It was when tackling the steep curve down to Newcastle's Quayside that I first discovered Violets. Pretty in purple, and evoking memories of parma violet sweets, this beautiful cafe occupies a small section of the Side. (One of the most literal street names I've ever come across.) At first glance, you notice the wonderful exterior. Painted in the most delicate shade of lilac, a water-coloured sign hangs with the Tyne bridge in the distance; bunting is placed in the large window, enticing the discerning passerby to take a closer look.
Once inside, you are often greeted by Owner, Abbie Atkinson, a warm and generous character. As well as Violets, Abbie is Co-Owner of House of Tides (a Michelin-starred restaurant, no less) alongside her husband, Kenny Atkinson. Kenny, too, can be seen popping in every now and then. It is clear that the pairing are passionate about the success of the cafe: why have one roaring success when you can have two?
As expected, the menus are beautiful. Emblazoned with that same, water-coloured logo, there are three separate cards to peruse. Abbie's ever-changing daily bakes are displayed on cute shelves at the front of the cafe. On both of my visits (certainly, more to come!), I have been enticed by the fresh and citrusy lemon tarts. Other concoctions you might expect to find are brownies, blondies, and a variety of sponge cakes and tray bakes.
As well as tempting treats, there is a selection of light lunches and savoury bakes. For me, I cannot recommend highly enough the cheese scones. Freshly baked, and with a quintessential crumbly texture, these are served with a gorgeously sweet caramelised onion chutney, and lashings of butter. So. Good.
The cafe itself has a relaxed, serene atmosphere, despite its popularity. Service is efficient, and always with a smile; tables are well-dispersed and plentiful, and the decor is absolutely to-die-for. The only downside, for me, is the opening hours. Closing at 3:30pm, there has been many a time when I have strolled past only to find that Violets is closed. It was only upon contacting the cafe via Instagram that I learned of the rather short opening times. Abbie does, however, have plans to extend opening hours, so do watch this space.
Violets is already proving to be a firm favourite amongst locals and visitors alike. Unsurprising perhaps, thanks to its prime location. Why not pop in for a treat or two?
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A friendship decider; a conversation starter; a nerve soother. It starts with that universal sound of water boiling, bubbles clashing against the sides of the kettle, eventually escaping as steam. Then, there's the joyous outpouring of water from the kettle to the cup (or the teapot, if you so wish.) A dash or so of milk. And, finally, the process of colour-change; from clear to opaque.
As a nation, we love our tea. According to tea.co.uk we Brits drink 60.2 billion cups of tea a year. Daily, the number of cups is 165 million. In my household, the bottom of the cup is barely visible when the next cup appears, as if by magic. (Thanks, Mother.)
For Lu Ann Pannunzio, Author of The Cup of Life blog, there is a certain joy attached to the ritual of preparing a cup. "I always love listening to the kettle sing," she tells me, adding, "I absolutely love watching tea leaves dance in the water, unfurling before my eyes."
This is a sentiment reflected, too, by Patrick Quilliam, Co-Founder of Quilliam Brothers Teahouse. As a child, Patrick became accustomed to his parents' ritual of drinking a cup of tea in the morning. "I remember as a child wanting to drink a cup, not because I liked the taste of it, but because I wanted to emulate my parents," he explains. "Once I started drinking tea, the inclusive ritual [of preparing it] became an appeal as well."
"I ABSOLUTELY LOVE WATCHING TEA LEAVES DANCE IN THE WATER, UNFURLING BEFORE MY EYESâŚ"
To many, tea is a social tool - a gatherer at a time when it is becoming increasingly difficult to gather. Sometimes, this is as simple as a quick cup at the kitchen table with family; otherwise, it might be a pot (or two) over a catch-up with friends. "At Quilliam Brothers, we see tea as a lubricant to ideas, conversation and relaxation," agrees Patrick. Â
Far from just a fancy cup of water, it is widely acknowledged that tea can calm the mind. According to researchers at University College London, there is scientific evidence indicating that black tea has an affect on stress hormone levels in the body.
"Tea allows me to take a breather, to be more aware, and to enjoy life sip by sip," notes Lu Ann. For me, personally, this is something that resonates deeply. There is nothing quite like stopping what you are doing, taking a quiet moment, and allowing yourself to escape your current situation.
"AT QUILLIAM BROTHERS, WE SEE TEA AS A LUBRICANT TO IDEAS, CONVERSATION AND RELAXATIONâŚ"
For Jules Quinn, Managing Director of The *TeaShed, a cuppa is a quintessential part of her day - a way to keep going "until I feel empty, then I top up and I'm good to again." It is little surprise then that the daily drinking figures in Britain are so high. After all, the average full-timer is chained to their desk for a miserable 42.7 hours per week.
