DirtyBitsAudio

Initially, I was storing these things on a 3x4 Kallax from Ikea. It worked well enough, but, there were a handful of things I didn't like about the original set up: It was hard to light well; it made the toys look cramped; I couldn't adjust the shelves to accommodate the larger toys; it wasn't going to hold everything after all of my June and July purchases came in; Whoarder problems (Hey Que).

I suppose I could just throw them in Rubbermaid bins along with any argument I can make about appreciating the artistry of the items. That would be the most cost saving approach to all of this and my recommendation for anyone looking to store toys, rather than display them.

I approached this project without much of a plan, besides *^~^*ShElVeS fOr My DiCkS*^~^* I'm pretty sure this lack of a plan is apparent in how I explain my process. I regret not taking more process photos.

Things I needed to consider:

My cat loves silicone more than I do and will legitimately ruin it with his dumb, stabby little face. The display needed to be BaxProof.

The ceiling in my office is lower than most due to a bulkhead. This limits the height of the shelves.

I wanted to keep the cost reasonable and approachable.

I wanted a design that would be easy to replicate so it would be easy to add another shelf if need be

So, I decided to wrap some steel shelves in canvas and make a little fort.

Tools:

Sewing machine

Scissors

Grommet Pliers

Craft knife

Lighter

Hammer

Floor space

Supplies:

Steel Storage Shelves from the AmazonBasics store. These come in a variety of sizes and a couple different finishes. They are easy to put together and adjust. Similar style shelves are sold at walmart, home depot, lowes, costco, etc. You can also find them second hand fairly often and they are easy to clean up. Some sets even come with wheels which make it easy to move things around, if that is a concern.

Canvas Drop Cloth. Again, these come in a variety of sizes and weights. A cotton drop cloth can be dyed or painted to suit particular aesthetics, or keep it raw for that little mermaid sail dress look that I went with.

Foam Board. I used (12) 18 x 24 inch sheets for my set up.

Paracord

Zip Ties

Electrical tape

Grommets. I got this set with the pliers. It requires a good deal of hand strength and the finish isn't super clean, but it gets the job done.

LED lights. I wanted my set up bright, so I might have a went a bit overboard with the lights, but I used THESE ONES and they fit the wider shelves perfectly. They get a little warm if they are on for a long time, but they are fine to touch, so, I don't think its an issue.

Heavy Duty Clear Vinyl table cloth.

Thread. I just used 40 wt cotton thread.

Some notes on tools and supplies: The sewing machine and thread are very optional; A glue gun would work as well. A person could replace the paracord with zip ties and forgo the whole laced cord look entirely. If you want to dye the drop cloth, do that before this process; I cannot help you with that part. Please be careful with knives.

Process

1. Build your shelf. It should have instructions in the box. I find a hammer helps if you need to adjust a shelf and its too tight to move. That's the only use for the hammer; It's not very important. I recommend figuring out your shelf height at this point and finalize where you will want them now.

A Process Note: Now would be a good time to figure out how you want to have your lights set up, and install them on the shelf.  I didn't do that. I put the lights on second, and I also repeated a lot of steps unnecessarily, because I was making things up as I went.

Tips for setting up lights: The lights I selected can be chained together, or coupled together. They come with instructions in the box. They do not dim or change colors. I selected a warm white tone. I used black electrical tape to cover the electrical cords and attach them to the shelf unit support poles. I used zip ties to hold the lights in place on the underside of the shelf. Otherwise, they were very easy and straight forward to set up.

2. Lay out your drop cloth on the floor. Try to take out large wrinkles.

3. Lay the shelf down on the drop cloth. This is the first step in wrapping it, and we will be wrapping the shelf a bit like a carpet around a dead body. You want to place the shelf on its side, with it's bottom feet and one side along finished edges, in the corner of the cloth.

4. This is the point when I placed the first run of grommets. I eyeballed all of the grommet placement, so there are no measurements, but, how I placed them (please refer to the instructions on your grommet set for directions on how your set works; you might need a hammer!):

I put a grommet roughly 2 inches from the bottom corner of the canvas a long the finished cloth edge, then I put another grommet at the top of the shelving unit. Both of these were an inch from the finished edge of the cloth.

Another grommet is placed about an inch under that top grommet, 1 inch from the finished edge.

