Qué pereza me dan los blogs estéticos de hilado, con sus husos turcos, sus tintes locos, sus madejas perfectamente ordenadas con nombres poéticos hechas con lanas peculiares (y hay que especificar la variedad y cómo de agradable es hilarlo).
Igual soy yo, que me vale con entretenerme y sacar cosas adelante un poco de cualquier manera, igual es también que yo no compro lanas guays estupendamente preparadas y que vivo en un país donde esto es una excentricidad o un trabajo de arqueología experimental.
Las fotos no son para mostrar el proceso o el aprendizaje o para abrir diálogo. Son para enseñar lo bonito y el resultado. Incluso cuando claramente están a medias (tiñendo o con medio ovillo), son observar lo estético del proceso, no el proceso en sí.
Lo de los tintes me mata porque tienen que ser gradientes de colores locos. No puedes teñir una madeja entera de azul soso.
Me agotan. Mi lana está mal esquilada, la selecciono yo como puedo, la lavo en el río, casi toda es negra así que tampoco la puedo teñir fácilmente, la cardo viendo la tele, la hilo en los ratos muertos cuando no tengo la cabeza ocupada con otras cosas... Lo disfruto mucho y me gusta pero es una labor, no un placer visual. Lo que me gusta de esto no se puede ver en ninguna foto.
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This cross-stitch border was drawn from a 16th century embroidery manual, and its leaf pattern reminds us of the Spanish oak - also known as the pin oak, Latin name Quercus palustris. It makes a great border for any project, and could add a little plant-themed flair to any costume, whether that's your local Ren Faire, a LARP session, or a stage show!
Check it out on Etsy! And don't forget to enter RAINBOW for 40% off any embroidery patterns (including this one) until 30th June!
The heavily worn tunic of the Bernuthsfeld Man, patched out of 45 single pieces of cloth, 20 different fabrics in 9 different weaving patterns. 680–775 CE, Lower Saxony, Germany.
current state of the internet is a FUCKING EMBARASSMENT. was chatting with my grandma bout the history of crochet and knitting (and the comparative ages of those respective technologies) and i was like "oh YEAH and also that ancient greek fiber art we partly figured out from chemically testing the scoured bleached pigments of stolen statuary (tumblr knows what im talking about)—gimme 30 seconds to look up the name."
5 minutes and 3 search-engines later i am crying tears of blood screaming spitting blubbering in despair as my grandma attempts to digitally pat me consolingly on the back. the library of alexandria didn't burn it was "restructured" to "increase shareholder profits"
i am scouring the internet like the victorians scoured and destroyed all trace of joy and color from stolen relics for the LOST NAME OF THE ANCIENT PROCESS of textile-creation akin to knitting/crocheting/nålebinding that at least one academic/crafter used to recreate the leggings on this Glorious Motherfucker:
the google execs erased it. they bleached my bestie AGAIN from history...
Archer statue from the Temple of Aphaia (ca. 480 BC) next to a reconstruction of its original paint job:
The leggings and sleeves would have created using a method called SPRANG which predates knitting and is over 3,000 years old. What's even sexier is modern artisans managed to recreate the entire outfit using the original method!
Mmm-HMM, love me a shapely thigh in harlequin hosiery. Put👏men👏in👏clingy-ass👏clothing👏again👏👏👏
Unfortunately english sources are hard to find, partly because Google's a shithole, but also because this textile project comes from a German museum, in Germany, where people tend to speak (and publish) in German. That said, the original link is to a short-but-sweet article I would have had no problem finding in 30 seconds a mere few years ago. fortunately i have clever beautiful insane people following me, but alas not everyone has such luxury. thanks to everyone in the notes who shoved themselves down this rabbithole with me!
in conclusion let us take a moment to sincerely wish Google a very burn in hell🙏
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This is the second time I've seen a video of this technique and this explanation is so clear! It does use more fabric than English paper piecing (EPP) but you end up with a double sided hexagon so don't have to source fabric for the backing.
