SparrowLegs Interior Renovations

Not long ago, I built a new roof from scratch. This was my first roof and luckily it was for a play area, so if it leaked, nothing of value would be ruined. Most of the materials used were new except for the tiles which were reclaimed.

(Central Brittany Slate Roofing project - Play-barn) 

Having the opportunity of building this with both the clients understanding that this was my very first and having the trust in me to complete it was an honour. 

It was a project I always wanted to take on, especially using a traditional roofing material such as slate. I knew the principles of construction and have the skills with putting something of this size together, but nothing is as good as physically building.

Being an interior builder, I have the tools for cutting, shaping and nailing timber together. The only specialist items I had to use was a slate tile cutter and a proper roofing hammer.

                     (Slate Roofing Hammer & Cutter)

Building the timber frame isn't that dissimilar to building timber stud-work, there are rules to follow with regards to sizes of timber used as-well as the spacing between them.

  Tiling is similar tiling a wall or floor, though using Tile hooks (crochets ardoise in French) for fixing not tile adhesive. One thing which isn't similar is the lapping of the tiles, his is something which is quick to learn though.

                                                                                            (Types of slate tile hooks)

  Roofs in Brittany background basics In Central Brittany, it's common to have black slate roofs built on stone walls. Properties are 40 to 50m2 per floor level and a roof of is usually at a 42 degree pitch and a surface area of 50 to 60m2. (And no they don’t follow the golden ratio – 1:1.62!)

The construction is simple. The ridge beam and purlins are generally set in the gable ends, the rafters are then nailed 90 degrees to the ridge and purlins (set 400mm apart, on the rafter centre). Then you have barge board 90 degrees to rafters, with a waterproof membrane (sarking felt) running 90degrees from the boards and tiles sit on top.

                             (Half Gable Roof in Central Brittany)

Tips and Tricks

Type of ladders - As you can see from the pictures, this roof is a half gable, IE the Ridge beam is against the gable end of the existing building. As such this makes a modern roofing ladder useless as you have nothing to catch onto.

I noticed that the local roofers used wooden Ladders and I quickly pick up the reason why. Using the crochets, you could attach the ladder.

NB There are two types of Crochets as well as many sizes - Crochet Point, you hammer the point into the barge board. Crochet Agrafe hooks over battons instead.

Tile sizes, and mapping out - There is not much to say about tile sizes, usually the size and type of material used depends of the available budget. I was using reclaimed slate tiles 200mm x 300mm, As such, I used 100mm long crochets as this allowed for a 3 overlaps of tiles. 

With regards to mapping out, I did very little in the way of chalk-lining. As the tiles are 300mm and the Crochets are 100mm, you'll generally stay straight and true, though do check once in a while.

 I did ensure that the horizontal and vertical of the timber frame did have a 90 degrees angle on the edges.  

Using the sarking as a guide - When buying sarking, you will notice that it is generally 1100mm in width, you are to overlap the ends 100mm (which the sarking has a printed line as a guide). If you set the guide line 90 degrees from the ridge/top plate or the verges then it becomes a great guide for the tiles.

                                                            (Sarking Felt overlay)

How to start off - You start from the bottom and work your way up. With a 300mm length tile I set a 100mm overhang at the bottom. To do this I measure 100mm up from bottom of the barge-board at either end and chalk-lined. Then 101mm parallel above the first line, I chalked again. (The 1mm allow for the 2.7mm thickness of the Crochet.) Repeat this 2 or 3 times and that should be enough. The first run of tiles I turn 90 degrees and nail. (So the top of the tile lines up with the chalk-line and you have 100mm overhang.) The second run sit direct on the first set of tiles, but now the correct way round. Both first and second set of tiles should be flush at the bottom and the top of the second run should line up with the second chalkline.   

How to do your runs - There are two ways of doing your runs, either build up in pyramids of in straight line. I worked out if you laying tiles on your own, then doing straight line of 4 tiles per line, allow you to do 90/100 tiles an hour. If there are two of you, then the pyramid is faster.

I am capable of doing more than just bathrooms, though I seem to be a magnet regarding building them. This one is a little different. For starters, the client is French, not the usual English crowd inhabiting the local area.

  From a build and design point of view, again this project was different due to the French culture, which surfaced during the build and dictated the materials chosen, which effected the form.

  The brief before starting was that the house was going to be completely renovated for holiday rentals. As such the rooms are to be themed, bedroom one – traditional boat theme, bedroom two – 70’s theme (Laval laps, bright colours etc.). Different themes to be continue throughout, the bathroom being no exception.

My understanding of the client theming the house is a simple; furnishings costs and providing the holidaymaker with a fun experience when on vacation.

When shopping for home furnishings, the bargain items are usually bright, garish, and usually only chosen for small areas within any given room to create a feel, without being overwhelmed. IE Wallpapering just one wall, having a heavy print, is acceptable. Having it throughout the whole room though maybe a little OTT.

