weeks, you can use the same bedding materials and house it in a basket (wicker or plastic) that is well ventilated. They must now to allowed to explore their surroundings before you return them to their box/basket. Gradually increase their time away from the basket and let them roam.

They must be kept in a very hygienic environment (since they are so fragile and can catch an infection easily), so change the bedding often. This also helps because some squirrels may have fleas or mites.

Sometimes if a squirrel is too small to groom itself, it may have mites or fleas in excess- Do not put any sort of flea powder on them and do not bathe them. Consult a veterinarian for possible solutions- they will best advise you on how to tackle this problem. Don’t leave it unattended to because it may lead to a bad infestation and harm the squirrel.

We have tried introducing small stuffed toys into their box/basket, which some squirrels enjoy curling around. Again, make sure it is something that can be cleaned and not something in which they can get tangled. An observation we’ve made over the years, is that squirrels like body heat and given a chance, will be more than happy to snooze in the palm of your hand.

When they are about 7-8 weeks old, they can be introduced into an enclosed room (free from any predators) with windows (which should be closed initially). Keep their box/basket open in the room. This way, they can explore and return to a secure space when they please.

What we also do often is fold half of the curtain, to create a space in the middle where the squirrel can tuck itself in. This has proven to be popular with most all of them. If you have expensive curtains, you may want to avoid this since they may gnaw at most anything. They like dark and snug spaces so feel free to add things they might enjoy nesting in.

  FOOD

What to feed

Opinions on what to feed a baby squirrel are varied. While we will share with you, what has worked for us over the years, we strongly recommend that you consult a Vet about the type of food, quantities, intervals and supplements if any.

What we have been using, is Beaphar’s Lactol, which is a milk replacer (for puppies) fortified with vitamins. It is easily available in pet stores in most Indian cities. If you can’t find Lactol, look for KMR or any puppy/kitten milk replacer. It is a bit expensive- Approximately 500 rupees for a 250g pack, but squirrels find it hard to digest cow/buffalo milk. On the up side, it comes with a feeding bottle that is pretty handy.

All equipment used for feeding must be cleaned thoroughly with hot water before feeds. Wash with hot water and don’t use any detergent since it is stubborn and not easy to wash off. Dispose the syringe periodically and replace it with a new one.

The instructions on the lactol box say 30g powder for 105ml of water, which means roughly 0.25g powder for 1ml of water. Measure out 0.25g lactol powder in a 2ml syringe (till the 0.25ml mark) and measure 1ml of warm (not hot or boiling) water. Mix both together till the powder has dissolved completely. The consistency should be that of milk and all lumps must be dissolved.

Pour it into a clean 2ml syringe and make sure it is about body temperature before feeding. It is best to make the mixture fresh each time, because it can go stale after a period of time. This could affect the baby squirrel adversely and lead to complications.

Note: Overfeeding comes with its own problems, like diarrhea, so it is always better to give small, frequent feeds rather than feed too much at a time.

  Dealing with dehydration

Often a baby squirrel may be dehydrated by the time you rescue it. A characteristic of this condition is its skin being wrinkled- if pinched (very gently) takes a while to settle down. Many people suggest that is it better to rehydrate a squirrel using a solution of pedialyte before starting it on regular feeds. If pedialyte isn’t readily available, add 1 teaspoon salt plus 2-3 teaspoons of sugar or Glucon D to one litre of water and mix well (recommended by someone who has raised many squirrels). Feed it small frequent feeds until it appears well hydrated (resumes normal behaviour, is not lethargic, skin is plump) and then start it on regular feeds. If you have a Vet’s number handy, it is best to ask their advice on the subject.

  Weaning

Around the age of 5-6 weeks, you can introduce bits of apple, banana, grape and bits of marie biscuit made soggy (with formula) into the squirrels diet. The process of weaning can commence when the squirrel is about 8 weeks of age. This is achieved by very gradually reducing the quantity of formula and replacing it with solid foods. You begin offering a variety of fruits and nuts, even bits of marie biscuit. Encourage it to eat on its own and keep a bowl of fresh water available to it at all times. Reduce the amount of formula such that by the age of 12 weeks, it is completely weaned.

  How to Feed

The best way to feed a squirrel, we’ve found, is with the help of a 2ml disposable syringe- easily available at a regular chemist. They can be easily sterilised (very essential) before feeds and the flow of formula can be controlled so that the baby squirrel doesn’t aspirate.

