Fish Plants and DIY @diyplantedtanks - Tumblr Blog

hanaayo-deactivated20240614

a sassy boy

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hanaayo-deactivated20240614

a sassy boy

kai-ni

Moving with Fish

Alright I’m gonna make this a separate post since a couple people have messaged me separately wanting to know how to do this safely.

This is gonna be really bad and disorganized since it’s been a while since I’ve written an informative post so whatever here we go.

Step 1, Teardown: You cannot move a fish tank with water in it. You have to tear it down, take all the decor out, and bag the fish. Never try to move a fish tank still full of water, even a little water! It WILL crack. Tank must be empty for transport.

So first step is to bag the fish - you can use actual fish bags or tupperware with air holes poked in the top, though I prefer actual fish bags, double bagged. You can order fish bags that ‘breathe’ online - kordon breather bags or a knockoff are fine. If you trip is short (less than a few hours, like if you’re moving in town) you can ask for fish bags at your local pet store. If it’s longer, go for the breather bags. Those are what fish are shipped in.

Bag fish, then take all the decor out of the tank and pack it separately.

Bag your filter media like you would bag the fish. Treat it like a living thing as well - this is how you keep your cycle over a long trip. Bag the filter media (not the whole filter, just the filter pad or whatever you use as media) and pretend it’s a live thing too. You don’t want those beneficial bacteria dying over the trip - the more of it that lives, the better when you get there. .

As for the tank itself, you can leave the gravel/sand/substrate in, just make sure it has essentially no water in it when you move it.

Step 2, Packing up: Take the fish (who are bagged in bags) and pack them away in something stable, like a cooler (to keep temperatures good) or a cardboard box. Pad them with T-shirts or towels or the like. Wrap fabric around them so it’s dark and it feels safe, and pack them away where they’re stable, won’t roll around, and won’t slosh too much. Seriously old t-shirts work great for this.

Pack the filter media similarly. Load the tank in the car on a flat surface, or it will crack.

Step 3, GO: You are now packed away and ready to travel. If the trip is longer than 12 hours, when you make your stops, change the fish’s water before re-packing them. Have jugs of fish water on hand and re-bag them in fresh, dechlorinated water before continuing on.

When you get there, set up the tank as soon as possible - get it refilled, the filter media back in, and the water running thru the filter and put the fish in. Decor can come later. Remember to acclimate the fish to the water like you would any new water.

@alittlebananaz

I think that covered everything? I’m sure someone can fill in if I forgot anything.

diyplantedtanks

Something I'd like to add in terms of bagging the biological media is that oxygen is WAAAAAAYYYY more important to keeping beneficial bacteria alive than a food source. The main reason why hob and canister filters die within hours to a day is because they run out of dissolved oxygen and die out. Without a food source they essentially become dormant but still alive because there is still oxygen in the water for them to stay alive.

Another thing is that you don't want to add an ammonia source to "keep the cycle going" while bagged in transit for similar reasons you want to fast fish for a couple of days. For fish, it's to prevent ammonia levels rising from their waste. For bacteria, it's so the bacteria don't consume as much oxygen by consuming ammonia and suffocate ultimately causing a crash.

Be sure to have a lot more air in the bag than water (which includes fish as well). There is a neat diy project that involves a plastic bottle, an airline tube, potatoes, and hydrogen peroxide that you can use to make a PURE oxygen aerator for power outages and long distance taransport

#Fishblr #Transporting fish #Beneficial bacteria

hanaayo-deactivated20240614

my new betta has been named Garnet! his colors have changed a lot in 2 weeks

#gf's fish #bettablr #fishblr

kai-ni

Here ya go, ya’ll. Petco’s dollar per gallon thru the end of the month.

alittlebananaz

GUESS WHO’S GETTING A 20 GALLON TANK SET UP. My 2 baby goldfish, Finn and Poe, are far too big for the 10 gallon now (Mostly Poe. For some reason, Finn hasn’t grown much) and will be getting a nicely planted 20 gallon. (They’re fantail goldfish, which stay much smaller than typical ones. Even still, Poe is about 2 inches sans tail)

My room will need remodeled first, but the frogs will be getting an upgrade to an Exoterra Tall Large terrarium too! I’m so excited. >w<

kai-ni

Please go larger! A 40 would still be really cheap with this sale!

Goldfish, even small fantails, really need larger. They shouldn’t have been in a 10 gallon for any period of time - that’s why Finn hasn’t grown much. And a 20 gallon just… isn’t big enough. If you’re going to upgrade, I implore you, go bigger!