"A cup of tea doesn't just represent a moment of hydration," enthuses Patrick. "It is a mindful experience that you can repeat throughout your day to keep you calm, to keep you going, and to be social with."
Walk into any supermarket, and you are likely to be met with a vast array of different teas. From relaxing teas, to soothing ones, and ones to help you on your way to a restful night's sleep, the market has never been quite so saturated. In fact, the UK Tea & Infusions Association estimates that there are about 1500 different varie-teas. (See what I did there?!).
Whether your choice is black or oolong; loose or bagged, there is one thing you can always count on, a point that is summed up perfectly by Jules: "Tea solves everything."
I wanted to write a little note to say how much I appreciate you. At least someone does. I'm sure, of course, there are other people like me, but sometimes I feel like there aren't. Thousands of shoes trample upon your floors, and probably just as many bottoms squash your seats. I must admit that you do look a little haggard sometimes. Your advertisement posters aren't quite up to scratch; your retro wallpaper peels off, unwanted, on the walls.
I like the way you ignore the frustrated sighs, and angry cries, of impatient passengers though. It does make me chuckle. You chug along quite merrily at your own pace, squeaking every now and again as your wheels take the brunt of a sharp turn. You remind me of a place far away from where you frequent. You remind me of Tyne and Wear. Of our wonderful, canary yellow Metro with its facing seats and grubby appearance. You do your job just fine. Who cares if you aren't quite as high tech as the Victoria line or as shiny as the Jubilee?
I LIKE THE WAY YOU IGNORE THE FRUSTRATED SIGHS, AND ANGRY CRIES, OF IMPATIENT PASSENGERS THOUGH. IT DOES MAKE ME CHUCKLE.
I first became acquainted with you shortly after my big move to the Capital. I lived in Southwark but would often take the short walk along The Cut to Waterloo to avoid the rush hour madness of your silver companion. I never did fancy being squashed in like a sardine. Conveniently, you were always less of a squeeze and more of a novelty. My journey to university during first year is filled with fond memories of hop, skip and jumping across the gap at Waterloo, and into a warm, plush seat.
You see, that's why I love you so much, Bakerloo. You're full of niceties. You're always ever so polite. You announce my arrival softly. And, whether it's Regent's Park or Charing Cross, you're full of useful tips. Not everyone knows to catch a bus to the zoo but, lo and behold, you kindly inform our stricken tourists. I sometimes wish the Northern line could take a leaf out of your book. So harsh, that one, especially once you get to Balham.
YOU SEE, THAT'S WHY I LOVE YOU SO MUCH, BAKERLOO. YOU'RE FULL OF NICETIES. YOU'RE ALWAYS EVER SO POLITE. YOU ANNOUNCE MY ARRIVAL SOFTLY.
But they could never be quite like you. Not the Northern, Central, Jubilee or even that fancy schmancy new Emirates Airline. You'll always hold a special place in my heart, Bakerloo. Your walls may be forgotten about, and your concourses may not be all that, but you always do make me smile.
June of this year sees the opening of âReturn of the Rudeboyâ at Somerset House - an immersive experience, delving into the world of the twenty first century rudie. Curators, Dean Chalkley and Harris Elliott have built up an extensive body of work, photographing over 60 sharply dressed individuals. Each of the subjects has provided their own playlist, which has been combined with both the curatorsâ and collaboratorsâ selection to act as a sonic backdrop to the visuals.
âI wanted to put on a rudeboy exhibition back in 2012 to coincide with the 50th anniversary of Jamaican independence,â creative director, Harris says.
Both Harris and Dean had been quietly observing the emergence of rudeboy style in London, before coming to the conclusion that an exhibiton would be a splendid way of working together.
âAs the project unfolded, it became apparent that this was going to
be a significant body of work, and it needed to be presented in an exhibition,â explains photographer and film maker, Dean. The pair approached Somerset House and were offered a space on the spot.
âRudeboy style has never before been given a platform like this; a portrayal of life,â argues Harris. Although the exhibition will provide insight into the past heritage of rudeboy style and culture, the main focus is the refinement, and reclamation of the term.
âThe rudeboy has taken many twists and turns over the years,â Dean reflects. âThe term has a variety of connotations, depending on who you speak to about it.â
The rudeboy originated in â50s Jamaica, with associations of adolescent crime. Dick Hebdige, author of âSubculture: The Meaning of Style,â describes the early rudeboy as a âlone delinquent.â
Singer and self-proclaimed rudie, Neville Staple explains in his book, âOriginal Rudeboy: From Borstal to The Specials,â that the culture of Jamaica resulted in him suffering unprecedented violence at the hands of his father - an experience that formed the backbone of Nevilleâs unruly days as a youngster. Neville remembers, upon arriving as an immigrant in Britain: âyou had to look confident and in control to survive as a young black man in the â60s and â70s.â
Part of this confidence was the attire associated with rudeboy style. âThere are many sartorial traits that can be observed as a connection to the past,â Dean notes. âHats are a staple in the wardrobe of a rudie,â Harris adds. âAs are severely cropped and tapered trousers.â
The sartorial choices of the rudeboy are, of course, deeply personal however can be recognised via an acute attention to detail. Neville writes that the original rude boys ânever looked shabby in public - even if it meant burgling 50 homesâ to afford such extravagances.
