Dress Callot Soeurs, around 1924-1925. Black silk satin, coral silk thread embroidery and gold metallic threads, coral and black silk satin background. Donation from Mrs. Sue, 1964.41.6 © Stanislas Wolf/Palais Galliera/Paris Museums.
Created by the Callot sisters, the eponymous fashion house opened at 24, rue Taitbout in 1895, in a district devoted to luxury and fashion, before being transferred to 9-11, avenue Matignon in 1914. It will be directed by Marie Gerber from 1920 to 1927, then by her sons, and will settle at 37, avenue Montaigne in 1934 before ceasing its activities in 1954.
Very popular with a cosmopolitan clientele, the Callot style gives pride of place to lace, trimmings and orientalism. The Chinese influence, which has permeated the decorative arts for decades, is indeed omnipresent in the fashion of the 1920s and this dress is a brilliant illustration of it. The sobriety of its cut, highlighted by a straight black satin tunic that stands out on a tango orange background - a color then very fashionable - gives it all its elegance. "Chinese embroidery remains in favor of straight tunics in shiny satin," notes the magazine Femina in October 1924. Embroidered symmetrically on the front and back, the decor discreetly takes up this chromatic choice. In an original composition, dragons, fish and clouds unfold around plain black medallions, imposing the image of a screen sheet. This dress, offered by the granddaughter of one of the Callot sisters, comes from her mother's wardrobe, which has several models of the house.
Courtesy Alain Truong
