Daviॐ

notes chris, “as a culture, surfing has always been rooted in the idea of going further and deeper and getting farther away.” adds surfer patrick millin, featured above, “it’s so rare in this day and age that you’re able to discover a new wave. these places are so unexplored.“  

that said, even with the insulation of a neoprene wetsuit, “if you get flushed with water when you fall down, it’s like you’re getting electrocuted,” he continues. “the water is so cold it feels like fire. It strips your air away.” 

“if you had to duck under consecutive waves you would get a crazy headache and it felt like my eye sockets were physically swelling to the point I thought they might swell my eyes shut.”