Peak Tan

From the top of Mauna Kea on the Big Island of Hawaii you can spot lava cracks from Kilauea and the unmistakable cluster of the Milky Way.

It was a long drive up the mountain in a small rental car without 4x4 and as we climbed further and further the landscape become a moonscape. When we stepped outside to take the first photos we were slapped in the face by the cold. We made our way through the ashen dirt, our footprints like forgotten astronauts.

We clicked and clicked then warmed up in the car, each taking turns on our galactic perch. As we turned the camera back down the hill, we spotted the break of lava and captured this picture.

Jay Fai cooks every dish that is presented to customers. And since the recent Michelin star that means even more diners than ever before. While it means that dishes come out slowly, you know her hand has been involved in all of them. Even when you see one of her daughters rolling an omelet in oil, she is the one guiding her hands when to turn it over and when to serve. 

Phad Khee Mao. The flavors are traditional and well executed with a strong wok hei essence. Since everyone in Thailand eats with just a spoon and fork the chunks of green pepper are too big for a single bite which makes for awkward eating. While the prawns are just slightly over-cooked they are large quality shrimp and still freshly crisp. The sauce is rich and browned to the edge of burning - perfect. Large slices of red pepper with menacing seeds. One baby corn and three prawns. 500 baht.

 The famous crab omelet. Actually the crab curry egg looked better on menu but I had to try to the dish that earned her the Michelin star.  Perfectly browned omelet, quite tricky to do in a wok, as it must be constantly rolled in the oil to prevent overcooking. The sheet of egg is stuffed full of crab (received earlier just a couple hours earlier in foam crates of ice) and is of good quality. The crab is delicately flavored and wouldn't pair well with anything more strongly flavored than light curry or even just egg. Does the generous helping of crab justify the ‎฿1000 price tag? 

And this is the only lingering question. Are her prices worth the premium? She undoubtedly uses the best ingredients she can get and prepares each dish with care. But so do many other cooks in Thailand - are her dishes worth 3-5x more than theirs? 

It's clear that Jay Fai creates delicious food and is as dedicated as ever to her craft. While she has since become disenchanted with the Michelin star - the incessant lines, the constant critiques, the visits from the tax officials; she still keeps creating great food and in a kitchen that has 30+ years of black oil coating the partitions by the woks as testament to her dedication and skill. 

And like only a few other great chefs, notably Eric Ripert, she has not used her name and fame to create frozen meals, nationwide chains, or even modernize her eatery with giant filament bulbs. She has also decided not to pass down her recipes or knowledge since the restaurant has already made enough for her family to live comfortably and she does not want them working as relentlessly as she does. Now in her seventies retirement is bound to happen at some point. And while it's hard to encourage more visitors to her already crowded restaurant it's worth a visit before she finally does decide to hang up her goggles. And you will be able to answer that lingering question for yourself.