Dr. Hudson's Medical Aesthetic Blog

Drink  Plenty of Water.

Drinking plenty off waterer is paramount to maintaining  great skin.  Most patients to not consume enough water daily. In Winter, the humidity is low not just outdoors but indoors too, and the skin’s water content will reflect the level of humidity around it.Water is essential in keeping your skin cells full and hydrated  and prevents your skin from  becoming sensitive, tight and chapped. Water also helps flush the body of impurities, if this is not happening effectively then you may be more prone to acne flares and breakouts.

Introduce a serum to your skincare routine.

In winter, your skin requires hydration more so than any other season of the year  in order to remain healthy, plump and comfortable.  Serums tend to be  more concentrated and thinner in formulation and can tackle most skin concerns as they are usually designed to address specific skincare needs. In winter, look for a hydrating serum to integrate in your routine. They are applied after you cleanse, while your skin is still damp and before your moisturize This order helps seal in the serum and lock in moisture. I must emphasize that serums do not replace your usual moisturizer, but are used  to boost the hydrating effects of it.

Wear a SPF sunscreen every day.

Sunscreen should be applied daily throughout the year, and application should not be neglected during  the winter months. Even though UVB rays (which cause us to burn) are not present, skin is still exposed to  UVA rays

Applying SPF daily can slow down aging by 24%.  It’s  such a quick and easy step to add into your skincare regimen which makes a huge impact. If the premature aging (or skin cancer) is not enough to convince you to use SPF Sunscreen, t is still beneficial to use it during winter to reinforce the skin’s protective barrier. You probably associate sun damage with the summer, but the snow actually reflects 80% of the sun’s rays, so it is vital to wear sunscreen during the winter months. 

Avoid hot baths and showers.

This is my recommendation all year round, but it is  especially important in the Winter. Long hot baths and showers disrupt the skin’s  natural skin protective barrier, stripping it of its natural oils and moisture, leaving your skin dry, cracked, inflamed and irritated. A 5–10-minute lukewarm bath or shower is best for this season.

You are what you eat.

Unfortunately, during winter, we tend to ditch the healthy eating and we tend to consume more junk food, sugary treats and alcohol. This causes havoc  for our skin. Refined carbohydrates trigger a surge of insulin and this can lead to hormonal imbalances that can exacerbate breakouts and contribute to  inflammation within the skin. Excess alcohol dehydrates you further in the harsh weather conditions and reduces the blood flow to the skin, leaving you with a dull and unhealthy  appearing complexion.

Three Main Skincare Routine Steps 

To obtain the most benefit out of a daily skincare regimen, no matter what your skin type, you should begin with three simple steps: 

Cleanse 

Treat 

Moisturize 

Cleansing and Moisturizing are obvious components of a good skin care regimen, but what does "treating" involve? Well, in addition to keeping your complexion in great condition, the goal of any good skincare routine is to target problem areas. So, treating means incorporating serums or creams packed full of beneficial skin care ingredients like Vitamin C, retinol, alpha hydroxy acids and others, depending on your skin type and the results you want to see. Adding this middle step in between the cleansing and moisturizing components is really important. It can make a huge difference over time and in the health, appearance and aging of your skin.    

The Importance of Sticking with It 

The results of a good skin care routine require patience and diligence e.. Even the best skincare products take time to work, so do not expect results overnight. If you stick to a consistent, daily routine, you can expect to see some benefits within six to twelve weeks. Three to four months may be required to determine whether your new routine is really effective. 

Here, the best dermatologist-approved daily skincare routine for morning and night, including the basic steps that should be in every at-home regimen for oily, dry combination or acne-prone skin Your Morning Skincare  

Routine Steps 

1. Cleanser 

Facial cleansing should be the first step performed in any skincare regimen, as it clears away impurities and excess oil that can clog pores and dull skin. Cleansing should be gentle. Too many clients cleanse too much or too often or use a cleanser that’s too harsh, which will actually break down your skin’s natural protective barrier. If you have dry or sensitive skin, I suggest cleansing your skin only at night and rinsing your face with water in the morning. 

The best cleansing formulas will gently cleanse your skin without stripping it of healthy oils. A good sulfate- and soap-free cleanser for the face will be pH-balanced and gentle to maintain skin’s barrier without stripping. Here are recommendations for the best facial cleanser depending on your skin type: 

Oily skin: A foaming or gel cleanser will ensure adequate removal of excess oil and dirt from your skin; ingredients like niacinamide and salicylic acid can help regulate and remove excess oil.  

Ane-prone skin: A gentle foaming cleanser with acne-fighting ingredients like salicylic acid, glycolic acid, benzoyl peroxide or sulfur are recommended. 

Dry skin: Look for a cream or balm formula with hydrating ingredients like ceramides, glycerin, hyaluronic acid and botanical oils that will moisterize and not strip skin. . 

Sensitive skin: Try micellar water, an ultra-gentle cleanser that includes tiny particles called micelles that trap impurities and lift them away without drying your skin in the process. 

2. Toner 

Toners are a water-based skin care liquid that's applied to dry skin after face cleansing using fingers, a cotton ball or cloth, and are used before appllying other skincare treatments like serums and moisturizers.  The use of a toner is not required. But applying one on can be a great way to refresh skin, remove any residual debris and balance pH. And if you are looking for additional complexion-purifying and brightening benefits, today's toners are much more advanced compared to the drying alcohol- and astringent-based formulas which were popular in the oast. These are packed with skin-boosting benefits that can leave your complexion glowing. Here are the ingredients you will want to look for, based on your skin type: 

If you have acne-prone skin, look for a toner containing hydroxy acids, including salicylic acid and lactic acid, which increase cellular turnover. 

For dry or sensitive skin, search for a hydrating toner (or its sister, an essence) that is devoid of alcohol and contain mosietrizing  ingredients such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid to soothe.  

For combination skin, I recommend gentle exfoliants, hydration boosters and antioxidants like Vitamin C, vitamin E and green tea, which can combat free radicals and prevent skin damage. 

For oily skin, look for astringents, such as alcohols or witch hazel, that decrease oil and tighten pores. 

3. Serum 

A serum individualized to your skin concerns can both treat and protect, delivering concentrated amounts of powerful ingredients that can address a number of complexion issues, from wrinkles to dark spots. If you possess multiple concerns, you can use several different serum formulas. Be sure to read the labels carefully as some serums are best used in the morning, while others are ideal for nighttime.  

An antioxidant serum which will prevent the formation of free radicals and lessen signs of aging over time is one serum that all cli8ents can benefit from. The gold-standard antioxidant serum is vitamin C. Everyone should use vitamin C, no matter what your age. This antioxidant helps to reverse a lot of the skin damage that is caused by the sun and pollution. For darker skin tones, hyperpigmentation is often a common issue, and using a vitamin C serum in the morning can also help mitigate and minimize dark spots,  

In addition to antioxidant serums, anti-aging serums may be utlized featuring the following ingredients to address wrinkles, fine lines and more: 

Hyaluronic acid serums draw moisture into the skin, combatting dryness and dullness, plus plumping skin. 

Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3 that brightens and evens skin tone, boosts collagen production and calms inflammation. 

Retinoids to stimulate cellular turnover and increases collagen production, reducing wrinkles and hyperpigmentation These are best used at night! As sunlight inactivates Vitamin A. 

Peptides, comprised of amino acids, are the building blocks of collagen and can boost its production which helps to smooth lines and increase skin's firmness. 

4. Eye Cream 

Eye creams differ from face creams because they are formulated specifically for the delicate eye area, which ages more rapidly than the rest of your face — and therefore it falls into the "treat" category, too. If you are looking to address  fine lines, wrinkles, a lack of firmness, dark circles or undereye bags, an eye treatment product is definitely worth it.  

To target dark circles, use niacinamide or vitamin C. For puffiness, use a formula contaning caffeine.  For wrinkles and sagging skin, look for formulas containi9ng peptides and retinol. Lastly, Vitamin K can decrease dark undereye circles and hyaluronic acid can increase hydration.  In order to treat multiple eye area issues, search for a product that contains a combination of these ingredients targeted to your needs. 

When applying in the morning and at night, lightly tap on a formula targeted to your eye-area concerns, using your ring finger (your weakest) to avoid tugging on delicate skin and causing damage. 

5. Moisturizer 

The next step is applying a facial moisturizer These serve to keep your skin soft and hydrated and help strengthen its barrier. If you have oily or acne-prone skin, opt for a lighter moisturizer during the daytime, such as a lotion or gel that will be absorbed quickly.  If your skin is drier, apply a thicker formula, like a cream. Either way, dermatologists recommend moisturizers for all skin types, year-round, since hydrating the skin is crucial for keeping skin looking youthful and healthy. Look for ingredients like ceramides or hyaluronic acid, since these ingredients are effective at maintaining and retaining moisture in the skin.  

Massage moisturizer in as you apply it, which will increase its absorption and effectiveness, plus improve circulation.  

Choose a moisturizing formula, based on your skin type:  

Dry skin: A rich cream packed with emollients, humectants, ceramides and occlusives is key to quenching dryness.  

Oily or acne-prone skin: Look for light lotions or gel-based formulas labeled "non-comedogenic" or "oil-free". 

Sensitive skin: Moisturizers that are hypoallergenic and free of potential irritants, like fragrance and alcohol are recommeded.   

6. Sunscreen 

Sunscreen remains the most important step in any skincare routine, for every skin type and age. Sun exposure is the number one factor skin ages prematurely. The damage is not only cosmetic, no matter what your skin color: People of color can and do develop skin cancer. Plus, if you are treating hyperpigmentation without daily SPF use, it is like taking two steps forward and one step backward. It is important to protect your skin from the sun even if you are spending your days indoors, as UV rays can penetrate through the windows. 

Apply a nickel-sized dollop of broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher face sunscreen as the last step in your morning skincare routine. Apply to the skin of your neck and the backs of your hands, 30 minutes before you head outside. If you want to minimize the steps in your routine to make things easier, you can use a daily moisturizer will SPF instead of applying a moisturizer and SPF separately.  

There are two main types of sunscreen formulas: 

Chemical sunscreens: These  are made with chemical ingredients like avobenzone and homosalate, which absorb the UV light that comes in contact with skin. 

Physical sunscreens:  Referred to as mineral sunscreens, these contain mineral ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which reflect UV light off of skin.  

Some SPF formulas include both chemical and physical ingredients. If you have sensitive skin, dermatologists recommend mineral and pure zinc-oxide sunscreens for sensitive skin. For those with oily skin, choose non-comedogenic, oil-free gel sunscreen formulas. If you have dry skin, avoid spray or gel sunscreens that contain alcohol. People with darker skin tones may prefer chemical sunscreens to avoid the white cast of some physical formulas, though brands have begun to produce mineral formulations without the chalky appearance. 

Your Night Skincare Routine Steps 

Your nighttime routine is the perfect time to ensure your skin is getting as many nutrients and active ingredients as possible, since your skin regenerates and repairs itself while you sleep. You should follow the same basic three steps — cleanse, treat and moisturize — but at night, the routine will look a little bit different.  

1. Cleanser 

First, begin by removing the day's makeup and dirt. Apply a separate makeup remover if needed, to remove any cosmetics. Cleansers are not necessarily designed to dissolve makeup, especially that around the eyed. Follow with the same cleanser as in the morning, working from the inside of the face up, then out and down along the hairline and perimeter to just underneath the chin.   

2. Toner 

If you are opting for a toner, apply it the same way you would in the morning. Because they are liquids, toners should go on before heavier formulas like serums and moisturizers, so these have a chance to be absorbed. 

3. Serum or Treatment 

Nighttime is an ideal time to use products with ingredients that work to slough off dead skin cells or stimulate cell turnover while you sleep, such as alpha hydroxy acids like glycolic acid or retinol. This smooth texture, brighten the skin and minimize pores. Some serums can be used day or night; follow the packaging instructions. If you are treating hyperpigmentation, I suggest alternating between a retinoid and the spot-fading active ingredient hydroquinone. 

4. Eye Cream 

Dab a bit of your face serum or treatment, or a separate eye cream if you around your eyes. You do not have to use a lot, but if you start training your skin to tolerate more active products around the eye, you will see more change and improvement. 

5. Acne Treatment 

If you currently have a blemish, apply an acne treatment at this time. For chronic breakouts, be proactive rather than treating pimples as they arise. If you just treat only the spot, you’ll get acne right next to it if your skin is clogged. The reason why you are getting breakouts is because oil is building up, so be consistent with your regimen to keep pores all over your face clear. If you are using a retinoid, let your skin adjust before trying acne formulas like salicylic acid to prevent redness and drying. 

6. Night Cream 

Moisturizing is especially crucial at night, as it creates a barrier that seals in skin’s natural hydration and any active ingredients to counteract moisture loss that happens while you sleep. But while you can use that non-SPF Day moisturizer at night, using a night-specific formula will have targeted anti-aging benefits, repairing damage which occurs during the day. Whereas regular moisturizers focus on improving the natural moisture barrier of the skin only, night creams contain active ingredients that assist with improving the skin beyond adding moisture. 

7. Face Oil 

The use of a face oil is not a necessary step, but if your skin is still feeling dry, applying a face oil can be a fantastic way to help lock in moisture overnight. A lot of people think that if they have acne or oily skin, they’ll break out with an oil, but it’s not true. It can really help soften skin. For a nourishing boost, apply a face oil as a last step once the rest of your leave-on skincare products dry — just be sure to apply by pressing it into your skin, not rubbing it in. 

Special Tools 

Beyond a basic washcloth, no additional tools ot devices are required for your skincare routine; however, but there some at-home skin tools that can deliver major benefits. Here are a few worth trying: 

Facial cleansing brushes: Consider using one of these handheld tools designed to help you achieve a deeper cleanse. Studies have shown that that clearer, smoother more radiant skin can be achieved after just one week of use. But if you have sensitive skin, eczema or rosacea, you will to use these brushes sparingly. 