My fantail, Atom, tripled in size in the first six months. His body is the size of a tennis ball now and I can’t imagine him in a 20 gallon (he lives in a 60!). They really do grow quickly if given the room and proper nutrition! Please get them a big home!

(Love the names btw omg!!)

alittlebananaz

They were very very small when I first got them (less than an inch). As for the 20gallon, I can always take it back and upgrade but I’m somewhat limited on space. Most of my research said that a 20 gallon would be alright with proper filtration and water changes, as well as being planted. Is that a common thing for aquarist forums?

kai-ni

Yep, they stat out so lil! That was about how big Atom was when I got him. They grow FAST.

Trust me, the 20 is a waste of your money! Go bigger now, they’ll thank you! A 20 just… I promise it’s not big enough long term. Technically it is big enough for ONE goldie with good filtration but… talk to any goldfish keeper that’s done that and they’ll tell you their fish seemed cramped, so they went bigger anyway.

Filtration and water changes doesn’t change the fact they need ROOM to explore and move! It helps with their waste load, sure, but you still gotta consider their activity level and how big they get.

Here’s a page with some great articles on goldfish, including tank setup size (though that page is giving me an error, @goldfishgalaxy ? it looks like it’s just the filtration article with an extra . in it…. do you have the link to the tank size article?) found it here

goldfishgalaxy

A pair of goldfish should always be in a 40gal tank minimum, if you can’t provide that for them you honestly need to think about rehoming them. I’m on mobile so I don’t have the tank size link on hand but I’ll write out the basic size guidelines below:

10 gallon (only suitable as a quarantine/hospital tank and not suitable for longterm housing)

40 gallon (2 goldfish) < This is the minimum size for two goldfish for the majority or entirety of their life.

50 gallon (3 goldfish)

55 gallon (3-4 goldfish depending on the size of the fish and how often you do waterchanges/your filtration/etc)

60 goldfish (4-5 goldfish)

and you see the trend. The reason why I’m not including 20-30gallon tanks is that they are not suitable long term housing, most fish will outgrow them within mere months with proper feeding and filtration. During the DPG sale it would be a waste of your money and time to set up a 20gal only to find that in two months your fish are cramped again and your waterquality is degrading faster. Take it from someone who has grown out tons of goldfish. You’ll thank yourself by starting off with the proper size setup.

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This is my new Gold Dojo! He’s missing a tail fin but I think he was born without one because of how well rounded his tail is. Ima name him Stubbs. Now Thicc finally has another friend!

#fishblr #my pets #my fish #gold dojo loach #Misgurnus anguillicaudatus

anabantoid

Constant Reminder

Because this somehow has to be said every six months….

Corys need schools of 6 or greater. Tetras need schools of 8 or greater. Rasboras need schools of 8 or greater. Schooling fish need schools of 8 or greater. Mollys and guppies need groups, not pairs, not trios, they need groups of 6 or more. Kuhli loaches need groups of 6 or more. Your pleco is not going to fit in your 10, 15 or 20 gallon tank.

I just came home from the lfs to see my ram eggs gone. I think the parents might have eaten them lol. Or they hatched but I don’t see any wrigglers

I've had these two in my tank for less than a week and they've already laid eggs! On an Anubias too! I wasnt really planning breeding these but hey looks like fun!

#Fishblr #German blue ram #Fish breeding #Mikrogeophagus ramirezi #South American cichlids

aquariumsforever

does anyone have experience with this kind of algae in their tank? it’s been growing steadily for a little over a month now and I haven’t had any success trying to get rid of it so far - I’ve shorted my light cycle and stopped dosing ferts, and I tried a bleach dip (though I may have done it wrong) and physically trying to take it off. has anyone had any luck getting rid of this stuff?

diyplantedtanks

It’s hair algae. I don’t exactly remember what species it was but it’s very similar to that of a marimo. There are a few species that eat them and like actually eat them. Amano Shrimp(Caridina multidentata) and Siamese Algae Eaters(Crossocheilus siamensis). Conspecifics of the SAE also eat them but the SAE does it the best.

I’d recommend spot treating it with Seachem Flourish Excel or Hydrogen Peroxide(very low doses harmless in tank depending on size of tank)

aquariumsforever

I think I remember reading about the peroxide treatment once a long time ago and it seemed to be pretty effective - I’ll try that. Thanks!

diyplantedtanks

Looking forwards to the results!

