Black Ocean

Roller Printed Day Dress

c. 1815

Dress in silk and wool tabby weave Challis, printed design of yellow, pink and red carnations with green stems and leaves on an olive ground, separate bodice and skirt not in original condition, bodice has a wide shaped neckline with pleating over shoulder and pleated self fabric over top of bodice meeting in v shape at centre front and back, boned and piped, sleeves gathered at shoulders and from elbows to cuffs and puffed in between, full skirt, obviously tightly gathered originally, trimmed and piped with green and violet silk ribbon, about 1836 to 1837.

Challis is a woven fabric which at this time would have been made of a blend of silk and wool. It was first manufactured in 1832, originating in Norwich. It was softer than many similarly priced alternatives, hence its name, which comes from the Anglo-Indian 'shallee'. The patterns are often floral, and inspired by French silk. The dress demonstrates the importance of Norwich in the domestic textile industry, pioneering new techniques to bring international fashions to Britain.