At that point, I started eyeballing the halfway point between the grommets at the very bottom of the shelving unit and the second grommet from the top. A grommet goes in the middle of that distance, 1 inch from the finished edge.

Then, a grommet goes in the middle of the distance from the bottom grommet to the middle grommet.

And then, between the middle grommet and the upper grommets.

I just kept putting grommets at halfway points until I thought I had enough. They are probably not exactly a perfect distance apart, but it doesn't really matter to much to be honest. You could put grommets every inch if you like. Or even just cut holes in the canvas and skip the grommets entirely.

5. At this point, I eyeballed out a length of paracord that was roughly three times the height of the shelf. Cut it off, knotted it and carefully melted the ends so it can't fray.

6. I laced the prepared side of the canvas to the front support post of the shelf unit with the paracord. I started at the top of the shelf unit, taking time to ensure the paracord was wrapped around the top shelf to hold up the canvas. I did a simple crisscross around the pole, putting the paracord through the grommets every second crisscross for a consistent look. When you reach a shelf, try to work the paracord around it the best way possible. You might have to undo the cord later, no need to make it perfect right now. Or ever, honestly.

7. Tie the paracord under the bottom shelf. I know you know some good knots. It's important that the paracord is over the top of the top shelf and under the bottom of the bottom shelf. These two points keep the canvas taunt and anchored in one place.

Alternatively, you could use zipties and skip the whole lacing thing entirely.

8. With the one side of the canvas secured to the shelving unit, it's time to roll. Simple, basic step, that I will now overcomplicate with words: flip the shelf on its back, making sure to pull the canvas tight across the back of the shelf, and flip again, so it is laying on its other side, and tighten the canvas again.

9. Take a moment to straighten out the canvas, ensuring the bottom edge of the canvas is even around the bottom of the shelves feet, and pulled taunt across the back and side.

10. Time to cut the canvas to size. I recommend cutting the canvas a bit long so you have extra to fold over and make a nice finished edge.

I used the front support pole of the shelf unit to guide my scissors and I took my time to keep the cut even. You can also mark where the support pole is on the canvas to guide the finished edge fold. I then finished the edges on my sewing machine (this is where you might have to untie all that excellent rope work; I sure did.). Then, I put the canvas back on the shelf unit, retying the one side and repeating the rolling process.

You can also just cut the canvas to size and not finish the edge; It just looks rougher. To finish the edge, you can sew it with a sewing machine, or hot glue it and fold over, OR use the grommets to secure the two layers together.

11. Grommet Time Two, Electric I hope you had fun the first time, cause we get to do it again Boogaloo. See Step 4, apply it to our new cut side of canvas.

12. Repeat Steps 5, 6, and 7 to secure the canvas to the shelving unit support pole.

13. Stand that shelfboi/gurl/nby up and admire your hard work. The top isn't done yet. It should look silly.

14. There should be excess canvas at the top of the shelf. I opted to sew mine into corners, but you can easily fold the fabric into a clean top and hot glue it.

To sew the corners (overcomplicated):

Have you ever wrapped a present? You know how you fold the corners of the paper, to make a nice corner? We are kind of going to fold the fabric like that to find the point on the top flappy fabric that aligns with the taunt side canvas that is held in place by all of your hard work. We are looking for a neat fold that supports the back of the canvas, while making a neat corner.

Pin those front points together. I drew marks on the fabric to match cause I'm a wild beast. There should be a flap of extra fabric that is triangular in shape.

In folding the fabric, we should have also determined the location of the back corner. We want to mark or pin that corner.

Pin your neat folded edge of canvas, making sure the top and sides of the canvas all look taunt and clean. This is important; we will be sewing/ hot gluing along that line.

Pin/ mark the other corner in the same matter, then remove the canvas off the  shelf unit.

Sew/ glue those seams, bby.

Test fit the canvas on the shelf *before* you cut off the excess fabric. If the fit looks good, great! If not, that's okay, couture takes time.

Cut off the excess fabric. For extra points, flip the canvas inside out to hide the seams.

15. Lace the canvas on for, hopefully the last time. Sorry about that. I'm sure this process could be made a lot more efficient, but again, I was winging it..  

A Process Note, Two: This is the point in my process when I put the lights on my shelves. Again, zip ties and electrical tape. You can even get both of these in multiple colors! You can also skip the tape entirely and use the paracord lacing/ zip ties to hold the cords out of sight.