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aquariumsforever

diyplantedtanks

I’d recommend spot treating it with Seachem Flourish Excel or Hydrogen Peroxide(very low doses harmless in tank depending on size of tank)

#aquariumsforever #algae #planted tank #fishblr

aquariumwiki

Zebra pleco (Hypancistrus zebra)

Hypancistrus zebra (also known as Zebra pleco) is a a species of catfish endemic to Brazil where it occurs in the Big Bend area of the Xingu River, a tributary of the Amazon River, and was first described in the early 1990s.[1] It gets its name from its black and white stripes, resembling the colouration of a zebra. This species grows to a length of 6.4 centimetres (2.5 in) SL.This fish was exported from Brazil in great numbers for sale as aquarium fish. However, currently the Brazilian government bans the export of certain Hypancistrus, including H. zebra.

H. zebra is a predator, feeding on small invertebrates such as chironomid-larvae. It is nocturnal, moderately territorial, and prefers plenty of hiding places.

diyplantedtanks

These little guys are freaking awesome! I’d love to keep one someday but that 500$ price tag though...

#zebra pleco #fish

verved

some things to house w/ a betta if you really want to:

1) shrimp. some bettas may decide that shrimp are a good snack though, so i recommend ghost/glass shrimp as they are very inexpensive but just as cute and interesting as any other shrimp species.

2) snails. Again, some bettas will see snails as a snack, so select the larger ones that will be hard to eat. certain snails have more specific needs, so research the species and requirements of any you plan to purchase. zebra snails are a very good choice and they are very pretty. snails also may require supplements if there is not enough calcium in the tank for them. soft shell is a pretty common problem with snails, so keep that in mind.

3) corydoras catfish. corys are a wonderful and peaceful bottom-dwelling fish that add a lot of life to the tank. they do require a minimum of 10-20 gallons however, depending on the species (again, research!). They are a shoaling fish so you will need to buy multiple fish for them to really be happy. 5-7 is a good number for a smaller tank. some species are more difficult to keep, so select the best one for your skill level.

4) Harlequin Rasboras. One of the most peaceful of schooling fish and small enough to house in a ten gallon comfortably. Most people assume that it is the betta that will be aggressive towards other fish but usually it is the opposite. most tetras/barbs are notorious fin-nippers and the flowing fins of a betta fish are irresistible to them. rasboras are very peaceful, lovely fish and get along with bettas quite well. again, a minimum of 5-7 fish is required for them to be happiest. in the event that your betta is aggressive to them, they are fast swimmers and will probably be able to avoid him. having a heavily planted/decorated tank is a good idea for these fish.

when purchasing any fish/invert research thoroughly before buying! every animal has it’s own specific needs, so make sure you know as much as you can about each before purchasing. It is also good to know the temperament of your betta. some bettas couldn’t care less about tank makes but others are very aggressive. it’s hard to know until adding tank mates, so be warned. these are only suggestions.

diyplantedtanks

From prior experience I would like to add some info to this. Ghost shrimp are really hit or miss since many pet stores especially petco and petsmart don't really check what kind of ghost shrimp they get. AFAIK there are two particular species that they get. One is really peaceful and the other is very aggressive. Especially towards resting fish and it will not hesitate to rip fins when a Betta is resting. And as for Corys you must monitor feedings because they will not eat whatever you put in right away and your Betta will attempt to stuff itself full when the corys are out and about scavenging.

#Betta companions #I'll add more and edit the post when I get home later today

bettastudentthanu

Heavily planted tanks seem like a good idea until you need to net a fish

diyplantedtanks

When I had to move a problematic fish I literally had to uproot all my plants, and driftwood cause the little shit kept hiding. She was a Convict too so she was FAST

akettleoffish

Aquarium Plants List

(By no means a complete list. For any suggestions/corrections, please message me. Please research the needs of your particular plant before purchasing) Africa Foreground

Anubias Nana Petite (West Africa)

Dwarf Hairgrass (Elocharis parvula)

Willow Moss (Fontinalis antipyretica) (North Africa)

Midground

Anubias barteri (West Africa)

Anubias gracilis

Anubias augustifolia ‘Afzelii’ (West Africa)

Hairgrass (Eleocharis acicularis)

Nymphaea lotus (East Africa)

Nymphaea rubra (East Africa)

Background

Red Ammannia (ammania gracilis)

Anubias congensis (West Africa)

Aponogeton boivinianus (Madagascar)

Apoogeton longiplumulosus (Northern Madagascar)

Madagascar Lace (Aponogeton madagascariensis) (Madagascar)

Bacopa monnieri (West Africa)

Congo Fern (Bolbitis heudelotii)

Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)

Floating Fern (Ceratopteris cornuta)

