Milano is elegant, magnificent, represents in full display the Italian splendor. Without Torino's charm, Milano sets the trend and bar up high when it comes to architecture, schools, tech industry, fashion, packaging and design and conquers the mesmerized eye of those who visit her with an edgier approach.
High-end, cosmopolitan venues, as well as local trattorias create the intricate puzzle of this European capital. I arrived after a wild run in Principe Real Station in Genova, while checking out all the landscape change between Liguria, Piemonte and Lombardia from sunny beaches, snowy mountains to cloudy cities. On arrival, the gloomy yet impressive Milano Centrale welcomed me to my last spot on this Italian adventure. Its art-deco facade and design reminds people of its splendor and importance: it is the 8th busiest in Europe.
After getting my negative PCR I awaited for Ana at Greta's place, my airbnb hostest. Once together, we went straight to the city's core: Duomo and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele. This was the coldest night of my stayed, yet in Fashionland, we couldnt be shy. We geared up in our fanciest suits and hit the town. We went around the main Piazza, while checking out the subtle Christmas lightening (I would see for myself how two days later, a winter market and a massive display of ornaments and decoration would overtake the city center) while catching up on my Genovese adventures. We revamped our luck by turning on our heels on the iconic tile bull at the Galleria. Let me explain further: under the central dome, there are four mosaics portraying the coat of arms of the four capitals of the Kingdom of Italy, today known as Torino, Firenze, Roma and Milano. Legend says that if a person spins around three times with a heel on the bull's balls from Torino's coat of arms this will bring good luck to the pain perpetrator. 2022, dont you dare to prove me wrong - I have the Kingdom of Torino's backing me up!
The Galleria is majestic, massive and beautiful. Full of bookstores, patisseries and high-end fashion stores, is the compulsory stop for whomever visits Milano. Not only it is one of the oldest glass-covered galleries in Europe, but it is also a central meeting point and luxury shopping venue. Inside you will find the original Prada store, Gucci and Louis Vuitton, just to name a few.
It is extremely wonderful and personally, I enjoyed it and loved it much more than the Duomo itself. Conceived by the Italian architect Giuseppe Mengoni, it was designed in 1861 and finally built between 1865 and 1877. I guess I've seen impressive churches before, but this approach to gallerias, one that highlights public areas of entertainment, in the main square of one of the wealthiest Italian Monarchies, while generating a meeting and gathering venues between the palace and the church was truly unique. Since it couldnt haven been in any other way, Dutchess Ana and the Princess Daniela, decided to treat themselves to Cafe Cracco, one of the iconic places decorating one of this Galleria's main corners, right in front of Mondadori bookstore. We had two cappuccinos and a delicious pistachio cheesecake - what a delight!
Later on, we checked out more and more beautiful bookstores. We got lost finding the iconic Teatro alla Scalla, which is very somber and plain on the outside, with a very clean facade, but apparently is magical on the inside. There was a line to see a show, so I guess the people kind of support that statement. We had the most delicious dinner at Taberna San Tomaso (Via S. Tomaso, 5). We had a scrumptious cotoletta alla milanese with fries and risotto osobucco to share, and toasted to the last chapter so far (more to come, Anita!) with some delicious red wine. We wont deny nor confirm we had dinner with Stanley Tucci. Not really sure if we had some dessert or not, but we definitely had a digestif by the piazza, at Terrazza Aperol at the Mercado del Duomo, not the best terrace near by but definitely the one with the best marketing. Besides, if you want to try any kind of aperol, this is your place to go. We enjoyed our terrace view and complete the photo book we started at the Galleria.
The following day we kicked it off early on with some croissants at Milano Centrale and said goodbye to episode 7 of Dani and Ana Looking forward to season 8, amiga!
Milano is well known for its vast and extensive museum landscape. You can create a whole itinerary with a different museum for each day if you want. I only focused on two: Cenacolo Vinciano and Museo della Cultura.
Some days ago, I booked my place to attend to Cenacolo Vinciano, the exclusive area of the Santa Maria della Grazie Church where L'ultima Cena de Leonardo Da Vince is being displayed. It's a massive mural that survived WWII, a bomb falling exactly right next to it yet it is still standing, and after many restorations is now being able to excite art fans, Christians and tourists alike. Reservation is required since access is only granted for groups of 30 people at a time, with a visit that last 30 mins.