"RUDE BOYS NEVER LOOKED SHABBY IN PUBLIC - EVEN IF IT MEANT BURGLING 50 HOMES TO AFFORD SUCH EXTRAVAGANCES."
The influx of Jamaican immigrants in the â60s exposed British culture to that of the rude boys, resulting in an amalgamation of style choices. English skinheads, with their Ben Sherman shirts, and highly polished Dr. Martens began to overlay the clean-cut appearance of the delinquents.
The anger of the white youngsters resonated with that of the Jamaican criminals. Neville recalls: âWe understood where that anger was coming from. After all, if white kidsâ lives were shit, ours were doubly shit.â
With unemployment rising, the factories closing and hope slowly diminishing, the rudeboys were united by a mutual understanding
of circumstance and, later, the joy of attending sound systems in the inner cities.
Dean looks back upon his childhood in the â80s when the two-tone ska movement was rife. For âReturn of the Rudeboyâ he âstarted to dig deeper and investigate the essence of what it meant to be rude.â Music, according to Dean, played a vital part in the life of the rudie, âfrom Prince Buster to Spoek Mathambo, and all manner of sonic stimulation in between.â
Nowadays, the rudeboy is associated less with petty offences, and moreso with a swagger that is unmatched. âOur twenty first century rudeboy has shaken off the criminal connotations in favour of a more creative path,â Dean continues. âWhat we have here is a group of strong-minded people that have the ability to convey their attitude through the ways in which they present themselves.â
âOUR TWENTY FIRST CENTURY RUDEBOY HAS SHAKEN OFF THE CRIMINAL CONNOTATIONS IN FAVOUR OF A MORE CREATIVE PATH.â
The twenty first century rudeboy is diverse and far ranging, so how can (s)he be summarized? âBeing rude is a way of life,â concludes Harris. âItâs a statement of intent.â
LCFâs Management and Science students present their ideas at the BA15 exhibition
Image credit: Charles Harrop-Griffiths.
A selection of graduating Management and Science students discussed their ideas and ventures on Wednesday, as part of LCFâs BA15 exhibition schedule.
The students spoke about a range of topics, from business models and working in fashion to social media and dealing with stress. The audience was then treated to a short fashion film displaying the wealth of talent on offer at the BA15 catwalk show.
First on the line-up of speakers was MSc International Fashion Management student, Crista Repo. Clear and professional, Crista drew upon her own experiences to challenge the âtraditional, high cost business model.âÂ
After attempting to start her own menswear label, Crista realised that there was âan obvious communication issue between brands and consumers,â with designers often focusing on âpleasing their buyers, not their consumers.â Crista noted that, according to Forbes, 90% of fashion start-ups fail. With confidence and elegance, Crista left the audience with a much greater understanding of traditional business models within fashion, and the thirst to research alternative routes into design.Â
Bursting onto the scene, next, was BA Fashion Marketing student, Charlotte Lee. A bundle of joy, Charlotte used her sense of humour, to full effect, in order to engage the audience in her discussion around social media. Although aware of its negative connotations, Charlotte managed to persuade us, ultimately, of the importance of social media. âSocial media breaks down barriers,â she noted, adding that it âconnects people with similar opinions.â Stopping only to check her Twitter and (of course) to take an audience selfie, Charlotte left us with a more positive look at social media, and its ability to spread an honest review of global matters.
Although not quite as bold as her predecessors, my personal favourite speaker of the night was BA Fashion Design and Realisation (now BA Fashion Management) student, Sarah Adekoya. Quietly inspirational, Sarah talked about a friend of hers who had struggled with stress and anxiety throughout her degree, taking us on a tentative journey towards recovery. It soon became apparent that Sarah was in fact telling her own story, ending in the biggest applause of the night â and deservedly so.
For me, it was an absolute pleasure to see not only how varied each of the speakers was in their approach to presenting, but also the confidence with which they spoke about their ideas. Their journey, it seems, is just beginningâŚ
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Respirator Carrier Handbag; photograph courtesy of Š IWM.
It's an unusually sunny afternoon, perhaps signalling the first steps towards Spring, and I'm on the bus listening intently to a group of elderly women reminiscing about days past. It comes as no surprise when the bell is pressed, and the women alight at the same stop as me: London's Imperial War Museum.
