In the Corseted Days of Yore

Are you ready for more pumpkin?

This perfectly pumpkin stunner is courtesy of Augusta Lundin, who was the first haute couture designer from Sweden to get worldwide acclaim. At the turn of the 20th century she was known for gowns like this, highlighting the more slender silhouette of the Edwardian era but mixing in traditional Swedish embroidery and aesthetics.

This many-layered lovely dates from 1913 and uses silk georgette (a crêpe fabric), lamé, velvet, lace, chiffon, and gold and silver thread embroidery. Really, an absolute work of art in every sense of the word.

I adore the structural aspects--they are particularly lovely toward the hemline. I find some dresses in this period a little samesies, but I like how this one does its own thing.

Evening Dress

1890s-1900s

Portugal

Summer dress by Raudnitz ca. 1910

There's just not enough green velvet these days during the holidays. Fun fact, Santa originally had a host of suit colors: green, tan, red, and white. But through the persistent marketing of the Coca-Cola company, his "official" color became red in the 1880s. Probably the most impactful marketing ploy of all time.

This dress, dating from about 1900, is a perfect example of why I find silk velvet so amazing. Because of all of the tiny, tiny fibers, it both absorbs light and then reflects it depending on the cut of the fibers and the lighting. Here, there doesn't seem to be a lot of sheen, but it absolutely soaks up the light! Paired with all those gorgeous sequins, and wow.

Sequins have also been around for a LOT longer than most people think, since it's just a shiny, flat bead. This particular design is just stunning, and so very Edwardian. Plus, it's GREEN, and y'all already know how I feel about green dresses.

• Dress.

Date: ca. 1900

Evening Dress

1903-1904

Austria

Day dress by Martial et Armand ca. 1904

It's rare, but sometimes I do venture into the 20th century, especially when the words "silk velvet" are in the description.

Here, you have a rather extreme example of the fashionable hobble skirt of the time. Between about 1908 and 1911, this short-lived craze is reputedly from France (Paul Poiret claimed the invention) but no one is exactly sure its origin.

Regardless, hobble skirts were aptly named for they caused a great challenge to the wearer. As stunning as this gown is, knowing, as the description says, it narrows "to the ankles" it seems quite a sacrifice for a fashion trend. But then again, humankind has been doing that for a very, very long time. I think of this as the anti-pannier!

This particular gown has a brilliant colorway with that deep pink against gold, plus the spray of silk flowers on the bodice. And there are rhinestones to add that extra little pizazz. To say nothing of the train!

Wedding Dress

1912

Portugal

Day dress by Poiret ca. 1910

The "Arlesienne" evening dress by the House of Worth (ca. 1912-13)

• Evening dress.

Designer: Henriette Favre

Date: ca. 1903

Culture: French

I have a very soft spot in my heart for sequins. Even though I know they're itchy. Even though I know they fall off. Because, come on. This gown from 1908 is the swooniest LBD I've seen in some time. No surprise, it's from France. It belonged to Mary (Castle) Norton of Cleveland--her father was previously mayor, and she was known for enjoying the good life. Indeed, this gown would still turn heads!

Sequins are surprisingly old in terms of fashion history. They are, in fact, a kind of altered bead. Obviously, nowadays, they're made of plastic, but in days of yore sequins were hammered metal, and go back to the Egyptians at least. Leonardo DaVinci even sketched out a sequin making machine to keep up with the trend in the 15th century. Then, in the 1920s, after the opening of King Tut's tomb, there was another big explosion in the sequin trend.

Evening Dress

House of Drecoll

c.1890