I'm doing EPP at the moment but I have a hole punch to make the papers and just use leaflets and junk mail, so it doesn't feel wasteful. I don't think it's difficult either- in the video she mentions it's not for beginners, but I don't have that much experience with hand sewing or EPP and I've been finding it pretty easy so YMMV
I saw this video yesterday and was seized with the need to try it out immediately. Lookit my cute lil' hexagon baby!!
Here is what the backside looks like. OP notes this takes more fabric than paper piecing, but that excess fabric makes it already triple-layered. Besides not needing backing fabric, I don't think you'd need batting for this quilt at all. It's already thick and soft just from folding all that fabric into a hexagon.
Hexagon quilt tutorial video by tiktok user camelscrafts. Method:
Each hexagon begins as a 6" circle. camelscrafts does this by creating a paper template using a compass. According to the video, a 6" circle will create a hexagon that is 2.5 inches tall.
These hexagons are hand-sewn. Thread the needle.
With the fabric right side facing, find the center of the circle by folding it in half right sides together, then folding it in half again (wrong sides are facing). The top of the triangle shape is the center of the fabric circle.
Make a small stitch into the center of the fabric. The wrong side is still facing.
Unfold the circle. There will be a small stitch in the center.
Now the hexagon is created by folding the circle into itself: Take the needle to one of the edges of the fabric (it doesn't matter which one). Pull the needle through and pull the thread tight. This will fold down the fabric and create an edge of the hexagon. Crease the fold with your finger.
This fold has two corners, one at the top and one at the bottom. Put the needle into one of the corners and pull the thread taut. This will create another fold.
Continue this going around the circle until all of it is folded down, creating the hexagon. camelscrafts notes that the last corner pulled in may be a little bit "wonky" (no precise point in the corner) if the corners were not done precisely. However, that corner is pulled into the back, so is not visible from the front.
The hexagon is now formed. Sew around the folds in the middle of the circle to hold the folds in place. Tie off and cut the thread.
Attach hexagons to each other along the sides. With right sides together, whip stitch the sides together.
Cuando empecé a hilar me enseñaron a mover la mano que lleva el huso, y es lo mismo que he visto en los tutoriales de youtube. Sin embargo, mi problema está en estirar y preparar la lana con la otra mano, pero eso es algo que nadie acaba de explicar, se da por sentado.
He pensado que a lo mejor no he preparado bien la lana (también está esquilada de aquella manera y la trabajo como viene), pero noto que la mano izquierda es torpe y débil. Preparar y estirar la lana requiere mucha coordinación y control de la fuerza y no estoy acostumbrada a hacerlo.
Total, que ayer se me ocurrió que a lo mejor puedo girar el huso con la mano izquierda y estirar la lana con la derecha.
He empezado a hilar en la calle a veces, lo que suele traerme a señoras de más de 70 años que hilaban de chicas y que vienen a decirme cosas (normalmente, que qué bien lo hago). Hace décadas que no hilan y ya no tienen las manos con la misma agilidad, así que nunca me acaban de enseñar cómo lo hacían ellas.
Hoy me ha parado una por la calle para corregirme la técnica según me vio ayer y me dijo, cuando le conté que lo que me cuesta es sacar la lana con la mano izquierda, que es que debería de parar para estirar la lana y prepararla y luego guiarla, que no hilas del tirón constantemente. Tiene sentido porque la fibra de la lana es bastante corta, a lo mejor puedes hilar sin parar con lino porque la fibra es más larga, no sé, no consigo lino ni para atrás.
Otra cosa que mencionó como de pasada es que tienes que aprender a hacerlo con las dos manos "como el bolillo", que sí lo haces con la mano izquierda así, pero claro que si te pasa alguna otra cosa, lo tienes que hacer con la otra mano. Como una obviedad grandísima, claro que hilas con la derecha o con la izquierda, y preparas la lana con las dos, algo que nadie me había dicho nunca antes.
