I am over 40. This is not an admission of wrongdoing, it's a warning sign over the door. Please don't follow me if you're underaged.
I am genderfluid, bi and queer. I am a gymrat. I drink protein shakes and use "dude" as a gender neutral term of affection.
This blog is currently infected with Locked Tomb brainrot. If you don't want to see such content, please blacklist "The Locked Tomb," I do tag fairly rigorously.
Non-fandom things I love: Circus, fiber arts, native plants, cats, fragrance geekery. Probably some other things I'm forgetting about.
I write stuff sometimes. Maybe you'll see me link to my writing every now and then.
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the best fanfiction you've ever read was written by a woman in her 40s before she made dinner for her kids. it was written by a teenager after school when they should've been studying for a history test. and a barista came up with the idea while they cleaned the espresso machine and busser fact-checked it on their break and the post-doc edited between writing grant proposals and the nurse apologized for typos in the notes after a long shift and behind every drabble and one-shot and multi-chapter fic there is a person with a wonderful and interesting and chaotic life and it is such a privilege that we get to be apart of it because they decided to do this thing we all share, for fun.
Another reason to have a union: We're getting an article in our contract governing the use of AI in the workplace protecting our payrate and classification if AI changes our duties, and ensuring that when AI makes more work that work is done by human workers instead of creating a doom loop of AI trying to resolve AI produced problems.
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this Kinktober I think ao3 users should celebrate being the only fanfic platform that’s censorship free and write the most freaky, perverted, diabolical smut they possibly can
I can't take anyone seriously if they casually advocate for putting someone on a psychiatric hold (5150, Baker Act) for anything short of imminent danger.
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Ive said something like this before but one of the most morbidly funny side effects of people arguing about if trans men belong in "the queer community" is how often it reveals they dont know any cis queer men and dont think of them as part of the "the queer community" either. "Are masculine men allowed to be queer? What about people's fear of masculine men?" Have you never seen pictures of a pride parade before. Is this your first day being queer. Do you know what a bear is. Are we having the "bears arent really gay" debate in 2026 but call it feminist now.
I’m not in the community that posted this but if you’ve never tasted the bitter agony of searching for a pairing you’ve only just considered to find it’s like one dedicated author who has churned out like 69 slightly better than mediocre fics you don’t know what a rare pair is.
[ID: screenshot of a poll whose question is, “what counts as a rare pair?” The options are: less than 300, less that 600, less than 800, less than 1000. /end ID]
I saw a post you made where you used the term “sewing practice” and I really loved that term. Do you have any advice for starting a sewing practice? I really want to start but I keep getting so intimidated. I have a machine and thread and fabric and patterns and everything I need but I’m so nervous to start. Im not sure why sewing specifically is so intimidating to me. I have been getting quite good at being a beginner/not great at things but sewing continues to be too scary
This is an interesting question! It had never occurred to me to think through what that would look like for someone who wasn't raised in one, since I've been sewing since I was a child. Let me try now. (edit: let me try now, then forget about this nearly-complete draft for ages. Sorry! Hope it's still useful, @deathcabforbooty)
My main gig is actually academic philosophy of science. In that field, we use the term 'scientific practice' to refer to the whole set of procedures, materials, and labour that goes into the making of scientific knowledge. The guy in a white lab coat dripping liquids into beakers is part of the scientific practice, but so is the person who cleans the beakers, the person who tracks and maintains the inventory of the lab, the contents of that inventory, the data processing methods that come after the scientist has dripped the liquid into the beaker, the funding scheme that determined that this is the experiment the scientist would conduct and what their budget would be, and all the techniques that everyone involved in this process use. If you want to read more about this in the context of science, I'd highly recommend the work of Hasok Chang. He's great.
In the context of sewing, the way to think of this is as a kind of ecosystem. The ecosystem has an output - whatever finished objects you intend to produce - but it also has a whole network of inputs, processes, and standards that define it. To successfully Do Sewing over a long period of time, you can't just think about one project at a time, you need to think about the whole system. This isn't an 'everything from scratch' kind of thought. The point is not to send you on a penitent tracing of the whole history of every ruler and pair of scissors. It's simply how to set up a system that works. As in the case of the scientist, there's a lot you can't make in-house. The scientist needs to buy their beakers and chemicals from somewhere, too, and they can't start doing science until they've got the right ones. And they can't know which are the right ones until they know what they're doing and why.
I'm going to break this down into three categories: Supplies, Equipment, Methods, and Goals.
This got really long, so the rest will be beneath this cut.