16. Another great moment to appreciate how much work you have put in and how great it looks. The shelves are still bare but, they'll work!

17. Foam Board Time! This will depend on the size of your shelf, and is pretty straight forward. We want to cut the foam board to fit to the shelf. I found cutting the corners off at a 45 degree angle was an easy way to work around the support poles rather than cutting square corners.

Foam Board Notes: I have found most of the toys have left silicone oil stains on the foam board. This residue is normal due to how silicone is made/ it's chemical make up and not something I am very concerned about. I will be keeping an eye on this long term, but I think the foam board is a good, cost effective option to make the shelves a bit more stable for the toys; I found the bare shelves' rails were a bit too wide to support my toys without a lot of care in positioning.

So, technically, the shelf is done! You can put things on it, admire them under the lights, appreciate how great it all looks, start adding risers and make everything look cute, etc, etc, etc.... Great work! Not only did you put this all together, you decoded my horrible instructions to do it and that deserves a treat of some kind.  

At this point in time, for myself, I am using a heavy duty clear vinyl tablecloth as a cover/ door to keep the cat and dust off the shelves and out of my "fort". I feel like the fort steps are super optional, so I just wanted to be clear, it gets kind of weird from here.

Optional Construction

18. I positioned my shelves in a U-shape and zip tied the corners together to hold the shelves together. It helps that I have them in a weird corner of my office that contains the whole thing and keeps the whole unit in a U-shape.

19. I used some spare 2x4 lumber to create some basic supports for the roof.

20. I used a spare 48 x 48 inch pegboard to create the roof.

21. I stretched the left over canvas out over the top of the pegboard to make it a bit more comfortable for the cat. I had a LOT of extra canvas, so this is optional.

22. I used the front 2x4 support to hold my heavy duty table cloth along the front top of the unit and I flip it up on top of the fort when I need to access the shelves, *AFTER* removing the cat from the room. I have slowly been training him to respect the plastic barrier, but, in the mean time, I hold the bottom of the table cloth down with a stool to make it much harder for him to sneak in.

23. Oops, we made a fort. I filled mine with dicks but you can really put anything in yours.

Closing Thoughts

Anyway, I'm really proud of it.

It's going to make filming much easier for me, as having a static video set with controlled lights makes it so much easier to just... film. I have found myself feeling really critical of my old film set designs, mostly because I really want to properly show these items off, because they are beautiful. Setting those less inspired spaces/ sets up would leave me pretty drained of energy for the process, cause I just wasn't entirely happy with it.

Don't get me started on the whole spinney mechanism thing and how much energy I have wasted in making it look presentable to me; It's been a needless battle.  

But, I also really like that I can see my growth and progress in my review videos, so, to be clear, all of those other sets were also *fantastic*. Just not nearly as fantastic as this one Now I have to work on the real problem, which is me and my video skills. I might get off first. A couple times.

Right off the top, this toy was a gift from one of my listeners; I did not buy him. This review is not sponsored. A massive thank you to You Know Who You Are; he is a jewel in my collection for reasons that I will now get into.

Visually: I have to talk about the paint job. And I mean that in the most literal of senses; this toy is a really beautiful example of silicone hand painting. Some quick context on silicone painting, from my understanding of things: Painting with silicone is a skill in itself. It is different from working with paint; Silicone is gloopy and can be hard to control. If the painting is done wrong, it can lead to unsafe toys. Working with silicone  is time sensitive which adds to the complexity of the painting process.

Toys featuring hand painted elements are growing in popularity in the space as more shops learn the skill and get better at it. This process can be used to paint features on the model, such as detailed eyes and teeth, as well as general design motifs such as tiger stripes, and cow print. Some shops specialize in creating one of a kind hand painted custom toys. It’s a really cool design trend to see. This past October (2022), Fantasy Grove created a really beautiful Halloween themed toy, with a haunted house against the moon, surrounded by a graveyard, skeletal trees, and bats. The painting goes all the way around the toy. The windows of the house are lit up and glow in the dark, as does the moon. The toy is UV reactive, giving it a spooky vibe under black light.

Just, a really cool concept in general. I really liked it. It was very popular in the dong space and the shop was upfront that it would be priced according to the work the toy took, which is to say, higher than a standard Medium Egan. Without going into specifics, I was able to get him. It still feels a bit like a dream, if I am honest.