‘Pinkies’, as they are commonly referred to (0-1 weeks, no fur and closed eyes), are so tiny, that feeding them can pose a challenge. In this case you can purchase a ‘scalp vein set’, discard the needle, attach it to the nozzle of the syringe and cut the pipe about half a centimeter from the nozzle. This makes it easier to feed something so tiny, without letting it aspirate.

Push the plunger down very slowly, especially if the baby is less than a week old. In the case of ‘pinkies’ release no more than a tiny drop at a time. When they are slightly older they will get used to feeding by this method.

Baby squirrels should be fed while resting on their stomach and not on their back. Set it on its stomach, raise its head slightly and gently insert the tip of the syringe or pipe into its mouth. Apply just enough pressure on the plunger to release a tiny drop of milk at a time. The baby should be able to suckle on its own after a bit. Remember, the smaller the baby, the slower you depress the plunger.

Once again, do not overfeed and don’t feed too quickly. If the squirrel aspirates, it can cause pneumonia and excess consumption will cause diarrhea. Keep an eye on its nose- if bubbles start to come out of its nose, means the formula is flowing too fast.

We know that this can be overwhelming for a person who has never done it before- if you can, ask someone with a fair bit of experience, or a Vet to demonstrate how it is done.

  You can download the printable version of the chart from the links given below - 

Chart 01

Chart 02

Chart 03

How much and When

Note: 0.1 ml equals 2 drops.

1ml equals (roughly) 18-20 drops

*Mix 0.25g powder to 1 ml water, until dissolved.  |  In essence a ration of 1:4 (water to powder respectively).

  Birth to First week

Completely pink skin exposed with no signs of fur. Their eyes are closed, ears haven’t pricked up yet and their tail is ratty.

What to feed: Milk replacer formula such as Lactol. 

No. of feeds (in 24 hrs): About 9 feeds

Interval: Round the clock- 2-2.5 hours in the day, 3-4 hours at night

Amount per feed: About 0.1ml, gradually increased to 0.2ml by the end of week one.

  Week Two

The baby should look slightly healthier (more plump), the skin changes to a darker pink with the stripes more prominent and the emergence fur is seen.

What to feed: Milk replacer formula such as Lactol. 

No. of feeds (in 24 hrs): About 8 feeds

Interval: Round the clock- 2.5-3 hours in the day, 4-5 hours at night

Amount per feed: Start with 0.2ml, increase by one drop every alternate day. By the end of week two- 0.4ml

  Week Three

After 14 days their eyes should start to open, the pink exposed skin will disappear

What to feed: Milk replacer formula such as Lactol. 10% of a boiled egg-yellow can be introduced in two feeds (mix into formula) of the day.

No. of feeds (in 24 hrs): About 7 feeds

Interval: Round the clock- 2.5-3 hours in the day, 6 hours at night

Amount per feed: At the end of the week it should consume about 1ml-1.5ml

Week Four

Their ears will have pricked up, they respond to their surroundings and are more coordinated in their movements

What to feed: Milk replacer formula such as Lactol. Increase the amount of boiled egg-yellow and spread it over three feeds (mix into formula) of the day. Introduce bits of grape, apple, banana for it to nibble on. Make fresh water available at all times.

No. of feeds (in 24 hrs): About 5-6 feeds

Interval: Round the clock- 3 hours in the day, 7-8 hours at night

Amount per feed: At the end of the week it should consume about 2ml-2.5ml

Week Five

They are more alert and their movements become more rapid.

What to feed: Milk replacer formula such as Lactol. Increase the amount of boiled egg-yellow and spread it over three feeds (mix into formula) of the day. Introduce bits corn (it can be frozen corn, brought to room temperature by soaking in hot water) and harder fruit along with grape, apple, banana for it to nibble on. Add marie biscuits made soggy with formula. Make food and fresh water available at all times.

No. of feeds (in 24 hrs): About 5-6 feeds

Interval: Round the clock- 4 hours in the day, 8 hours at night

Amount per feed: At the end of the week it should consume about 3ml-4ml

Week Six

They become rather playful and curious, scamper about and start teething (given them things to gnaw on).

What to feed: Milk replacer formula such as Lactol. Increase the amount of boiled egg-yellow and spread it over three feeds (mix into formula) of the day. Introduce bits corn, melon, chikoo, grape, apple, banana for it to nibble on. Add pieces of marie biscuit and some nuts like sunflower seeds, cashews, sesame seeds. Make food and fresh water available at all times.