  My client has taken advantage of the price reductions of these materials and utilised this to his own benefit. If a wall needs 10m2 of tiles, if it’s the same price for the bargain basement plan white or mock bamboo, I like the adventurous option.

So, back to the bathroom – an Oriental inspired bathroom, dictated by the mock straw and bamboo tiles, which there wasn’t enough to cover the whole wall. As this is a price driven project the only readily available tiles left were pebble. And still there wasn't enough of those either.

  (Pebble's, Mock Straw & Red Tiles)

    The cultural difference in mentality only surfaced when it came to the shower installation. Now I'm cautious about talking about the comparisons between two cultures, though this is the 21st century and I've been living in a foreign county for many years, you do become aware of the differences and it’s enlightening when the root decisions become apparent and effect the finished design.

  Back to the shower area, I have a saying, KISS - “keep it simple, stupid”.  No matter what shape or style of the bathroom, I like to get the first fix out the way, and then do the ceiling, walls and then floors in that order not unless it’s a wet room design; floor and then wall as I like the wall tile to sit on the floor tile.

  Once the room has taken shape, then the bathroom furniture is fitted and you are finished. If a shower is to be installed, I would use shower glass, never would I build a box in the corner of a room and then add a glass door. What would be the point, it cost more and you lose the clean lines of the room.

  Example - 

(Clean Lines)

  When asked to box the oriental themed bathroom, I was curious to know the reason why?

The Client explained that as it’s for holiday rentals, he wanted something sturdy and unbreakable. The shower head had to be attached to the ceiling, so it couldn’t be touched, the taps set into the wall so it impossible to fiddle with connections, nor having a bar to pull off the wall. I like some of these features, from a design point of view – giving nice clean lines, but building a wall to surround the shower area so no glass could be broken seem to me to be a little excessive. It costs more in materials – Gypsum Block, more tiles and also the hours of work involved. Whereas installing a piece of glass cost very little, take no time at all to install and easy to replace if needed.

    (Gypsum Block - Shower Area)

On various forums the question of how long does something within the home take to build or renovate? It always makes me laugh when the answer is less than week.

When it comes to bathrooms, this question is as long and it is boards, it depends if you’re planning a full renovation within a space that never was intended to be used as a bathroom, or if you are just planning to update your existing bathroom suite?

Over the years this question has even been difficult for me to answer, especially as I have to quote a price for any given building job that I’m looking to do.

However, in the last 12 months, I have built all manners of bathrooms; from small to large, modern to country style, wet-rooms, and some custom designs with audio speakers, coving and Tadelakt walls and floors.

As a rule of thumb, 150 man hours would be a fair answer; this would include the following work to be completed:

  Gutting out the bathroom suit, and removal of any walls.

Trip to the dump and shopping.

Stud work and first fix - Electrics and Plumbing.

Drylining and plastering.

New Evacs for shower, standard or wet-room style.

Installation of under floor heating and floor levelling.

Painting of ceiling and walls

Tiling floors and walls

Grouting - Boring, but should look great if done with some love!

Detailing i.e. - wood panelling

Fixing of fixtures - Baths, shower screens mixers, sinks toilet, lights, fans etc.

Installing or building of storage spaces.

Snagging.

As you can see, you either need multiple tradesman, or the skills and tools of many different trade. Amazing to think, when its generally one of the smallest rooms in your home.

Labourer

Electrician

Plumber

Plasterer

Painter

Tiler

And maybe a Carpenter.

It's all well and good earning your keep in exchange for accommodation, but we all do need beer money!

I have been lucky enough to find work here in Central Brittany. Another bathroom renovation/new build which seems to be the theme of late.

Ten day in and the first challenge arrived -

Add to the mix:

Wet room pre-formed shower tray. (1000mm x1600mm)

150mm x 600mm Tile

Main floor to be tiled in the herringbone pattern.

Result:

Smart ass builder who suggested to continue the theme into the shower floor area!

As per my previous post, the bathroom I have built will be coming to an end today. Just top coat of paint, and final fixings to add.

Though it took a little longer than planned, (due to paid work commitments). I, aswell as my hosts are happy with the outcome. (I they are anyway!)

As per my previous post "A FEW WEEKS DOWN THE LINE", my free accommodation is in exchange for my skills as a builder. As such, I ended up remodelling their bathroom, (Bathroom renovations are story of my life& Grr), though...

CURRENT PROJECT = Bathroom renovation in Brittany, France. 

Floor has been sanded, stained and vanished. New window fitted, plumbing positioned, plastering and timber cladding done.

THE principle of condensation is that wherever a warm humid air meets a cold surface the water will be   precipitated, thus where internal air holds a fairly high moisture content dampness may appear on the relatively cold walls. In many cases the walls are sufficiently porous to absorb these products of condensation, but areas of differential absorption occur and isolated patches of dampness may be observed.