He is really impressive. The painting is clean and clear, even over the uneven base. The shading details in the moon are so whimsical and the bats are amazingly detailed. The shaft itself and the “background” of the image is a pretty desaturated Halloween-ish purple with a blue micro glitter that takes a bit of focus to find.

I think my most favorite part of the painting is the moon.

Then it comes to the sculpt design. I will be honest in saying, I overlooked this design for quite a white. I’m not really sure why, besides, perhaps he looked a bit plain to me. He is a thicker model with a tapered head, and three gentle, bubbly ridges down the shaft to a softly  wider base. The toy has an overall taper to it from the left to right. When looking straight down the shaft, the toy has a bit of a ‘D’ silhouette, with a flat underside to the shaft while the upper side bulges up. It’s basically a short pillar.

Overall, the design is kind of bubbly and melty and cartoony in that distinct Fantasy Grove style. The paint work really makes this a highlight piece in my collection and I think Egan wears the look well, even if I overlooked the design for so long.

Usability: The tapered arrow shaped head works really well for me, making it easy to get the toy inserted. Then, it's basically all about melting down the shaft; The ridges down the shaft are delicious and are a really nice, gentle texture to make things a bit more interesting. The finish on the toy is very smooth, so it glides in the wetness.

A single issue I have with the model is that the base of the toy is quite wide, which makes it hard for me to grip when I am trying to thrust with it in missionary. On the other hand, this base is really good for riding and grinding and bouncing on.

A personal issue I encounter with a lot of toys is: in the riding position, my body wants to grip the toy and take it with me, rather than getting the in and out action that I'm trying to produce. Something about the width and weight of the base of Egan, coupled with the slight taper of the toy shaft makes this toy very stable when I ride it. I really like that element of the design.

Overall: The design of this toy is fairly straight forward; it's a bubbly, cartoony take on the classic bubbly shaft toy. It can be a bit easy to overlook because the design isn't terribly dramatic. The base is a bit of a struggle to work with.

None of that stops it from being a very effective toy.

The unique paint job is an extra amazing contribution to this model. It is hard to find something with quite the same look as this one, but this model looks great in the more commonly produced pours that Fantasy Grove produces, and they produce some really lovely pours.

Visually: Okay, the bit I have to repeat for all these boys: This design is giving me Demon Zergling Hellsing Monster Fist and what do you know? That's one of my types!

We have our four claw tipped fingers, curled into a fist, which is attached to an insanely thick, demonic wrist that is topped with scale plates and bottomed with demonic eyes. He's super wrinkly and groovy and textured and about twice the size of the medium Ziq, if not slightly more than that.

So, I don't usually give my toys names, but. This one is Purple and Purple and Gold and a hand and massive and I have to call him Thanos. That's his name. Let's all pray he doesn't snap.  

I hope you get that reference; I know it's a deep cut.

He is a three color marble with a slightly blueish purple that has a steely blue opalescent sheen mixed with a more fuchsia/pink purple marbled with a sparkly golden electric yellow.  

He's gorgeous. He's spectacular. He's terrifying.

Usability: Well.... I got part of him in, so, I CAN use him. Which is a great first step.

Look, this thing is massive and reminds me that technically, I should be able to push a small... creature out from between my legs. It is nature. It's natural!

It's called a baby, Bits.

Don't think about breeding, Bits.

This thing is big. It's really intimating. The toy is far too heavy and awkward to thrust by hand.

For me, it is very much for sitting on and squirming until something slides in. I also found that the toy was a bit top heavy on the bed and I had to put it on a book under it to keep it stable.

For a moment, at the start, I kind of just slid around the top of it and I was convinced it wasn't getting in at all. Then something finally lined up and I got part of it in and I am so proud of myself right now. It was an intense stretch, and, I'm honestly not sure I got more than just the "head" in.

This is where the textured portion of the model becomes an issue and I found between the bulk of the toy and the texture itself, I just couldn't get past a certain point. All the same, I got part of it in and it was intense and had that really sweet painful stretchy feeling that is only really going to come with a beast of this size.

I think the usability is a pass on this one. I knew it was going to be a challenge.

Overall: Once again, we are reminded, this model is not for the faint of heart, or those that like to keep their orifices closer to a normal, natural resting size. It's  a handful *hard pause for comedic effect* to handle, and it takes a fair bit of a warm up for me to even begin to get on top of him.