---
When I learned spinning yarn and what I have seen overall in youtube tutorials is how to spin with the drop spindle hand. However, what I struggle with is drafting with the other hand. And nobody seems to show how to work on that, as if it is secondary.
Maybe I haven't prepared my wool right (I work from poorly sheared fleece), but I also notice that my left hand is clumsy and weak. Drafting requires a lot of coordination and strength control and I am just not used to it.
Just yesterday it occurred to me that maybe I can try to spin with my left hand and draft with my right hand.
I started spinning in the street sometimes, which gives me a lot of conversations with ladies that are over 70 years old who used to spin as kids, and they usually congratulate me on how well I do it. Unfortunately, they haven't spun in decades and their hands are not what they used to, so they cannot show me how they do it themselves.
One of them today told me that actually, you are supposed to stop spinning, prepare the wool for drafting and then kind of guide it with that hand. So it's not supposed to be a constant and continuous flow, which makes sense for wool because the fiber is quite short. Maybe you can draft from flax easily because it's way longer, I don't know, I don't have access to flax.
Anyways, she also mentioned that you have to learn to do it with both hands, "just like with lace". Sure, you will mainly do it with your dominant hand, but sometimes you just can't, so apparently it's so obvious that you just learn to do spinning and drafting with both hands that nobody had thought of telling me before.
Josefin Waltin has said this as well! See this blog post. It's definitely a good idea to learn to use both hands, because it prevents you from overworking one hand with the same motions for many hours. Maybe your old lady has had RSI or a hand injury and learned the hard way.
(I'll admit I haven't tried to learn spinning the other way around yet!)
Have you considered putting your wool on a distaff? It might make it a bit easier to control the fibre. I just watched this video showing a Spanish lady spinning from a distaff. Unfortunately the original Spanish description has been overdubbed with an awful English translation, but there are some pretty good shots of how she is drafting.
Alternatively, if the wool isn't very well-prepared, maybe some better prepared wool would help you get the hang of it?
Thanks for the references! I will check them to see how to improve.
The main problem with the wool is that I prepare it myself and I don't have the space or the knowledge to do it as well as it could be done.
On the one hand, the guy who comes shear our sheep is doing it in a "get the job done" way, and the job is to get the sheep's hair cut so some very good fiber gets poorly cut, which in turn makes it shorter or otherwise harder to work with.
On the other hand, I have to select the best parts on my own but I don't have a table to do so comfortably, so it's more an estimation on where those parts are. And once it's all in a bag, it mixes long and short fiber, good and bad.
I try to improve it when carding, selecting only the longest fibers, but it doesn't always work. I am soon moving to a bigger house, so I hope to have the space to select and organise my fleece better.
I do have a distaff and use it, yes (I actually have two slightly different). Btw, the bad dubbing in the video can be disabled. It's AI, if you click on the gear symbol on the right side corner of the video (below), you can change the "audio track". This works for any video where it happens automatically. I have noticed that if you disable it for a couple of videos, it generally has it off.
Este post está dedicado específicamente a @marzipanandminutiae, pero lo mismo le va a servir a cualquiera que quiera ampliar su vocabulario en esta dirección.
Primero: recursos generales.
El diccionario que cuando yo estaba en la uni llamábamos el DRAE (Diccionario de la Real Academia Española) tiene un conjugador de verbos incorporado. Al buscar cualquier verbo, a la izquierda se ve donde pone "conjugación", y te salen todos los verbos que necesites y los que no necesites también (incluyendo nombres cuestionables porque me expliquen a ver qué hostias es un antecopretérito, el caso es torturar a los pobres niños en la escuela).
La RAE también tiene otros recursos interesantes como archivos y corpus históricos y el Diccionario Panhispánico de Dudas, pero igual eso ya son asuntos más avanzados.