I took the metro towards Milano Porta Genova and had an espresso at Osteria del Binari (Via Tortona 1/3) to later head over to Museo della Cultura, MUDEC. Although I wanted to check out the Disney's storytelling exhibit, L'arte da raccontare storie senza tempo, I was greatly surprised by Milano Globale: il mundo visto da qui, the recently renewed, permanent exhibit that portrays the global influx, the cultural nuances and the constant exchange between countries, continents and people that happened in Milano. From the colonial transactions between Europe, Americas, Africa and Asia to the Italian boom of the 50s and 60s, to the current reconfiguration of Italian society embracing migration and redefining what being Italian looks like, dresses like, produces ad consumes in the XXI century.
I headed back towards Parco Sempione, very closed to the Castello Sforzesco, and had lunch at a local venue, L'angolo di casa, I randomly discovered it and had some delicious pasta alla vongole. What an amazing double discovery: not only this place had great service and food, but also finding hidden vongole on what I thought was plain pomodoro pasta was pure perfection.
Back in Piazza Duomo, enters Luigi. This sweet, charming Calabrese took me around town, invited me some coffee at B Cafe, showed me around the street artists and the Naviglio area. We toasted with a local beer at Luca e Andrea to finally take a stroll to Nonna's pasta class.
I've never done an Airbnb Experience before, but since Bruna's Master Class, the bar has been set up quite high. This class included an aperitivo, while we learned how to make authentic tiramisu, tagliatelle and ravioli. In my house, cooking is a religion. La mia Nona, (yes, with just one N) cooked deliciously, and so did il mio Nono, and my parents. Each one with their own speciality, great decisions, awful conversations, terrible discussions, grief sessions and joyful announcements have always happened around a set table. And preparing it, was also part of a greater ritual. So, I barely went for the authentic recipe, I mostly went to experience something that resembles home. I wasnt there for the food: I was there as a homage to my own Nona, and this experience really delivered. Bruna was working together with her souschef, her grand daughter, in her beautiful house she got with lire back in the day by Parco Solari. Daughter of an Italian diplomat, she travelled the world and experienced different cuisines while working on the tourism industry. She retired and decided to share the kitchen family secrets with the world. Bruna spoke perfect English and hosted 3 hours of a charming example of Italian hospitality.
I met Mau and checked out Navigli. We went to MAG for a delicious drink. This is an elegant cocktail bar option, with a relaxed atmosphere and they truly serve one of the best cocktails in the city.
Went home, had some panettonino with tea, and got ready for the next morning. Visited Gelsomina and had the most outstanding breakfast treat: the Maritozzo. Originally from Lazio, it is a sweet bread flavored with orange zest and panna. A fascinating flavor and sponginess, I believe this is how angels' kisses probably taste and feel like.
Bites and KMs intel: It was tradition that the boyfriend and future husband (maritozzi: husband, from there takes its name this sweet bread) gave the girlfriend this sweet as a sign of his love and also used to hide a ring inside. The sugar glaze symbolized two trapped hearts. I think it would be perfect if someone asked me to marry this sweet… In fact, I would fall down after the first bite and be happy forever and ever.
I checked out the parks and walked around town, to finally made it to Gardine dell Orto de Brea, where I highly recommend to book in advance and check out the Pinacoteca, located at Università degli Studi di Milano. This is where Edward Munch's The Kiss is displayed. Last but not least, I had some well deserved pizza at Napiz (Viale Vittorio Veneto 30) while enjoying a bit of karaoke before closure.
Had another coffee with Luigi at Caffineria, the perfect blend between a winery or a vineria in Italian, and a cafe, before heading to Beltrade Cinema to watch the premiere of E stata la mano di dio.
I run back to the airbnb to rest for a bit and get some warmer clothes before walking to Isola, a gentrified, cool neighborhood 15 mins away from my area. Went to meet Sandro and Stefania at Frida, where great tapas, great drinks, great times happened to occurred. It was fascinating to see how everything yet little changed between us, catching up after exactly 5 years. Grazie dear amici! Once again, a glance of Singapore with Italian flair, courtesy of 2017-18 Ogilvy tenure.
Had an ophthalmologist appointment that evening and it was absolutely wonderful to realized I was wearing the wrong glasses all along. The sight still hurts, but the possibility of seeing life back in technicolor was a relief. And this trip was the best medical prescription. Grazie Dr. Schipani!
The following morning, I woke up early to pack and had a nice coffee at BiancoLatte. I continued my walk to the Montenapoleone area, checked out the high-end stores, got mesmerized at the local fashion, went back to the city center, explored the Galleria and the Duomo while listening to Bella Ciao one last time before heading to Malpensa. Got some goodies at Dispensa Emilia. These were called Tigelle, and are thin, 10cm round breads from the Apennines in the Modena area of Emilia-Romagna that resembles bocadillos from Spain. Italy told me goodbye with this wonderful and delicious surprise, and she knows, it was just the cherry on top for me to say not goodbye but Ci vediamo presto.
