how soon is forever

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LUTZ HUELLE S/S 2026 ‘Bourgeois dressing has never really been my thing. Too rigid, too constrained. It has always meant adhering to strict codes- the opposite of freedom. And yet, there’s a certain security to it, an ease to the bourgeois uniform that I find deeply fascinating- one that feels especially comforting and right for the times we live in. And then there’s the underlying sexual tension inherent to these codes, which I love. 

LUTZ HUELLE F/W 2025

‘…a wardrobe of versatile pieces that mix and match in a flash, bringing a welcome jolt of wit and panache to the everyday, all without seeming to try too hard.’ Tiziana Cardini on LUTZ HUELLE FW2025 on VOGUE RUNWAY

“I think you can sell creativity, and you can make a lot of money with creativity. And also, you can lose a lot of money with something that is not creative at all. This whole discussion is old in a way. If you find the right people, you have the same goal, and you understand each other, then the sky is the limit.”

“On my last day I saw two wonderful shows, Lutz Huelle and Sacai. Huelle, who worked closely with Martin Margiela, has been quietly designing truly excellent fashion for years without much recognition from the fashion system. His experience shows in expertly combined garments that are chic, fashion-forward, and eminently wearable all at once. This collection was everything I miss about the ‘90s but updated for today; nonchalance, sophisticated sexiness, confidence, and — gasp — fun! Fun is the word fashion has forgotten. Fashion was fun in the ‘80s and the ‘90s. Now it is serious business in which everything is airtight to the point of suffocation. Huelle’s show, where the soundtrack went from Patti Smith to Italo disco, was a reminder that it doesn’t have to be this way.” Eugene Rabkin on LUTZ HUELLE SS24 on STYLE ZEITGEIST

LUTZ HUELLE NO.7 F/W 2003 'THE SMITHS AT THE DISCO' Listening to The Smiths’ ‘The Queen is dead’ on repeat.. the idea of mixing Glitter and the Ordinary : a Men’s Blazer with Fringes, striped Shirting is worn with sequinned TShirts, Sweatshirts in grey Jersey have wide glittering hems. A striped Mohair Sweater is draped around the Body. I asked myself: ‘How can I put the aggressive, ‘street’ attitude of a Bomberjacket into a pleated dress? The result was this: I fixed some of the pleats so they didn’t move, cut the shape of a Bomber ( those pockets, the rib finishing) into the pleats as if it was a flat fabric, then left the rest of the pleats open to move freely. Ideas from this collection keep on coming up in later collections, especially the fixed/nonfixed pleats that I’m still using today.

LUTZ HUELLE No.25 F/W 2012 'THE RAIN' Inspired by watching people covering themselves in a sudden burst of rain – pulling the collar of a jacket closer together, or even up over the head or draping a scarf or sweater over the shoulders, this collection became all about the silhouette : Volume on top, highwaisted, with a line drawn just under the bust by pants and long gloves. It also became very much about everything I have always loved : The draping of everyday garments (in this case a biker jacket that is elongated and oversized in the front, or has its' sleeves shortened to be worn with zipped gloves, and a tailored overcoat that has its’ volume in the front tripled) Then there are the sportswear influences : elastic cutouts in pleated dresses – turning the pleats into a graphic motif – and in tailored pants. In the knitwear, Alpaca worked with Lycra in a jaquard turns cardigans into featherlight, highly extensible Overcoats. The superhigh-waisted pants from my Debut is back, this time tapered at the leg and finished with a large elastic hem. Capes are zipped open horizontally just below the shoulder and worn as shortsleeved coats. Fabrics are partly coated with a rainproof film to protect and add shine to matt surfaces. Finally, Ankleboots are made of smocked leather inspired by Bikerwear.

 “Huelle wears his remarkable creativity and skills with such levity, it feels almost ridiculously effortless (..) Tiziana Cardini on S/S 2025 on VOGUE RUNWAY

"Huelle’s work is interesting because it remains alive to chance and is unspoiled" Cathy Horyn on S/S 2025 on THE CUT/ NEW YORK MAGAZINE

“…a masterful deconstruction and reimagining of classic wardrobe staples, blurring the lines between formal and casual, masculine and feminine.” Lutz Huelle S/S 2025 on RAIN MAGAZINE

Cate Blanchett wears Lutz's Gradient Denim Suit for AZ Factory to the ‘Sophie’s Choice’ 40th Anniversary screening at the MoMA in New York City, styled by Elizabeth Steward

"Inside Lutz Huelle’s Extravagant AZ Factory Takeover" Alex Fury on Lutz Huelle for AZ Factory on ANOTHER MAGAZINE, Photography by Sebastian Lager, Styling by Chloe Grace Press

"Is Lutz Huelle Paris’s most underrated designer? Seeing him back on the runway after a four-year gap, the thought came to mind. The deconstructed vintage jeans Huelle rehabs into hybridized trousers were trending all over town this week. Designers must know a good idea when they see one. He makes the “real clothes” that everyone is talking about this season with not much in the way of resources but quite a lot in the way of creative aplomb, and he’s been doing so for years." Nicole Phelps on LUTZ HUELLE F/W 2024 on VOGUE RUNWAY

"..a zesty, yet approachable lineup of wardrobe builders with as much personality as practicality." Miles Socha on AZ Factory by Lutz Huelle PreFall 2024 in WWD

Every once in a while a collection feels like a new beginning, a step forward that is not just a continuation of what has been before but a manifestation of what is to come.. and this Collection, Fall/Winter 2017, holds a very special special place in my heart. The preceding two had been the most successful since our beginnings, and we were visible in a way we had never been before. This, in turn, made me feel like anything was possible, a sort of euphoric sense of inspiration that just seemed to propel me forward. In hindsight there were too many ideas, and not all of it was necessarily easy, but it was impossible to not let myself get caught up in the wave of excitement we all felt.

Lutz Huelle talks to Godrey Deeny about “Being an Independent Designer in Paris” on Luxurynsight x FashionNetwork