Flight of Feathers

(Photo: Lagos, Portugal)

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The room was brilliant. Four person dorm room right next to the kitchen and common room, with airconditioning and a private bathroom. All you need really.

First day without the girls and it was a lot more fun than I expected it to be. When you are travelling by yourself and you want to meet people, do your research into hostels that run events or trips so you can sign up and meet people on them. Great if the people that are staying in your room don't get along that well with you and just want to do their own thing (which is a risk a lot of the time, apparently from speaking with other solo travellers.) The Dubrovnik Backpackers Club, had a sign up sheet for a day trip on a boat so I signed up and went along with another 5 staying in the hostel. One lovely aussie girl, two beautiful young ones from Wales and then poor old Diego who was the only other guy besides the guy running the day trip. We were taken to a beautiful dock where we piled onto a tiny fishing boat which was extremely slow and taken to a few beautiful areas where we could jump off the boat and snorkel and go cave diving. (I've snorkeled before, but once I went underwater I started have a small anxiety attack. Weird for someone who has no fear of water!) We were then taken to a small beach which was only accessible by boat and had lunch. Something I really enjoy about Croatia, is the way they serve their chicken. It always comes with a capsicum dip on the side which is bloody delish! The end of the day, we found ourselves back at the dock where we picked up the boat, to watch the sunset. That night, I joined my new friends in the hostel common room. Half went into the old town and the other half stayed behind and we watched the Soccer World cup. I'm not much of a soccer person, but as it haunted me all over Greece with Monique who is obsessed with it, wanting to sit and watch the games evertime there was a television, I felt it necessary to sit and watch what I could while in Europe. Wasn't as bad as I thought. Though I did have my iPad with me to blog so I suppose that helped.

The home is where the heart is. The older I get the more I understand this. The girls and I are currently scattered across an overnight ferry back to Athens leaving the only other places besides Melbourne I consider to be my home-Kythira. I guess we all feel a certain something to places of heritage but Kythira is something more than that for me. It feels part of my soul, so right and comfortable. I was nervous coming back with friends instead of family but the nerves halted as soon as we began driving the winding roads to our hotel and the girls all sat marvelling at the scenery. Walking out onto my tiny balcony and looking into the place that has always been my sanctuary, the pier in the old port in Agia Palagia. I felt at ease. This place does it to me. I become a different person in Kythira. The person I feel I should be. Over the 4 days we were there we visited all my favourite places including Kapsali beach. I was a little nervous after raving about the island, that the girls wouldn't like it but they still haven't stopped talking about it. Everyone is so happy and relaxed after the time. Kapsali beach has the bluest water I have ever seen and it is so calm and quiet, the food is nothing short of amazing and we spent our first afternoon on the beach, relaxed and chatting. The next day, by request we visited a beach that was quite off the beaten track, down hundreds of steep stairs and extremely secluded with caves housing calm and blue water with very painful to walk on pebbles replacing the usual black sand that covers the other beaches in Kythira. We then had lunch in Avlemenas, which has a gorgeous grotto which is famous. Since we were there at a quieter time (not that it gets that busy in Kythira anyway) we had the grotto to ourselves and the many bees buzzing around the flowers hanging over the water. The third day we visited Mylopotumous, a small town which has an almost underground forest where a small waterfall trickles. The mood shifted immensely from walking down into the forest. Everyone was hot and bothered and hungry but as soon as we reached the small stream leading to the cool water of the waterfall everyone quietened down and just enjoyed the moment. It was truly something to be remembered. On our last day I visited the house that was my grandfathers mothers house. Thats when the tears started falling. The house had just been renovated after years of it having stayed in the same condition it had been when it was ours. Sitting on this ferry and reflecting back I realise, just because we no longer have something physical still owned by family, doesn't mean we don't have something there. My heart and soul will always live on that island, and I will forever grow my imagination everytime I visit it.

