Chero Knowledge

1. Removing rings stains- this applies to all types of coffee tables when a hot or cold beverage is placed on it without a coaster.

Mix one part toothpaste and one part baking soda together.

Use a cloth to apply the solution to the stain in a circular motion.

Let the solution sit.  After, wipe it clean and buff with furniture polish.

If the stain remains, put mayonnaise on it overnight and wipe clean in the morning.

2. Wood Coffee Tables-

Reverse water damage- put a clean, thick towel on top of the stain.

Place your iron on a low to medium setting on top of the towel. The heat should release the moisture.

Repeat until the stain disappears.

Polish and buff.

Scratches and nicks- conceal these with nuts. Crack open Brazil nuts or fresh walnuts and rub the meat of the nut over the scratch. The nuts have natural oils that can darken the wood and hide scratches. Rub in the direction of wood’s grain and buff with a soft cloth to blend in with the finish.

3. Glass Coffee Tables-

Clear everything off the table surface

Wipe the table with a clean, dry cloth to remove any non-sticky spills

Spray glass cleaner or water on the table’s surface

Wipe the cleaner or water off with a clean, dry cloth

Use a ball of crumbled newspaper to remove any areas of lint or dust that are sticking to table’s surface

If the table is still dirty at this point, try cleaning it with a 50-50 solution of vinegar and water

Make the glass sparkle by buffing with a clean piece of newspaper

4. Metal Coffee Tables- Clean based on type of metal

Steel or galvanized tin- Use a soft cloth and dust the table. Remove stains using a damp cloth.  For dull tops- shine with a stainless steel cleaner or buff using toothpaste on a soft cloth

5. Copper Coffee Tables-

Lacquer-coded tables- Clean with a damp cloth

1. Cleaning valences- Stand on a step stool and use a hand-held vacuum to suck up the dust. Hold the fabric taut to get in between the folds. To revive the fabric, use a hand-held garment steamer or a blast of steam from an iron a few inches away.

2. Dusting- Dust from the top going down using a vacuum. Dust both sides of the curtains. Make sure you dust the folds and hems because that’s where the most dust accumulates.

3. Cleaning sheer curtains- Most are machine washable, but read the labels in case. Wash warm, gentle cycle and tumble dry low or with no heat. Promptly remove and rehang.

4. Spot-clean shades- Use a vacuum or lint roller to remove dust.  To remove fingerprints or stains, combine dishwashing liquid and warm water on a sponge. Lightly wipe the area. Blot away the soap and gently dab away remaining moisture with a clean cloth. Fade remaining water spots with steam from an iron or a garment steamer.

Tips:

To repel dust, spray sheers with static-eliminating spray

Curtains that are machine washable are likely to be fine with steam cleaning.  Double check manufacturer instructions to be safe.

Keep your windows closed when curtains are drying.

1. For safety during cleaning, tape down the fan’s switch.

2. Over an area on the floor below, twice as wide as the blades, spread drop cloths or old sheets to cover the floor and any furniture.

3. In a spray bottle combine water and 2 tablespoons of distilled white vinegar. Spray the inside of a cloth shoe bag or pillowcase with the solution.

4. Put on a baseball cap to protect yourself from any dust that goes flying.

5. Stand on an extra-tall stepladder.  You want your head to be above the blades.

6. Slip the sprayed pillowcase or shoe bag over each fan blade one at a time. Pull it back to trap dust.

7. Use a cotton cloth to remove any remaining grime.

Tips:

For high ceiling fans that are out of reach, use a ceiling-fan duster (ex. Unger microfiber duster at acehardware.com)

Clean your ceiling fan every other month if you used it year-round.

General Steps-

1. Find the fabric tag on your couch to learn what it’s made of.  Then decipher the tag’s code for the appropriate cleaning products with this key:

“W”= Clean with water-based detergent

“S”= Dry clean or use water-free detergent

“WS”= Dry clean or use water-based cleaner

“X”=Vacuum or professionally clean

“O”= Organic material; wash with cold water

2. Purchase the cleaner your tag said to use. (Ex. leather cleaner and conditioner)

3. Brush off caked-on dirt with a bristle brush. Note areas that are the dirtiest.

4. Remove surface debris (food crumbs, dirt, pet hair, dust) with an upholstery brush attachment to the vacuum.

5. Use a lint brush to remove any fur or lint that the vacuum doesn’t pick up.

6. Take off the cushions and vacuum the seats.

7. With someone’s assistance, turn the couch over and vacuum the bottom.

Cleaning by type of Couch Upholstery-

1. “W” or “WS Upholstery-

Combine 3 ounces of carpet upholstery detergent with water in the cleaned solution tank of the vacuum

Spot test- dip a cloth in the solution in a small, hidden area of the couch.  After 10 minutes, check for color bleeding by pressing a paper towel onto the spot. If dye of the fabric isn’t coming off, the detergent is safe to use.