LED face masks: Similar to professional LED light therapy, LED masks use visible light to improve skin by reducing bacteria, decreasing inflammation, improving blood flow, and stimulating collagen production. Different light settings target different concerns. For example, blue light helps treat acne by reducing bacteria while red light is typically utilized to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating collagen production. Green light may help address hyperpigmentation. 

Gua sha tools: Somewhat similar to jade rollers, these smooth stones can deliver a mini-facelift effect due to lymphatic facial drainage. Based on an ancient Chinese healing technique, gua sha tools are largely used as more of a massage technique and a self-care tool. Gentle upward strokes on the face and neck are used to quell puffiness and swelling. 

Facial steamers: If you possess oily, acne-prone skin or deep-rooted blackheads, facial steaming twice a week for about fifteen minutes max can help unclog your pores and help your skincare products absorb better.  You may want to steer clear if you have dry skin, sensitive skin, rosacea, or eczema).  

Face Masks  

Face masks can help your skin, especially with long-term use. Incorporate one into an at-home facial regimen once or twice per week by applying it on your clean, dry face, avoiding the delicate tissue surrounding the eyes and mouth unless the mask is made for those areas. Remove it per packaging instructions and follow with other leave-on skincare products as directed or needed. Whether you are opting for a DIY skin treatment, a sheet mask or an overnight mask, you want to make sure you are choosing the right face mask for your particular skin type:  

Oily skin: Use a mask containing ingredients like clay or charcoal, which will absorb oil. 

Dry skin: Look for words on the label like “hydrating,” “moisturizing” or "nourishing" containing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, plant oils and butters. 

Sensitive skin: Seek out anti-inflammatory ingredients such as aloe, chamomile and oatmeal. 

Combination or normal: Look for face masks targeted for your current skin goals or try spot treating using  certain areas with multiple masks.  

Exfoliation 

Facial exfoliation removes the skin's outer layer of dead skin cells in order to make it appear smoother, brighter and clearer.  There are three main types of exfoliations, each with different functions that work best for different skin types, concerns and needs. 

Physical exfoliants: Also referred to as mechanical exfoliators, this category includes washcloths and cleansing brushes as well as face scrubs with abrasive particles that lift away dead skin with friction. These are best for those clients who have dry or sensitive skin. 

Chemical exfoliants: This includes chemical peels and cleansers, containing acids or enzymes like AHAs and BHAs that loosen the bonds between dead skin cells so they can be dislodged. These are best for those clients with mature or acne-prone skin. 

Combo exfoliants: Rinse-off exfoliators consist of that both physical and chemical exfoliating ingredients in one product. These are best for those with oily skin. 

Physical exfoliants can be applied two to three times per week in the morning or evening after cleansing. Chemical exfoliants should be applied once weekly, morning or evening after cleansing for sensitive or dry skin and three times a week maximum for other skin types. Combo exfoliants can be applied weekly up to daily, depending the  specific product's instructions. 

Hyperpigmentation is a common skin care condition in which dark-colored patches or spots develop on the skin resulting from excess melanin production. Examples of hyperpigmentation include brown spots, age spots, sun spots, dark spots, and melasma. Hyperpigmentation makes your skin appear uneven on the surface. This skin issue often interferes with client’s overall self-confidence contributing to issues of low esteem and poor self-image.  Evidence of sun damage and excess pigment result in skin that is less youthful looking. Blotchy brown areas such as Melasma, freckles and sun spots all co0ntribute to an aged appearance.  Eliminating or lightening these dark spots or patches of skin  can subtract years from  the face, neck, chest, arms and hands, resulting in skin with more uniform color 

The major causes of Hyperpigmentation include: 

UV Sun damage 

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation 

Hormonal changes 

Some medical conditions 

Certain medications 

Acne scarring 

Skin trauma 

The most common hyperpigmentation I treat are sunspots (also called lentigines), post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (marks from pimples, bug bites, or prior inflammation), and Melasma. 

  Sun damage 

In most cases, hyperpigmentation is caused by unprotected and prolonged UV sun exposure. The UV rays stimulate the pigment cells i.e., melanocytes to produce melanin which causes hyperpigmentation. 

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation 

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is a reactive hypermelanosis of various skin types, which occurs as a sequela of acne, infection, inflammation, or skin injury. Characterized by brown or black spots in the skin, it tends to be more difficult to treat. Although it tends to be a self-limited and temporary condition, PIH remains a frustrating problem that can have significant psychosocial effects on patients, especially those with darker skin types. Laser therapy is one of the effective treatments for PIH, and various wavelength lasers and light devices have been utilized in PIH therapy. 

Melasma 

Also referred to the mask of pregnancy. Melasma is the most common type of skin pigmentation that usually affects pregnant women. Hormonal changes during pregnancy result in increased melanin production which appear as grey or brown spots on the face. Dermatologists explain that unprotected sun exposure is also a significant cause of melasma. 

Hyperpigmentation can affect all skin types and clients of all ages. There are two classifications, localized or diffuse, meaning it appears in small patches on the skin or as a larger area of altered pigmentation. Treatment requires a bit of effort and often responds to a combination of treatment strategies. While some types of hyperpigmentation, like that which results from having popped a rather large zit, will slowly fade, even this can still take several months. And then there are other types like the kind produced by prolonged sun exposure, that will require much more effort and treat for it to ever fade. 

Most cases of diffuse hyperpigmentation are caused by systemic conditions. These conditions can include Addison's disease, hyperthyroidism, or hemochromatosis. Diffuse hyperpigmentation may also occur due to a medication side effect. 

On the other hand, localized hyperpigmentation tends to represent a direct injury or inflammation to the skin and is the more commonly type seen in dermatology practices.  Anything that causes inflammation in the skin can potentially send a signal to melanocytes, the cells that produce brown melanin pigment as part of an immune response, to produce more melanin. Such inflammation can be caused by UV damage, acne breakouts, harsh chemicals on the skin, and even hormonal fluctuations, such as those which occur during pregnancy or when taking the oral contraceptive pill.  

Hyperpigmentation is multifactorial: There may be genetic, metabolic, hormonal and environmental factors, all acting as triggers, reminding us that there is no single therapy available that will completely cure hyperpigmentation. But with a more holistic, multitherapy approach, you can achieve impressive results. Using a combination of at-home and in-clinic based procedures, a client can achieve an adequate reduction and even complete resolution of their pigmentation issues. The most challenging treatments are those patients with post-inflammatory pigmentation (PIH) and a darker skin type. There may be some residual pigmentation, but it is reduced to a level where self-confidence is restored," which does give us all some hope. 

Unfortunately, some individuals are more prone to hyperpigmentation than others. Melanocyte instability is the main reason one develops hyperpigmentation. These pigment-producing cells that live at the dermal-epidermal junction and basal layers of our skin can become hyperactive if triggered and begin to overproduce melanin, leading to hyperpigmentation and sunspots. The more baseline melanin you have in your skin (i.e., the darker your skin tone, the more at risk you are for developing hyperpigmentation. 

While hyperpigmentation is extremely common and can affect all skin types, it is notoriously difficult to treat. Wearing sunscreen religiously can help prevent it and can keep it from getting worse, but it does not erase the damage once it occurs. . 

Can Hyperpigmentation be Avoided?  

As with most skincare concerns, prevention is key. Eliminate potential problem areas by caring for blemishes and wounds as soon as they soon appear. Wound care is extremely important because areas of healing, such as a scratched bug bite or a popped pimple, are prone to infection and inflammation—making it more likely for hyperpigmentation to occur. Cleansing the skin using a gentle cleanser and refraining from picking at scabs or squeezing an acne zit or scrubbing with a harsh cleanser or facial scrubber is of paramount importance. The most challenging clients are those patients who develop post-inflammatory pigmentation (PIH) and have darker skin types. There may be some residual pigmentation left following treatment, but it is reduced to a level where self-confidence is restored,  

Prevention is Key   

Tips to prevent hyperpigmentation or dark patches from forming include: 

Wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF greater than 30 

Keeping your skin hydrated 

Considering regular glycolic acid peels 

Nourishing your skin with niacinamide 

Stop popping your pimples 

Wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen 

SPF protection from melanocyte-triggering UV damage is integral to the success of your treatment program. Look for a combination of mineral and chemical UV blocking agents such as titanium dioxide and ethyl salicylate to provide adequate broad-spectrum UV protection. Preferred sunscreens are those containing mineral blocks containing micronized zinc and titanium dioxides. Sun exposure is one of the most controllable factors in addressing and treating hyperpigmentation. Patients prone to hyperpigmentation should avoid direct sun exposure, wear hats and other occlusive clothing, and always apply a sunblock of SPF 30 or greater prior to going outside into the sun 

Sunscreen at least SPF 30, will help encourage fading by blocking UV radiation, which typically keeps and produces more pigment in skin. W Broad-spectrum sunscreens containing zinc oxide and titanium dioxide block UVA and UVB rays from penetrating into your skin. One should apply sunscreen every morning — even when it’s cloudy — and reapply as needed throughout the day. Be sure to use sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. In addition, wearing sun-protective clothing and avoiding sun exposure during peak hours between 10 am through 2 pm is vitally important in preventing hyperpigmentation. 

Keep your skin hydrated 

It has been shown in a recent clinical study that topical use of hyaluronic acid helps in skin regeneration and rejuvenation. Another study has elaborated that hyaluronic acid improves cellular turn over which decreased age spots and skin pigmentation. It has been observed that the use of Ceramide and Hyaluronic Acid-based moisturizers help to improve the skin complexion and skin barrier function. 

Consider performing regular glycolic acid peels 

Glycolic acid has been identified as one of the most effective natural treatments to treat melasma. dark patches, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It is the most common type of AHA (alpha-hydroxy acids). AHA's are natural chemical exfoliants that slough off dead cells from trhge outer layer of your skin, ultimately revealing a fresh laye of skin. With the regular use of AHA's based skin care products, patients have observed a noticeable change in their complexion and skin texture. In addition to this, AHA's also provide anti-aging effects to your skin. 

Nourish your skin with niacinamide 

According to a research study published in British Journal of Dermatology, 5% concentration of niacinamide has significantly helped to improve hyperpigmentation in a little under four weeks. Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 which has an incredible impact in diminishing the dark patches and hyperpigmentation from the face. Being a potent source of antioxidants, it helps to give you a youthful glow. Clinical research studies reveal that niacinamide helps reinforce the skin barrier, ultimately preventing premature skin aging. 

Stop popping your pimples 

Popping and scratching pimples can harm your skin in many ways. Touching your face so often can worsen your skin inflammation which finally results in darker patches and acne scars after the pimple has healed completely. Hence, try to keep your hands off your face to prevent hyperpigmentation. 

How To Get Rid of Hyperpigmentation 

In general, treating all hyperpigmentation the same is absolutely the wrong approach, as the different causes and conditions should be treated differently. No matter how diligent you are with sunscreen, sunspots can continue to develop over the years, and while we are able to treat brown spots with chemical peels and lasers, maintenance is key. There are a number, effective treatment options available to treat and manage hyperpigmentation, allowing you to attain the glowing and flawless complexion of your dreams.  

Treatment Options for Hyperpigmentation include: 

Hydroxy acids 

Retinoids 

Chemical peels 

Laser Skin Rejuvenation 

IPL therapy 

Microdermabrasion 

Dermabrasion 

Topical Lightening creams 

Options for each skin tone 

Consulting a dermatologist 

Hydroxy and topical facial acids 

These acids, work by exfoliating or shedding, the top layer of your skin. 

Whenever you exfoliate your skin, new skin cells emerge to take the place of the old ones. This process helps even out your skin tone and makes the skin smoother overall. Many facial acids are available over the counter at beauty supply stores and drugstores. Popular options include: 

alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic, lactic, citric, malic, or tartaric acid 

azelaic acid  

Kojic acid 

salicylic acid  

vitamin C serums (in the form of l-ascorbic acid) e.g., SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic 

Face acids work extremely well in treating mild hyperpigmentation on fairer skin tones. Search for an acid content of 10% or less. Higher concentrations can increase your risk of side effects and are best left to professional peels performed in-office or medical spa setting 

Retinoids 

Derived from vitamin A, retinoids are among some of the oldest OTC topical skin care ingredients used in antoiagy and skin scare. Their small molecular structure allows them to penetrate deep into the skin and treat the layers below your epidermis. Retinol is effective in treating hyperpigmentation when applied at night.  OTC Retinol formulations ranging from 0.5 percent to 1 percent work quite well and function as fabulous multi-taskers.  One should avoid using retinol during the day—as UV rays destabilize it and increase your risk for photosensitivity, I personally recommend using skincare products that include pigment-stabilizing ingredients. Retinoids can come in either a prescription grade or OTC formula. However, OTC versions tend to be weaker and therefore less effective. If you do not see any results after a couple of months, talk with your dermatologist or medical provider about prescribing retinoid tretinoin (Retin-A). OTC retinoids may be safe for all skin tones, but you should double-check with your dermatologist if you have darker skin and plan on using these products long term. 

If you have multiple skin concerns, you may be interested in trying: 

Differin gel: Previously available by prescription only, this retinoid helps to address both acne and hyperpigmentation. 

Chemical peels 

Chemical peels are among the most popular in-office treatments for treating hyperpigmentation and are used in conjunction with topical prescription creams. Chemical peels utilize acids at stronger concentrations to treat the desired area of skin. They reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation by removing the epidermis or top layer of your skin. Deeper peels may also penetrate the middle layer of your skin (dermis) to produce more dramatic results.  

Chemical peels may be effective for clients with 

age spots 

sun damage 

melasma 

blotchy skin  

also work best for fairer skin tones, and they may provide faster results than face acid products. 

Chemical peels enhance and increase the rate of skin cellular renewal—inducing the hyperpigmented skin to be replaced by new skin cells. Reducing the pigment that exists already in the skin is best performed using a combination of in-office chemical peels combined with a regimen of topical retinol and Arbutase. The retinol helps to even out pigment cells while the Arbutase contains hydroxy acids which accelerate and speed skin cellular turnover as well as act asa  brightening agent. Patients may stay on these topicals for extended periods safely. In the case of melasma or PIH, topical treatment options may also include prescription-strength retinoids, azelaic acid, and chemical peels. 