  Other instances are a result of an impervious coat behind wallpaper such as oil paint which has been applied by a previous owner to shield a greasy patch on the wall beneath. Generally, condensation manifests itself as a fairly evenly distributed moisture layer over the whole wall, but as pointed out above, isolated instances may be observed through the causes given. A dado which has been painted over has given the appearance of rising dampness, due to condensation forming only on that lower portion of the wall bearing the oil paint.

  New buildings are sometimes fairly seriously affected by condensation, due to the large quantities of water which are introduced   through construction; in fact, in a normal domestic dwelling several tons of water are used. This moisture may take a considerable time to evaporate and a property constructed- during the winter period may take at least the summer season following   construction before any appreciable reduction In condensation is observed. 

Dampness in sill can be obviated by cutting a weather groove as shown.

  Interstitial Condensation

Another form of Condensation is known as interstitial. This is a term used to describe condensation forming within the body of the wall, and is brought about by existence in the wall of a position where the influence of the warm air of the building is overcome by the cold air outside, thus moisture vapour within the wall is converted into water, and therefore saturation takes place, Eventually leading to dampness appearing on the internal face of the wall when the external surface is insufficiently porous to allow evaporation. To overcome the effects of condensation, the work would appear to fall into only two alternatives: (a) the lowering of the moisture content of the air, or (b) the warming of the surface with which the air is in contact. The former method is not easily achieved, since it means increased ventilation, sometimes to an uncomfortable level, or the restricting of all heat and steam producing equipment to a minimum so that the air is maintained at the same temperature as the walls, and the moisture content controlled at a lower level.

The latter method would therefore seem to be the most reasonable, being achieved by adding a measure of thermal insulation.

Suitable Insulation

Where condensation is not severe, a good stout lining paper applied before decorative paper may add just sufficient insulation to obviate the formation of moisture, but more often than not the most reliable method is to apply a wall board on battens completely shielding the old surfaces of the external walls. This wall board is more readily adjusted to the temperature of the internal air and may be distempered, painted with emulsion paint or wall papered to comply with the decorative conditions of the rest of the property. Anti-condensation paints are available, but would not be expected to control heavy deposits and are not considered to be decorative paint.

Chimneys

Chimneys often show the results of condensation by a damp patch occurring somewhere on the chimney walls or on ceilings immediately in contact with chimney wall. In this instance, the moisture may result from the condensation of flue gases within the flue and is more frequently observed on external flues such as boiler flues, and very often the cause may be traced to burning wet fuel, such as coal stored in the open, or the burning of kitchen waste. This condensation normally carries with it harmful products of combustion in the form of sulphates which can bring about cracking of brickworks, disintegration of plaster and may also be associated with an objectionable smelt. The blocking of a disused fireplace may result in dampness within the flue, since the natural ventilation is restricted and rain falling down the flue is absorbed by the brick- work without the advantage of ventilation or heat in the flue to assist or encourage evaporation. Where it is desirable to block up a flue, it is advisable to provide a ventilator and prevent rain falling down by fitting a cowl of the type which has open sides and a closed top. The sulphates deposited on the surface of the wall from condensation within flues will often spoil decorations, and the method of shielding the decorative coating from the effects of these sulphates after condensation within the flues has been cured is dealt with under to "Deliquescent Salts"

 Various causes of dampness through faulty course.

Deliquescent Salts

Dampness due to deliquescent salts is probably the most difficult of all damp problems to overcome. These salts are highly sensitive to atmospheric moisture and, although there are several types which affect buildings, perhaps the most common is sodium chloride, i.e., common household salt, which may be introduced into the structure through the use of sea sand or river sand and ballast obtained from tidal water in mortar or plaster. Another source of deliquescent salts is from the ground, introduced by rising dampness or from rain penetration through the walls, gathering the salts contained in the brickwork as it passes and depositing them on the internal surface by evaporation. To confirm the presence of these salts is not a simple matter, but they may be generally observed as complete wetting of the whole surface simulating condensation or as patches of dampness, occurring when the air is particularly humid or when there is a rapid alteration in the atmospheric conditions conductive to condensation. Where the action is due to contaminated sands such as sea sand, the salts normally remain just within the surface of the material and are very difficult to eradicate and sometimes it has been necessary to completely strip the affected plaster and reinstate with uncontaminated material.

In the few weeks since arriving in Brittany France, I've noticed a major difference in building construction to what I have been used to. 

The main difference it the first floor. It is common for home to be slate and stone, with the first floor effectively being in the attic.

This has made me think a little more than usual when carrying out Bathroom refits, especially when it comes to showers.

Usually, when installing a shower, making sure the evacuation pipe is set to the correct incline would be the only major thing to consider. But, with the properties in  Brittany, this maybe not possible as there is generally not enough space under the floor due to the construction. IE if your lucky, the floorboards are 18mm, sitting on sheet boards of 18mm which lie on the Joists. 

To add to the difficulty, the joists are exposed. 

So, what to do?

Bathroom design using CAD software for a perspective client in Brittany France.

Bathroom design using CAD software for a perspective client in Brittany France.

As the bathroom is communal and shared between two bedroom, the clients want it to be larger and less claustrophobic.