Attach the upholstery nozzle, hose and solution tube to the recovery tank of the vacuum per instructions.

Turn on the vacuum. Push the nozzle against the sofa’s fabric and pull the solution trigger. Hold the trigger and slowly move the nozzle over the fabric. Overlap your strokes on the fabric to prevent streaking.

Remove the wet solution from the fabric by running the nozzle over the area without pressing the trigger.

Pull the solution trigger to apply and then vacuum it up.

For extreme dirt, do crisscrossing strokes over the fabric in a basket-weaving pattern.

Make no more than two passes to prevent color fading.

2. “S” Upholstery-

Ventilate the area- Place a small box fan in the open windows near your couch.    

Spot test/treat with dry cleaning solvent to make sure it won’t stain.

Spread the solvent out on the couch in an even layer with a wet sponge.  Wait an hour and then vacuum it up. If the color doesn’t change, it’s safe to use the solvent.

Apply dry cleaning solvent on a white cloth. Blot it onto the upholstery of the couch to remove stains and dirt.

Remove and dry cleaning solvent with a wet, clean cloth.

3. “Leather”-

Combine a quart of distilled water with ¼ teaspoon leather cleaner. Mix well to form suds.

Wet a clean cloth with soapy water and wring out.

Wipe the couch in small sections.  Use the cleaning cloth with leather cleaner and then wipe over the same area with a cleaning cloth that only has distilled water on it to remove the soap.

Dry the wet area with a dry cloth.

1. Empty your closet out. Remove all of your clothes/shoes etc.

2. Remove any dust, dirt or moisture using cleaning products and if needed, an air freshener.

3. Separate your clothes by seasons.   For example, in the winter keep summer clothes stored in an area of your closet that is easily accessible, but not in your way.

4. Organize your clothes by sizes, color and reason you wear them (ex.  sleep wear versus work clothes).  You will be surprised to find out how many clothes you have that are the same color.

5. Put as many clothes as possible on hangers.  It’s the best way to keep your closet tidy.

6. Fold loose knits (sweaters and scarves) and any other clothing in which hangers deform their shape.

7. Cover special attire (suits, cocktail dresses etc.) in suit covers for extra protection.

8. Be in the mindset to donate.  

Clothes that you have not worn in a while, that are out of fashion, not your current size or you have no plans of wearing in the future should be donated.

Make a list of the items for donation and stack them in a box or bag.

For clothes that you have an emotional attachment too, take pictures of you wearing them to remember them by.

9. Separate your shoes, hats and bags from your clothes. Organize shoes by type and store them with clothes that are worn for the same season (ex. winter boots with winter clothes).

10. Cycle your clothing out of your everyday closet by season to make more space. If you have a large closet, put off-season clothes in the back.

Tips:

Reconfigure your closet to work for you

Put everything back in its place and have a place for everything. It’s easier to keep your closet clean this way.

Leave extra space for new clothes

Declare a temporary zone for items that you will put back later (ex. hooks)

Keep the hamper nearby to prevent a dirty clothes pile-up

Don’t over stuff the closet with hangers. Fold items too.

Look through your clothes and donate seasonally

Buy containers that allow for breathability

Don’t hang delicate materials over long periods of time so they don’t stretch.

1. Bedspreads- Wash before they become soiled and treat stains with prewash products.

Washing it yourself- dip a corner of the bedspread into the detergent first.  If it bleeds, take it to the dry-cleaner’s instead.

Use an oversized commercial washing machine.  Machines that are too small will not get your spread clean.

Drying- Hang dry or use a large, commercial dryer

2. Blankets- Most can be hand or machine-washed. To go a step further try these:

Vacuum blankets to remove dust and lint (periodically)

Treat spots and stains before washing

Air blankets on a clothesline to freshen them  (periodically)

Always wash (never dry clean) electric blankets. Cleaning solvents can damage wiring.

3. Comforters and Quilts- Some can be cleaned at home and others are too delicate to be cleaned. They may be filled with cotton batting, polyester or wool.  If possible, check the manufacturer’s instructions.

Silk- or velvet-covered quilts and comforters, or wool batting or covering: Do not wash them

Large quilts or comforters: Soak in the machine for ~10 min before running through the gentle wash cycle.