We're all here to visit Fashion on the Ration - a major new exhibition exploring how fashion survived, and even flourished, during wartime. "We hope that visitors to Fashion on the Ration will see how the war impacted upon so many aspects of British peoples' day to day lives on the home front," curator, Laura Clouting, tells Wonderment. "We get a real sense of the privations and limitations of home front life in the exhibition, but also how that austerity inspired creativity and innovation too."Â
The exhibition begins with a look on the introduction of uniform in every day life, weaving through the need for practicality in fashion and, later, exploring the relationship between rationing and creativity. The wearing of uniform was one of the most noticeable changes during wartime; uniforms meant that mens', womens' and childrens' roles within the war effort could easily be identified.
On display is a uniform from the Women's Land Army, with the original instructions on how to wear it. The need for practicality and function meant that it began to be more acceptable for women to wear trousers throughout the 1940s.  "My mother would roll up the legs of her trousersâŚ" I overhear the lady next to me telling her companion. I chuckle to myself as I read of how this was strictly forbidden, but allowed for tanning of the legs in the warmer months.
A sense of function and practicality was an essential part of life during the war, and this is demonstrated perfectly in the exhibition: from luminous accessories that made it easier for women to be seen by car drivers during blackouts, to gas-mask handbags. Solutions were stylish and always, it seems, in good humour.
For me, one of the most fascinating aspects of Fashion on the Ration is the opportunity to learn about the rationing of clothing. "Wartime shopping required resilience, patience and painful calculations," Laura notes. "People had to 'buy to last', or make clothes from existing or unusual materials available off-ration."
Coupons allowed for roughly one outfit per year, and so they had to be durable. In an audio excerpt - arguably my favourite aspect of the exhibition - one lady remembers a particularly luxurious dress made out of parachute silk; another remembers her swagger coat, which lasted for years! Women were encouraged to treasure their clothes, and taught to darn in order to care for them. Instructional leaflets claimed that 'a neat darn is a real badge of honour.'
The exhibition closes with a thought-provoking film analysing the legacy of fashion during the Second World War. 'We're in a period that feels closely linked to wartime,' notes Saville Row's Patrick Grant. I ask Laura whether she agrees with Patrick's observation: "Many people are now looking back at wartime to understand how people then made the most of the resources available to them, and taking inspiration from that," she enthuses.
The key difference however is that, for us, it is a choice rather than a vital, day-to-day necessity. "It is difficult to appreciate the lack of choice available to people in wartime compared to that available to us now," Laura reasons. It is worth noting, though, that many are staying true to the legacy of our grandmothers: we're making and mending; we're thinking more about robust materials, and moving towards a wardrobe of timeless staples.
It has been 70 years since the end of the Second World War but visiting the exhibition, and overhearing some of the memories of others, has kept the very essence of fashion on the ration alive. "The impact of war endures in so many ways beyond the cessation of fighting itselfâŚ" Laura concludes.
Fashion on the Ration runs until 31 August 2015 at the Imperial War Museum in London. To find out more, visit iwm.org.uk. Â
How to thrive⌠Industry experts talk Positive Psychology
The second of LCFâs Better Lives seminars on Positive Psychology in Fashion saw Professor Helen Storey MBE and Dr. Linda Papadopoulos discussing the ways in which they, as professionals, are thriving within their respective industries.
After apologising for âbeing a bit Yorkshireâ and keeping her coat on, Helen Storey went into detail about the success of her pioneering Catalytic Clothing project, before giving the audience an exclusive look at her future work.
Often the issues surrounding climate change are a challenge: how do we make people care? Helen argues that we need to âcapture and share the human ingenuity it takes to combat climate change.â After vividly mapping out the immense social response to the Catalytic Clothing project, it appears that Helen is achieving just that.
Achieving (and sometimes non-achieving) was a profound interest of yesterday eveningâs second speaker, Dr. Linda Papadopoulos. Lindaâs cousin has vitiligo, a condition that affects the pigmentation of the skin, which altered her ability to thrive and achieve. âShe became withdrawn; she dropped out of gymnastics,â Linda explained.
Interviewed by MSc Applied Psychology in Fashion student Elena Mansilla, Linda spoke passionately about the pressures placed upon women to have it all.
âYour value lies in your youth and beauty,â Linda problematised, before explaining how the likes of Instagram and Facebook have brought new meaning to the concept of body image: âWeâre defining our identity based on people who donât know us, who donât care.â
For Linda and Helen, the means to thriving is all about regaining control over your own mind and body. When questioned by one audience member about our tendency to be our own worst enemy, Linda noted:
âDefining a problem is fine but defining a solution is better.â
Helen added: âWithout obstruction, there is no growth.â
After picking up a signed copy of Lindaâs new book, and allowing the topics touched upon in the seminar to sink in, I left feeling empowered and refreshed. Whatâs to say that every single person in the audience couldnât thrive?
