ENDYMA

Paris weekend with the team 🥰 (at Paris....the City Of Love ;)) https://www.instagram.com/p/Cph-T1utW6G/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

'Helmut Lang. […] What he did went far beyond inventing a casual-formal, elegant-subversive uniform—things to wear every day that emitted confidence, centeredness, and sexiness. It was more than that. Everyone who packed his shows felt it […] in Paris, and later, New York. The audience got it. The models embodied it. Nobody voiced it, but everyone knew: It was the coming of age of the cool. - @sarahmower_, 2015 This #HelmutLang tank top from S/S 1997 captures the purity and confidence of the label’s design ethos. Its traditional sleeveless silhouette is realised in extrafine mercerised cotton jersey. A semi-detached application in contrasting hot pink nylon creates a refined but graphic point of interest. The design achieves a streamlined yet unconventionally decorative result that sits somewhere between an everyday wardrobe staple and a high-fashion showpiece. #endyma #helmutlang #helmutlangarchive #helmutlangvintage (at ENDYMA) https://www.instagram.com/p/CpX_gqVNdcj/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

#HelmutLang Jeans S/S 1997: Cafe racer jacket with cock ring in undyed pig leather. Inspired by classic 1950s biker silhouettes, this piece is crafted from leather that has been tanned but not coloured. Nearly all leathers we see on clothing are coloured during or after their tanning process; the ‘unfinished’ treatment seen here produces an unusual neutral colour with subtle shade variations. The leather’s interesting surface complements the classic design, featuring a short adjustable collar, the label’s signature interior square pocket and reversed waist tabs. The iconic cock ring found in early Helmut Lang Jeans garments decorates the shoulder. Runway photo from S/S 1995 where an earlier version of this design sans ring was presented. #endyma #helmutlang #helmutlangarchive #helmutlangvintage (at ENDYMA) https://www.instagram.com/p/CpS_bBANCP9/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

The Helmut Lang A/W 1991 Eagle wings A-line dress. I have been trying to find it for a while. The runway show featured several variations of the design, including a version with faux fur trims 😬. Also seen here: The seasonal campaign with fantastic photos by #ElfieSemotan, scanned from THE FACE magazine’s July and December 1991 issues. #endyma #helmutlangarchive #helmutlangvintage #runway #thefacemagazine (at ENDYMA) https://www.instagram.com/p/CoVJ4lrtrTT/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

A leather bomber jacket by Kostas Murkudis for New York Industrie from around 2002. The design is based on the Luftwaffe's (German Air Forces) classic pilot jacket, with its distinctive high collar and zipped pockets. Its structured lamb leather shell has an antique polished finish which has developed pronounced contrasts from wear reminiscent of denim fading. The jacket is beautifully finished with a padded interior and heavy brass hardware. #endyma #kostasmurkudis #newyorkindustrie #bomberjacket (at ENDYMA) https://www.instagram.com/p/CoIALCCN2ah/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

Helmut Lang’s S/S 1993 collection featured several varations of the iconic ‘sacred heart’ print, as seen in our previous post. The collection definitely had a thing for religious iconography. Also seen here: The seasonal campaign by #DagmarSucrowBarthel with photos by #ElfieSemotan, scanned from i-D magazine’s February and March 1993 issues, as well as a fantastic editorial photo from i-D June 1993. Thanks to everyone who sent us these scans (I forgot, please comment to be credited) #endyma #helmutlang #helmulangarchive #helmutlangvintage #vintagehelmutlang (at ENDYMA) https://www.instagram.com/p/CmhIIxZNZ4Q/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

Here’s a garment you don’t see everyday: a rare T-shirt designed by Helmut Lang for @i_d magazine’s August 1992 issue. Available only by mail order, the T-shirt features the iconic ’sacred heart’ print that was part of HL’s S/S 1993 collection. The back has a subtle logo alluding to the designer’s signature backstage prints. Other designers that were part of this range were Martin Margiela and Helen Storey. The T-shirt is a single-stitch, heavyweight poly-cotton blank produced by Hanes in the USA. Its cost was £15.95 pounds shipped within the UK, and £16.45 to Europe. How’s that for inflation? Pictured here: the T-shirt from our archive, scans of i-D Magazine (thanks @eoryen), and a photo of Edward in Bristol, 1992 by Wolfgang Tillmans wearing the T (thanks @louismoon). #endyma #helmutlang #helmutlangarchive #helmutlangvintage #inflation (at ENDYMA) https://www.instagram.com/p/CmZOFU1tMrA/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

vibe check 2022 @ottolinger1000 #endyma #endymaarchive #futurearchive (at ENDYMA) https://www.instagram.com/p/Cln0jOwtuJE/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