Fragile/old quilts and quilts with cotton batting: Hand-wash and line-dry

Down-filled Comforters and Quilts: Most are washable, but handle older ones with more care . 

a. Comforters and quilts in good condition: Machine wash and dry. Use cold water and an all purpose detergent. b. Fragile comforters and quilts: Hand-wash in a laundry tub or bathtub. Hang-dry and reposition on the clothes line periodically.

4. Pillows- Know the type of filling inside your pillow—feather, foam, down, polyester or kapok—to use the right cleaning method.  For example, some polyester-filled pillows are washable and others are not. Kapok filling can’t be washed and requires frequent airing. 

Guidelines for Cleaning Pillows:

Feather or down pillows: Fluff daily to remove dust and redistribute filling. Machine- or hand-wash in cool water with light detergent.  Dry on low-heat with a pair of clean, dry tennis shoes to distribute the down as it is drying .

Foam pillows: Hand-wash and line-dry, changing the hanging position hourly. Never put in the dryer.

Polyester Pillows: Wash in warm water with an all-purpose detergent. Dry on moderate heat.

Tips

Wash your bedding in hot water. Temperatures of 130 degrees are necessary to kill mites.  

Wash sheets and pillowcases weekly.

Wash pillows, blankets and comforters every month to 6 weeks.

Once a month refresh pillows by airing them near an open window

1. Distribute mattress weight evenly- Turn your mattress 4 times a year side to side and top to toe.

2. Turning top to toe- You will need another person for this. 

Each person should stand on a different side of the mattress. 

Grab onto the mattress handles and turn it perpendicular to the box springs.

Next, slide the mattress partially off one side bringing the end originally at the foot of the bed to the top and letting the other end fall to the floor

Let the mattress fall onto the bed and put it back in place. Now the part of the mattress that was originally at the head is at the foot.

3. Every 3 months, vacuum the mattress and box springs using the upholstery attachment to the vacuum. You can also do this when you rotate the mattress.

4. Every time you go vacation, strip the bed to let it air out.

5. Use a washable, breathable and water resistant mattress pad or protector. This is key to protecting your investment from liquid damage, soiling and stains.

* Stain and soiling voids a manufacturer’s warranty.

6. Have a spot or stain?  Remove it promptly, but do not allow the mattress to become excessively wet in cleaning.  Let the mattress fully dry before making-up the bed. 

Tips

Don’t remove sewn tags.  They are your mattress’s identification in a warranty claim and they contain important information.  Tag removal could void your warranty coverage.

Don’t sit on the edge of your mattress.

Never place a board between your box springs and mattress. This can damage your mattress’s ability to support your body.

Don’t clean your mattress with dry-cleaning type fluids or harsh chemicals.  It may damage internal components.

1. Open bedroom windows.  

-The airflow will freshen up the room, helping to remove toxins and moisture.

2.  Pull back your comforter, blankets and sheets every morning. The airflow from outside will evaporate the moisture from your bedding.

-Every night, we lose a pint of moisture.

3. Leave the bed unmade the rest of the workday to air out, if possible.

4. On the weekend- Strip your bed and change your sheets. It will give your mattress time to air out.

1. Locate the power to the heater and shut it off.

Electrical heaters- The power source will be a breaker or fuse box. You may need to turn off a breaker or remove a fuse in the electrical panel to ensure the electricity is off.  This is critical. Turning off the electricity ensures the heating element will not turn on when the heater is drained.  If it’s not shut off, the heating element could burn out and the whole water heater would need to be replaced.

Gas heaters- The power source will be the thermostat.  Note what the temperature is set to and move the gas dial to the lowest setting or “Pilot”.

2. Turn off the cold water supply.  Find the shut-off valve near the cold-water inlet pipe and rotate the valve clockwise until it can’t go any further.

3.  Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the heater. FYI, it may be hidden under a removable cover. Run the hose to a good location for draining the system.

4. Open the hot water faucet in your sink or tub. This prevents a vacuum from forming in the pipes.

5. Open the hot water heater valve and let it drain completely. If it clogs, open the cold water to see if it will help open the clog. Close it back when it does.

6. As the water drains, check to see if it’s clear or not.  If unclear, flush the heater by opening the cold water supply valve and drain the heater again (follow steps 2-5).

7. Once the water is clear, close the drain valve and remove the hose.

8. Turn on the cold water supply valve and fill the hot water heater with cold water.

9. Open all of the hot water facets in the house, until any air in the line is released and water flows normally.

10. Turn the water supply back on.

11. When the hot water tap is running full volume, power the water heater back up.

· Electrical heaters- Turn the breaker on or replace the fuse

· Gas heaters- Turn the gas from the lowest setting or “Pilot” to the temperature it was set to before turning it off.