Miriam Akhtar and Orsola de Castro Kick Off LCFâs Better Lives Series 2015
In the first of four seminars curated by students from LCFâs pioneeringMA Psychology for Fashion Professionals and MSc Applied Psychology in Fashion courses, positive psychologist Miriam Akhtar and designer Orsola de Castro, discussed the concept of âflourishingâ in fashion and wellbeing.
The seminar began with Miriam outlining the concepts of positive psychology and flourishing, and what these entail. Whilst traditional clinical, psychology often focuses on the presence of illness, positive psychology looks at the presence of wellbeing.
An engaging speaker, Miriam encouraged audience members to participate in a series of live demonstrations intended to put key ideas of positive psychology into practice. Talking to Bee Patel, an Organisational Psychologist who was sat to my left, about a positive memory made me feel uplifted. Bee reciprocated by telling me about her passion for dance.
Miriam ended the first half of the talk with one question: Can fashion make us happy?
Orsola, our second speaker, believes soâŚ
âMy relationship with the fashion industry is entirely emotive,â she began.
For Orsola, it all started with a jumper riddled with holes and stains. Rather than throw it out, she invested both her time and care into crocheting around each of the holes.
âThrough a creative process, I brought [the jumper] back to life,â she argued.
This act of doing good can be seen as an act of what Miriam referred to as âeudaimonic wellbeingâ, that is to say, the flourishing of a human being.
The interaction between Miriam and Orsola as the seminar progressed was one of the highlights for me. At first, Miriam joked that fashion wasnât for her: âIâm five foot one and pear-shapedâ. However, after listening to how Orsola invests emotionally in clothes that are âthe fruit of inventiveness and loveâ Miriam remarked that Orsola was doing âthe Post Traumatic Growth of fashion!â.
Orsola wants the world to rediscover the value of our clothing, and this includes questioning who made it. This act of slowing down and thinking about your purchases brings meaning to the fashion industry, creating a dialogue between the consumer and what they are buying.
Orsola concluded: âIf I didnât spend inordinate amounts of time thinking about my clothes, I wouldnât be in this industry.â
Weâll be going all out (itâs Christmas, why on earth not?) at the NORDIC YULEFEST, which just so happens to be right on our doorstep. Weâll be feasting on four courses of festive grub, all the while sharing pleasantries with Santa and nestling amongst the silver birch trees. Which, by the way, have edible marzipan leaves. Yep. Edible leaves.
 DRINK
Warning: do not enter this event if youâre against wearing various Christmas-themed paraphernalia. Now weâve got that cleared up⌠Weâll be dancing on down to a blend of disco, house and general club classics and grabbing something Christmassy at GROTTO OUTRE. As for drinks, weâll have wine. Always wine.
 VISIT
Weâre heading straight to WINTERVILLE and its Spiegeltent to experience all things alternative on our weekend Christmas rampage. First stop: Indeedy Music Bingo, which is EXACTLY what you think it is. Yep, weâre crossing off Christmas classics on our bingo cards. Throw in a Ferris Wheel, ice rink and general fairground fun and youâre pretty much guaranteed to feel Christmassy. We certainly will be.
 SHOP
Weâre popping our TWP mittens and pom pom hats on, and braving the chill this weekend, at the MORE LONDON CHRISTMAS MARKET. With the Tower of London as a welcoming backdrop, weâll be rummaging the stalls for all things Christmassy from cheese to chutney. Cute!
For us, Antonella's use of traditional sketching methods has cemented her place as a true WHITEPEPPER girl. It seems that young artists, such as Antonella, are rediscovering their personal love of drawing by hand. Hailed by i-D as an antithesis to a world increasingly dominated by computers and machinery, hand-drawn illustrations allow artists to physically present their thoughts and daydreams on paper - something our design team can resonate with when creating in-house prints for our collections!
You can see more of Antonella's work on her Instagram page @antonellaheng
We're chuffed that one of our international followers felt inspired enough to dig out the stationary. We'd love to see your artwork inspired by THE WHITEPEPPER; Instagram or Tweet us your latest drawings, and donât forget to tag us!
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Now that weâre feeling a little bit fancy, itâs time to get our glad rags on! Weâll be heading off to LOOKING GLASS COCKTAIL CLUB in Shoreditch, wearing something sparkly from the new Party Collection. Weâll start off in the front bar, supping on a tipple in a teacup before heading (literally, through the looking glass) into the main area for a Tweedledee & Tweedledum. Yes, itâs actually called that. Our inner child is clapping with delight.
