AROUND the time that Netflix released an entire season of âHouse of Cardsâ at once, so that viewers could gorge on all 13 episodes, a friend sent me a plaintive e-mail about the way that foodie-favored restaurants give her no option other than gorging.
This is an extremely reliable indicator that the columnist's opinion on broad national trends will be informed by data and a wide variety of indicators across varied and relevant demographics.
She misses salads. (Yes, itâs possible. Really.) Sheâs nostalgic for healthy sides. In one place where she recently dined, she ordered kale, only to find that it was fried and, adding insult to artery, pummeled with candied pancetta. In another place, slivers of pastrami accessorized an unsuspecting salmon. She encounters bacon on brussels sprouts, bacon in sundaes and martinis, bacon, bacon everywhere, along with marrow and liver and lard.
âItâs all or nothing,â she wrote, flagging a dichotomy: cooking in trendy restaurants has never been fattier, while the trend of âcleansingâ with a severe regimen of liquefied fruits, vegetables and nuts has never been hotter. Feast or famine. Binge or beet juice.
"Oh my god, I just can't get kale without meat anywhere!" Hey, guess what? There's this thing called Yelp. If you live in a major urban center - and if you're going to places that serve kale with candied pancetta, there's no damn way you don't, then there is no way in that pantheon of culinary options you cannot, with the aid of the internet, find a restaurant that serves food you like. Maybe do this instead.
It's so hard to be cool when all the cool people are doing things you don't like, I know. But to just think that if these people had bothered to, I don't know, choose food on the basis of places they like rather than on the basis of what cultured food critics think is good. For example, I do not like restaurants that charge me obscene amounts of money to eat tiny amounts of artfully prepared food on a weird looking plate. Since I choose my restaurants on the basis of what they serve rather than what is "trendy," this has not been a problem for me, and I am not inspiring apocalyptic NYT columns, which I suppose makes me culturally irrelevant like everyone else who doesn't have a psychological breakdown over kale salad preparation.
I turned from her lament to the front page of The Times. It reported the accidental death of someone participating in the X Games, a magnet for âextreme athletes,â as the article called them. The word âextremeâ stuck with me and struck a chord. We compete extremely (look at Lance). Work out extremely (look all around you). Eat extremely. Watch extreme amounts of whatever weâve decided we love, which we love in extremis. Even our weather is extreme: superstorms, Frankenstorms, snowmageddons.
Wow, "extreme" phenomena would attract more media attention. I wonder what kind of motives in a free market of journalism would draw coverage and attention to phenomena that fall outside the standard distribution of normal activity.
Also, that Frank Bruni is trying to link weather patterns with Lance Armstrong makes me want to weep.
And of course extreme campaign spending has contributed to extreme partisanship, the left seeing little merit or valor in just about anyone on the right, the right seeing the whole world with a tunnel vision thatâs extremely eerie. The deficit of comity has led to the imminent spending cuts known as sequestration, which is an extreme answer to Congressâs failure to agree on a course of moderation.
And of course you said this. While I see no requirement to defend the current iteration of the American government as particularly admirable or functional, the notion that partisanship is at all time extremes, for whatever the reason, is beyond stupid.
Extreme partisanship is people beating the shit out of each other with blunt weapons in Congress. Extreme partisanship is several decades of people committing murder, arson, and terrorist intimidation against fellow Americans. Extreme partisanship is massive riots, witch hunts that end in trials, and civil wars. But you know, internet trolls these days are like, SO CRAZY.
Moderation. Remember that? It was once held up as an indisputable virtue, virtually synonymous with prudence. Donât get too carried away with any one thing. Donât become too set in your ways. That was the message from parents and teachers. That was the cue the culture gave.
My fancy restaurants don't serve kale the way I like, clearly prudence is dead in America. Why cannot we return to the more humble days when urban megalopoli served more traditional forms of kale salad? Why cannot we return to the days when public school teachers taught children the simple life of enjoying foie gras without unnecessary embellishment? Why cannot we avoid the dangers of becoming set in our ways, which totally wouldn't involve losing our mofugging minds when it becomes difficult to order kale the way you liked it at fancy restaurants?