Deeper chemical peels can be performed to lift excess pigment and help with long-term hyperpigmentation. For that, I typically recommend the VI Peel or TCA peel along with stronger resurfacing lasers (such as Fractional, which may have longer downtime but lead to more dramatic results. 

Despite many chemical peels being available over the counter, you might consider getting a professional-grade peel preformed at your dermatologist’s office or reputable medical spa. These are higher in concentration, and they yield quicker, more dramatic and effective results. Due to their strength, in-office peels may also increase your risk for side effects. Discuss with your dermatologist or skin care expert provider about your individual risks. 

Possible risks with both at-home and in-office chemical peels include   

redness 

irritation 

blistering 

infection 

scarring 

allergic reaction 

If you are out in the sun on a regular basis, chemical peels may not be the best treatment option for you. Chemical peels cause your skin to be more photosensitive to the sun’s UV rays. If you do not apply sunscreen and use other UV protection, the sun may worsen your hyperpigmentation. You will need to take extra precautions for at least one week following a chemical peel.   

If you’re looking for a professional-grade peel to use at home, consider Exuviance Performance Peel AP25 At-Home Facial Peel. A glycolic acid peel, this product may be used up to twice a week. It can also help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. If you have a darker skin tone or want a stronger peel, talk with your dermatologist. They can discuss the professional peels which are available and help you decide on the right peel for you. 

Laser Skin Resurfacing  

Lasers are not always the most effective at eliminating hyperpigmentation, but there are certain conditions where lasers are incredibly effective. Light- and laser-based therapies include broad-band light (BBL),  Q-switched lasers,  Nd:Yag lasers, picosecond lasers, and fractionated resurfacing lasers.  At Regenesis, we offer more advanced options for treatments, and can formulate an individualized treatment plan to address and treat your hyperpigmentation issues. The best course of treatments for patients involves the use of medical lasers. Laser Skin Resurfacing treatment uses targeted beams of light to reduce hyperpigmentation. There are two types of lasers: ablative and non-ablative. 

Ablative lasers are the most intense, and they involve removing the entire top layer of your skin and hence require considerable downtime. Non-ablative procedures, on the other hand, target the dermis to promote collagen growth and tightening effects. As only a partial degree of the skin outer layer is removed, there is minimal to no downtime. Ablative lasers are stronger, but they may cause more side effects. Both destroy elements in your skin to ensure that new skin cells grow back tighter and more toned. 

  Ablative lasers may work better for people with fairer skin. For some people, non-ablative versions may cause the skin to darken instead of lightening. Your dermatologist will work with you to assess your discoloration and overall skin tone to select the best option for your skin.  

Melasma is one of the most frustrating conditions for both patients and dermatologists. It is a chronic pigmentary condition caused by a number of factors such as genetics, sun exposure, and hormones from birth control or pregnancy, but melasma tends to recur easily, whether it’s from the sun, heat, and/or hormonal changes. Treatment options must include vigilant sun and heat protection with sunscreen, sun avoidance, antioxidants, as well as over-the-counter brightening topicals—including hydroquinone, vitamin C, kojic acid, niacinamide, azelaic acid, and retinoids—as well as oral medications, namely Tranexamic acid, and a series of in-office procedures such as chemical peels and light laser treatments, like PICO Genesis laser skin treatment. PICO Genesis lasers quickly penetrate the skin and treat hyperpigmented areas to result in more even-toned skin. This process targets pigment below the surface of the skin. Skin penetration by lasers means that users can see results faster and often more predictably. The main advantage of the PICO technology used in PICO Genesis laser is that the laser uses such a fast pulse that it can treat the skin without heating the skin. he energy produced is so quick that the skin does not even have time to heat up. Yet it’s able to ablate or get rid of that pigment This laser is a nonthermal laser and is the laser of choice to treat Melasma. Thermal lasers like IPL therpay can exacerbate and worsen melasma. There is virtually to downtime. Visible Results are evident with fewer sessions There is less post-Treatment redness. Treatment sessions are quick and can be performed in (about twenty minutes. 

Intense pulse light therapy (IPL Photofacials) 

IPL Phototherapy is a type of non-ablative stimulates collagen growth within the dermis. It usually requires multiple sessions. IPL is used for overall pigmentation issues, but flat spots especially respond to this treatment. It may also help reduce the appearance of fine line wrinkles, spider veins, and enlarged pores.  IPL works best for people with fairer skin and is recommended only for patients with Fitzpatrick skin types I to IV.  For those with Fitzpatrick skin types V and VI, I recommend PICO Genesis laser treatment to correct pigment as this laser is safe to use on all skin types. IPL Therapy is not suitable for treating melasma as visible light, and ultraviolet (UV) radiation all trigger and increase melanin production. Melasma treated with IPL often becomes more intense following treatment.  

Microdermabrasion 

Microdermabrasion is an in-office procedure used to treat hyperpigmentation that affects the epidermis only (superficial scarring). 

During the procedure, your dermatologist will use a drill-like handheld tool with a wire brush or another abrasive attachment. The tool is then swiped across your skin to rapidly — but gently — remove the epidermis. 

You may require multiple sessions to achieve your ideal result. It also works well for people with fairer skin. Microdermabrasion works best on superficial scars. Your dermatologist can help you determine whether this treatment is right for you. 

Dermabrasion 

Dermabrasion also involves the removal of  the outer layer of the skin called the epidermis, but its effects continue down to involve part of the skin’s dermis. While dermabrasion is sometimes used to smooth out wrinkles, the procedure has been historically used to address skin texture concerns. These include: 

• Acne scarring  • Age spots  • Chicken pox scars   • Surgical scarring  • Sun damage 

As with microdermabrasion, a dermatologist will use a drill-like handheld tool with a wire brush or other abrasive attachment. They’ll move the tool across your skin to rapidly — but gently — remove your entire epidermis and the top part of your dermis. Dermabrasion may be an effective treatment option if you’re looking to decrease pigmentation at a faster rate than microdermabrasion. 

This treatment tends to work best for those with fairer skin tones. However, further hyperpigmentation because of the procedure can occur with all skin types. The new patches of hyperpigmentation may lighten after about eight weeks. 

Topical Lightening Creams 

Lightening creams are over the counter (OTC) treatments that work with select ingredients to help decrease pigmentation. Many of these creams are available in stronger prescription forms. These are typically applied once or twice daily to help lighten  skin over time. Topical treatments for lightening also come in gel formulations. 

Common ingredients found in effective OTC lightening products include: 

• Licorice extract  • Vitamin B-3 (niacinamide)   • Niacinamide 

The FDA warns that skin lightening products can be dangerous when they contain the potentially harmful ingredients hydroquinone or mercury.  In 2006, the FDA proposed restrictions on products containing the bleaching agent hydroquinone due to reported concerns about potential carcinogenicity and a link to ochronosis. Dermatologists safely prescribe hydroquinone-based creams to help with hyperpigmentation, or dark spots. The FDA banned the sale of over-the-counter hydroquinone products in 2020 and ordered removal from shelves, but many remain on the market online and in shops 

Lightening creams or gels work best for flat pigmented lesions, such as melasma or age spots. These tend to be effective for patches of discoloration on most skin types. OTC products are accessible (and sometimes more affordable) options for treating hyperpigmentation, but these can take longer to achieve results compared to professional treatments. Skin tone can play a role in the intensity and length of hyperpigmentation treatments. Patients with fair, medium, and dark skin tones can use some of the same therapies, but people with darker skin need more time for the treatment to work. 

There isn’t a one-size-fits-all approach to skin resurfacing. Fair skin responds well to most hyperpigmentation treatment. Those with darker skin tones tend to be more resistant and require more time to reach the goal of treatment. For clients with darker skin tones, High beam laser treatments and IPL phototherapy may be unsuitable due to their risk of developing hyperpigmentation. Patients with medium skin tones mat respond well to chemical peels and microdermabrasion.  

Darker skin might benefit from: 

Glycolic acid 

Kojic acid 

OTC lightening creams 

Microdermabrasion 

Lower-strength chemical peels 

Laser treatments, but only when used at lower intensities over a larger number of sessions 

The use of topical treatments generally take longer to achieve visible results. Patience is key with any treatment option. And ultimately, when it comes to treating hyperpigmentation one of the most important tools in your arsenal is simply patience. Reassurance and time are essential elements of a successful treatment program. Patience, diligence, and precautions are the most important things to consider during skin pigmentation treatment. It is believed that hyperpigmentation is a dermatological concern that can't be cured permanently. However, the use of good topical products and laser skin treatments and sun safety measures are imperative to attaining an even skin tone.  

To evaluate if we can treat your pigmentation, please call 504.400.6480 to schedule your complimentary consultation.

What exactly is a TCA peel?  

TCA, which stands for trichloroacetic acid is one of the most commonly used, most studied and tested acid peels in dermatology. TCA is a medium depth peel which has been used with excellent results for over 130 years. Considered the true anti-aging peel, this peel stimulates the production of collagen, glycosaminoglycans and elastin fibers.  Wound healing by TCA leads to deposition of collagen, glycosaminoglycans and elastin fibers in the first few weeks. After that, dermal connective tissue remodeling takes over which may continue for several months. TCA’s superiority comes from its versatility. It can be applied in a single layer as a superficial peel, or it can be layered to deepen penetration. Safety dictates that more layers of a lower % is always the best method. TCA is well tolerated in all skin tones and types with proper preparation for darker* types. It is highly effective for treating hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, fine lines, rough skin, photo damage, flat warts, skin laxity, acne and scarring. Between 6-8 treatments will be administered in bi-weekly/monthly increments. TCA will improve color, freshness, texture, skin tone, and fine wrinkles. It will also improve superficial discoloration, such as age spots. It may improve blotches and can sometimes improve dark circles under your eyes. TCA is a natural second step when other acids stop producing benefits.  It is also the first suggestion dermatologists recommend to you to treat cystic acne issues. 

Considered the "gold standard" of all acids milder than phenol, TCA peels are commonly used now due to their excellent reliability and predictability.  

TCA can be easily adjusted to any depth needed to address common skin issues and imperfections. For example, someone requiring only minor epidermal improvement, a single application of 10%-15% would be effective.  In contrast, if the issue is deeper in the dermis, a stronger solution or more layers can be applied to reach the issue.  

I must emphasize that the number of coats, and or the volume of solution will increase the depth of the peel. The percentage concentration of TCA does not make the peel move deeper. Instead, it is the layers of solution or volume of solution that affects the degree of penetration.

How does TCA work?  

TCA's mechanism if action differs from regular hydroxy acids that just dissolve bonds. Trichloroacetic acid coagulates the dermal and epidermal proteins in the skin, then "shuts down". So, the more solution that is applied, the deeper the acid will penetrate as it seeks protein to neutralize itself. If you apply many layers, TCA will continue to penetrate deeper into the skin. Applying a heavy amount of solution (I.e., face is too wet), the acid will continue to penetrate into the skin until it can neutralize all of the acid. This is why the application should be cautious so that an excessive amount of acid is not applied at any one time.    

The TCA peels performed at Regenesis Medical Spa are certified - pH Guaranteed - % Guaranteed - Have Cool Action and are used in Spas and Dermatologist's Our TCA peels are professional treatments costing up to hundreds of dollars per treatment.  If you are dealing with acne, pigmentation issues, rough skin texture, wrinkles, scars or just want to look refreshed and amazing, start peeling away the years of neglect now.  

TCA Peel Benefits 

A wide variety of chemical peels are available today for use in office. Each acid can treat more than one type of skin issue, but each chemical peel is commonly used for one particular reason.  Considered the "gold standard" of all acids milder than phenol, TCA peels are commonly used now due to their excellent reliability and predictability.  TCA can treat every Fitzpatrick skin type, issue and coloration. It can be used superficially in very mild percentages (10%-20%), and also for medium depth peels (up to 35% *Office only). It can be also used in combination with other acids such as Jessners or applied alone.  

TCA is a highly regarded acid and is perfect for treating the following common issues: 

•Blemishes  •Skin Tone Irregularities  • Skin Texture Issues  •Age Spots - hyperpigmentation - epidermal and some dermal melasma  •Fine Wrinkles  •Scarring and Acne Scars: icepick, rolling 

TCA peel is a great acid to use when treating scars. As you break down the scar tissues and stimulate the growth of replacement tissues. The TCA cross is technique is used to treat acne scarring. You can move things along even faster by incorporating a Copper Peptide into your revision regimen. 

All skin types can benefit from a TCA peel, but patients which are prone to post-inflammatory hyper-pigmentation, or have a naturally darker skin tone, will require special pre-treatment using a melanin inhibitor to prevent and avoid any unintentional color changes in the skin. These are generally Fitzpatrick IV, V, and VI, but any type could potentially have an issue.  

Trichloroacetic (TCA) Acid Peel 

Free Acid Concentrations of7%, 13%, 20% and or 30% are available at Regenesis Medical Spa.  We offer a professional grade "cool-action" (7, 13 and 20) TCA peel with an unbuffered pH of 1.3. TCA is the peel that all other peels are compared to. We find it is easy to use, and very predictable. Most dermatologists prefer to use TCA over other acids due to its effectiveness and dependability. If you are searching for long-lasting, dramatic changes in your skin, a TCA peel is the correct choice for you.  

  *Pretreat with Fade Bright for 2 weeks minimum. 

In treating ethnic skin (Fitzpatrick levels III-VI), I recommend pretreating with a melanin inhibitor or a hydroquinone containing product for a period of 2-3 weeks prior to undergoing your peel. Studies have shown that TCA can be safely used in darker skin types. The safe use of TCA requires longer preconditioning of the skin, a milder strength of acid and strategies used to avoid the development of PIH (Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation). 

Preconditioning includes topical agents such as melanin reducers, retinoids, or hydroxy acids that will thin the stratum corneum and minimize the production of melanin. This accelerates the penetration of the acid into the skin and increases the speed of wound healing - all of which reduce the risk of PIH.  