 VISIT
THE BRICK LANE GALLERY'SÂ latest exhibition brings together both local and international artists, all with the premise of exploring the limitless possibilities of creativity. Weâll be keeping our eyes peeled for Marc Stewartâs âBlighty Popâ series. An amalgamation of old postcards, newspaper cuttings and even ciggie packets, these are delightfully colourful works inspired by good olâ British Pop Art.
 SHOP
If itâs good enough for Miquita Oliver⌠Apparently the super stylish presenter is a regular here and even picked up a vintage Chanel bag once. If youâre looking for hidden gems, the best advice is to pop in early; those urban East London types flock here on a weekend. As for us, weâll be rifling through the vinyl, CDs and books. A bit like Dalston itself, the KINGSLAND ROAD OXFAM is a cultural mish mash of seemingly random, but often amazing, stuff. Bring a friend and a flask, and spend an hour here. A splendid use of time.
Our Creative Director is obsessed with this little cutie. Step forward Daisy Davidson: Creative at Topshop, Studio Assistant at Ashley Williams, occasional model and full-time Harry Styles fangirl. We caught up with Daisy on the bus to a photo shoot â sheâs always doing something, that girlâŚ
Hey Daisy, tell us a little bit about yourselfâŚ
Youâve been popping up all over the place in terms of modelling â what has been your favourite shoot so far?
My favourite modelling work was for a show rather than a shoot. I walked for Meadham Kirchoff at London Fashion Week; it had such a good, positive feeling about it. Everyone was so excited about taking part, and I felt very cared for. The clothes were beautiful, of course. Oh, and the sandwich selection was top notch!
Whatâs your fave thing about modelling?
Well, I do enjoy the free grub! I also love having my make-up done, and learning about the different products and potions. I donât wear make-up usually, so itâs interesting to see what I look like with all of this stuff on my face!
Where can we find you on a weekend?
Iâve been working weekends for the past year, so Iâve forgotten how they operate! At the moment, youâll find me at my local Oxfam in Putney. Itâs such a laugh, and I love the mix of volunteers we get. If not there, youâll find me in China Town at China Market â the best place for all of your plastic, Japanese-y goodness, and photo-booth requirements. I love eating hummus at Hummus Bros, although none of my friends like it, so itâs often a one-girl-job. And Pizza Hut is a must for delectable cookie dough. I always go to the one in Kingston, which means I get to visit the wonderful Bentalls shopping centre, too.
We love your style â let us into the best places to shop in LondonâŚ
I would totally recommend Oxfam in Putney. We get such good pieces in there, as everyone in the surrounding area is pretty well off; they canât be bothered to eBay it, so they give it to us instead! This week, for example, weâve had two Fendi tops and a brand spanking new D&G coat. As you do. Iâm not much of a shopper (too much of a cheapskateâŚ) but Iâd always say TK Maxx and Bang Bang Clothing Exchange on Berwick Street in Soho.
Which is your favourite TWP piece and why?
It would have to be the Egg Print Twin Set. I love a Twin Set; itâs the lazy girlâs way of coming up with a very quick outfit. Anything 60s looking is also a winner. I have my eye on the Ivory Suit Twin Set, too.
Who or what do you fangirl over?
Harry frigging Styles â I mean, do I even need to explain?! Oh, and a close second would be Benedict Cumberbatch (mostly when heâs playing Sherlock.) Iâm a manga nerd, so these go hand in handâŚ
Lastly, how would you describe your style?
Iâd say 80s Chanel mixed with Japanese, Harajuku street style circa early noughties. I sometimes wear massive heels, but only if Iâve taken a few painkillers â I get grumpy in them otherwise! I love Japanese-inspired stuff and always have. When I was younger I would dress as a Gothic Lolita, and I donât think thatâs ever left me. Hence having short black hair that can be transformed into a huge Emo fringe if the occasion ever arises. Like thrashing around to Panic! At The Disco, for example.
Like Tapas? Good; so do we. Which is why weâre joining Papiâs Pickles for their Sri Lankan Short Eats extravaganza at Well Street Kitchen on Saturday. Settle down to a mammoth five courses inspired by traditional South Indian and Sri Lankan family recipes. Weâre actually drooling at the thoughtâŚ
DRINK
With a suitably full belly, hop on over to Dalston Junction where you can find the rather splendid Farrâs School of Dancing. Named after the dance school that previously resided there, this bar and boozer is all ripped wallpaper and nostalgic fixtures. Sup on one of their locally brewed and sourced craft beers. Aaaaand relax.Â
VISIT
If youâre around Hackney this weekend, be sure to head over to The Residence Gallery on Victoria Park Road. This progressive space looks to promote cultural change through fine art. Weâre off to Darren Coffieldâs Psycho exhibition. Coffield has rearranged the features of the face to jaunting effect. One for closet philosophers.