No. of feeds (in 24 hrs): About 4 feeds

Interval: Round the clock- 4 hours in the day, 8-10 hours at night

Amount per feed: At the end of the week it should consume about 5ml.

  Week Seven

They should be considerably bigger from when you got them. Squirrels are very playful and affectionate so make sure you give them a lot of attention and indulge in the aforementioned.

What to feed: Milk replacer formula such as Lactol. Increase the amount of boiled egg-yellow and spread it over three feeds (mix into formula) of the day. Introduce bits corn, melon, chikoo, grape, apple, banana for it to nibble on. Add pieces of marie biscuit and some nuts like sunflower seeds, cashews, sesame seeds. Make food and fresh water available at all times.

No. of feeds (in 24 hrs): About 3-4 feeds

Interval: morning, afternoon, evening

Amount per feed: At the end of the week it should consume about 6ml-7ml

Week Eight

Starts to resemble an adult squirrel

What to feed: Milk replacer formula such as Lactol. Increase the amount of boiled egg-yellow and spread it over three feeds (mix into formula) of the day. Introduce bits corn, melon, chikoo, grape, apple, banana for it to nibble on. Add pieces of marie biscuit and some nuts like sunflower seeds, cashews, sesame seeds. Make food and fresh water available at all times.

No. of feeds (in 24 hrs): About 2 feeds

Interval: morning and evening

Amount per feed: At the end of the week it should consume about 7ml

Months 2-3

By the end of the third month, the squirrel should be completely weaned. Make all the aforementioned foods and water available at all times.

Months 3-4

They will spend most of the day exploring outdoors and will only return, possibly at night, so leave lots of food and water available at all time. The visits will get more scarce and short as they learn to fend for themselves. At this point we also start putting food outside the window, just on the ledge, for rehabilitation purposes.

  Note: Squirrels need sufficient calcium and vitamin D, lack of which will cause them to have seizures and bone deformities. Which is why, we recommend a good milk replacer. Do ask the Vet for additional supplements. Often we’ve added a probiotic like Sporlac (a good aid for digestion and is available in sachets) to their meals. However, do so only after consulting with your Vet.

  Elimination (the word on poo)

Young squirrels are normally aided by their mother when it comes to defecating. In case of an orphaned/rescued squirrel, a cotton ball or tissue will have to be wet with warm water and used to massage (be very gentle) the urinary orifice and anus. This should help the process of elimination. Make sure the baby is completely dry when you put it back in its box. By the time they are three to four weeks old, they should be able to eliminate by themselves.

Keep an eye on the poop because it’s a good indicator of whether you need to change consistency or quantity of the feed- if on a milk replacer diet, it tends to be yellow-ish and if solids have been introduced it will be a brown-black. However, it should never be runny. If you observe that it is so, contact a vet immediately.

 REHABILITATION

Like we said before, when they are about 8 weeks old, they can be introduced into an enclosed room (free from any predators) with windows (which should be closed initially). Keep their box/basket open in the room. This way, they can explore and return to a secure space when they please (check the Shelter section for more details).

At about 14-16 weeks of age, the process of rehabilitation has to begin. It has to be a gradual process to make sure that the squirrel is well fed and discovering the outside world simultaneously. What we do at this stage is, open the window a tad (just enough for a squirrel to go in and out). Check the surroundings for predators and make sure the squirrel has a safe passage to go in and out of the room at all times. Sometimes structures can be added to make this process easier.

Leave plenty of food and water on the window sill, at first inside the room, then on the ledge outside.

As the squirrel becomes more adept at fending for itself, its visits will become shorter and more scarce. Initially it may come back several times in the day and then just for the nights. At the end of 16 weeks, the squirrel may return only occasionally. When this does happen, all the sleep deprived nights and months of fretting and fussing over the most minute things, will be worth it.

Note: Remember at all times that squirrels are after all rodents and they can carry rabies. If bitten, it is best to see a doctor.

There is a lot of information provided here has been put together based on what we thought were reliable sources and also from experience. However, this is no substitute for a consultation with a vet. Please to consult a vet at the earliest and run all the information by them.