In a deeper peel (20% or several layers of a 13%) PIH can develop when the pink stage of healing starts to fade. Sunscreens, heat avoidance, steroid creams and melanin inhibitors can help to reverse this quickly. After 2 weeks, a non-inflammatory type of acid peel such as Salicylic Acid may be used to help treat the pigmentation. 

You can choose from one of the four available percentages: 

Level 0 TCA  7% (1.3pH) * Preferred for those clients with extreme skin sensitivity. Great for treating crow feet and loose eye hoods.  

Level 1 TCA 13% (1.3pH) * Perfect for beginning peelers who desire more flaking than achieved by hydroxy acids. **Considered the best choice for ethnic skin. 

Level 2 TCA 20% (1.3pH) * This peel is suitable for those clients who have been consistently undergone application of 4-5 layers of the 13% and who are looking for more aggressive peel.  Recommend working up in layers with extreme caution. *This is the maximum strength recommended for darker tones on body requiring a melanin inhibitor prep 2-3+ weeks.  

Level 3 TCA 30% (1.3pH) * This is strictly used for CROSS or body use only or is diluted for use. This is never a beginner peel.  This percentage is NOT recommended for ethnic skin tones.  

How deep can a TCA peel penetrate into your skin?  

TCA acid peels can penetrate quite deep into the skin and are regarded as a medium depth peel. When applied in multiple layers; TCA peels can penetrate down into the epidermis and even a bit into the upper papillary dermis. This is beneficial for many skin concerns such as hyperpigmentation, fine lines and scarring since they tend to run as deep. Regular hydroxy acids peels cannot penetrate past the Stratum Corneum, so they are considered more of a superficial peel, very superficial peel, or just an exfoliation.  

  TCA Peel Recovery Time 

Recovery time will take approximately one week.  In applying this peel, we are purposely creating a controlled burn to stimulate tissue regeneration. There is a typical process which occurs during healing following application of a TCA peel.  

On the first day of your peel your skin will be smooth, tight, and possibly a little bit pink. I recommend keeping your skin well hydrated with emu oil/hyaluronic or another moisturizing product such as Hydrophor. Within the next 2-3 days, your skin will be tighter and could feel dry, and may appear darker on surface areas. Wrinkles and fine lines may look more prominent as the skin is preparing to come off. Depending on the percentage of acid you applied, and the number of layers, you will begin to see flaking on days 3-4. Flakes will begin on the areas of your face that are in motion such as around the mouth and nose. It will take another 3 days or so for the flaking to stop. It is important to refrain from picking off peeling skin.  

The debate versus dry or moist skin during healing. 

There are conflicting opinions between most Dermatologists as to whether or not you should allow your skin to dry up (I.e., the thought is that it is better for peeling) or you should hydrate it. Most dermatologists and I recommend that your skin always be hydrated. In allowing the skin to become dry, you run the risk of excessive itching or a possible cracking and tearing of the skin with facial movement. Dry skin results in extra tiny flaking. A hydrated face will not only feel more comfortable, but the flaking will peel off in larger, more manageable pieces. Hydrating does not impair or change the effects of a peel.  

What kind of peeling can you expect with a TCA peel? 

The variation in peeling is huge, as TCA is such a customize-able peel. I recommend clients begin with the 13% peel and not move up until you are unsatisfied with a 5-layer peel. That is the ONLY reason to ever move up in strength. *Never get a 20% just because you want to "peel more". It is the layering of the peel that cause the flaking.   

TCA 7% - 1 layer: provides exceptionally light flaking. No frosting at all is observed during the application process. Results in very mild feeling. Tingling or itching may be present during the peel. 

TCA 13% - 1 layer:  results in very mild fllaking. Barely noticeable flakes that are super easy to manage.  No frosting is likely to occur during the application process. This results in very mild peeling. Mild tingling or itching occurs.  

TCA 13% - 2-3 layers:  results in moderate flaking for a period of 3-4 days.  There is no browning. Skin appears slightly crinkly in appearance for a few days. There may be a few spots of frosting occur here and there. Cheeks, forehead, and nose area are possibilities. Tingles at each layer, could feel a bit of stinging depending on sensitivity for a few minutes.  

TCA 13 - 4-5 layers: results in a deeper peel. You should see frosting during this application process and will feel stinging on layers 3-5 that will gradually go away by the end of the 5 minutes between applying layers.  Slight browning should occur in the outermost layers of dead skin. It turns brown because the skin is no longer attached. It is truly "dead" and will peel off.     *If you have undergone an Obaji peel (which consists of 3-5 layers of a 15% or 20% solution) or have been treated with 13% TCA Peel at 5 layers consistently, then you may be ready to move up to single layer of the 20% TCA Solution. Again, caution should be used depending on your Fitzpatrick number. One should always receive a prep with a melanin inhibitor or Hydroquinone product prior to undergoing a high % TCA peel for a minimum of 2 to 2.5 weeks prior to undergoing a peel. This helps avoid or greatly diminish the development of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.  

 It is important to remember that you do not always have to actually peel following a TCA peel to see the benefits. Visible peeling is just a side effect, The actual ‘peeling’ occurs at the cellular level. Many people will find that their flaking is quite minimal after a series of peels.   

TCA Peel Side Effects 

Any chemical peel may result in undesired outcomes. That is why preparing the skin prior to a peel is of paramount importance. To ensure we minimize any complications, it is important to follow the recommended protocol.  

PIH - Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation occurs when the skin becomes inflamed/damaged/wounded. The epidermis stimulates melanin production, and a brown patch will appear after healing. A common example is when a dark spot appears after the inflammation of a pimple is healed. This PIH may take several weeks to months to fade. By applying a broad-spectrum SPF of 30+ daily, a daily antioxidant, Retinol Vitamin A, and a fade gel daily, this outcome can be greatly minimized or avoided entirely.  

Scarring - Scarring after a chemical peel is uncommon. If you are among those that have a history of keloidal scarring, it would be best to avoid peels in general. In these cases, I recommend using a topical acid serum or Retinol instead.  

Redness - A continued state of redness is not common with a lower strength TCA acid peel. This more commonly occurs with a Phenol peel. 

Infection - The TCA itself will not cause an infection, but if you are Herpes simplex positive, the peel irritation itself could result in an activation of a cold sore infection. If you are Herpes simplex prone, I recommend Acyclovir prophylaxis prior to undergoing any chemical peel application. 

Because burning, irritation and itching, stinging sensations are uncomfortable, the TCA peels performed at Regenesis Medical Spa contains a “Cooling-Action” additive that will make this the most comfortable TCA peel you have ever received.  This additive assists in minimizing the 'burning effect' that many clients experience with application of stronger acids. This cooling action allows for a more comfortable peel for clients.  

To see if you might benefit from a TCA peel, please call 504.400.6480 to schedule a complimentary consultation.

Undergoing Laser skin rejuvenating treatments to your skin can produce incredible results; however, the results of your treatments can be reduced by poor habits that negatively impact your skin’s recovery and overall health.  

Not getting enough sleep    

Sleep is integral for our health. Not only does it make us feel refreshed, but it will also make us look younger. A lack of sleep has been shown to bring about wrinkles and fine lines. People develop dark circles when they sleep too little or if they fail to get enough quality sleep due to lifestyle choices like drinking coffee or eating late at night. Both children and adults require between 7-8 hours of quality sleep per night.  

Drinking Too Much Alcohol 

   We all know that excessive drinking can impact the appearance of your skin. Alcohol is a dehydrating agent so the more you drink alcohol, the drier your skin will be. But dryness isn’t the only issue, you can also develop redness and inflammation. As the body metabolizes alcohol in the liver, it produces releases a metabolite called acetaldehyde. This byproduct is toxic to body tissues. In turn, body tissues and skin are dehydrated, which causes premature aging of the skin causing wrinkles   

An Unhealthy Diet  

  A poor diet can contribute to bad skin, as it deprives your body from the necessary nutrients it needs to maintain healthy hair, nails and good-looking skin. A lack of water also leads to a loss of hydro-lipids in your skin cells which leads to a dry and dull-looking complexion, along with wrinkles and fine lines.  

No Exercise  

  The benefits of exercise are not just physical. Regular exercise also improves your appearance. Regular exercise will help you look better by reducing the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines, and eyebags on your face, and increasing your circulation providing you that healthy glow.  

Not Drinking Sufficient Water 

Each new decade brings with it a new set of skin concerns.  This is especially true when you reach the sixth decade. By the time you reach your sixties, your hormones have stabilized. Your skin has normalized and is far more stable. As you enter your sixties, you will no doubt notice age spots becoming more visible, and any existing wrinkles and lines will appear to deepen and become more prominent. In fact, the fine lines and wrinkles, which began during your fifties, become more dramatic, especially if you smoked or sunned significantly in your younger years. Often due to the lack of collagen production within the skin paired with years of unprotected sun exposure, the face is just as prone to aging as the delicate skin around the eyes. As skin ages, it becomes thinner and drier, with reduced collagen production, more disorganized elastin fiber organization, and fewer naturally produced oils. Skin at this age tends to be more fragile. It can be easily damaged, and once injured, it takes a longer time to heal as well.

Sixties can be a difficult time to reduce visible skin aging since hormones are responsible for maintaining the metabolic activity of skin.  With the decrease of estrogen, skin cellular turnover slows down dramatically in comparison to level in your fifties. Estrogen is very involved in maintaining normal functioning of the skin. It directly affects the role of key cells in the skin, like fibroblasts, which produce collagen and elastin, keratinocytes that are closely involved in skin protection for retaining moisture, and melanocytes involved in evenness of skin color. Estrogen is also responsible for maintaining skin plumpness and suppleness. With the extreme lowering of estrogen levels that occurs in the sixties, the skin deflates and wrinkles become more prominent. It develops a wrinkled texture and can appear dull and lifeless. This dryness is caused by the hormonal changes, loss of moisture from the upper layers of the skin and a decrease in intracellular lipids.

Skin texture may appear rougher and may bruise easier than previously. The post-menopausal years hastens the development skin growths on the face and body. These arise as small, rough bumps and over time, they thicken and become larger. These consist of seborrheic keratoses, actinic keratoses, and skin tags, and sebaceous hyperplasia. These become increasingly difficult to hide with make-up and cosmetics.

Microcirculation, the passage of blood throughout the system of small vessels of the body, particularly the capillaries by age sixty, is now less efficient and the skin typically appears dull and faded. In fact, by the time you are seventy-five years old, you have about fifty percent less blood vessels in your face, so with fewer vessels, it means less blood is flowing throughout the skin. Also, from the lack of nutrients and oxygen that comes with blood flow, the skin becomes increasingly thinner. Skin takes on a lighter color lighter color due to decreased circulation, and the results of cumulative sun exposure are most apparent. You may develop dilated superficial blood vessels called telangiectasias in the cheeks, nose, chin, and lower extremities. Sagging skin is a main area of concern for both male and female clients in their sixties. The affects of gravity, which are first noticeable in your late forties, are much more obvious in the sixties, especially in the areas of the eyelids, neck and jawline. Skin tone becomes increasingly lax. Jowls and excess folds of skin are the norm. These changes are all part of the normal aging process, and genetics as well as lifestyle factors play an important role in determining how well you will age. Consequently, the better care you take of your skin in your thirties, forties, and fifties, the better your skin will look in the sixties and beyond.

Yes, it hard to believe this, but Christie Brinkley is 62.  Of course, she has amazing genetics, but she has most obviously taken great care of herself which shows that you can look incredible at any age.

These days, sixty is the new forty, and it is perfectly possible and acceptable to be both gorgeous   and sexy well into in your sixties. No client wants to be old and frumpy, especially when they do not have to be. Unfortunately, we have yet to discover the secret to eternal youth, but you need not grow old gracefully when you can look as young as you feel. Although your skin might appear older, that does not mean that any damage can’t be reversed, whether through the use of quality skin care products, laser skin rejuvenation or the clever use of make-up. You can achieve the complexion you want, whatever your age. Fortunately, there are currently many solutions available that do not involve expensive and invasive surgery and with little to no downtown. Restoring hydration, reducing crepiness and helping to keep wrinkles at bay are all goals attainable by both male and female clients. Clients need to particularly focus on skin tightening and rejuvenation. Here are my recommendations for glowing and beautiful skin in your 60s that will ensure you age gracefully with firmer, more radiant looking skin.

Cleansing is vital

If you have traditionally used soap and water to cleanse your skin or remove makeup, now is the time to change to a milder cleanser. I recommend using a gentle cleanser on your face and neck. I suggest cleansing twice daily. Choose a creamy cleanser that will not strip the skin of its essential oils.

 Moisturizing is essential.  

After menopause, when estrogen is no longer produced, added moisture and skin hydration is crucial. Post-menopausal skin can be extremely dry; however, every client is a little different. If your skin is severely dry, you will likely need a rich moisturizing cream that will nourish skin intensively. . Clients who are less dry instead might benefit from lighter, but still hydrating gels. The choice of moisturizer depends on your particular skin type.  A cream or serum with hyaluronic acid will help plump fine lines and hydrate skin.  Hyaluronic acid is an excellent hydrator since it is capable of holding up to a thousand times its weight in water without being heavy. Clients should moisturize their skin at least twice daily, once in the morning just after bath and once at night before retiring to bed. Make sure you clean your face thoroughly before moisturizing. Ideally, you should choose a moisturizer that contains ingredients like retinol or alpha hydroxyl acids. Since the breakdown of collagen and elastin is more prominent at this age, focus on rich, emollient moisturizers with extra anti-aging and tightening additives to help repair skin. Treat your skin to at-home masks. Since moisture loss is so prevalent during the sixth decade, giving additional care to your skin with a weekly facial will dramatically improve its appearance and glow. Choose cream-based masks like Pure Radiance Mask by Renee Rouleau formulated with reparative oils to give the skin the moisture it needs. Another approach would be using facial oil. Facial oils absorb more easily and deliver their actives more efficiently than a cream. Creamy moisturizers usually contain more water than oil, but when the water evaporates, it may actually have a drying effect. Dr. Obagi of the ZO Skincare line has made a very interesting comment stating that it is possible to overdo the moisturizer with the result that the skin becomes weak and lazy, slack and clogged.