12. Shut off the water to your tub. Wait 20 minutes and test to see if hot water is running from the tub spigot.

1. Locate the power to the heater and shut it off.

Electrical heaters- The power source will be a breaker or fuse box. You may need to turn off a breaker or remove a fuse in the electrical panel to ensure the electricity is off.  This is critical. Turning off the electricity ensures the heating element will not turn on when the heater is drained.  If it’s not shut off, the heating element could burn out and the whole water heater would need to be replaced.

Gas heaters- The power source will be the thermostat.  Note what the temperature is set to and move the gas dial to the lowest setting or “Pilot”.

2. Turn off the cold water supply.  Find the shut-off valve near the cold-water inlet pipe and rotate the valve clockwise until it can’t go any further.

3.  Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the heater. FYI, it may be hidden under a removable cover. Run the hose to a good location for draining the system.

4. Open the hot water faucet in your sink or tub. This prevents a vacuum from forming in the pipes.

5. Open the hot water heater valve and let it drain completely. If it clogs, open the cold water to see if it will help open the clog. Close it back when it does.

6. As the water drains, check to see if it’s clear or not.  If unclear, flush the heater by opening the cold water supply valve and drain the heater again (follow steps 2-5).

7. Once the water is clear, close the drain valve and remove the hose.

8. Turn on the cold water supply valve and fill the hot water heater with cold water.

9. Open all of the hot water facets in the house, until any air in the line is released and water flows normally.

10. Turn the water supply back on.

11. When the hot water tap is running full volume, power the water heater back up.

Electrical heaters- Turn the breaker on or replace the fuse

Gas heaters- Turn the gas from the lowest setting or “Pilot” to the temperature it was set to before turning it off.

12. Shut off the water to your tub. Wait 20 minutes and test to see if hot water is running from the tub spigot.

Drain the water heater.  (*See How to Flush Your Water Heater for directions).

After draining, remove the drain valve. Replace plastic valves with brass ones.

Insert the brush into the drain valve opening to access the bottom of the tank inside

Scrub the bottom of the tank front to back and side to side. The idea is to loosen as much of the deposits and sediment as possible.

When you are finished, screw the ¾ inch nipple into the valve.

Attach a garden hose to the nipple.

Turn on the water supply to your heater and let it run for 15-20 sec.

Turn off.

Drain all the water out of the tank.

Add more water and drain again.

Repeat the process until the tank is clean.

1. Check the tank’s salt level. If it’s below half full, it’s time to add salt.

2. Add salt regularly based on these checks. Refill the tank until it is 2/3 full at the most.

3. Learn the type of salt that the tank’s manufacturer requires. The types are: granular, block or tablet.

4. Inspect your tank every 2-3 months. Check for salt build-up in the brine tank. 

5. Break-up any salt bridges with a long broom handle.

6. Clean the brine tank annually.

7. Clean the resin bed and control valve parts annually with Iron-Out. 

 Tips:  

Softener’s drain line

This should be down into the floor drain and the line’s end should rest above the drain’s grate to prevent sewage from getting into the softener.

Salt

Use pure salt with iron remover

Standard Rock Salt- cheaper, but it has contaminants that will make maintenance expensive.

Rock Salt- can cause sediment build up in the brine tank, clogging the control valve and the injector.

1. Brushing and Vacuuming

Start by cleaning out the window channels with a stiff-bristle brush. This can even remove dirt that becomes stuck to the sides and bottoms of the channels.  Remove loose dirt by using a vacuum cleaner attachment.

2.  Silicone and Penetrating Lubricants

Spray silicone lubricant onto window channels. This makes channel surfaces less sticky and prevents rust, and corrosion from forming. Spray penetrating oil onto window spring locks that penetrate and have moisture.

3.  Detergent Solutions

Use a solution of dishwashing detergent and water along with a soft brush to clean window channels. This helps prevent oxidation and pitting on channel surfaces. When finished cleaning, rinse the channels with clean water.

4.  Automobile Paint Wax

Coat metal window frames and the channels they slide in with automobile paint wax.

1. Home Alarm Systems

Professional Maintenance

A trained professional will be able to specifically diagnose any problems with your system, rather than relying on your own self-testing.

A professional inspecting your security system will:  

Check to see that batteries are functioning correctly.

Ensure that the monitoring center is receiving transmitted signals .

Perform controlled tests on panic buttons

Check to see if sensors come loose

Repair any malfunctioning or damaged parts of the system

Self-Maintenance

Between annual check ups, test your security systems yourself regularly:

Older systems- check every three months

Newer systems - check every six months 

Notify your provider prior to running a test, so that they don’t accidentally dispatch emergency support.