African Onion Plant (Crinum natans) (West Africa)

Lagarosiphon major (South Africa)

Nesaea cassicaulis (West Africa)

Nesaea pedicellata (Tanzania, Mozambique)

Potamogeton mascarensis (Madagascar)

Floating

Eichhornia crassipes

Duckweed (Lemna minor)

Riccia (Riccia fluitans)

Salvinia natans (North Africa)

North America Foreground

Dwarf Hairgrass (Elocharis parvula) (Cuba)

Willow Moss (Fontinalis antipyretica)

Dwarf Sagittaria (Sagittaria pusilla) (Eastern North America)

Water Cabbage (Samolus valerandi)

Fissidens fontanus (USA)

Midground

Giant Bacopa (Bacopa caroliniana) (North-Central America)

Water Hedge (Didiplis diandra)

Hairgrass (Eleocharis acicularis)

Pearlweed (Hemianthus micranthemoides) (Cuba, Southeast USA)

Hydrocotyle verticillata (North to Central America)

Scarlet Lobelia (Lobelia cardinalis)

Ludwigia glandulosa (Southern USA)

Banana Plant (Nyphoides aquatica) (Southern USA)

Giant Sagittaria (Sagittaria platyphylla)

Sagittaria subulata (Eastern USA)

Lizard’s Tail (Saururus cernuus)

Dwarf Vallisneria (Vallisneria Americana)

Background

Acmella oppositifoli (Southern USA to Paraguay)

Round Bacopa (Bacopa rotundifolia) (Southern USA)

Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)

Radicans Sword (Echinodorus cordifolius) (North America to Mexico)

Egeria densa

Eleocharis prolifera (Eastern USA)

Elodea Canadensis

Ludwigia brevipes

Ludwigia palustris (USA)

Ludwigia repens (North to Central America)

Lysmichia nummularia

Myriophyllum hippuroides

Myiophylum scabratum (Eastern North America, Cuba)

Shinnersia rivularis (Mexico)

Floating

Water Velvet (Azolla caroliniana)

Eichhornia crassipes

Duckweed (Lemna minor)

Riccia (Riccia fluitans)

South America Foreground

Alternanthera reineckii ‘Lilacina’

Alternanthera reineckii ‘Mini’

Bolivian Sword (Echinodorus bolivianus) (Brazil)

Echinodorus quadricostatus var. xinguensis

Echinodorus tenellus

Lilaeopsis brasiliensis (Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay)

Hemianthus callitrichoides (Central to South America)

Water Cabbage (Samolus valerandi)

Staurogyne Repens (Southern Amazon)

Midground

Amazon Sword (Echinosorus amazonicus) (Brazil)

Black Amazon Sword (Echinodorus horemanii) (Brazil)

Peruvian Sword (Echinodorus parviflorus) (Peru to Bolivia)

Echinodorus opacus

Echinodorus uruguayensis

Hairgrass (Eleocharis acicularis)

Hygrophila guianensis

Background

Acmella oppositifoli (Southern USA to Paraguay)

Aciotis acuminifolia (Lesser Antilles to Brazil, Bolivia)

Alternanthera rosaefolia (Argentina, Paraguay, Brazil)

Althernanthera Aquatica (Brazil, Bolivia, Paraguay)

Giant Cabomba (Cabomba aquatica) (Central to South America)

Green Cabomba (Cabomba caroliniana) (Central to South America)

Red Cabomba (Cabomba piauhyensis) (Central to South America)

Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)

Braodleaved Amazon Sword (Echinodorus bleheri)

Echinodorus grandiflorus (Central to South America)

Echinodorus macrophyllus (Guyana, Brazil)

Echinodorus major (Brazil)

Echinosorus Osiris (Brazil)

Egeria naja (Brazil,Uruguay, Paraguay, Argentina)

Eichhornia azurea

Spadeleaf Plant (Gymnocoronis spilanthoides)

Stargrass (Heteranthera zosterifolia)

Brazillian Pennywort (Hydrocotyle leucocephala)

Micranthemum umbrosum (Central to South America)

Brailian Milfoil (Myriophyllum aquaticum)

Red Myriophyllum (Myriopylum tuberculatum)

Potagmogeto gayii

Spathiphylum wallisii (Columbia) (Semi Aquatic)

Floating

Eichhornia crassipes

Duckweed (Lemna minor)

Amazonian Frogbit (Limomium laevigatum)

Riccia (Riccia fluitans)

Salvinia auriculata (Central to South America)

Salvinia Minima

Asia Foreground

Dwarf Hairgrass

Japanese Rush (Blyxa japonica)

