If you think that you can translate the Greek word fillo, derived from the ancient Greek word phyllo (a leaf) as "puff pastry," then you're close, but not quite correct. Whereas puff pastry contains eggs and its individual layers are separated by cold butter, (which then melts in the oven and helps it puff up nicely), fillo pastry relies on more stability. Its basic ingredients are nothing special. Flour, water, fat, and salt are kneaded until the dough attains the correct consistency: light, but tear-resistant, like strudel pastry. The thin layers are separated with oil instead of butter. The secret of rolling it out lies not only in the skill of the master flllo-pastry maker, but also in the thin wooden rolling pin, which is about 20 inches (50 centimeters) long and perfectly straight, having no handles. These rods guarantee good contact with the pastry and the even pressure that is essential if the fillo is to attain its leaf-like delicacy.
Using your hands, combine the flour, vinegar, oil, salt, and water, and knead to form a smooth dough. Then sprinkle the pita dough with flour, cover, and place in a refrigerator for at least 1 hour. It would be impossible to roll out the pastry thin enough without the special, long, thin, wooden rolling pin. The prepared pastry can be rolled out again in the greased baking pan. The individual layers are brushed with butter.
Bougatsa (fillo pastry with cream filling)
Along with piropita (sheep's milk cheese pita) and spanakopita (spinach pita), sweet bougatsa is another phyllo pastry delicacy more usually found in the pita stalls than in the bakeries with their syrup cakes. The cream filling makes the pastry rich, so that it is served as a snack in its own right rather than as a dessert, and as such it can take the addition of cinnamon and sugar.
1 1/2 cups fine semolina
1 1/2 generous cups sugar
3 eggs
6 cups milk
Grated zest of 1 unwaxed or well-scrubbe lemon
1/2 cup + 2 tbsp butter
1lb phyllo pastry
Confectioner's sugar
Ground cinnamon
Beat the semolina, sugar, and eggs until frothy. Transfer the mixture to a pan and add the milk, stirring constantly. Bring to a boil several times and then stir in the grated lemon zest. Leave to cool. Preheat the oven to 350 of (180 °C). Melt the butter and brush over the individual sheets of pastry. Place half the pastry on a greased baking sheet, spread the creamy mixture out evenly on top, and cover with the remaining pastry. Bake in a preheated oven for about 20 minutes until the pastry is golden brown and crispy on top and the filling has set. Leave the bougatsa to cool slightly, then sprinkle with confectioner's sugar and cinnamon and cut into slices. Bougatsa is best eaten while still warm.
In Ioannina, each slice of bougatsa is served with a sweet roll and a glass of water.
Pour the prepared cream filling onto the layers of pastry forming the base. Place the cover on the cream filling, building it up gradually layer by layer, and press the excess pastry firmly together. While still warm, dredge the bougatsa with confectioner's sugar and cinnamon, and serve immediately.
The next day, all bougatsa need to make it taste almost oven-fresh is another sprinkling of confectioner's sugar
Excerpt from: "Culinaria Greece" by Marianthi Milona
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