Exfoliation

Skin care for women over sixty should include a lot more exfoliation even if you receiving regular chemical peels. For clients over sixty, I do not advocate using a rough scrub on your face and body, but rather opt for the chemical exfoliation you can obtain from products containing AHAs and BHAs, which leaves your skin looking refreshed without any adverse side effects. Since skin cellular turnover by this stage has slowed down significantly and skin has become thinner and more fragile, I must emphasize that any previous exfoliating treatments might be too abrasive and can potentially damage skin.  Go easy on exfoliation. Depending on the individual, but if the skin is thinning and fragile then it might be time to wean off AHAs such as glycolic acid and retinol. Daily and gentle sloughing of dead cells will be more effective, as well as less damaging to the skin.

To encourage the production of new cells, I suggest opting for a gentle exfoliating mask that you can use once per week to rejuvenate the skin without stripping it of precious moisture. Milder AHAs such as lactic acid and mandelic acid can be used to treat the common signs of aging from uneven pigmentation and fine lines and wrinkles. I do not recommend using alpha hydroxy acids and retinoids together simultaneously.  First, both AHAs and retinoids increase skin exfoliation, which makes your skin more prone to irritation from  the effects of either of these potent agents. Second, retinoids have to undergo hydrolysis to retinal and retinoic acid within the skin to be effective or active. This hydrolysis has been shown to be optimized at a pH of between 4.5 and 5.5. As a result, the use of a more acidic AHA will not allow conversion of retinoids within your skin to be optimized.  Talk with your esthetician or skin care professional to create a plan for your skin that includes only gentle peels performed occasionally.

Always Wear Sunscreen

All the principal signs of aging like wrinkles, fine lines, age spots and sagging skin are the result of the effects of prolonged and unprotected sun exposure. Make sure you use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 or higher that protects your skin against the UVA as well as the UVB rays of the sun. The ultraviolet radiations of the sun can penetrate through the skin surface and cause intrinsic damage. Apart from promoting premature aging and damaging skin tissues, it can also lead to skin cancer. Therefore, the importance of applying sunscreen cannot be undermined at any cost.

Focus Your Efforts on Wrinkle Reduction

In your sixties, preventing the development of wrinkles around your mouth and eyes is a major struggle. You will want to focus your efforts at strengthening and smoothing the wrinkles skin involving the delicate tissue here. This can be accomplished through the use of retinol and regular chemical peels. If you have been accustomed to treating your wrinkles with a topical treatment, you will find that most creams and serums won’t do much for your skin in terms of prevention at this point. To achieve maximum results, your physician will often combine different treatment modalities when appropriate. Neurotoxin injectables such as Botox are used to soften and wrinkles, facial expression lines, forehead lines and crow’s feet.  Botox is a popular choice for smoothing wrinkles and for preventing the development of new ones. Anti-wrinkle injections work by preventing or reducing muscle movement, which causes creasing of the skin. Botox is a fantastic short-term solution for wrinkles and worry lines. Dermal fillers such as Juvederm and Restylane are adept at instantly filling wrinkles and reducing their appearance. Tightening treatments are available which include devices like the Ulthera and Thermage. Consult with your skin care physician to custom tailor your anti-wrinkle regimen and start loving the skin you’re in, from your sixties and beyond.

Dermal Fillers

Dermal fillers offer a fast acting short-term solution for the replenishment of facial volume, cheek enhancement and the reduction of age lines. This is a relatively painless injectable treatment which provides instant results. Dermal fillers can be injected into the deep wrinkles and folds improving their appearance. These can plump and firm the skin by replacing the hyaluronic acid that had decreased with age. Dermal fillers are recommended for deeper lines and the start of nasolabial folds. Restylane, Juvederm, Perlane, Sculptra, Radiesse, Voluma , Fat Fillers, Evolence, Cosmoderm/ Cosmoplast, and Zyderm/ Zyplast are all examples of currently available dermal fillers.

Get Rid of Brown Spots

Fading age spots that have developed following years of sun exposure becomes even more critical. Brown spots are the result of prolonged exposure to sunlight. You can try removing them with a moisturizer that includes skin-lightening ingredients such as  hydroquinone, Vitamin C, but the most effective way to get rid of them is by having  a chemical peel. A Glycolic peel should become a regular treatment, performed a few times a year to keep your skin looking fresh for beauty after age sixty.

Have your moles checked at least once a year. A Dermatologist should evaluate at moles that change in color, shape or size. Skin cancer is very prevalent in the 60’s and beyond.

Serums for 60-somethings

Anti-aging skin care for women over sixty should include products that contain collagen, retinol and antioxidants. You can also help your skin look better by taking supplements such as vitamins A and C, green tea extract and coenzyme Q-10. I also recommend using skin-firming products. Peptides, are known for their ability to strengthen and support aging skin so be sure it’s in your eye cream and serum.

Increase blood flow and circulation in the skin

Skin cells, like all cells that comprise the tissues and organs of the body, depend on adequate circulation to obtain the required oxygen, water, hormones, nutrients, minerals and other trace elements that are vital for the life of the cells. The tissues rely on the circulatory system to remove wastes and toxins. Tired, sluggish skin results when microcapillaries are not supplying enough nutrition and oxygen to the skin. The treatment for under-circulated skin is to attempt to gently stimulate circulation through gentle massage through the use of manual exfoliants and facial scrubs, using stimulating ingredients such as ginseng, peppermint and rosemary, and to encourage the mitochondria of the cell to harness its energy with ingredients like Coenzyme Q10.  Massage in your moisturizer. When applying your moisturizer, massage into the skin using firm circular motions to help increase blood flow.

Chemical peels

Advanced skin peels are ideal for a variety of skin concerns such as uneven skin texture and tone and pigmentation. Regular glycol peels should be an integral component of a sixty year old’s anti-aging skin care regimen.  Peels can reveal brighter, fresher skin as well as reduce fine lines and wrinkles. 

IPL Photofacials can improve and correct the appearance of sun-damaged skin

Hopefully all those years of vigilant sunscreen use and moisturizers will have paid off; however if you have age spots and spots and signs of significant sun damage, you can dramatically improve the appearance through a series of IPL photo facial.

Laser Skin Rejuvenation

Laser is used to even out skin tone, target freckles, sun and age spots. This is achieved through the use of high-grade medical laser equipment, which targets the Melanin in the skin to reduce and lighten pigmentation. Lasers are used for treating rosacea and/ or redness, as well as brown spots and fine lines. (Laser Skin Resurfacing, Fractional Resurfacing, Radiofrequency Rejuvenation and Intense Pulsed Light or IPL) When it comes to lasers, I suggest using more aggressive lasers in your sixties and beyond to help combat the loss of skin volume. When you begin to lose more volume, dermal fillers can be used to restore facial volume and then fractional laser skin treatments can be used to resurface the skin.  For more aggressive treatment, more ablative fractionated resurfacing treatments can be employed such as Fractional C02 ablation. Tightening treatments are available which include devices like the Ulthera and Thermage. Consult with your skin care physician to custom tailor your anti-wrinkle regimen and start loving the skin you’re in, from your sixtiess and beyond.

Get professional facials. They are extremely beneficial for stimulating circulation to get your skin glowing as well as providing intensive moisture to plump up dry skin cells.

Get your beauty rest 

Getting enough sleep is an integral part of any anti-aging skin care regimen. Sufficient sleep is necessary for skin health and vitality. Sleep not only helps rejuvenate both the body and spirit but also helps prevent puffiness and dark circles under eye circles and regulates metabolism. Attempt to get at least eight hours of uninterrupted sleep per night.

 Provide Lip Service 

Don’t forget to protect those sensitive lips. The skin on and around your face tends to be a bit more fragile during this time period- particularly your lips.  Nourish your lips by using a good lip balm that will deliver soft, smooth and hydrated lips.

Consume a Proper Diet

Skin care is as much about what goes in your body as it is about what you apply to the outside. Therefore, unless you nourish your body from within, there is no way you can seek healthy and glowing skin. Make sure you eat a proper diet  comprising of vegetables, fruits and whole grains. Eat a diet rich in almonds, salmon, avocados and olive oil. These all contain healthy fats that keep your skin moist, supple and glowing from inside out. They are much needed in your 60s, since moisture levels drop significantly within the skin.

As you grow older, you should increase the intake of Vitamin A and Vitamin E enriched foods. This is to replenish the natural amounts of vitamins within the body. Vitamin A and Vitamin E promote new cell growth within the skin surface and make it appear more radiant. This is essential for the natural cell regeneration process of the body. So make sure you eat lots of green and yellow vegetables

Drink a Lot of Water

Fats are an intrinsic part of the skin structure and are responsible for the plumpness and firmness. However, with age the fat layer begins to shrink and fails to regenerate. This process further leads to the loss of moisture and causes dryness and wrinkles on the skin. By drinking lots of water, you can replenish the lost moisture levels and hydrate your skin intrinsically.

Cosmetics during your Sixties

Just because you are getting older it doesn’t mean you have to stop enjoying make-up. Skin tends to look duller and more sallow in your sixties, so a lightweight base can help to even  your complexion  and create a more youthful appearance. Avoid foundations or bases that are heavy or full coverage and skip concealer too, as these can all accentuate uneven texture and dry patches. I recommend Try  Jane Iredale Liquid Minerals A Foundation, which contains mineral pigments mixed in an Aloe Vera and a Glycerin-infused gel to hydrate and temporarily plump the skin with each application.

Another way to brighten up a sallow or drained complexion is to counteract dull undertones with a pink or peach blusher. A cream formula gives the most natural flush to the cheeks and doe not  seep into large pores or fine lines.  Just remember to use a light hand to avoid going overboard.

Finally, don’t forget to enhance your eyes. Curling your eyelashes will   give the eye and instant lift  opening up hooded lids.  Try and do this every morning, even if you forego all other make-up. Follow with a neutral toned eye shadow, like the gloMinerals gloEye Shadow in Bamboo, to correct uneven tone and subtly enhance your natural eye color but avoid anything too shimmery as this can exaggerate fine lines and uneven texture on the eyelids.

  Max RF

This treatment modality combines fractional radio frequency and dermal stamping to direct energy into the dermal layer of the skin. Treatments can stimulate the production of collagen and elastin and is ideal for generalized skin tightening which are extremely effective on the neck, jaw and around the eyes. 

Surgical Options

If you have not taken care of your skin regularly on your way to your Sixties, you may need to consider more aggressive measures. Loss of tone and facial sagging are problems why a number of women turn to cosmetic procedures. Plastic surgery options include blepharoplasty, which addresses the tired, excess skin of the eyelids), platysmaplasty, which is performed remove the "turkey gobbler") and brow lifts to reposition drooping brows. It is extremely important to customize treatments to the individual to obtain the most optimal aesthetic results. But, more importantly, you as a patient need to do your homework and find a credentialed surgeon who can guide you in your decision-making.

First, I advise you to review the doctor's credentials and experience. Look for those who are board-certified. Refer to the American Academy of Cosmetic Surgery's website to find certified cosmetic surgeon. Make sure they have performed the procedure many times or, even better, that they instruct other doctors on how to perform the procedures, Also, review patient recommendations and meet with the doctor to get a sense of his or her manner. Remember this is your face and body that we are talking about. Make sure that you feel comfortable with the doctor and that you can voice your concerns openly.

In summary, during your sixties, it is important to follow a specialized skin care regimen that supplements your skin with intensive nourishment and care. I recommend using a mild creamy cleanser on your face and neck, followed by a daily moisturizer and SPF broad-spectrum 30+ sunscreen. Use gentle scrubs to exfoliate. In addition, you should also use skin care products that contain retinoids and anti-oxidants that help the skin regenerate cells. Your anti-aging skin care regimen should include an advanced skin rejuvenation plan that can include monthly microdermabrasion, anti-wrinkle injectables for lines and wrinkles, dermal fillers to restore volume, and more intensive treatments such as IPL photofacials to treat  age spots,, hyperpigmentation and redness and laser skin surfacing procedures using fractional skin rejuvenation treatments. to resurface and tighten the skin. Should you have any additional questions, please contact me at Regencies Medical Spa and Laser Skin Clinic. Call 504-486-4500 to schedule your complimentary consultation. 

During your twenties, you may be able to get away with a minimal skin care regimen, however, once you reach the third decade, your skin requires a little more attention. By your early thirties, skin begins to show the first signs of aging. As a result, skin requires a care regimen that focuses on repair. Once you hit your thirties, your complexion begins to change. It may begin to appear uneven, rough and less radiant. Skin becomes duller.  Dead cells sit around skin’s surface longer robbing its luminosity. The appearance of fine lines and wrinkles around the eye area begin to become evident.  Clients with lighter skin tone  with a history of prolonged sun exposure will show signs of premature aging. By the end of the third decade, you may see an increase in the depth of smile lines. Also, the development of expression lines and crow’s feet  become more prominent during this decade.

As clients proceed into their early thirties, the main skin care concern is the correction and prevention of further sun damage and sun exposure. Sunspots, red dots and other skin pigmentation issues normally appear during the third decade. By  age thirty, many people have pigmentation that's visible with UV photography, if not the naked eye. Clients in their mid thirties should start taking care of fine lines as collagen and elastin levels start to decrease. There are many ways to maintain a healthy, glowing and youthful complexion during this decade. In this installment of my medical aesthetic blog, I will review how.  

It is vital that you become consistent with your basic skin care routine. Protecting your skin from premature aging and sun damage by using sunscreen is crucial. The third decade is the time to begin incorporating anti-aging products into your skin care regimen.  Be sure not to neglect your hands. With thinning skin and loss of moisture, hands begin to appear older and can reveal your true age or worse, add years to it. Neglecting your hands can lead to sunspots, discoloration and dry skin. If you haven’t done so already, add these steps to your routine. Here are a few suggestions.