Supplies
A lot of new sewists try to do things one project at a time. Pick out a pattern, pick out a fabric, buy as much of it as the pattern says, get the notions, use all of it, and then hey presto, one garment. That's not how a laboratory operates. If you're committed to the idea that you're going to do this a whole bunch, you need supplies. You need supply lines. You need to know what to spend money on and what to not spend money on. You need to know where the good deals are.
At least for me, the main form this takes is making myself notable as a haver and collector of things people are getting rid of. I've picked up literal thousands of buttons from yard sales, old ladies who were downsizing, and (on one memorable occasion) a high school that was getting rid of 200 very smelly old school band uniforms. If there's a Centre for Creative Reuse near you, that's a good source. Getting to know old ladies is the best source, though. You only need to find the one who is the center of the local Old Lady Social Network and she'll tell you whenever Moira From Down the Street needs to get rid of some zippers.
(there are things you're probably not going to want to use vintage, though. Old thread is often not very functional. Also, with any old textile, be very careful about moths)
The other form this takes is knowing what to buy in bulk. For me, this is zippers and interfacing. You can get a 10-pack of zippers online (if you're in the states, WAWAK is your best source. One of the few things I miss about living there) for about the same price as a single zipper in the store. Similarly, buying interfacing by the yard is a sucker's game. Get a big roll of it online. You're always going to need it. You're similarly always going to need black thread and white thread and light grey thread (if you don't have a thread that matches your fabric, light grey is usually the best way to have that fact not stand out), so get a bunch. I do basically all of my own pattern drafting, so I also need to have a lot of paper. I use either butcher paper or medical exam table paper and buy it by the roll.
As for fabric itself, this will depend a lot on your goals, which we'll discuss later. But one of the best investments (of time, mostly) that you can make is finding a good place to store more fabric than you currently have. I use long (sealing) bins under my couch, mostly. But the point is that you have to plan to store a fair bit if you want this process to be sustainable, because sustainable practice requires you to pick up stuff whenever it's available, to keep your scraps, and to build up a stash. My sewing practice is made so much smoother by the fact that I always know I have some lining fabrics under the couch for whenever I need them, and more pleasant by the fact that I know I got them for a buck a yard from the bolt-end bin.
Equipment
You say you already have a sewing machine, which is good. For any reader who doesn't, I am unfortunately not a good source of advice on how to get one, since both of the machines I have owned in my life (and it's just two over 25 years of doing this) have simply come to me through the Old Lady Social Network. I know the basics (never buy something labeled as a 'travel' or 'portable' machine, or anything branded towards children, no matter how cheap) but no real recommendations beyond that.
But I can tell you the single most important thing I changed that turned me from 'someone who sews sometimes' to 'someone who sews all the time'. And that was getting a big ironing board and keeping it set up all the time.
As any sewist will tell you, 'sewing' is actually not a particularly accurate description of what you do as a sewist. Because most of it is ironing. You will always always always be ironing. So be ready to iron! Keep that thing set up and ready as much as possible, to keep the 'start-up energy' of sewing at a minimum. Similarly, having a surface for cutting that doesn't come into contact with anything that would be deleterious to cutting (eg. food) is an important part of the process too. I didn't have a table most of the time, but I had a set of thick foam floor mats that I could pull out when it was cutting time. You really don't want sewing to be competing for space with cooking or eating. The two do not mix well.
As for cutting tools themselves, I think most people can get by with two dedicated pairs of scissors: one for paper, one for fabric. These must be isolated from all other household scissors. They cannot be used elsewhere - especially the fabric scissors. Bad scissors lead to bad cutting which leads to bad results. Having dedicated tools is an ineliminable part of a sewing practice. Put a big label on them to dissuade other household members if you have to. You always need to know where your scissors are.
You're also going to need dedicated measuring tools. The tool I use most by far is my clear acryllic ruler. It's 18" long and suitable for most small-scale cutting and marking. Again, this should be a dedicated sewing-only tool. If people in your household start using it for other arts-n-crafts, it won't stay as clean as you need it to be.
How you organize your sewing space is up to you. Mine is never quite right. One thing you definitely want is a bin for scraps and offcuts that will accumulate during the sewing process. Don't throw them out unless they really are unusably tiny. And no effort of organizing is truly wasted. It may take a couple of tries to find a system you like, and there's no way to find it without trying.