If you find an adult squirrel that is unable to scamper away or is injured, make sure you catch it with a pair of oven-mitts or a towel and rapidly transport it to a basket or box that has been made ready (as described in the shelter section). Adult squirrels can bite if they feel threatened.

In case of any injury, please contact a Vet or an animal shelter at the earliest. Also, as soon as you find a baby squirrel, it is best to have it checked by the Vet, to make sure there are no internal injuries.

Note: Squirrels need to constantly gnaw at things because their teeth are always growing. It is very important to provide bits of wood and sticks to them. Not doing so can cause serious problems to their teeth.

Albinism, though rare, does exist in squirrels.

*This post was constructed for a five-striped palm squirrel, because that's what we've had the most experience with. However, if you do rescue another type of squirrel, the same information should apply. It will be best if you check with the Vet though, before administering anything to the rescued squirrel.

  Bibliography-

Pencil illustration of adult squirrel

Art Director: Dhun Karkaria

Illustrator: Vijay Shrimali

CEE

Pencil illustration of juvenile squirrel

Art Director: Dhun Karkaria

Illustrator: Vijay Shrimali

Wikipedia 

The stray dog population is forever on the rise and we know a fair number of people who’ve gone on to adopt them- maybe not as house pets, but they do feed them and care for them as they would, a pet. The best thing, is to have a dog sterilised, but since this isn’t always easy to do with stray dogs, you end up encountering ‘puppy season’. People want to know how they can help a pregnant female dog, so we’ll try our best, through this post, to run you through the process. Your intervention will depend on the nature of your relationship with the dog. HEAT

Estrus is the mating period for dogs. When estrus occurs, dogs are said to be ‘in heat’. Dogs can go into heat as early as six months of age. It takes place about twice a year and lasts anywhere between four to ten days. Unlike cats, it is easy to spot in dogs and is characterised by a swelling of the vulva, vaginal bleeding and excessive urination. The female dog will only go into heat if she hasn’t been spayed/sterilised. If she happens to mate during this period, there is a good chance puppies are on their way.

GESTATION

The gestation period is an average of 63 days. It is likely to vary, but most people say that anywhere between 56-66 days is considered normal. After or during this term, you can expect puppies. If the pregnancy exceeds this term, it is best to contact a vet and ask their opinion on the subject. If the puppies are born before the mentioned gestation period, they might be premature. Consult a doctor or an animal shelter in this case. SIGNS AND STAGES

Most of us want to know what to look out for, to tell if the dog is pregnant. With pet dogs it may be easier to tell, but here are some signs you can look out for-

In the first few weeks of pregnancy, you may notice signs of slight weight gain.

During the third or fourth week of the pregnancy, the dog may sometimes experience morning sickness, as is the case with humans. This should last only a few days, but she may appear apathetic, show a lack of interest in her food and may vomit now and then. Feeding smaller meals more frequently may help. If she goes off her food for an extended period, contact a Vet.

Between the fifth and sixth week, the teats begin to swell and darken and the size of the mother’s belly will increase visibly.

As birthing draws near, the female dog’s mammary glands will enlarge and a milky fluid may be produced from the teats.

During this term, you may also see a decline in the level of activity. Some dogs will experience exhaustion and tend to rest more.

As far as behavioural changes go, some dogs become quite affectionate or even clingy and want security. Some tend to be moody and prefer solitude.

Something, that we’ve observed is the act of ‘nesting’ and digging (accompanied by panting, sometimes) as the birthing time comes closer.

Couple of things to note- A lot of dogs experience swelling of the breasts after a normal heat period, so don’t jump to the conclusion that she is pregnant. Second, dogs are also known to go through a ‘pseudo pregnancy’, in which they go through the motions of a pregnancy (milk in the teats, ‘nesting’ activity, exhaustion), are convinced the puppies are coming, but there’s nothing there. We recommend minimum intervention if the dog in question isn’t a pet. However, if you share a close relationship with the dog, pregnancies can be determined by a Vet palpating the abdomen (after 35 days) or an ultrasound. Palpating the female’s abdomen requires experience, so leave it to a professional. Prodding the mother’s abdomen excessively can damage the fetuses.

For a print friendly version, please click here - Dog Pregnancy Chart.