Cleanse Skin Each Morning and at Night

Be sure to remove makeup before bedtime.  Failure to remove make-up at night will contribute to skin inflammation and irritation. Skin must be allowed to breath and is best able to repair itself when clean and free of cosmetics. As for preventative aging, be sure your cleanser is gentle and sulfate-free so that when you are cleansing, your skin is not being stripped of vital water and moisture.

Exfoliate

Beginning in your thirties, skin cellular turnover and metabolism of your cells begin to slow down. To keep skin acting young, exfoliating your skin becomes vitally important. For those clients in their thirties, it is best to exfoliate deeper within the skin by using an exfoliating serum. Using an exfoliating serum like glycolic, lactic, or salicylate acid every other night will help to dissolve pigmented cells, refine larger pores, and help keep the skin looking smooth, clear, and even toned. You should exfoliate at night rather than during the day using Retinol. Overnight, skin is in renewal mode. Exfoliation should be gentle and never harsh. The point of exfoliation is to remove skin of surface dead cells, which normally fall off by the action of enzymes within the skin. These enzymes require hydration in order to work and dry skin doesn't have sufficient moisture for this to work. Twice a year, I recommend a light chemical peel be performed by an aesthetician. To enhance the results of any at home exfoliation. This will also encourage the production of collagen in the skin.  Be careful not to over do it, as you can easily damage your skin’s moisture barrier, resulting in dryness and irritation. Also, it’s important to slough off dead skin cells from the hands. This helps your hands look younger and smoother and allows moisturizer to penetrate better.

Protect

Use sunscreen with antioxidants religiously. Unprotected skin exposed to sunlight is the number one cause of visible, premature skin aging, which by your early thirties will begin to show. If you haven’t been diligent about wearing sunscreen daily, now is the time to start taking this seriously. Generously applying a moisturizer with sunscreen to the face and neck will dramatically slow down the aging process. Protect skin during the daytime by combining an antioxidant serum or cream with sunblock as these augment each other. Wear a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen with a SPF of at least 30 every single day of the year, including overcast winter days. Ultraviolet rays are stealth agers which remain constant throughout the year. Always apply sunscreen on your hands and other exposed areas, like the neck and chest. You can be incorporating every anti-aging treatment on the market into your skin care regimen, but unless you use daily sunscreen, your skin will still exhibits signs of photo-aging.

Moisturize

Ensure skin is well moisturized and hydrated. It is extremely important to begin to be consistent with this step in your skin care regimen. Apply generous amount of rich body cream twice daily for healthy, hydrated skin. Invest in a rich hand cream with hydrating ingredients, such as glycerin and shea butter. You can also use a thick face cream, hand balm or petroleum jelly. Make sure to apply moisturizer after hand washing to seal in moisture. 

Skin has the propensity to be dryer during your thirties. Facial oil can replenish oil and moisture providing your skin a luminous glow. Rub a drop or two between your fingertips and gently press them over clean skin in the morning, starting with your cheeks, where women typically want to look most radiant. And voilà, you're dewy, not greasy. Synthetic and natural oils absorb quickly since they have a similar composition to your skin's own moisture barrier.

Add powerful anti-aging formulas

Both retinoids and alpha hydroxy acids are excellent topical anti-agers with decades of research to support their effectiveness. Retinoids, derivatives of vitamin A, stimulate  collagen production and increase the skin’s water content, which can prevent sagging. Pharmaceutical grade retinoids also reduce brown spots  and wrinkles and treat acne.  Like retinoids, alpha hydroxy  acids (AHAs) help generate collagen, smooth lines and even out your complexion. Glycolic acid, because it is a smaller molecule can easily  penetrate into the skin.  Also, use an antioxidant like Vitamin C under your sunscreen daily.

Invest in a good eye cream

 Protect and treat the delicate eye area.  A good eye cream is an essential component to add to your nightly skin care regimen. To prevent fine lines from developing under your eyes, begin using a good eye cream at night that contains retinol. Continue protecting your delicate eye area with sunscreen if your eye cream does not contain SPF.  A formula with line-filling peptides will increase healthy cell communication and return cellular activity to a more youthful state. Apply eye cream using your  ring finger, the weakest finger, morning and evening to the orbital bone around the eyes. Use gentle patting motions and make sure to avoid rubbing and tugging the delicate tissue surrounding this area.

Consider investing in a serum

Although they can tend to be pricey, topical serums are powerful tools within your anti-aging arsenal. Good facial serums deliver highly concentrated antioxidants and other skin fortifying ingredients, providing you a  huge return on your investment. These effective ingredients penetrate deeper into the skin compared to regular moisturizers. Also, serums help to produce a supple, smooth and radiant complexion. Vitamins, such as A, C, and E, can be applied topically to the skin in the form of serums. These vitamins help prevent the breakdown of collagen by reducing free radicals created by smoking, drinking, exercise, UV sunlight, and pollution. Vitamins C and E, in particular, keep skin tone even and help lighten discoloration from breakouts, pregnancy, birth control pills, and hormones. I personally endorse using  serums that contain vitamin C and ferulic acid,  that are stored in an amber or aluminum  tube or bottle. SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic is wonderful  serum which combines ferulic acid and 15 percent vitamin C. Remember to always apply serum  before your moisturizer.

 Brighten Up

To get rid of dull lifeless skin, use a glycolic acid peel once or twice a week before bedtime, and then moisturize to prevent irritation. Glycolic acid is one of the most effective exfoliators because it penetrates more deeply than other acids. Chemical peels are a common and simple way to exfoliate and rejuvenate the skin. Chemical peels such as Trichloroacetic acid or TCA reduce the onset of sun damage and stimulate collagen when applied at least once a year.  Phenol peels are reserved for deeply-damaged skin since they are  the strongest chemical peels
. TCA peels can vary in concentration but have  a greater depth of peel compared with AHAs
. Glycolic acid and AHA peels can typically available in lesser-strength concentrations for at-home use. During your thirties, light peels,  glycolic acid and other alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) peels  are wonderful for rejuvenating the skin, and are extremely effective in treating mild to moderate acne. When deciding how often to include chemical peels in your skin regimen, you need to consider the condition of your skin. For example, if your skin is acne-prone, you should consider an in-office chemical peel treatment be performed once a month. If you have severe sun damage, a stronger peel may be a better  solution for you.  

Avoid Using Harsh Acne Products

Although breakouts can still be an issues for clients in their thirties, for most, they are probably occurring less often. Nonetheless, it is essential to reduce the use of harsh topical acne products, which can dry out the skin. The best way to address breakouts in your thirties is to spot treat blemishes. This way, you are only treating areas as needed instead of using harsh acne products all over the face where breakouts are not occurring. If you find your skin is changing in your thirties due to hormonal fluctuations, it is a good idea to consult a professional to discuss how to balance the needs of your skin.

 Consult a Professional

Facials are an important component of any anti-aging skin care regimen. Not only do regular facials soften fine lines, but they also keep clogged pores and blackheads at bay. I recommend clients undergo professional treatments at least four times a year. A good skin-care professional will be quick to notice any changes in skin due to weather, hormones, or stress that need to be addressed. An aesthetician can also determine if you are using the correct products for your particular skin type and if these are working effectively, particularly now that aging is a concern. Skin treatments, which focus on exfoliation and hydration, are particularly beneficial during this decade. Getting chemical peels every few months will also help keep skin smooth and prevent breakouts.

 Drink plenty of water

·I can not emphasize how important it is to drink plenty of water to ensure that  your skin stay hydrated internally. When your skin is dry, it’s less resilient and elastic, making it prone to wrinkling. Experts generally suggest drinking between six and eight 8-ounce glasses of water every day.

 Be conscious of your diet

In your thirties, consuming antioxidant-rich foods, such as berries, spinach, citrus fruits, and avocados, are a great way to deliver nutrients that give your cells protection and address aging internally. I recommend consuming a healthy, colorful high-fiber diet that increases internal alkalinity such as the Mediterranean diet.

In summary, the focus of this decade should be upon preventative aging. A gentle cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen with a SPF of at least 30 are components of an effective skin care regimen. This is time to begin incorporating anti-aging products into your skin care regimen including the use of retinoids and alpha hydroxy acids. Exfoliation is key. I suggest clients in their thirties incorporate the following products in to their anti-aging regimen. Add an eye cream to your morning and evening skin care routine. 
Use an antioxidant, like vitamin C, under your sunscreen daily
. Add a moisture serum under your cream during the morning and evening. Use an acid exfoliator once a week that contains glycolic acid or retinol vitamin A. I advocate having a professional facial performed every two months in addition to microdermabrasion and chemical peels. Chemical peels are extremely effective in maintaining fresh, younger and clearer looking skin.  Devoting a little extra time to skin care and following these tips will help you maintain your skin youthful and healthy  well into in your thirties and beyond.

During your twenties, your skin may appear not to require much help if needed at all. Skin at this age requires minimal products and possesses a healthy, natural glow. Skin is plump, firm and has good elasticity. Skin cellular turnover is fast. The first fine lines begin to appear around the eyes and the mouth by the end of the second decade. Unless you are suffering with acne, chances are you require a minimal skin care regimen. Although a simple skin care regimen may be effective now, it’s extremely important to consider steps toward preventing premature aging. While in your twenties, you need to ask yourself whether you are providing your skin the proper protection and care it needs to prevent the development of premature wrinkles and sun damage. During this decade, it is essential to develop good skin care habits to preserve your youthful glow.

An effective skin care regimen during your twenties consists of using a gentle cleanser, a moisturizing cream and a separate SPF-30 sunscreen formulation daily.  A three step morning and bedtime routine is essential. Step 1 is to  cleanse.  A good facial cleanser is perhaps the best investment you can make in your overall skin care regimen. Cleansers should remove dirt and oil from the skin, but should not be abrasive. I recommend cleansing your skin twice daily, but if you can only manage once, I strongly recommend cleansing in the evening. If your skin feels squeaky clean after cleansing, you are most likely stripping if of necessary natural oils, and it will eventually begin to feel dry, tight, and itchy. Step 2 involves treating with an antioxidant in the morning and either a retinol or glycolic acid at night. Step 3 is protection. Moisturize with SPF in the morning and with a basic moisturizer at night. Choose sunscreen with a broad spectrum SPF. Apply sunscreen after moisturizer and prior to make-up application at least fifteen to thirty minutes before you go out into the sun. A good moisturizer with ingredients like glycerin and hyaluronic acid is essential. Be sure to apply sunscreen religiously and reapply every two hours as needed.

If acne is present, I suggest incorporating an exfoliator that contains  either glycolic acid or salicylic acid twice a week. Also, professional facials with the extraction of blackheads are necessary and should be performed every two months.

If you’re searching for an exfoliation treatment to add to your skin care regimen, I strongly suggest utilizing chemical peels. Chemical peels provide exfoliation, skin rejuvenation and general skin tone improvement and as such are marvelous multi-taskers.

During your twenties and thirties, light peels such as glycolic acid and alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) peels are wonderful for rejuvenating the skin, and also effective in treating mild to moderate acne. In-office peels can be performed as frequently as once a month to treat acne-prone skin, or at many intervals ranging from a few months to six months for photodamaged and aging skin.  Chemical peels work to improve the skin and can provide you with a clear and healthy appearing complexion.

 If I could emphasize only one skin care pearl, it would be that it is essential that you remove your make-up at night. Cosmetics can trap skin-damaging free radicals against your skin promoting the development of premature lines, wrinkles, and crepiness.  Make-up can clog pores and contribute to acne. 

Between the ages of twenty-two and twenty-five, the hormones of puberty begin to level out often resulting in decreased incidence of blemishes and breakouts. However, hormonal fluctuations before and during your menstrual period can stimulate sebaceous glands to produce excess oil, which may contribute to monthly breakouts. It is important to reduce stress and get plenty of sleep at least seven to eight hours at night. Lack of sleep can cause stress that is reflected on the skin via acne flare-ups. Not getting enough sleep causes the adrenals to overproduce cortisol, a steroid that makes sebaceous glands produce more oil.  Stress related acne typically takes the form of inflamed pus filled papules rather than simple whiteheads or blackheads.

During your twenties, it is paramount not to overuse anti-aging skin care products. Preventative aging strategies that include the use of too many highly concentrated products can result in problematic skin. Many anti-aging products like retinol and peptides can increase the metabolism of skin cells. Such ingredients may be too active for younger complexions. Those with oily, combination and breakout prone skin might experience irritations, bumps and clogged pores due to anti-aging products what may be too strong for their skin.

  During your twenties, consider using a skin lightener to fade brown spots. If you are experiencing brown spots or patches of discoloration, this may be use to the effects of birth control pills. The pill contains estrogen, which can stimulate melanin production. Consider using a topical skin lightener to fade and suppress pigment activity. Vitamin C is perhaps the most effective topical skin lightener. When used under sunscreen, a Vitamin C serum can help fade discoloration and encourage brighter, more evenly toned skin. Also, using an exfoliating serum containing glycolic or lactic acids as part of your evening skin care regimen also works to break up and remove unwanted pigment. If you want more dramatic results, consider a series of IPL photo facial treatments.  These can erase blotches and brown spots leaving clearer and luminous skin.  IPL photo facials can also treat and improve the appearance of acne. 

Don’t ignore the role that diet plays in your skin. Consider limiting or reducing certain foods if they could be contributing to your breakouts. Carbohydrate rich foods can cause an increase in insulin levels and acne especially prior to your period.  If you are prone to cystic acne breakouts, consider limiting your dairy intake. Hormones found in foods like milk, cheese, and yogurt may stimulate oil production and fuel the skin’s inflammatory process worsening acne. Eat healthy foods. Vegetables, fruits such as berries, and dark chocolate are excellent sources of antioxidants. Flaxseeds and salmon are rich in omega-3 fatty acids

Use serums and moisturizers to hydrate skin. Increased progesterone levels during your twenties can cause skin to become dehydrated.  Incorporate a water-based serum followed by a moisturizer that contains hyaluronic acid to combat dehydration. When skin is hydrated, cell appears plump and skin has a fresh, radiant glow.  If you are experiencing breakouts, consider spot treatment on individual blemishes, as needed using salicylic acid.