IOS-Just a blur really. There's no other way to explain IOS, than, it's just a blur. Literally. We're now on our way to Santorini and the 3 days spent in IOS are a blur! Because IOS is known for it's CRAZY nightlife and boy did it live up to it's name. Since Mykonos wasn't that busy, and arriving into the very quiet port of IOS we didn't expect to experience what we did. The bars are all in the small little streets and the bouncers fight to get you into their bars with the promise of free shots (which are usually just cordial) and then shots for 1 euro. So I can tell you. It's true what they say. IOS is the crazy party island. The second night we joined Jess's sister again at Far Out beach hostel. Another gem she'd found with a pool and a bar. Though this time I stayed well away from the cocktails and just spent the day laughing with the girls. Our final night we had dinner at an awesome little restaurant 'Karma' which I highly reccommend to anyone going to IOS who might want a relaxing night away from the town and a good meal. 'Karma' has a no shoes policy and everyone sits on the floor around small tables which have pillows surrounding them with hammocks above your head to sleep on once you've over eaten on the delicious food. Anyway. Now we're on the ferry to Santorini and I can't say much more about IOS than-if you want a great party, love stumbling home at 9am and want to meet heaps of people, go to IOS.

Our time here is coming to an end. Our last day is today. We were going to go to Super Paradise beach to see what the difference was compared to Paradise but ended up staying at Paraga Beach all day. And it ended up being the absolutely best day of the trip so far! We spent the morning doing the touristy things-walking through the town, taking photos at the windmills and having a drink in little Italy (when we arrived we looked around and thought 'this place looks really familiar' when we realised we had been there on our first night, we were just too drunk to realise where we actually were!) Jess's sister was staying at a camping ground with its own pool overlooking Paraga and it's own bar. Enough said really. We spent the day laughing with others we met at the pool, including a lovely Argentinian Antonio and two italian guys Luciano and Guido. One strawberry daiquiri and I was gone, making my day even better with a Pina Colada and that was me done, happy and laughing for the day. Poor Lou added another bit of bad luck to her bag, when she went to take a photo with Jess's camera and dropped it, smashing the screen. We all just stared at it and one by one, started laughing. Poor Lou. Another lot of money to spend unneccessarily. We asked everyone to meet us at Scandinavian Bar later that night which promises to be a guarenteed awesome night. We shall see!

Day 2 of the islands and we couldn't be happier! The mugging in athens seems so long ago. Almost doesn't feel like it happened. Though not for poor Lou it doesn't of course. Our accommodation is perfect, right in town-a spot I suggest to stay over Paradise beach or further out. It's a lot easier walking home every night than catching a bus; especially when you're drunk which you tend to be more often than not when in Mykonos. Madres Apartments where we stayed was fantastic. We were met in the taxi square by the owner and walked up to the room. It was secure, in a great spot and most important of all, had great air-condiitioning and an amazing view. Today we headed to Paradise Beach, just to check what's up down there. What did we find? A bit of a party. A LOT of bogan aussies dancing in their bikinis on tables at 5.00 in the afternoon. We had a bit of a swim, bit of a dance. Met the manager of the club Tropicana which mean't free alcohol which we didn't take that much advantage of in the end. By 9.00pm we were a tired and a bit over it. It seems everyone goes home for their siesta before the party really starts in Paradise. Since we were staying so far from Paradise we couldn't be bothered going home and coming back later to go out, so instead we went home, Steph and Lou went to bed and Moni, Jay and I went for a cocktail. Me in the wedges I made the dash across Athens for. Wasn't putting those babies to waste. We had a lovely night, chatting about family and such over our very cheap and very delicious strawberry daiquiri. Then home by 2.30pm. Sore ankle for me. Even wedges don't do on the cobblestone streets of Mykonos.