2. Smoke Detectors

Your security provider will inspect these.  The National Fire Alarm Code requires annual inspections

Regularly test your device. Press the “test” button in most models and the alarm will sound. Refer to your manual for specific instructions.

3. Traditional and Wireless Security Systems

Batteries in your security panel should be changed every 3-5 years. Ask your vendor for their recommendations on timing.

4. Video Surveillance Cameras

Regularly dust the camera and clean the lens with a lens/monitor wipe or cleaner.

1. Set Up

Before even touching your hot water heater, find the main switch and turn it off.

Wait for the heater to cool off and empty it.  To avoid bad burns, wait 2-3 hours for the heater to cool down before continuing.

Once the boiler has cooled:

Use a screwdriver to disassemble and remove the front cover of the unit. Remove the vent stack and top cover. Take pictures before disassembling. It will help you during reassembly, so you know where all the little pieces go.

2. Clean the Tubes

Insert a long brush into the valve and start cleaning the insides

Clean the dust off the tubes all the way down to the base of the heater

After dust removal, wash the burner tubes with clean water and let dry.

3. Clean the Complete Unit

Dry any water remaining on the outside of the unit.

Clean the bottom of the unit and its surroundings with a vacuum cleaner. It is important for the area surrounding the water heater to be clean with no obstructions. This will make it operate at its best.

4. Time To Put It All Back Together!

Use the pictures in your digital camera as a reference.

Place the burner tubes back first, then the vent sack and unit covers.

Make sure to clean the vent sack with your brushes, or wash with water if necessary. The vent sack should be obstruction-free.

5. Testing and Restarting

After putting everything back together, turn your power back on

Let the thermostat go all the way up to start the boiling cycle. You should be seeing a regular blue flame, with a slight orange color.

Maintenance Tips:

Be extra careful when working with natural gas appliances. Any problems call a professional right away.

Get your boiler checked once a year by a professional

Absolutely get it checked if its been running for more than 2 years

1. Unplug the unit and disconnect the power

2. If necessary, remove the filter and cover over the unit or bezel to expose cooling coils.

3. Spray the front coil with a cleaning agent for coils. This helps to remove deposits of mold, dirt etc.

4. Clean the filter.  

5. Replace the cover and filter.  Wait 10-15 minutes and restore power. 

6. Run the air conditioner. 

7. Repeat the process if it has been a while between cleanings. 

8. Turn the unit off and disconnect the power.

9. Look over the outdoor coils.

10. Clean the outdoor coils with foaming cleanser. 

11. Rinse cleanser off from coils with a garden hose.

12. Reconnect the power and test. 

1. Think fire safety first.

Install smoke and carbon monoxide alarms. Test monthly and change the batteries every 6 months. 

Keep combustible materials (e.g. drapes, carpet and furniture) away from the fireplace when a fire is burning. 

Place a fire screen in front of the fireplace to protect children and pets. 

Keep anything combustible including a wooden mantel,  1 foot or more above the lintel (metal plate at the top of the fireplace opening).

2. Remove ash once it reaches the bottom of the grate, where it can prevent airflow (an inch of ash in the fireplace actually makes it easier to maintain a fire). For safety, wear a dust mask and gloves..

3. Every year at the burning season’s end, get your wood-burning fireplace and chimney cleaned by certified sweeps. If there is more than 1/8 inch of creosote and soot build-up inside of the chimney, have it inspected more often. The Chimney Safety Institute of America lists ~1,500 chimney professionals in 49 states that are CSIA Certified Chimney Sweeps.

4. Test out your fireplace.  Light from the top down, a few small pieces of seasoned wood. If smoke doesn’t rise from the fireplace into the chimney, but enters the room, troubleshoot and correct any problems. Problems can include creosote/soot build-up, other debris in the chimney like bird or animal nests, a fully or partially closed damper, or wet wood.

5. Burn only seasoned, not “green,” wood. “Green wood” is fresh cut wood that contains a lot of moisture. Seasoned wood has been cut and dried under cover for at least 6-12 months, having less than 20% moisture. Split wood dries more thoroughly and burns better than whole logs. Well-seasoned wood makes a sharp ringing sound when two logs are knocked together, while green wood sounds dull. Green wood will not burn as thoroughly, creating more soot and creosote.

6. Burn hardwoods, not soft woods. Hardwoods (e.g. oak, ash and maple) are denser and heavier. They deliver more heat than lighter softwoods (e.g. pine, poplar and cedar).

Add to tips section- Invest in good fire tools: a shovel, poker, brush and tongs.