Know your skin type and the appropriate products for your skin.  If you have dry skin, choose skin products, which help to hydrate your skin and retain moisture.  Look specIfically for moisturizers that contain hyaluronic acid and glycerin as these help the skin retain moisture. If you possess oily or acne prone skin, I recommend using skin care products that contain salicylate acid and AHAs to exfoliate the skin and unclog pores. These products are effective in preventing enlarges pores, blackheads and acne. If you ted to have very sensitive skin, I suggest using fragrance free skin care products.

It is paramount to invest in a good eye cream, as eyes tend to show the first signs of aging. Adding a good eye cream to your skin care regimen will prevent wrinkles and reduce the appearance of dark circle and puffy eyes. Consider wearing an eye creme that contains SPF. Using an eye cream that contains caffeine  reduces morning puffiness.  Look for ingredients like antioxidants and retinol to slow down the aging process. Begin using a retinoid to prevent fine lines and wrinkles to combat the signs of premature skin aging.  

 Exercising and hydration are also key elements to keep your skin firm, fresh and radiant looking. Drink six to eight glasses of water to hydrate your skin Lack of moisture and water causes your skin to appear dull and flaky.  Regular exercise is important. Exercise flushes out toxins and enhances blood circulation, resulting in glowing skin. My last recommendation is to quit smoking and limit alcohol intake as both can dehydrate skin and contribute to skin dullness.

Fortunately, it is rather easy to keep skin looking healthy and glowing just by practicing a few good habits regularly. It is never too early or too late to begin being proactive about your skin care. By implementing an effective skin care regimen, investing a little effort now, and through the use of professional treatments, you can ensure your skin remains clearer, more beautiful and younger looking. If you keep keep your skin healthy with a good skin care regimen from a young age you will be ageless.

I hope this guide  for skin care during your twenties has been helpful. Should you have any questions, please schedule a FREE consultation at Regenesis Medical Spa and laser Clinic by call 504-486-4500. Stay tuned for the next installment of  my my medical blog where I will discuss an untagging skin care regimen for those clients in their thirties.  

In this installment of my medical aesthetic blog, I will review the current skin care regimen trend and rage du jour:  the use of facial sheet masks.  If you have yet to apply a facial sheet mask, I strongly suggest you apply one as soon as possible. Sheet masks are a marvelous way to pamper yourself and provide a boost to your skin by hydrating and brightening your facial complexion. This skin-care regimen staple is currently a favorite among many celebrities, and is recommended by many prominent estheticians, and beauty bloggers. Infused with skin fortifying serums and moisturizers, facial sheet masks allow skin-rejuvenating ingredients to absorb more effectively into skin because of the greater skin contact and because the topicals resist evaporation.

Originating in Korea, sheet masks are individually wrapped luxury facials that are super convenient and for the most part, economical, although there are some rather expensive sheets on the market.  Within fifteen to twenty minutes, you can achieve quick results targeting various skin issues such as tone, hydration, firmness and clarity. Sheet masks target by hydrating and lightening the skin. What makes these facial treatments so special is the serum saturated and enriched papers contour to your face locking in the treatment ensuring maximum absorption and effectiveness.

Coming in a one-size-fits-all facial shape, facial sheet masks are typically made out of cotton, natural fibers or cellulose. They are typically saturated with amino acids, vitamins and serums touting skin-rejuvenating benefits. Sheet masks possess holes for the eyes, nose and mouth, and flaps around the sides so that you can adjust it to fit your face exactly. This allows the serum within the sheet mask to stay in contact with your skin for a longer period, therefore aiding absorption optimizing the potential benefits.

Sheet masks are generally applied to clean facial skin for a period of between fifteen to twenty minutes. The effect of the liquid or essence the mask is soaked in, is firstly to cool down your skin. Any liquid will, upon contact with your skin, cool it down as it evaporates, drawing away heat from the skin. You can further enhance this effect by placing the mask in the refrigerator for approximately ten minutes before applying to your skin. But even a non-refrigerated mask will cool your skin. By leaving the sheet on your skin for up to twenty minutes, you will find that your skin will have time to cool and as a result, skin pores will usually close up and contract, giving the appearance of smaller, tighter pores. Sometimes, it’s the formula of the skincare serum or cream that enhances this effect, and sometimes, it’s just the cooling effect of the mask itself. If it were the latter, your skin would usually relax after a couple of hours leading you to believe that “the mask does not work”. By encouraging you to leave it on your skin for at least twenty minutes, you are flooding your skin with the serum or essence in the mask you are using. This effect is beneficial for hydrating and lightening products as only by leaving it on your face can it work best. Also, it is best to lie down during applications because the mask can easly slip off a bit if you are active and are walking around upright. You want it to be fully in contact with your face.

Here are a few key points to remember:

Sheet masks do work. The results are noticeable. However, if you want to see any lasting effects on your skin, you will have to use them regularly at least once or twice a week. Essentially, whether you use or like using sheet masks will be based upon a matter of personal preference. Applying sheet masks can actually be costlier than a cream mask, but if you use it intermittently, it is not all that expensive.

Sheet masks provide many benefits. There are many different types of face sheet masks which claim to do many different things such as calming, soothing, repairing, regenerating and firming-but realistically, I think these are treatments you would tend to use maybe once or twice a week to give your skin moisture  and a nice glow before you attend an important event. Face sheets are probably to pricey  to be used on an everyday basis as part of your regular skin care regimen. Although, if you can afford them, they are a great luxury. In actuality, I do not believe a sheet mask can actually “firm” or “lift”, but it can soften the appearance of fine lines from dehydration, calm down inflammation, refresh tired skin and give your skin more luminosity, even if the effect is only transient.  Also, sheet masks do not treat acne or oiliness. Instead, it is better to use a drying clay mask if you want to improve these particular skin issues. Most importantly, you can always combine masks. If you want to get the maximum hydrating aspects of the sheet mask, perform an exfoliating treatment prior to applying the sheet mask to remove dead skin cells that can impair absorption. An alternative is to apply a clay mask first and follow with the sheet mask.

One mask does not fit all.  Although the size of each mask tends to be universal, the key ingredients contained within each type of face sheet are varied.  Sheet masks are superb for hydrating your skin, providing you with that extra boost of moisture.  Masks containing hyaluronic acid are especially effective at hydrating.  However, those clients with naturally oily or acne-prone skin who use hydrating sheet masks may break out even further.  As such, I recommend always reading the ingredient list and knowing your skin type before choosing a facial sheet mask.

Face sheets are best used to boost hydration. Although face sheets come in many variations that claim to provide different results—lifting, preventing acne, hiding fine lines, you should realistically only rely on them for hydration. Although there are no clinical studies that prove whether or not they penetrate better than or even as well as   topical skin serum, face sheets applied against the skin surface causes a decrease in water evaporation from the skin.

Face sheets are not ideal for Acne-prone skin. Application of facial sheet masks can increase the temperature of your skin, from an average of 89.6 to 98.6 degrees. This temperature spike has its disadvantages. Increasing skin temperature can stimulate and increase the bacteria count on the surface of the skin, further contributing to the formation of acne. If your skin is acne-prone or oily, I strongly suggest testing the sheet on a section of your face, preferably the side of one of your cheeks. Check for the development of new blemishes the next day before proceeding with a full application.

Your choice of sheet mask should be based off of your individual needs. Various social media platforms have touted the benefits of using sheet masks twice daily. While using two masks may be great for variety and addressing different skin issues, the skin does have a limit. Using two sheet masks per day is excessive. After a certain point, there is a diminishing return. Your skin can only absorb so much.  

Face sheets are not a replacement for traditional face masks. Although face sheets are considered face masks, they do not perform like traditional masks. Although saturated with supercharged doses of skin fortifying serums complete with vitamins, amino acids and minerals, face sheets will not exfoliate or cleanse deeply. They also won’t dry out the skin like a clay mask formula.

Face sheets do not replace serums. While many face sheets contain serums in the formula, you do not want to replace your fast-absorbing serum with sheet masks, especially since one mask can range any where from $2 to $200 each. Serums are preferred for everyday use. Face sheets are more of a luxury, used prior to attending a special event or during flying when you are prone to experience a lot of dryness. With daily use, face sheets can become rather expensive. For example, Garnier’s Renew Dark Spot Treatment Mask is less than $3.00 per mask at $16.99 for a pack of six while SK-II’s Facial Treatment Masks is $135.00 for a pack of 10 at $13.50 a mask. Personally, I recommend using a face sheet mask once a week. And since the hydration typically doesn’t last more than one day, they will not completely replace a hydrating serum. I recommend using your serum like you normally would, and think of the face sheet as a special treatment to add a luminous glow.

Remember sheet mask is not a replacement. Sheet masks are made to deliver a supercharged dose of a skin nutrifying ingredient you're lacking. It doesn't perform the same way, say, a clay mask would—it doesn't cleanse or exfoliate. And while many include serums in the formula, you wouldn't want to replace your fast-absorbing serum with sheet masks, especially since one mask can range from $2 to $200 each.

Application can be tricky. Face sheets are one-size-fits-all, but not every face is the same size or even the same shape. To cover all corners of the face, I suggest beginning at one end. Start at the forehead, and line up with the eyes so you do not obtain an air pocket. Pat the mask onto the cheeks, moving down toward the chin. Because face sheets are so slick, it is best to lie down and recline while they work their magic.  

Sheet masks are very convenient. You apply it to your skin, recline for fifteen to twenty minutes and then remove it and discard after it is semi-dry. You are not encouraged to leave it on until it dries because reverse osmosis can occur drawing essential moisture out of your skin instead.  You do not have to rinse your face after using a sheet mask, which enhances the convenience factor. Sheet masks also make wonderful travel companions. It can be easily packed into a travel case and is perfect after a long trip or flight.  Also, since it is not classified as a liquid and any liquid present is quite negligible, you can carry it on board flights and use it on a long flight to arrive with skin looking fresh and invigorated at your destination. Sheet masks have become extremely popular airplane staples because of their convenience and ease of use. Unlike traditional masks that require you to wash your hands and even your hair after application, you can just tap these masks into place while you are on and go. After you remove the sheet, you can even leave the remaining. serum on as your moisturizer for the day.

You don't have to wash it off.  Generally, the recommended time to wear a mask is fifteen to twenty minutes. You could probably leave it on longer, but again, the skin can only absorb so much. That said, you don't have to wash off the residue either. It may feel a little sticky afterward, but the leftover formula, especially those with built-in serums, is meant to be absorbed into the skin. Of course, if you have somewhere to go or don't want to ruin your pillow before bed, feel free to rinse.

Having long been a staple in Asian skin care, there is currently a proliferation of facial sheet masks currently on the market.  Each has been formulated to specifically brighten, hydrate, firm, and refresh skin. They come in a variety of price points.

LOOKING TO BRIGHTEN: When your complexion is looking tired and dull, sheet masks with skin brightening properties particularly those containing Vitamin C serums are a quick solution to improve the appearance. Look for masks that contain vitamin C, usually in the form of citrus extracts. With use over time, these can help reduce hyper pigmentation and fade dark spots giving you a more even skin tone.  Decleor  Aroma White C + Intense Brightening Sheet Mask at $10.80/ sheet, The Face Shop Vitamin C Sheet Mask and Amore Pacific Brightening Masque ($20.00/sheet) are exceptional sheet masks for skin brightening. The Amore Pacific Brightening Masque contains the AmorePacific's exclusive Meladefying Complex™. Following application,  it instantly creates bright, dewy skin. It provides the most intensive melanin-defying treatment. It also strengthens skin's resistance to inflammation and environmental stressors. and reduces existing pigmentation for a brighter, more translucent complexion. The Masque Bar Brightening Sheet Mask at $3.33 per sheet, uses orange extract, licorice root and vitamin C to leave skin instantly more illuminated and brighter as reduce the appearance of dark spots

LOOKING TO FIRM: Adding collagen infused products into your skincare regime is a great way to do firm the skin. Collagen is vital for skin elasticity and the constant renewal of skin cells. There are many facial sheet masks available containing concentrated amounts of collagen. Hanskin Gold Caviar ($4.83/sheet), The Face Shop Collagen ($1.50/sheet), and the Masque Bar Wrinkle Reducing Sheet Mask ( $3.33/sheet )are all wonderful skin firming sheet masks.

LOOKING TO HYDRATE: Keeping skin well hydrated is perhaps the most important thing we can do to improve the appearance of our skin. Look for masks containing hyaluronic acid, which is essentially the key ingredient for hydration. Not only does it deliver water and moisture to the skin, but also it holds it there and stays near the surface where it moisturizes the outer surface layer. The effect is more supple and plumper skin. SK-II Facial Treatment Mask is the recognized leader in the beauty industry. SKII pumps your face full of vitamins, and hydrates delivering baby soft skin.  It’s a definite favorite for use on  long air flights. An instant Anti-Ager, the sheet mask from Hada Labo Tokyo priced at $3.75/ sheet, contains hyaluronic acid and marine-based collagen to smooth out wrinkles and firm skin while hydrating.  A Face Sheet that works overtime, the DHC Alpha-Arbutin White Mask at $4.50/ sheet, does a little of everything. It contains mulberry, serine and peony extracts to moisturize, and alpha-arbutin to brighten skin. And it even has flaps that sit on your eyes to gently treat wrinkles. Whamisa Organic Sea Kelp Facial Sheet Mask at $14.00 /sheet is available on the Korean import site Glowrecipe.com. Made entirely of sticky green sea kelp, it feels as strange as it looks, but once you take it off, you'll have a dewy glow that will last for days. Dr. Jart+ Water Fuse Water –Full Hydrogel sheet masks are a particular favorite currently with supermodels.  They excel as a pre-makeup treatment. This super-hydrating mask restores hydration, elasticity, and bounce to skin. Its unique Hydrogel material locks-in moisture while its trans-dermal technology allows hydrating actives to penetrate at levels two-times greater than a generic moisturizer. Its natural extracts and hyaluronic acid infuse water into dry, rough, or dehydrated skin, helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and signs of aging.

