JR Token, Trout Creek

I rack up, #1s and 2s and 3s with a .5 and a .75. Matt puts me on belay. I laugh and joke about doing some offwidth moves to get on top of the pillar where the route starts. I start up, perfect jams straight in and the 3s go in then the 2s then the 1s.

“She’s going on onsight this,” I hear Matt say.

Keep breathing. If there’s any style of climbing I know I’m good at this is it. Slot my wrist in a constriction and completely relax.

Soon I’m standing on a diagonal ledge and I can see the chains, just 15 feet away. I plug in a .75. The crack slants left here below a slight bulge and I can’t see what’s above it. I try to rest but I’m a bit off balance. It’s tempting to say “take” and get a complete rest but it’s so close now, and I want it. I take a deep breath and start up, thin hands then a tiny ledge. I grab the jug. My hand instantly complains about grabbing a real hold after jamming a crack for 50 feet. My feet clear the bulge and I’m above my gear now, balancing on a smear and an edge. I need to grab a few more holds before I get to the chains, and I feel the panic set in.

“I’m going to fall!” I yell to Matt involuntarily.

I need to do this though, and I climb on, a few laybacking moves that feel like forever.

“I’m going to fall!” I say again.

I see my next hand hold and foot hold clear as day, then myself executing the moves, not quite sure if I’m going to hold on, in slow motion. Deep breaths. It’s all in the mind though, and I’m moving smoothly even though I’m anything but calm. Thank the developers for the mussy hooks! I clip them, yell “take” and feel all the stress leave my body.

“Nice work!” Matt says.