Como sé que a Marzi específicamente no le da demasiado miedo meterse en zonas históricas, estoy segura de que le va a interesar explorar la Biblioteca Cervantes Virtual, donde una puede encontrar archivos varios desde ediciones facsímil de textos del s.XVI a traducciones de clásicos literarios de la lengua inglesa como Carmilla.
Tampoco hay que olvidar que Project Gutenberg tiene una sección entera de ediciones en español, y por favor que nadie subestime el poder de leer la wikipedia en castellano para aprender vocabulario.
En el curso de escribir este post, al buscar algo para asegurarme de que no me lo había inventado, he encontrado este documento de la Fundéu. La fundación se dedica a escribir guías para uso en periodismo, esto es un glosario para artículos de moda. Lo cual me recuerda que curiosear en tiendas de telas para aprender vocabulario es una técnica perfectamente razonable.
Ahora, la razón principal por la que quería hacer un post entero es que cuando dijo Marzi anoche que quería practicar pero necesitaba vocabulario temático, me acordé de que tengo una revista con páginas de referencia y un montón de vocabulario útil.
Así que presento, debajo del corte, páginas del nº 771 de la revista Labores del Hogar, de la primavera del 2024 (que me compró mi padre cuando estuve en el hospital y que guardé obviamente porque los patrones no caducan):
(con perdón por las partes borrosas)
Glosario (en orden de las fotos):
-Bordado: embroidery
-Punto de cruz: crosstitch
-Los puntos varios de bordado no los voy a incluir todos porque no los conozco todos y si me pongo a buscarlos en el RNS Stitchbank voy a tardar el día entero.
-El punto cruzado escapulario yo lo llamo crucetilla: catchstitch/herringbone stitch, it's good to remember that most things have multiple names in all languages, but especially so in languages used in so many countries.
-pespunte: backstitch/topstitch, they're different but I've heard the word used for both.
-punto llano: satin stitch.
-La vainica: I think this is called drawn thread lace work?
-Esquinas en diagonal: mitered corners.
-La presilla: thread loop.
-El hilván/hilvanar: basting.
-Sobrehílo: overcast stitch.
-Ribete al biés: bias binding.
-Ganchillo: crochet. (El ganchillo con artículo es más bien el instrumento con el que se hace el asunto.) (Esta página es la más borrosa; aviso que yo uso la terminología estadounidense:)
-punto de cadeneta: chainstitch.
-Derecho: right side.
-Revés: wrong side.
-punto enano: slipstitch.
-punto bajo: single crochet.
-punto de cangrejo: this is some sort of fancy rotated stitch and it's definitely not part of the basic stitch catalogue so I don't know its name.
-punto medio alto: half-double crochet.
-punto alto: double crochet.
-punto alto doble: triple crochet.
-Jacquard: refers to colourwork.
(-knitting as a craft is called hacer punto, yes it's confusing)
-punto de media: stockinette
-muestra de orientación: swatch
-una vuelta: one row
-montar puntos: cast-on
-punto derecho: knit stitch
-punto revés: purl stitch.
-punto de musgo: !! attention false friend. This is garter stitch, the one where you knit all rows no purling. The one that is called moss stitch in English is punto de arroz. (doublechecks: uh so apparently what I learned here is BRITISH moss stitch/seed stitch and what most search results are showing me is the same thing but double but as mentioned, everything needs fifteen names)
-punto elástico 1/1: 1x1 ribbing
-cerrar puntos: bind-off
-patchwork y quilt son obviamente anglicismos. Quilt me parece particularmente innecesaria cuando la colcha de toda la vida sigue siendo una palabra perfectamente común, pero retazal o almazuela son palabras más en desuso para referirse al patchwork.
-La tela: fabric
-El alfiler: pin
-la aguja: needle
-el punzón: awl
-el dedal: thimble
-la cartulina: cardstock
-la plantilla: stencil
-el bastidor: embroidery frame
-calcar: to trace
-recortar: does NOT mean to cut twice it's the same as cortar.