@jessofarrell (Taken with Instagram)

Yay! Finally on the ferry to Myknonos! It doesn't even faze me that it's a four and a half hour trip. I think we've all relaxed since leaving Athens, even with the bitter idea that we'll be back in a few weeks to sort out Lou's temporary passport. The ferries aren't too bad. We've already moved once away from some very obvious old men who wouldn't stop staring at my boobs despite the angry looks we kept shooting them. Our new spot isn't the best real estate, but better neighbours. Now i'm writing, Lou's listening to Steph's iPod while she paints her nails and Jess and Moni are sleeping. Ah my quiet little family.

It's been awhile since I've been able to blog, because of the fast paced few days we've had. I think anything that could possibly go wrong on a trip like this, already has. So cross our fingers, thats it for now. Lou and I arrived in Athens to find we were in fact staying in the exact spot people warned us not to go. The hotel itself was great but when we arrived there was a team of police hanging around the outside of our hotel doors. We thought there had been a shooting! Turns out, it's just a police base. Many hugs and screams when we opened the door to Jess and Steph who will be on the full journey with us. Our first night was spent chatting over break-ups and boyfriends and home over our first 2 euro gyros. Bargain and very delicious. The next day we pulled our runners on and hiked up to the Parthenon. I didn't go the last time I was in Athens and didn't have the most interest in seeing it. I'm now glad I did it though. Just for the chance to see the beautiful Greek theatre. Studying Greek tragedy in Drama and Literature in highschool, I"ve always had an interest in it. I love the stories of the gods and the myths that surround them. There's a lot of incest with those gods. That afternoon we spent in our room relaxing and waiting for Monique (or Moni) the final member of our party. By 5pm she still hadn't turned up and we were getting bloody worried since her flight landed at 12pm. After 2 hours of freaking out, calling everyone we knew in Melbourne trying to figure out if she was lying in a gutter somewhere or just stuck at an airport she turned up. Her flight was due in at 6pm, NOT 12 pm. She got it confused. And so it begins... The next day we did Olympia, the touristy run around the Olympic track and hiked the millions of stairs to get a photo of the whole thing; Jess dropped her brand new camera. It now doesn't zoom, or playback photos. Fun times. By our last night, we were over and out with Athens. The next morning, we piled our heavy packs on and pretty much sprinted to get out of the street. Since all I wanted to do was get out of the area, I didn't even notice the three guys following us. Everything happened so quickly. Apparently Lou tripped and her handbag swung out and one of the guys took their chance and grabed it, pulled and broke the strap running off with her passport, iphone, ipod, credit cards, camera and money. So instead of sitting on a ferry to Mykonos we were sitting at the Athens Police station at 6am, which mean't one more night in the dreaded city. We didn't leave the hotel. And if you ever find yourself in a similar situation-food delivery is available in Athens.

Lou and I should be blonde. We really should. We thought we were flying to Athens, wednesday, when in fact we're flying in on thursday! A whole extra day to kill. We just want the islands now! We're sitting under the pagola, eaten a hundred oranges from Yia Yias farmhouse watching the time imagining the other girls at the airport. You'll meet them soon. And watching all the videos on our phones of home. I miss home! Relaxing at a home isn't the same without Coco and Pepe. Billie Piper has just started on Lous iPod. We really do have rare taste. Sorry. There'll be moments when you read what we're listening to and you'll think 'Who listens to this crap?' Well. We do. Loud and proud.

Note: If you're backpacking do this BEFORE you leave, not 5 days in when pressure is high and it's a throw out, not a leave behind. Since Lou's pack is so huge and heavy and makes her look like a Ninja Turtle with a massively overgrown shell we had to cull. Bit of a laugh over the ridiculous things we'd packed-Lou; 4 pairs of tights she didn't need and would cost nothing in the UK in the colder months, and me with my 6 pairs of shorts and expensive belt. Which turned into our first fight of the trip. -Don't go to bed angry with someone whose face you'll see every SINGLE day for 7 months!