FOOD AND SHELTER (pre delivery)

As the puppies grow in the mother’s belly, her nutritional needs will increase (in the second half of the pregnancy). She not only needs more food, but also food that better suits her need. If you’re feeding her just milk and roti (or something like that) it is not likely to suffice. One option is to buy puppy food, packets of which are readily available in various brands. You can ask a Vet, shelter or an experienced person for recommendations. Puppy food is more nutritious than regular dog food and will cover the mother’s needs. If you aren’t keen on puppy food (dry kibble), you can try boiled chicken (with some broth)  with roti or cooked rice. From the time you learn about the pregnancy, increase the dogs diet slightly. By the ninth week, you can give her 20-30% more food than she would usually consume. Try not to overfeed, since obesity will come with its own set of complications during delivery. If you’re dealing with a domestic dog, you can ask the Vet if any supplements are needed. As far as shelter is concerned, the last couple of  weeks is when the dog will start looking for a place she can have her litter. Her criteria is likely to be somewhere secluded, away from any predators obviously, a warm space, a place where she will feel secure leaving her babies while she goes out to get food.  If you’re willing to share your space for a bit, then put a cardboard box (it has to be spacious) in a secure area, somewhere she is familiar with already. This is commonly referred to as a ‘whelping box’. You can start giving her food near this space so she can further familiarise herself with it. Line the box with newspapers and some cloth that will keep the litter warm. Don’t use any material in which their tiny claws can get stuck.

Make sure that she has constant access to this space. Newborns rely heavily on their mother and a long separation can prove fatal. Even though you should keep an eye on the dog and her litter, do it from a distance. Try not to encroach on her space so she feels safe. DELIVERY

A week or two prior to labor, a dog might begin to dig into anything available to her- newspapers, blankets, rugs etc- this is her attempt at a nest for her young. A day or two before the mother goes into labor, she may be seen getting anxious and restless and may even pace around. She will also begin ascertaining the space where she’d like to have her litter. If she has chosen a space, place food and water near there and try to make yourself scarce. If you have kids or other pets in the house, keep them away from this space. Many have observed that the pregnant dog may also go off her food 24 hours prior to delivery.

There is often some sort of discharge that precedes the birthing. Her breathing may become more rapid as well and shivering and vomiting has been observed in some cases. As the dog goes into labor, she will start straining and puppies are likely to appear between 20 minutes of each other. However, if the mother has been in labor for over two hours and you don’t see any sign of a pup, it is probably a good idea to contact the Vet and ask for a consult. The newborn puppy will be encased in a sac of fluid which the mother the lick in a vigorous manner to clear the airway so it can breathe easily. This will also stimulate their circulation. The pups will begin to suckle almost immediately.

In some cases the mother doesn’t completely free the pup from the fluid sac. This can obstruct its breathing. You may attempt to replicate what the mother does and massage the young one with a soft towel.

It is rare, but in some cases the mother doesn’t completely free the pup from the fluid sac. This can obstruct its breathing. If you do share a close bond with the dog, you may attempt to replicate what the mother does and massage the young one with a soft towel. If you see the umbilical cord still attached then call a Vet for advice. If not, place the newborn near the mother’s teat for it to start nursing.

Do not intervene during the birthing process unless you are absolutely sure that your aid is required.

POST DELIVERY

After the whole process is over the mother (considerably weakened and exhausted) will have a drink of water or eat something. If you know that she has a favourite type of food, now is a good time to provide it. Leave the food and water for her to consume as and when she pleases and keep your distance. Replenish it when necessary. Keep an eye on her and her brood (proximity is decided by the relationship you share) and report to the doctor should you find anything unnatural. If you have friends who’ve dealt with this sort of thing before, keep them in the loop and update them on the progress- they should be able to point out if anything is abnormal. The mother will also need a lot of nutrition while nursing the pups, so make sure you maintain the pregnancy diet as best you can. The quantity will now depend on the number of pups (for stray dogs, we’ve observed three to four to be the average litter) she nurses. You can ask a professional to advise you on how much and how many times. DOs & DON'Ts

Do not palpate the abdomen yourself. Leave this to the Vet.

Refrain from putting flea powder or tic powder. If you must, ask a Vet what is suitable for use during the pregnancy.

Do not administer any medication- no deworming and vaccinations. Only things prescribed by a doctor should be given. Inform the doctor of the pregnancy so they can prescribe accordingly.

Do not overfeed during the initial stages of the pregnancy. Weight gain during this period may result in difficulties in delivery.

Keep a Vet’s number handy.

Trust your instincts, call the Vet if you find anything abnormal. No harm in being cautious.