SHOP
Peruse genres as far reaching as Minimal Wave and Industrial at Kristina Records on Stoke Newington Road. Hailed by the locals as the Queen of vinyl, Kristina specialise in hidden gems and second hand treasures. You can also bring along your own stash for sale or exchange â if you can bear to part with them, that is.
LCFâs Karinna Nobbs joins expert panel discussion at Social Media Week
LCFâs Senior Lecturer in Fashion Branding and Retail Strategy, Karinna Nobbs, hosted two spectacular talks last week as part of Social Media Week: Pinterest vs. Instagram, and Digital Fashion Content and Gender. Students were encouraged to engage with an expert panel over a two-hour period at the RHS.
In the first talk, Karinna was joined by Creative Director of Ada + Nik, Nik Thakkar, Social Media Editor at Mr. Porter, Lauren Luxenberg, Marketing and PR Manager at Links of London, Lisa Henderson, Managing Director of Protein, Jo Jackson and Co-Founder of Olapic, Jose de Cabo.
So how do Pinterest and Instagram differ? âInstagram has a different culture,â Jo noted. The panel agreed that Pinterest is less focused on producing original content, and more so on organising and discovering things. âInstagram has made us all amazing photographers,â Jose said. When one audience member asked what the panel would miss about Pinterest if it were taken away, Jo revealed that her wedding lists would be one of them.
Jo was interested in seeing whether the introduction of sponsored posts on Instagram would have a detrimental effect on its users. When throwing the idea out to the floor, half of audience members indicated that they would stop using the platform because of this. It certainly appears as though obvious advertising is a turn-off: âUsing too many hashtags seems desperate,â Jo said. Lauren noted that if Mr. Porterâs Instagram only promoted Mr. Porter it would be âreally boring.â
How does the use of social media differ with regards to gender however? After a quick line-up change â Lauren was joined by Fashion Photographer, Jonathan Daniel Pryce, Blogger, Navaz Batliwalla (AKA Disneyrollergirl) and Reader in Social and Cultural Studies, Dr. Agnes Rocamora â Karinna was ready to pose this question. Jonathan argued that, with men, it is more of a âreal-timeâ documentation of their everyday lives whereas, with women, it is about being in a fantasy world. This linked in to a discussion on the construction of gender, through behaviour, in a photograph: a man in a coffee shop looking pensive as opposed to a woman looking wistful in the sun.
The panel agreed that, thanks to social media, it is becoming less of a taboo for men to look at other men. âItâs becoming more acceptable for men to share selfies,â Lauren said. Agnes agreed, noting that Instagram âlegitimises that a man can follow another man.â
One of the most important lessons that could be taken away from the night is the importance of having an online presence. The industry guests were unanimous in their opinion when asked of its importance: âI donât know why youâre asking this question,â Jo deadpanned. Point taken.
Collage by Sasha Helim. Image credit: Pigeons & Peacocks.
The fashion world lost two important figures this year: Louise Wilson OBE and historian Anne Hollander. What, might you ask, does the loss of these monumental women have to do with research? The answer is that Wilson and Hollander both championed the art of investigating; studying; coming to new and profound conclusions. They both championed research.
Michael Power, who studied under the renowned Central Saint Martins tutor, recently told Dazed that âresearch has become relatively easy. You can just type in what youâre looking for and find it in an instant,â noting that the regurgitation of fashion imagery has evolved into âthis all-consuming beast.â
LCFâs MA History and Culture of Fashion student, Ellen McIntyre, believes in both. âIâm from a generation that has grown up using the internet, and Iâve never known academia without it,â she notes. âI know that it has been criticised for producing and circulating untruths but I think, as researchers and academics, we should always be challenging our sources.â
The internet can also open up access to rare texts that might not otherwise be found in its physical state. Professor Amy de la Haye explains: âThe internet is invaluable as a source of research. I find rare texts that save me going to specialist libraries, and access to museum collections and exhibitions is incredibly useful.â
De la Haye works alongside Professor Judith Clark as joint director of the Centre for Fashion Curation at LCF. Despite singing the praises of the internet, de la Haye believes that there is nothing quite like âseeing, discerning and/or handling the real thing.â As a dress curator and historian, de la Haye is familiar with handling garments that have survived many different stories, however that hasnât resulted in a wane in enthusiasm. âI am especially fascinated with clothes that have been worn as evidence of a life lived,â de la Haye enthuses.