Methods
This is where things are going to start to get a little more abstract. A lot of people new to sewing as a practice have not had the opportunity to think about their methods as a coherent category before. After all, when you buy a commercial pattern, it tells you what steps to do in what order. If you, dear reader, are a beginner, please keep doing that. You will feel like you don't need to do all the steps, that things like 'understitching' or 'clipping' seem like a pointless waste of time, but I implore you, read the instructions carefully before you start and follow them to the letter.
However. You will not always need to do that.
I don't really use commercial patterns anymore, but on the few occasions on which I do, my whole interaction with the instructions is to give them a quick once-over to see if they are recommending any interesting-looking techniques I haven't tried before, and if they're not, I then put away the instructions and never consult them again. This is because I have my own mental library of preferred methods for doing all the stuff I regularly do. Most of the time, these methods are a little more advanced than something a commercial pattern (which is always pitched at the lowest skill level it can feasibly get away with) would tell you to do. Often, they're for features that aren't commonly used in modern garments and for which I'll need to slightly modify the pattern or construction. I'm a big fan of all-in-one sleeve plackets, for instance.
A beginner absolutely should not ignore the instructions. But once you've got enough experience, you start to figure out how things logically have to work without needing to consult them. If I'm making a bodice with darts, I'm basically always going to want to do the darts first. If I'm making a vest with a bag lining, I know that I have to leave two of the seams open to turn the lining out. I clip my curves and corners without even thinking about it. That's just the result of experience and the cumulative effect of trying and studying a whole bunch of different techniques. There's rarely such a thing as the 'best' way to do something, and you should be suspicious of anyone who tells you there is, but there are better and worse ways, and ways that are better and worse for you personally (often coming down to 'do you like or not like hand-finishing'). Building up that internal library of techniques you like takes a while, but it will eventually free you from the tyrrany of instructions forever.
(though I do also keep an external library around, in the form of this book, Vogue Sewing 1984. It's an incredibly dated, snobby, 80s-tastic tome, but sometimes you need something snobby to tell you a good way to apply seam binding. Just ignore the part where it gives you a two page spreadsheet (!) to determine what styles are 'suitable' for your body)
The thing about knowing your methods is that your methods will condition your supplies and equipment. I really advise people not to buy too many gadgets until they're at the stage where they know exactly how they like to do things without looking at instructions. I get a tonne of use out of my automatic buttonhole foot (which I finally fixed! After a long time!), because I make a fucktonne of buttonholes and that's the way I like to do it. But if you're not a button-lover, that might not be a wise purchase. A beginner basically only needs a machine, scissors, an iron, and somewhere to put the iron.
But methods are always methods of doing something, right? And that's the main issue here. The key to the whole programme. Because unless you have a clear sense of what you're trying to do, you can't start doing any of it.
Goals
I left this for last because it's the most important, but also the hardest to give specific recommendations about. Because your goals are your own. I can give you examples of how I think about my goals, but my goals will never be yours.
But this is really the difference-maker. This is what turns sewing from a 'thing you do occasionally' to a practice. You have to know why you're doing what you're doing. So, I'll give you some examples of my goals, and how they've influenced my practice.
I want 80-90% of my total wardrobe (with the exception of undergarments) to be made by me
I want to wear well-fitting tailored traditional menswear on my non-traditionally-menswear-shaped body.
I want as much of the fabric I use as possible to not be purchased new
I want to continue to improve my skills (especially drafting)
I do not want to make or wear anything stretchy
Anything I wear regularly as a base layer needs to be machine washable, but not machine dryable, since I hang all my clothes to dry
I sew for myself first, and only occasionally for others (and only others who I like and who I think will actually wear what I make them)
I want to be spontaneous with my projects
These goals condition everything else. For instance, I know there's no point in my ever acquiring stretch fabric or tools to manipulate stretch fabric (eg. ball-point needles), because I never want to make anything that stretches. I know that I want to pre-wash most of my fabric but not pre-dry it (always pre-treat your fabric in the manner you intend to treat it once it's assembled. For something that goes in the wash, run it through the wash first. For something that goes in the dryer, run it through the dryer first. Let it shrink and warp before you cut it, not after). Because I'm sewing for myself only, I should never acquire fabric that I wouldn't personally wear, even if it's free. Since I'm sewing a daily wardrobe, rather than costumes or one-off specialty garments, I know I need to consider how each new garment fits into the whole. However, I still want to be spontaneous, and choose each new project one at a time, rather than planning whole wardrobes in advance. I also know that I personally hate having more than one 'active' project at a time, so I don't ever cut something new until I'm finished the previous thing. But I know tonnes of sewists who do absolutely none of the things I just mentioned, because they have different goals.