Cryptocoryne walkeri var. lutea (Sri Lanka)

Cryptocoryne siamensis (Thailand)

Cryptocoryne parva (Sri Lanka)

Cryptocoryne willisii (Sri Lanka)

Willow Moss (Fontinalis antipyretica)

Hydrocotyle sibthorpioides

Java Moss

Monosolenium tenerum (India, China)

Pogostemon helferi (Thailand)

Midground

Cryptocoryne albida (Thailand)

Cryptocoryne affinis (Malaysia)

Cryptocoryne beckettii (Sri Lanka)

Cryptocoryne ciliata (Southeast Asia)

Cryptocoryne undulata (India)

Cryptocoryne wendtii (Sri Lanka)

Hairgrass (Eleocharis acicularis)

Java Fern (Microsorium pteropus) (Southeast Asia)

Nymphaea lotus (Southeast Asia)

Nymphaea rubra (Southeast Asia)

Giant Sagittaria (Sagittaria platyphylla) (Southeast Asia)

Vallisneria tortifolia (Southeast Asia)

Cyperus helferi (Southeast Asia)

Background

Ruffled Aponogeton (Aponogeton crispus) (Sri Lanka)

Compact Aponogeton (Aponogeton ulvaceus) (Sri Lanka)

Aponogeton rigidifolius (Sri Lanka)

Aponogeton undulates (India)

Chinese Ivy (Cardamine lyrata) (China, Korea)

Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)

Onion Plant (Crinum thaianum) (Thailand)

Cryptocoryne balansae (Thailand)

Cryptocoryne cordata (Thailand)

Star Rotala (Eusteralis stellata)

Giant Hygrophila (Hygrophila corymbosa) (India)

Water Wisteria (Hygrophila difformis) (India, Thailand, Malaysia)

Hygrophila corymbosa ‘Gracilis’

Hygrophila corymbosa ‘Strigosa’

Hygrophila corymbosa ‘Glabra’

Hygrophila stricta (Thailand, Southeast Asia)

Hygrophila polysperma (India)

Giant Ambulia (Limnophila aquatica) (India, Sri Lanka)

Dwarf Ambulia (Limnophila sessiliflora) (India, Sri Lanka)

Najas indica

Nymphaea stellata (India)

Giant Red Rotala (Rotala macrandra) (India)

Dwarf Rotala (Rotala rotundifolia) (Southeast Asia)

Rotala Wallichii (Southeast Asia)

Vallisneria spirialis

Orchid Lily (Barclaya longifolia) (Southeast Asia)

Floating

Eichhornia crassipes

Duckweed (Lemna minor)

Riccia (Riccia fluitans)

Salvinia natans

Pacifica Foreground

Marsilea hirsute (Australia)

Glossostigma elantinoides (Australia, New Zealand, Tasmania)

Monosolenium tenerum (Japan, Taiwan)

Buce (Bucaphalandra spp.) (Borneo)

Midground

Cryptocoryne moehlmannii (Sumatra)

Cryptocoryne pondtederiifolia (Sumatra, Borneo)

Hairgrass (Eleocharis acicularis)

New Zealand Grassplant (Lilaeopsis novae-zelandiae) (Australia, New Zealand)

Nuphar japonica (Japan)

Ranunculus inundatas (Australia)

Background

Chinese Ivy (Cardamine lyrata) (Japan)

Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)

Star Rotala (Eusteralis stellata) (Australia)

Giant Hygrophila (Hygrophila corymbosa) (Indonesia)

Hygrophila corymbosa ‘Crispa’ (Indonesia)

Dwarf Ambulia (Limnophila sessiliflora) (Indonesia)

Lysmichia nummularia (Japan)

Corkscrew Valisneria (Callisneria asiatica var. biwaensis

Giant Vallisneria (Vallisneria gigantean)

Vallisneria spirialis

Orchid Lily (Barclaya longifolia) (New Guinea)

Floating

Eichhornia crassipes

Duckweed (Lemna minor)

Riccia (Riccia fluitans)

#Good shit #Aquarium plant

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Large, heavily planted tanks

Pros: Fish show natural behaviour, bigger selection of tank appropriate fish, room for bigger schools, looks beautiful, like a piece of nature in your home, stable cycle, water changes can be done less often, etc. etc.

Cons: "I think I have 8 of those because I bought 8, but I never see more than 6 at a time, sooo..."

Mom: No more fish, two tanks is enough for one room

Me: Okay but what if it isnt

#Me #My mom doesn't know that I bought a 125 a couple of weeks ago

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