McIntyre agrees: âThere is something glorious about handling a historical item, whether itâs a four-hundred year old book or a nineteenth century bustle dress,â she says. âIt appeals to all of your senses, especially if you donât know what it is; you feel the desire to understand it.â
She is quick to add, however, that an object doesnât have to be historical to be considered special. âIâve had the pleasure of rummaging through the Alexander McQueen archive, and handled items that may have only been a couple of years old,â she smiles, adding: âThereâs still something awe-inspiring about holding a garment that Lee made.â
Perhaps that sense of personal connection with physical entities remains after all?
I ask McIntyre whether she thinks the world wide web can move people in the same way. âThe internet is, undeniably, an incredibly useful tool for research,â she says. Images of not only McQueenâs garments, but also any other notable fashion figureâs work, are very familiar. âTo actually physically touch an item that you recognise â and that moved you â is like making a connection; itâs definitely an intimate experience.â
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âThe objective of the exhibition is to educate people about this hidden history,â CIADâs creative director, Teleica Kirkland, told the African Prints in Fashion blog, âto essentially highlight what these different cultures within Africa and the Diaspora have done with the remnants of colonialism and war; how they turned an influence brought to them through destruction into something beautiful and captivating.â
The exhibition opened with a bang at Craft Central, with dancers from the Caribbean performing alongside traditional musicians from Africa and Scotland. Featuring costumes from all walks of African life, from the Maasai people of Kenya and Tanzania to the French Caribbean and Jamaicans, Tartan: Its Journey is not only educational but also vivid in its aesthetic.
In Scotland, before the 1800s, tartan was associated with districts or areas depending on the unique use of natural dyes. As I navigated the exhibition, it became clear that the use of tartan (or a similar checked material known as âmadrasâ) by the African diaspora also included these subtle differentiations. The Shuka costume, which is worn by the Maasai in Kenya and Tanzania, used significantly higher proportions of the checked fabric than the Caribbean costumes for example.
A wonderfully researched description accompanies each costume, detailing its history and meaning. Members of the Scottish 42nd Regiment of Foot wore the Black Watch uniform; a dark blue (almost black) and green check characterizes the look, giving the regiment its âBlack Watchâ nickname. The Jamaican national costume, whilst following the same route from India as other parts of the Caribbean, uses a fabric known as âbandana,â from the Hindi word âbandhana,â meaning âto tie.â
Exhibition-goers, whilst delighting in the costumes on show, are also given the opportunity to fashion a piece of tartan into a traditional headwrap. Although appearing complicated, the look is relatively simple to replicate. Gallery assistant, Kate Alekseeva, was on hand to guide me through the steps. âThe headwrap is used for protection from the sun but also for fashion,â she tells me. As with the use of tartan, the style of headwrap differs from country to country. âThat was so fun!â another visitor exclaims, after unraveling themselves.
Although small, Tartan: Its Journey through the African Diaspora leaves a lasting impression; itâs bright and bundles of fun. The exhibition itself forms one part of a three-part project, a collaboration between the CIAD and the V&A. Now in its last week, the exhibition will conclude with a talk from Kirkland on Friday 29th August, giving visitors an opportunity to learn more and ask any questions they might have. Visitors can also get involved after the final showing of the exhibition, with a related documentary and performance scheduled for Friday 12th September at the V&A.
Tartan: Its Journey through the African Diaspora runs until Saturday 30th August at Craft Central: 33 â 35 St. Johnâs Square, London, EC1M 4DS. Entry is free and the exhibition is open daily from 10am â 6pm. The documentary and performance is scheduled for Friday 12thSeptember from 6:30pm â 9:30pm at the V&Aâs Learning Centre and is also free to attend.
Dazed editors discuss the evolution of fashion image making
Students were in for a treat yesterday when not one, but five editors from Dazed set out to discuss image making in fashion. The panel comprised of Editor, Isabella Burley, Fashion Director and LCF alumni Robbie Spencer, Fashion Editors, Emma Alix Wyman and Elizabeth Fraser-Bell, and Video Commissioning Editor, Jennifer Byrne.
Another key moment in the history of fashion image making was the launch of the âVisionariesâ series in November of last year, allowing moving image provocateurs to premiere their own original films alongside newly commissioned work. James Franco, who directed a surreal art film, launched the series.
âFor me, it isnât enough for a fashion film to exist solely as a beautiful image,â Jennifer argued. âAt Dazed, we try to conceptualize ideas and push the genre forward.â As a case in point, students were shown a candid interview with David Bailey â a film that really engaged the audience at the RHS.
The latter part of the evening was dedicated to opening up a discussion with students around image making and the industry in general. Questions were posted on Twitter using #AskDazedEditors and #InsideFashion and students were presented with a rare opportunity to network with the team. âCan you live off what you do?â asked one student. âIt takes a long time but if you work hard you will reap the rewards,â Robbie said. âWeâve all had double, sometimes triple jobs!â Elizabeth added.