Thingy Mahbob

✤ Things You Need ✤

DOLL BODY

A wooden cloth pin

A wooden toothpick (round kinds are better than flat kinds)

Wood cutting knife that is sharp

Precision saw

PVA glue or wood glue

A drill bit at the size of the thickness of your toothpick

Fine sand paper

Cut-protroection glove on your doll-holding hand

Pencil

DOLL FACE (optional if you paint your doll face instead of carving):

A small drill bit at the size of the doll's eyes you prefer

OPTIONAL THINGS:

Rotatory tool for sanding and refining (helps with hand / wrist pain)

✤ To make a Cloth Pin Peg Doll ✤

Cloth pins are wood pieces already in almost the shape of a doll. The head and legs are there. You just need to cut the two pins (the doll legs) to your prefered length, keeping in mind to cut it at a place where the leftover pins are long enough to be reused as doll arms.

0) Before you start, wear a cut resistant safety glove on your doll-holding hand.

1) I carved the leg shape first on the pins, but you can skip the carving if you want your doll even more minimalist. Make stop-cuts (carving term) at where the doll legs end on the pins. Then start carving away the back and front of the legs, but leave some uncarved space at the bottom front for its feet.

2) Cut the pin legs into desirable length with precision saw, but leave enough cut wood that will be long enough to be your doll's arms.

3) The excess cut pin legs will be your doll's arms. Carve them into desirable arm shapes. (Photo below showing right piece of wood carved into the left piece).

4) Use your drill bit in the size of your toothpick thickness to drill a hole at the shoulder of your doll body.

5) Drill 2 more holes on your carved doll arms, stop the hole at halfway through the arm without completely puncturing them.

6) Cut the toothpick into a length that fits through the doll's shoulder hole, with a little extra length to be glued into the doll arm holes.

Note: My doll's arms can only swing together and not separately. If you'd like yours to swing separately, you will have to drill the arm holes all the way through each arm, allow the doll arms to fit through the toothpick like beads, then add a stopper of some kind at the ends of the toothpick to keep the arms on without restricting its swinging movement.

7) Now is a good time to give the doll body and arms a good sanding, as well as sanding the toothpick ends flat. I used my rotary tool to sand and refine harder to reach areas like the inner calves of the doll.

8) Put the tootpick through the doll's shoulder hole

9) Attach each arm onto each end of the toothpick with glue. Careful to keep glue away from the shoulder hole so the toothpick can swing freely

10) Wait for glue to dry

Note: The doll is almost ready at this stage. All it needs is a face. I carved mine, but that is optional and it can be painted on instead

11) At the half point of the doll's head, make a stop-cut. Start carving the left and right side of the doll face flat from the base of the face, leaving the middle uncarved for a little. As the cheeks flatten, once there is enough nose protrusion, make a stop-cut at the end of the nose. Then also carve the mouth and chin area down flat. The face will be kind of a U shape, flat under the brow ridge

12) Carefully mark down where you want the eyes to be. I aimed for the middle of the brow width and middle of the nose length

13) Use the drill bit of what you want the doll eyes size to be, drill the eyes out. The deeper the holes are, the darker the eyes will be