He's one of the supreme challenges in my collection and he's a beautiful challenger.  

Frankly, I think a person could put this model on display in the home, if a person liked demonic silicone hands enough.

I see this one being a special occasion dong for the special occasions where I want to ruin myself in an especially brutal kind of way.

I like it. It's pretty neat!

Anyway, I think that's all I have to say about this final member of the family. I'm pretty happy with my choices here, honestly.

Visually: Okay, the bit I have to repeat for all these boys: This design is giving me Demon Zergling Hellsing Monster Fist and what do you know? That's one of my types!

Just like the small boy, we have a fist, sans thumb, with claw tipped fingers curled into a fist. The knuckles are covered with some intense alienish insectoid plates going the wrong direction. He has some demonic eye features that are reminiscent of Hellsing. And a thick ass wrist. Topped off, he's super textured.

I already talked about this a lot last week but: He's very girthy. He's very textured. He's a bit overwhelming.

Multiply all of that by two as the medium Ziq is approximately twice the size of the small Ziq.

Moving on to the pour, this lad is a marble of pink, blue, yellow, orange, and white. All the colors but the white have glitter through out, giving him a nice sparkle. He looks a tiny bit like Lisa Frank Saturated Rainbow Vomit, and I love it. I don't usually like toys in white, but the white looks so freaking good on this boy. Then the other colors really appeal to me, so, I really like the pour on this this one, quite a bit.

Usability: Okay, so, off the top, this is a very large medium as far as my experience goes. There is significant girth to work on and the extreme texture adds to the difficulty. The soft silicone makes this size approachable to me.  

It was a bit of a struggle to get in, although, using the small to warm up was helpful. I can't imagine just starting off a session with this toy.

The base on this size was easier to hold on to, but I still ran into the issue where the one side is a bit floppier than I would like. I feel like this is a bit of a nit pick, but I don't usually struggle with holding the toy, so I think it's worth noting.  

I could see the weight being an issue for people with wrist problems. It's a bit heavy.

As with other textured toys, once I get it going, it's an internal tissue massage and I have a wonderful time. Pausing on the toy can be a bit intense. I also really enjoyed riding this one.

The girth on this one really makes a point though. It leaves me with a really sweet ache when it starts to stretch me out, which is almost immediately. I think it is worth noting, this feels like a massive toy to me. Even in the soft firmness, it is heavy and dense and a lot to take.

Overall: I just really like this design. The medium is quite the beast to take on and again, I have to agree with the makers themselves: this is an intermediate kind of toy.

I think, I need to be in a certain kind of mood for this model. It isn't necessarily a daily driver toy, unless I'm on some kind of brutal pussy massacre.  But I can see this being a common player in the multiplayer sessions I run with the toys sometimes. He would make for a good closing act, fitting in right ahead of some of my more difficult toys to take, such as Pluto or Mako. This will also make him a good warm up toy for those types, so, I think this boy is pretty versatile as part of my collection.

Visually: So, this was the first ever Friends Request I have ordered from Strange Bedfellas. To explain the process, I was able to select the model, size and firmness of the toy that I wanted, and I was able to select a pour theme. Then I had to wait.

I selected a Medium Qarl in medium firmness with the Neon Surprise pour theme and I was pleasantly happy with my choices. He has a hot bubblegum pink head that glows orange, and a marbled shaft of metallic turquoise blue, sparkly purple ending with a sparkly black base. The pink from the head drips down the shaft to give the toy a bit of an oozy look.

As far as the sculpt's design goes, Qarl has a tapered head with some fun swoopy bubble texture along the ridge of his head which immediately leads into a bit of a swell in the shaft. The shaft tapers back down, a bit like a hourglass before coming to a knot about 2 inches under the thickest part of the upper swell. The shaft has some gentle ridges down the shaft that are also kind of a swoopy bubbly design. The knot is smooth, then we squeeze back down to the shaft with a couple more ridges, before ending with a feathered base. The sculpt on the base is really adorable and includes some stand out feathers that make a great spot to grind, if you can reach it.

The feathers are pink against the black/purple base and it is very frosted tips and I am in love.

I really like the design.