-la boatina: guata is the word I learned, this is batting.
-el forro: lining
-recto hilo: the straight of grain
-la trama: weft (we called it el contra)
-la urdimbre: warp
-encarar derecho con derecho: right sides facing
-puntadas: stitches
-reforzar: reinforce
-rematar: to reinforce or knot the last stitch.
Otras palabras relevantes que no salen en la revista:
-la cotilla: stays (historical) (also the word for a gossip...no comment on that)
-la costura: refers to both sewing as a whole and seams in specific
-la cremallera: zipper
-el cuerpo: bodice (modern)
-las enaguas: underskirt, petticoat
-la entretela: interfacing
-fruncir: to gather
-las hombreras: shoulder pads
-el imperdible: safety pin
-la indumentaria tradicional: traditional costume
-la librea: livery
-la manga: sleeve
-el manguito: uhh handwarmer? the kind of sleeve cilinder that isn't actually attached to the bodice. Also the kind of arm floaties to put on children.
-la mezclilla: this is the mexican word for denim, we call it tela vaquera
Cuando empecé a hilar me enseñaron a mover la mano que lleva el huso, y es lo mismo que he visto en los tutoriales de youtube. Sin embargo, mi problema está en estirar y preparar la lana con la otra mano, pero eso es algo que nadie acaba de explicar, se da por sentado.
He pensado que a lo mejor no he preparado bien la lana (también está esquilada de aquella manera y la trabajo como viene), pero noto que la mano izquierda es torpe y débil. Preparar y estirar la lana requiere mucha coordinación y control de la fuerza y no estoy acostumbrada a hacerlo.
Total, que ayer se me ocurrió que a lo mejor puedo girar el huso con la mano izquierda y estirar la lana con la derecha.
He empezado a hilar en la calle a veces, lo que suele traerme a señoras de más de 70 años que hilaban de chicas y que vienen a decirme cosas (normalmente, que qué bien lo hago). Hace décadas que no hilan y ya no tienen las manos con la misma agilidad, así que nunca me acaban de enseñar cómo lo hacían ellas.
Hoy me ha parado una por la calle para corregirme la técnica según me vio ayer y me dijo, cuando le conté que lo que me cuesta es sacar la lana con la mano izquierda, que es que debería de parar para estirar la lana y prepararla y luego guiarla, que no hilas del tirón constantemente. Tiene sentido porque la fibra de la lana es bastante corta, a lo mejor puedes hilar sin parar con lino porque la fibra es más larga, no sé, no consigo lino ni para atrás.
Otra cosa que mencionó como de pasada es que tienes que aprender a hacerlo con las dos manos "como el bolillo", que sí lo haces con la mano izquierda así, pero claro que si te pasa alguna otra cosa, lo tienes que hacer con la otra mano. Como una obviedad grandísima, claro que hilas con la derecha o con la izquierda, y preparas la lana con las dos, algo que nadie me había dicho nunca antes.
---
When I learned spinning yarn and what I have seen overall in youtube tutorials is how to spin with the drop spindle hand. However, what I struggle with is drafting with the other hand. And nobody seems to show how to work on that, as if it is secondary.
Maybe I haven't prepared my wool right (I work from poorly sheared fleece), but I also notice that my left hand is clumsy and weak. Drafting requires a lot of coordination and strength control and I am just not used to it.
Just yesterday it occurred to me that maybe I can try to spin with my left hand and draft with my right hand.
I started spinning in the street sometimes, which gives me a lot of conversations with ladies that are over 70 years old who used to spin as kids, and they usually congratulate me on how well I do it. Unfortunately, they haven't spun in decades and their hands are not what they used to, so they cannot show me how they do it themselves.