Day 2 of the car and FREEDOM! Sounds nice ey? Lou and I drove to Ayia Napa which is known as the party area for tourists where we planned to stay the night and go out. Arriving in the town we found it was a festival weekend and the cost of staying in hotels is a little more than normal so we scrapped that idea and sat in a cafe for lunch and then the white sands of Nissi beach. Tops off and freeballing felt amazing: especially since all the other women on the beach had boobs that sat in their armpits when they lay down. Lou and I felt thin and perky, something we hadn't felt since arriving with all the amazing meals Auntie Susan had been feeding us. Being of Greek Cypriot descent, we of course have more than just my few relos on the island so we called my Yia Yia's sister, Thea Chrystalla who was also visiting from Melbourne, staying with another cousin and we were welcomed with open arms into their home for dinner and sleep. We had a sitcom moment when shown our room. A hard bed with the bedside table and walls COVERED in images of Mary and Jesus. We had a little laugh to ourselves once the door was shut but that soon disappeared once we found the bed was the most uncomfortable thing we had ever slept on-therefore having the worst sleep ever; for now anyway. I'm sure there will be many hostels to come that will give this bed a run for it's money. The next day we got up early and drove with Thea Chrystalla to my fathers Yia Yia's farmhouse which was now owned by my cousin and had fixed up. It was so surreal walking onto the property that 20 years ago I had visited with my mum and dad. Back then the house was a lot smaller and Yia Yia Maria was still alive. I had a little tear under my sunglasses thinking about it. It didn't seem right coming back as an adult without my dad. Slowly, more and more people arrived and we were introduced to cousins and uncles we had never met before. It really was something we'd only ever do once and we feel blessed to have been given the chance to sit with our family-some not even my father had met, and have a big traditional lunch under the fig trees. The one I will never forget is Theo Hambi-My grandmothers youngest brother and the only boy with 3 sisters. Even though he has skitzophrenia I found him to have the sweetest and purest of souls. I was sitting and listening to Thea Chrystalla when a big sloppy kiss was planted on my cheek.

It's true, we've been in Cyprus four days now and we cannot get enough of them. Half milk, half water, two sugars and we're set baby. The past few days have been a bit full on. We were surprised at the airport by our uncle and our Theas (aunties) waving enthusiastically. One of them wanting us to go straight over where she promised a feast. Typical greek hospitality. Have to love it. We're staying with at dads sisters place and we could not feel more at home. Big family dinner on the first night made us realise we'd be leaving Cyprus a lot heavier than when we arrived. Auntie Susan reminds me of my father so much, just in the little things she does which makes me miss home just a little bit more. Little Christian reminds Lou and I of our brothers when they were little and is so full of beans it get a bit tiring for us old farts. Then there's Uncle Thordor (the best way I can think to spell it), the silent assassin. So quiet, yet full of smiles and advice when we need it. The view from their house is simply spectacular, looking out from the patio you see the dusty hills of Cyprus. Such a different place to Greece which is our next stop, yet with the same warmth and comfort in the people and their hospitality. We hired a car on Friday and with some fumbling of the gears and a few small heart attacks (the drivers here are psychos, driving three times the speed limit making me feel like a gorjugerie (old lady-I'll teach you as much greek as I can. I promise.) We made our way up to the small town of Paphos. On the water with markets right around, it was so refreshing from dusty Limassol where we're staying. Lou wanted to see the village Iniea where her Papou grew up so we made our way into the tiny village where we met the beautiful Kristina. A woman who was a stranger and within an hour was a friend, inviting us into her home for a plate of watermelon and haloumi. After some chatting, we discovered her father and Lous Papou grew up next door to each other. From there we continued onto the grey sands of Coral Bay and then onto the Baths of Aphrodite. Apparently the baths are where she bathed and after the hike up the hundreds of stairs through the forest trees we found ourselves at a less than impressive trickle of water in a small grotto. It was quiet at least so we took a few photos and made our way. Our cousin had told us of a tree where if you leave something of yours you will find your true love. I was a bit skepitcal until i remembered she had met her now finace not long after her trip to Cyprus. Unfortunately we couldn´t find the tree so we´ll have to leave the love finding to good old fate.