LOOKING TO PURIFY:  With the regular use of cosmetics including powders, foundations, bronzer and blush, skin pores easily become clogged.  As a result, it is crucial to perform a good detox every once and awhile. This can be accomplished using a purifying sheet mask. Ingredients like seaweed, star fruit, lavender, tea tree and witch hazel can help detox troubled and congested skin. While there are a number of different formulas available, the Dr. Jart +Pore-Minimalist Mask  $7.50/sheet is a particular favorite. It contains detoxifying ingredients like Korean charcoal to draw out impurities that clog your pores. My Face Works: I Need to Heal Ultra Soothing Fiber Mask, and Freeman’s Purifying Paper Mask   are excellent purifying masks. However, if it’s a purifying mask, odds are you won’t find many sheet masks in this category. Purifying masks are harsher and usually are peel-off or wash off clay masks, which tend to leave skin slightly dry. You can use a peel off or wash off clay mask and then follow it up with a hydrating mask for maximum benefit. The Karuna Clarifying Face Mask Sheet, a gentle Blemish banisher, priced at  $8.00 /sheet, combines Japanese shiso and ginger to wipe out acne-causing bacteria, and honey to moisturize and calm the skin -- all in one citrusy scented little sheet.

The Holiday season can take a tremendous toll on your skin. Indulging in sugary sweets and rich food accompanied by late night partying particularly on New Year’s Eve can affect your skin making it more prone to developing breakouts. During the busy Holiday season, clients are often overwhelmed with stress, decorating, party planning, and shopping for that perfect gift or holiday outfit. The lack of sleep may only intensify problematic skin.  In this installment of my medical aesthetic blog, I will discuss how to keep your skin looking its’ absolute best during this holiday season and suggest ways to perfect the prettiest, flattering, and most glamorous Holiday make-up.

Colder weather and strong winds promote the development of dry, flaky and dull skin. Counteract this by applying generous amounts of moisturizer and by consuming plenty of water. Moisturizing ensures that your skin stays plump and hydrated. During the winter months, the air becomes cooler and drier, which causes your skin to becomes drier. This is further aggravated by indoor heating, which only further depletes moisture from your skin. I recommend applying an ultra-hydrating moisturizer daily, and repeat with a nourishing night cream in the evening before retiring to bed. Remember dry skin only accentuates fine lines and wrinkles. I suggest drinking at least eight glasses of water daily to keep your skin well hydrated, radiant and healthy. If you find that your skin is really dry, then consider adding a serum to your skin care regimen, particularly at night. Serums are ideal since they usually contain more active ingredients and are able to penetrate further and  deeper into the skin. Most serums are designed to target specific problems such as dullness, dryness, sun damage or aging skin. To make your skin look healthier, I suggest applying topical skin creams, particularly serums containing vitamin C and D  and or creams containing retinol.

It is important to keep your skin clean and moisturized. Before applying your foundation, moisturize your skin using an oil free moisturizer, and then apply a make-up primer.  Unfortunately, a primer alone in itself will not moisturize your skin. Properly moisturizing the skin creates a perfect base in applying your foundation to ensure a flawless and even finish. A great facial primer will help erase fine lines, imperfections and blemishes, helping your make-up to go on more smoothly  and evenly and ensures that it stays put all evening. Jane Iredale makes a fabulous facial primer and skin brightener called Smooth Affair, which you can find at Regenesis Medical Spa and Laser Skin Clinic. Let it be your secret weapon for radiant holiday skin. Before going to bed, always cleanse your skin and remove all traces of make-up. It is vital that you never ever fall asleep wearing make-up for in doing so encourages  the formation of blemishes and breakouts  as well as promotes the premature development of fine lines and wrinkles. For a quick and effective cleansing solution, I recommend purchasing and using a Clarisonic cleansing brush to thoroughly cleanse the skin, remove all traces of make-up, while gently exfoliating all at the same time.

 A glowing complexion is the perfect base for your festive holiday make-up look, and you can easily achieve this by making sure you exfoliate  your skin on a regular basis. You should exfoliate once a week. By exfoliating your skin, you are not only prepping the skin for a smooth foundation application, but you are removing dead skin cells and impurities that can contribute to breakouts. People tend to drink more alcohol during the holidays than at any other time of the year. and this can further contribute to problematic skin. Waking up the next day dehydrated not only affects your body, but your skin as well. Alcohol is known to dehydrate the skin and it negatively impacts vitamin A levels. Vitamin A is recognized as a critical skin antioxidant and it plays an important role in collagen production. Lower levels of  collagen equates with a decrease or loss of the skin’s elasticity. So, avoid drinking too much alcohol. I suggest you try and minimize your alcohol intake and drink more than the recommended eight glasses of water daily.

Acne prone clients will continue to experience blemishes and breakouts, even after following a good skin care regimen. After blemishes or pimples appear, knowing how to get rid of them quickly and effectively will reduce your chances of scarring. Utilizing several pimple-drying techniques will shorten the duration of your blemishes and breakouts. If your skin is oily, I suggest using an over the counter cleanser that contains salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide to begin the drying process. If you are dealing with a tender, inflamed cystic pimple, apply  warm compresses to the area to help facilitate drainage, then apply benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid  cream to the lesion to dry it up. Sometimes placing a small piece of tape on your blemish overnight may help draw out the fluid and infection. Another overnight home remedy for zapping a zit is to dab calamine lotion on the pimple to help dry it out. Aspirin, an anti-inflammatory drug, can also be used for drying out pimples. Place an uncoated aspirin in a small bowl. Crush the aspirin using a spoon and add warm water to form a paste. Apply the paste to the pimple and leave it on for five minutes, then rinse. You should notice reduced redness and swelling following  this treatment.

As a general rule, I don’t recommend squeezing a pimple. While doing this makes you more prone to scarring and skin discolorations, sometimes it may be the only quick means to drain it. If you feel compelled to squeeze, I suggest  you consult your dermatologist for treatment. Your dermatologist may also consider injecting the pimple or cyst with cortisone to hasten the healing process and resolution of the acne pimple.

There are many options available to reducing the appearance of blemishes. To lessen the swelling, some clients report that applying a hemorrhoid cream overnight will do the trick. Applying an ice cube on the spot for a couple of minutes before applying your make-up is another effective means for decreasing the appearance of a blemish. If, despite your best efforts the blemish remains, I suggest treating the pimple with a few drops of Visine to constrict blood vessels. Visine  eye drops, which "gets the red out" of burning eyes also removes the redness from a blemish.  Allow it some time to work and then lightly cover the blemish using a concealer matched to your skin tone. Press the concealer onto the blemish and feather around it. Next, add a bit of powder on a cotton ball and press it on as well. Layering concealer works best to conceal a blemish.  Using a heavy  blob of concealer will only make your blemish appear more obvious, as will choosing a shade of concealer that is too light for your skin tone.

If you’re looking to treat annoying facial issues like blemishes, hyperpigmentation, brown spots or fine lines, then you should avail yourself of one of several non-surgical treatments that are currently available. One of them is an IPL Photofacial, which uses intense pulsed light and infrared energy to gently pulse the skin. The energy from the laser targets the patient’s problem areas where there is increased pigment present offering color correction in addition to improving fine lines as this laser also stimulates collagen production.  While it may take  up to five treatments to achieve optimal results, you can still experience noticeable improvement by having two photofacials performed.  If you are interested in skin tightening, decreasing the size of your pores, and improving the overall texture of your skin, I suggest you schedule a 1540 Fractional Laser skin rejuvenation treatment at Regenesis Medical Spa and Laser Skin Clinic.  This laser skin treatment also helps treat hyperpigmentation such as melasma in addition to stimulating collagen production and will make you holiday ready with radiant looking skin with virtually no downtime.

Though preventive measures may help, the inevitable skin hangover is still bound to occur. More alcohol, combined with richer, usually saltier foods, plus a lot less sleep during the Holiday season can result in a puffy bloated appearance, particularly the day after a full night of holiday cheer. When it comes to puffiness, particularly puffy eyes, cold is the solution and there is no better treatment than the application of cold packs. You only need five to seven minutes to see results. A cold gel-based cooling face mask specifically contoured to the eye area can be extremely effective in reducing facial swelling and puffiness. Even a chilled gel eye mask placed for  five minutes can significantly reduce  the appearance of tired, puffy eyes. Dark circles are unfortunately the downside to a festive holiday season. If you can't pack enough beauty sleep into your busy schedule, be sure you treat dark circles using a brightening and lifting eye cream. For a quick DIY treatment, I suggest soaking a washcloth in equal parts of whole milk and water, then applying the cloth on your face for ten to fifteen minutes. This will soothe an irritated complexion as well as help reduce swelling and bloating. To reduce under eye swelling, compresses made of cooled tea bags can also be used. 

If your skin is in need of a quick fix, then I suggest applying  a nourishing hydrating face mask. For example, the Bio Cellulose Facial Treatment combines three potent ingredients, arbutin, silk amino Acids and Centella Asiatica, and delivers them deep into the skin. After twenty minutes, your complexion looks visibly brighter, more hydrated and plump. SkinCeuticals Biocellulose Restorative Masque is also ideal for treating compromised skin. 

Last but not least, it is important to keep your make up brushes extra clean. The majority of women tend to apply more make-up during the holidays in order to achieve a flawless glamorous or dramatic look. Whether it’s a foundation brush, beauty blender, contouring brush, or eye shadow brush, these must be kept clean. Germs, oil and bacteria accumulate in make up brushes if they are not cleaned and can cause  the formation of dreadful acne breakouts.

Holiday makeup trends this year include pale skin, full eyebrows, long lashes, metallic silver or gold eye shadow, and cat eyeliner. A festive red lip can be very sophisticated and polished. I recommend choosing a blue-red that's neither too glossy nor too matte. The perfect texture has sheen and leaves the lips moist. Be sure to look for a lipstick formula that is long wearing, so you don't leave lipstick remaining on your champagne glass. Ensure your lipstick looks great by properly prepping your lips using a lip liner. The trick is to apply the liner to your whole lip, not just to line the outside of your mouth. This will ensure the color stays put, as well as prevent color from bleeding into any fine lines that exist around your mouth. If you're wearing a pale or nude lip color, then choose a lip liner that's close to your natural lip color or one that is transparent. Lipstick maybe the only makeup you require on your face. Consider skipping eye makeup except for mascara and leave your skin bare for an elegant look.

For a soft, smokey eye, choose a gray pencil instead of black to line and smudge lash lines. This softens the eyes and makes them look less harsh. Glittering eyes are a popular option for many during this year’s Christmas and New Year’s season. Sweep a metallic shadow from your lash line extending to your crease, on your inner corners, and along your bottom lash lines. If you possess a cool skin tone, choose silver; if  your skin tone is warm, opt for gold.  

Consider wearing false eyelashes. Individual false lashes look amazing but they require a lot of practice to master. If you want to boost your lashes prior to a holiday party, I suggest purchasing a set of MAC 33 lashes. Brush on one coat of mascara to blend them and conceal any glue using a black or brown liquid eyeliner. Also, consider having long-term eyelash extensions placed professionally by a make-up artist or licensed cosmetician.  Semi-permanent eyelash extensions will provide you longer, thicker and very natural looking eyelashes.  Since eyelash extensions involve working with semi-permanent glue next to your eyes, it is crucial for the lash technician to be well trained in safety and technique. One particular brand that is currently  receiving a great deal of attention lately is Lash beLong Professional Eyelash Extensions. Lash beLong’s revolutionary new butyl-ester based adhesive, which is safer and costlier to produce than other professional adhesives on the market, will extend your natural eyelashes and draw attention to your eyes for many weeks. Semi-permanent and made from synthetic hair fiber, each lash is applied one by one directly to your own natural lashes. With proper care and touch-up visits, these extensions can last up to sixty to ninety days. They add bulk and fullness, but in a natural way, and the hairs above the iris are longer so your eyes look big and bright.

Glowing skin should be your goal. Although dewy skin is coveted, it can photograph rather oily in photos. Instead, keep the majority of your face matte and strategically place highlighter on the bridge of your nose, cheekbones, and cupid's bow  to achieve a candlelit finish. Before holiday photos, be sure to blot your T-zone using an oil-absorbing blotting paper to remove any excess shine.

Remember to be tasteful regarding the use of sparkle. Many clients may be very tempted to layer on the beauty equivalent of tinsel by dusting their skin with highlighter from head to toe, but resist this urge. Instead, look for body lotions that add a subtle gleam, no glitter, and avoid formulas that can transfer color or shimmer onto your clothes.  Benefit Bathina is an excellent product that will boost your skin's natural radiance. This sheer, glimmering body balm adds a seductive golden-pink sheen to legs and body. Highlighters come in lots of different forms and shades, so choose the best one for your skin type and skin tone. Apply along the tops of your cheekbones, down your nose and to the temples for a subtle, shimmering glow. If you're wearing a strapless or low-cut dress,  apply highlighter along your collarbones for extra emphasis. 

Opt for pale, flawless skin. Remember to go easy on the blush. When temperatures fall, your cheeks naturally turn a rosy hue and a blush can make you look red. Instead, add a hint of warmth by applying a bronzer on the bridge of your nose, along your temples, and cheeks. Sculpt and define your face with the help of a matte bronzer using an angled brush. Apply the bronzer under your cheekbones and near you hairline, to accentuate the natural contours of your face. When choosing a bronzer that works on your skin tone, remember that it should enhance your skin and add a healthy glow, rather than appear looking  like you're faking a tan. Personally, I recommend Guerlain bronzers because they offer a wide selection for a variety of skin tones.

In summary, during the winter season, good skincare is extremely important to ensure that your skin stays radiant and youthful looking. I hope these suggestions are helpful. With a little thought and a good skin care regimen, you too can achieve and maintain flawless and beautiful Holiday skin in addition to perfecting a glamorous and elegant look through the artful application of cosmetics. Lastly, remember to enjoy yourself.  When you're feeling happy and relaxed, your skin always looks its absolute best.