One of them today told me that actually, you are supposed to stop spinning, prepare the wool for drafting and then kind of guide it with that hand. So it's not supposed to be a constant and continuous flow, which makes sense for wool because the fiber is quite short. Maybe you can draft from flax easily because it's way longer, I don't know, I don't have access to flax.
Anyways, she also mentioned that you have to learn to do it with both hands, "just like with lace". Sure, you will mainly do it with your dominant hand, but sometimes you just can't, so apparently it's so obvious that you just learn to do spinning and drafting with both hands that nobody had thought of telling me before.
Hey i’m a fashion design student so i have tons and tons of pdfs and docs with basic sewing techniques, pattern how-tos, and resources for fabric and trims. I’ve compiled it all into a shareable folder for anyone who wants to look into sewing and making their own clothing. I’ll be adding to this folder whenever i come across new resources
Updated just now with new hand sewing resources (mainly buttonholes) and textbook pdfs on fashion history, fashion illustration, and thinking through designs!
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Os presento mi primer gorro hecho con lana merina que he lavado en el río, esparpillado, cardado y tejido yo misma. La lana es de las ovejas que tenemos en la finca, pero francamente, creo que no tendría problema en conseguir lana un poco de cualquiera en este pueblo. Tengo sacos y sacos por trabajar todavía.
Estimo que debe de tener un par de meses de trabajo más o menos diario (pero no lo he hecho así, en su momento hilé 2 ovillos como ese blanco y negro seguidos y cada uno de ellos me llevó unos 3 meses, 1 mes por cada cabo que tiene el hilo).
Es muy agradable al tacto tanto para tejerlo como para llevarlo puesto. Es verdad que ahora mismo solo está lavado en el río, tendría que darle un poco de agua caliente y jabón, pero en cualquier caso 10/10 como experiencia para tejer.
ok thank god there's so many fucking videos showing you how to do a ladder stitch like it's some kind of magic trick but here's the actual use case for it: closing a seam you can't reach the inside of. in all other cases, if you're fixing a ripped seam on pants, or on a tshirt, the ladder stitch is a messy, glorified running stitch.
It's waterproof. It's windproof. It's lightweight and durable. And it's made from the intestines of two bears, painstakingly cleaned and sew
I really wanted to know more about this, especially how the water proof stitching works. Here's more information on this project, and hopefully more in the future!
"Sys how is your decent into fiber arts hell going"
Glad you asked. I have arrived at 'modern flax is Bullshit compared to what we had in historical textiles, the flax widely available for handspinning is basically the tow that would be discarded from textile creation and used with tar to caulk ships back in the day'
This naturally led me down a hole of 'why is the staple length of this stuff a bullshit 6 inches' and the answer is 'we have bred modern flax more for the oil than the fiber because cotton usurped the place of everyday textile thanks to slavery and the cotton gin'
Anyway, THIS led me to a rabbit hole that culminated in me finding flax seed bred for proper 30 inch tall plants for fiber, sold by some fellow minded nerds on a website that has not been updated since 1998 and you have to email them to buy anything.
I FAILED YOU ALL here is the site. You can also buy flax fiber from them. The PROPER shit, not the hot garbage ass tow fiber sold as flax top for handspinners.
'machine combing shortens the flax fibers by several inches'
This right here is part of why modern linen is a pale shadow of historical linen. Legitimately it cannot be properly replicated by machines. It HAS to be made by human hands if you want the best quality.
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This is a reinterpretation of a warp weighted loom, using tree branches as the frame and sand filled bottles as the weights. A brilliant reimagining, imo. From the recent Radical Textiles at the Adelaide Art Gallery, South Australia.
Another piece for the Pearl Ellis art Exhibit on March 1st.
This beadwork tobacco bag was beaded in traditionally smoke tanned #buckskin leather sewn in an imitation of an octopus bag.
It features a forget me not in 4 stages of growth, representing the four directions and four seasons. North/Winter for vegetation, East/Spring for flower buds, South/Summer for flowers and West/Fall for seed pods.