Now, I've been sewing nearly all my own clothes for about 15 years at this point, so I'm already extremely familiar with what I like and don't like. And I also know why I bother sewing my own stuff in the first place - because the styles I want to wear are simply not available for purchase. Those are two things that everyone who wants to sew needs to figure out. If you've never thought this through before, this video is a pretty good primer. But if you're just starting out, you probably won't be able to be quite as specific as I am just yet. After all, it was through sewing things that can't easily be bough that I learned how much I liked them. The best advice I can give is to start with what you know you like, and what you think you can achieve at your current skill level, and then slowly push the boundaries of both.
One thing that I found quite useful at the start was iterating on patterns that worked well. If I made something and liked it, I would always make another one in a different fabric, with maybe a slight variation to really dial in whatever I liked about it. It's generally good practice to trace your patterns on to tracing paper, rather than cutting them, so that you can make alterations without ruining the pattern. The process of dialing in fit takes time and patience. Eventually, you're going to want to get really good at it and then make your own blocks, but I wouldn't jump into block-making until you have a grip on the basics of fitting. Get a few good garments that you like under your belt first. (and then, when you're ready, watch this video for further instructions. The method she describes is basically my standard practice). It sounds like you've got patterns already, so you may as well learn everything you can from them. (by the way, by starting with patterns you're already doing better than many - a lot of people try to jump in by following youtube tutorials, which I would not recommend. Just make sure the patterns aren't AI, since AI patterns don't typically work). You bought the patterns you bought for a reason, right? Doing mock-ups before you cut into your nice fabric is also good practice, especially when you're learning the ropes. It'll give you a dry-run through the steps, show you (roughly) how the finished garment will look, and let you know if you made any mistakes in your measuring or using the size chart. I know mock-ups are boring, but they really do help at the start. Otherwise, you're setting yourself up to make expensive mistakes.
But in general, you're going to make some mistakes. That's inevitable. And though mistakes are not the only way to learn, they are a good teacher. Have fun, get messy, save your scraps, and make something cool.
As another sewist who's been doing this literally all my life, I have a few thoughts.
Supplies - This is right on. You need to have an assortment of fabric, thread, interfacing, linings, buttons & zippers all handy for when you need them. I would add that you should also have extra sewing machine needles. These need to be swapped out more frequently than you would guess and replacing them regularly will help your machine function better.
Tools - PREACH THE GOSPEL OF THE IRON! For real, keeping your ironing board & iron out is an important factor in sewing regularly. Other thoughts:
While you can get by with a single pair of proper fabric shears, I find it's also useful to have a pair of smaller pointed scissors either 5" embroidery scissors or traditional thread snips. These are good for clipping corners and trimming threads.
For your clear ruler, I strongly recommend a transparent quilters ruler. It makes it so easy to adjust patterns with precise measurements.
It's less essential, but I also really like the Clover hot ruler for hemming, you can iron right over it.
If you need to retrace anything, gift wrapping paper works as well as proper butcher paper.
Methods - I strongly recommend that beginners start with some of the indie pattern makers who have extensive detailed instructions, or video/blog sew-alongs. They do a much better job of teaching advanced techniques (plackets, collars, back yoke) than the older traditional pattern companies. Use construction of a single garment to add to your mental library of techniques. Once you've done it the first time, it's easier the next time. With plackets I've even cut them out in waste fabric and done a practice placket before moving onto the actual garment.
Methods Pt 2 - Learning to make small adjustments to improve fit is really the meat of having a sewing "practice" rather than just being a sewist. You can change the angle and depth of darts, crop the length of trousers & shirts, or extend shirts to tunic or dress length. You can add pockets! Having made a lot of garments (both from patterns and drafted), I've learned that trousers nearly always fit me better with a 1/4"-1/2" adjustment in the crotch curve of the back pants piece. Note however that adjusting the sleeve cap and armscye is an ADVANCED level redraft, it's quite tricky. In the beginning it may be worth trying patterns with a dropped shoulder seam, or raglan sleeve if you think you might need shoulder adjustments.
Pro-censorship wattpad refugees drama is so funny to me because when I started using ao3 as a kid I was a devout mormon and I thought that reading anything even remotely pornagraphic was a sin and would ruin my life. So when I was 13 and found ao3 I went "oh awesome I found a fanfic website with a filtering system so I won't ever randomly stumble into porn. This is great! I was really worried about seeing something I didn't want to see on the other platforms." I didn't read any smut online until like three years later. If a mormon 13 year old can figure out 'don't like don't read' wattpad users can too cmon you guys i believe in you.
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