But America these days is an immoderate land of fixed opinions and outsize fixations. More and more we wallow: in our established political philosophy; in our preferred interest group; in our pastime of choice; in whichever health routine weâve turned into a health religion.
If you were to take IBM's supercomputer Watson, allow it to read only New York Times opinion columns for years, and then accidentally let it fall off the back of a truck into a puddle and then had a relatively technically adept middle schooler try to put it back together, it would probably give you something statistically indistinguishable from these sentences after you performed a hard reset and asked it, "How ya feelin' buddy?"
I BLAME the Internet. Well, that and social media and cable television, with its infinity of channels.Â
In theory our hyperconnectivity and surfeit of possibilities have broadened our universes, speeding us to distant galaxies, fresh discoveries and new information. But in reality theyâve just as often had a narrowing effect, enabling us to dwell longer on, and burrow deeper into, one way of being, one mode of thinking.
SPOILER ALERT: Frank Bruni will reference one website (Slate) and three cable news channels (Fox, MSNBC, and CNN) in this column. In mid-19th century America, opinions were so fixed that people were hacking each other to death with broadswords and seceding from the Union. In mid-20th century America, people were denouncing basically anyone who disagreed with them as communists and trying to prosecute them, while U.S. federal agents and troops had to escort black children into schools and later investigate or clash against anti-war protesters. Here is Pat Buchanan's advisory to Nixon on visiting Martin Luther King Jr.'s widow in 1969:
It would outrage many, many people who believe Dr. King was a fraud and a demagogue, and perhaps worse... It does not seem to be in the interests of national unity for the president to lend his national prestige to the argument that this divisive figure is a modern saint.
It's a good thing that people back then didn't have the internet to confirm their opinions or who knows what kind of horrible things people would have said, believed, and done!
Whether youâre predisposed to a conservative or liberal view, you can set your bookmarks to Web sites that reinforce what you already believe, take a similar tack with your Facebook and Twitter feeds, and turn for news to Fox News or MSNBC, each an echo chamber for like minds.
Wowee, the internet is an instrument that can be used by people to suit their preferences! Surely this must be a debilitating force in American political life, because clearly before the invention of the internet, average people with vastly fewer options for information consumption would be more frequently challenged to change deeply held beliefs and political opinions. It is a shame this America is gone, where the average working family could sit down together at a New American Cuisine restaurant and rationally contend about the moderate cases made by a wide variety of dissenting viewpoints, a process probably aided by their ability to know that they could order salad without the fear of candied gourmet meat being added to it. God, what happened to this country?
Also, that Bruni laments the drop in viewership of CNN and uses that as a metric for Americans receiving thoughtful challenges to their conventional wisdom either tells you that Bruni is a condescending Platonic sophist who thinks that Americans cannot consume information more complicated than a Lolcat image macro without the assistance of a talking head, or else implies that CNN popularity is the cornerstone of American civil society, a thought so repulsive, that, if true, it would drive me to become either a monarchist or join the Esoteric Order of Dagon.
Thereâs more extremism on the right than on the left: President Obamaâs health care reform and push to raise taxes donât come anywhere near the socialism that his Tea Party nemeses, themselves much more rigid, rant about. Above all, thereâs gridlock. Itâs hard to make much progress when reciprocal distrust is this extreme.
Is Bruni trying to say that Democrats are moderately extremist? Or would the argument that Democrats are extreme be too extreme for the NYT column viewership? Or, can he not think of examples of extremism but is so wedded to his own fixated view of moderation that he must, for moderation's sake, point out that there is some Democratic extremism? Anyway, thank the lord that somebody is finally taking the bold stance of condemning gridlock and distrust.
Weâre immoderate not just in our affiliations, but also in our impulses. âWork Out So Hard You Vomitâ proclaimed a headline on Slate.com not so long ago; the story with it presented a tour through the long, grueling trials to which the fitness-intent subject themselves.
It's definitely not an example of epistemic closure, confirmation bias and lack of challenging one's own worldviews to give one Slate article as the sole data point for your supposed national trend.