New in: A winter suit by #DexterWong from the mid 1990s, crafted from thick woven synthetic material featuring a visually arresting op art pattern. The material feels more suitable for upholstering the seats of a 1970s bus than suiting, and looking at it for a few seconds makes you see things. 👁 The silhouette of the jacket is narrow with exaggerated shoulders. The matching trousers are five-pocket jeans with classic hardware and Dexter Wong's signature silver label on the back. 🍟 #endyma #endymaarchive #opart (at ENDYMA) https://www.instagram.com/p/CldhtRHtMzP/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

New in: #dsquared SS 2005. A tailored jacket in vintage cotton inspired by the look of a jacket worn inside-out. Contrasting bindings, pinstripe linings and military-inspired finishing bring about the detail-oriented approach that characterises Dean & Dan's work. While their runway shows were always amusing, they often didn't do the clothes justice in my opinion. Note the electric blue hand-finishing on the lapels. 💙 #endyma #endymaarchive (at ENDYMA) https://www.instagram.com/p/Ck5kL-7tH1_/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

Part of our archive. This rare #HelmutLang lingerie piece from 1995 might be the earliest example of the designer's signature 'skeleton' garments. Helmut Lang often deconstructed classic silhouettes by reducing them to their primary outlines. Fitting somewhere between a bra and a holster, this piece highlights the body in a subtle yet unconventional way that has become synonymous with the label's 1990s output. Its linear panels, crafted from delicate hosiery nylon and elastic mesh, are a precursor to the stripe decorations seen on many Helmut Lang collections that followed. Note the hand-sewn engraved metal branding. 💙 #endyma #helmutlangarchive #helmutlangvintage #vintagehelmutlang (at ENDYMA) https://www.instagram.com/p/Cik5ghQtwM-/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

Thanks to everyone who visited our #helmutlangarchive opening at @andreasmurkudis last weekend! ENDYMA's installation is on until September 10, and features the biggest selection of vintage Helmut Lang that's been made available for sale since the label's conclusion in 2005. 🍭 (at ANDREAS MURKUDIS) https://www.instagram.com/p/Chml4lstE0g/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

Some examples of rare #vintagehelmutlang accessories that will be part of our Helmut Lang Archive installation at @andreasmurkudis, opening next Saturday at 12:00. In order of appearance: 🍅 Double-lens titanium sunglasses, 1999 🍆 Cotton sport socks in original flat packaging, Helmut Lang late 1990s 🥕 Belts in rubber (2005), polypropylene (2002) and leather with metal links (1998) (at ANDREAS MURKUDIS) https://www.instagram.com/p/ChQKLkvNkLJ/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

Hey everyone, next Saturday we will be showcasing about 300 pieces from our Helmut Lang archive at @andreasmurkudis in Berlin. There will be everything from jeans to bags to underwear - the biggest #vintagehelmutlang sale ever. And there will also be an opening with drinksss. ⚘ Come say hi! For the Helmut nerds our there: a ridic amount of work has been done to make this an exhibition like no other. Even if you don't wanna shop, it will be worth coming by just to read, look at cool stuff and hang out. Opening: Saturday, August 20 at 12:00. Potsdamer Str. 81 For those that can't make it on the day, the installation will be on until September 10. (at ANDREAS MURKUDIS) https://www.instagram.com/p/ChNkiK_t4lC/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

peak summer in the city vibes courtesy of Helmut Lang's impeccable S/S 1992 collection.. part 1 🍭 #endyma #helmutlang #helmulangarchive #helmutlangvintage #vintagehelmutlang (at ENDYMA) https://www.instagram.com/p/CgmeZLkNsEB/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

thanks to everyone that came to today's Archive Market at @sohohouseberlin! we had too much fun. slide to see the cool Dsquared SS 2003 jacket that was in yesterday's post. and a huge thanks to the mastermind @erendemirel for making it happen 🍭 #endyma #endymaarchive (at Soho House Berlin) https://www.instagram.com/p/Cf10pQ8tYWG/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

For those of us that take their eating habits seriously enough, here's the Maison Martin Margiela 'Vegetarian' muscle tank from S/S 2007. 🥕🍅🍆 Note the quirky little details that finish this piece: a slightly U shaped neckline, the rolled fabric border going around the armholes, the Margiela stitches. It's fashion darling! #endyma #maisonmartinmargiela #margielaarchive #vegetarian (at ENDYMA) https://www.instagram.com/p/Cfudw8AttWS/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=