Usability: Okay, let's talk about the base first; the design has the stand out feathers along the top of the shaft, much like a snatch of pubes, and it makes it really easy to tell which way the toy is pointed. The base of this toy fit well in my hand and the texture on the base makes it easy to hold onto. I think if it was much bigger it would be difficult to work with, but it feels good in my hand. The base is also thick enough to provide a stable base for the toy for riding which I go more into detail in the audio.

The tapered head makes for easy entry. I do find, depending on how I am feeling, the swell can be a bit to take and sometimes I have to warm up to it a bit, but it is a comfortable stretch over all. I'm a really big fan of the swell.

So then we get to the portion in between the swell and the knot and I can gush about that design feature. The way the ridges are designed, allows the shaft to bend in a really effective way. Often, its all about the angles and this guy is flexible which let's him hit those important angles and the ridges are delectable. I'm a really big fan of the shaft.

The knot shows up at that point, and I will be honest in that, some days I can take it and I really like it; Other days, it is a bit on the edge of my range. Generally, I can take it, and that is a stand out in the knotted toys that I have tried, as I usually run into depth issues trying to take them; More on that in a moment. As I can usually take the knot on Qarl, he is immediately my favorite knotted toy.  

One negative comment: I have a bit of a depth issue with this guy and the head can poke a bit uncomfortably at times when I am taking the whole thing. Generally, I don't mind it, but some people don't like that and it's worth noting.

Overall: I have so much appreciation for this toy. Not only is it really beautiful and aesthetically something that I really like, but the design is super effective. I mention a few times that he has been my go-to toy during #TheSlowdown and I think that is largely because he hits all the right spots which makes it kind of easy to get off and call it a day. It's not an extreme stretch, but enough for a nice time.

One downside to this model is that it is seasonal, so it is limited for purchase to the summer months of the year. I think he is worth the wait, and worth watching for.

He's just so damn handsome; Of course I like the himbo.

I hope you are having a great week!

Visually: Okay, the bit I have to repeat for all these boys: This design is giving me Demon Zergling Hellsing Monster Fist and what do you know? That's one of my types! 

Imagine a fist, toss the thumb, throw some claws on what's left. Add some alienish insectoid plates going the wrong direction, some demonic eye features, a thick wrist. Then make him super wrinkly. Just... add more wrinkles to it. 

Okay, that's enough.  

I dunno what you are imagining, but maybe it's close to Ziq?  He's very girthy. He's very textured. He's a bit overwhelming. 

Again: My type. 

Then the pour is quite lovely. It's is a black drip over a yellow, pink, purple split made for the 5 year anniversary drop. Those are my colors and I quite like the look of the drips on this model. Overall, I really like the look of this one, even if I wish the layered colors were a bit more faded. But that's a personal problem. 

Usability: Okay, so this one was a bit hard to get started, just because the head is pretty blunt and the texture starts right away. So I had to finesse him a bit to get him started, then it was a bit more of a struggle to get the rest of the of the fist into my pussy. As far as size goes, this guy is comfortably within my range, but the texture is all designed in a way that its not necessarily meant to go in easy? So all of this was expected and all to plan. 

It was still a bit harder to get in than I expected. No worries. 

Once he is in and I get things moving, the texture becomes apparently it's not going anywhere. I really don't want to understate, the texture was a lot. But I liked it, so... Be aware, but also don't be afraid? 

I found even just sitting on it for a short moment, it was hard to ignore the way it was rubbing inside me and it really makes me consider if it would make a good toy to wear out for sneaky play as a pussy plug. I suspect that's a really stupid idea if I want to go for a long excursion, but maybe to a movie?

One thing that was a bit of a challenge: I found, the base of the toy is a bit deceptively hard to hold on to. The base is oval, with the longer ends coming to a point. One side has some chonk to the base and some spikes to help grab onto it, but the other side is thinner and less detailed and I was really struggling to keep a hold on it. So that was a bit annoying, but not horrible.

Overall: Look, even the Strange Bedfellas site makes a point to note that this toy is a bit of an intermediate user toy. Between the texture and the girth, I... have to agree with that assessment? Even the small is a bit more intense than I anticipated, as far as the texture level goes.  

I also feel like I didn't realize what I was getting into in some ways.  The small size is approachable enough and I found the medium firmness was still soft enough that all the ridges had enough give that they were more like a gentle, persistent rub than one would expect.  If you would like to hear my NSFW Audio review of this toy, you can check it out HERE. That’s a Lewd ASMR In Use Review, to be clear.