Never mind studies that suggest that moderate exertion â less than 20 miles of running a week, not more, and at a stately pace â bodes best for well-being. A growing group of people want the more extreme experience of military-style boot camps and obstacle courses like those in the Tough Mudder program, whose adherents forgo the treadmill and its individual TV screen for the exhilaration of crawling under barbed wire and swerving around flames. Bye, bye, Jack LaLanne. Hello, âFull Metal Jacket.â
Clearly the problem with America is that too many people are running more than 20 miles a week and doing Tough Mudder. Doctors everywhere are urging the Surgeon General to speak out about the danger of exercise extremism, as the Joint Chiefs of Staff warn that Americans may be "too ripped" to safely fight for the armed forces.
Iâm even more impressed with our food obsessions, being such a food-obsessive myself. Organic, gluten, lactose, carbohydrate: people structure whole diets around binding vocabularies, and not always because they have an affliction compelling them to.
And actual diets, by which I mean those aimed at superfluous chins, are flamboyantly ascetic, with solid food exiting the equation for three days, for five days, even for 10. The BluePrintCleanse, the Cooler Cleanse and other retail juice fasts have surged in popularity over recent years. Sales of juice extractors are also on the upswing. Even our self-punishment is indulgent. We binge on deprivation.
And we binge, period. Over the last decade, ambitious young chefs have jockeyed to one-up one another when it comes to fried, funky excess. I thought the situation had reached some gluttonous apotheosis with the Los Angeles restaurant Animal, where a porky meal I ate in early 2009 included foie gras on a biscuit doused in both maple syrup and pork-sausage gravy.
Food obsessive complains that moderate food obsession has now been hijacked by extreme food obsession, contributing to national cultural decline. Can you think of the massive number of Americans who are suffering because their hyper-competitive gourmet chefs are no longer willing to serve them foie gras biscuits without gravy?
Also, since when is putting maple syrup on stuff 'extreme?' Maple syrup is delicious and you can put it on normal food, such as pancakes. Or you can be a jerk and stigmatize it because you thought it made a meal, the name of which is literally FAT LIVER in French, and comes from a force-fed duck, unhealthy and excessive.
But since then, thereâs been renewed respect for poutine, a dish of French fries, gravy and cheese. Chicago welcomed Au Cheval, where thereâs potato hash with duck-heart gravy and a fried bologna sandwich. And a place in Queens went ahead and called itself Salt & Fat. Its beet salad has pepperoni chips. Its apple salad has candied walnuts and speck. And the foie gras comes with bacon brittle.
Okay, poutine is actually pretty awesome and as far as I can tell, there is not a poutine trend sweeping the nation, which is a shame because Americans already like things with French fries, gravy, and melted cheese anyway and have for years. But yeah, seriously, we're assessing a national problem with food on the basis of places that serve duck-heart gravy. Just go to Subway or something if this is really a problem for you.
The verb âbingeâ applies as never before to television viewing. What Netflix was acknowledging with its âHouse of Cardsâ release was the widespread habit of storing up hours of a favorite show or buying a whole season so that you can marinate for an entire weekend in Claire Danesâs twitchy dread. So that you can choose your one mood, your one note, and revel in it.
If the television show you watch just has one mood or one note, it might be a bad television show. Especially if it's Homeland. Interlude:
Also, few people I'm aware of actually like a show "store up" one they like intentionally so they can watch it all in one go, it's because they're actually busy and are moderating their television consumption on the days the show airs. Maybe Bruni's anecdotal sample is superior to mine, but most people who like a TV show and are able to watch it on the day it comes out do so.
But when does a luxury become a rut? And if we each hunker down in some tightly proscribed burg, donât we lose common ground? That possibility explains the fusty maxim of âmoderation in all things,â which wasnât so much a wet towel over passion as a caution against single-mindedness. And a warning about bacon.
This part is the best part, because only other people who moan about not being able to eat the gourmet foodie nonsense prepared the way traditional gourmet foodie nonsense was, I don't know, ten years ago, and who extrapolate political moods from their Netflix viewing habits and accepted conventional wisdom about politics would ever actually identify with the arguments in this column and find it at all persuasive. Yes, eat your foie gras right, watch one episode of Homeland a week, and Congress might be able to come around.
At least he didn't mention high-speed rail.