#aperitivi

🐟 POLPETTE DI TONNO IN PADELLA NON FRITTE, facili e veloci da realizzare e sfiziosissime! 😋

🫕 RICETTA QUI 👇👇👇

"If you want to catch a glimpse of Italy as it has been lived for centuries, rather than simply something that looks good on postcards, come to Genova". — Nicholas Walton

Genova reminds me a bit of Barcelona. In every corner of the streets, in every little alley, you just need to direct your gaze to the sky to notice facades of sumptuous buildings that you won’t notice if you are distracted and, if you are curious enough, you will find that everywhere there is something that will catch your eye and will leave you speechless. After a beautiful drive through Langhe Region, a delicious and traditional Piamontese lunch in L' Aromatario, a beautiful osteria and B&B in the lost, charming town of Neive, we arrived just in time for sunset to beautiful Genova with my dear Mau. We got lost on their maze-like streets, trying to find a hidden parking, almost like a compulsory welcoming ritual. And then, the fun part of them all, was climbing the steep hills (dont be like me, bring a backpack), carrying my big-ass suitcase, walking down the prostitutes alley, to finally end up in a 4 walk-up, almost 5 flights apartment, covered in unique postcards. What a workout!

Stefano's and Sarah's apartment was a great found gem. Strategically located a few blocks away from Porto Antico, 2 blocks from the Heritage World Site Via Garibaldi where the famous Palazzo Rosso is, and very close by University of Genova, each little corner of this Airbnb was a treasure to be discovered: from movie seats instead of couches, to amazing quotes in the bathroom and unique clocks spread out across the kitchen.

We decided it was time for a Genovese focaccia, a tradition one should not miss while visiting this Ligurian coast city. We barely made it to sunset and it was a beautiful way to discover the port side. A bit windy, a bit cold, but perfectly gorgeous. We later got lost - it is the thing to do, by the way - and ended up by Genova's Duomo or Catedrale di San Lorenzo, patron of the city, to later wonder around the city's main arteries to just keep exploring and check out the different piazzas and buildings around the old town. Piazza Ferrari is the city's heart and between wonderful buildings and fountains one can experience a glance of this city's past glamour and history. Keep your eyes upwards while you walk through the covered walkway via XX Settembre, the main shopping street born in this piazza; you will notice wonderful ceilings and you will see the characteristic colors of the ancient Genova nobility everywhere: black and white.

Moreover, Palazzo Ducale - today's Genova's Museum and Teatro Carlo Felice are by the piazza's sides, framing a beautiful Genova Center ready to mesmerize you. Caruggi is the word in the Genoese dialect that describes the “peculiar and narrow covered walkways and shady alleys of lots of cities and little towns of the Italian Riviera” and exactly by one of those caruggi is where we have the most delicious apperitivo of them all at Il Mugugno, by Via Luccoli. I was excited to taste another Aperol Spritz yet the waitress surprised us with an unexpected and magnificent feast: mortadella, salami, burrata with pomodori sechi, fried ravioli, pancetta, another kind of cheese, fries and probably something else I cant remember. What a wonderful night, drinking with a very good friend, honoring our nonni, enjoying the most delicious cold cuts, appreciating the good and small things in life. I bet a tear or two went down, but hell, that was how we watered the fertile soil of Italian memories. Salutte, amica!

Not only those tiny and curvy caruggi were extremely picturesque, but most of them also had some messages like imagina, credi, memoria. Im not sure if it was due to the Christmas spirit or if it is an ongoing decor, but it made them even more charming.

The following morning, we woke up quite early since I was taking a train to Cinque Terre and Mau was working so we decided to share a short and sweet breakfast around our place: some compulsory cappucino and pastries and off we go. We both have our priorities quite on point so, as soon as we met again that evening, a dinner date was taking place.

Mau surprised me with a short ride to Boccadasse, a near-by fishing villa, to Creuza da Mar, a traditional Ligurian restaurant by a cute little beach and the town's Church. We had some delicious grilled octopus, fresh with with smashed potatoes, pomodori and pinoni (pine nuts), as well as some pasta. We married them with house red wine, a Ligurian treat, and wrapped it with some amaro with orange. It was wonderful. We kept thinking about where and when we will meet again (it ended up being in Milano 2 days later) yet, we were ok with no the no-plan-plan. It always turns out beautifully for us, so we wont jinx it. 2022, we are ready for you! Another one for the books!

We arrived to Stefano's to find out a message with a late-nightcap recco: go down the infinite stairs (again) to find the secret speak-easy called Malkovich, literally 3 mins away from where we were. I lost Mau to the bed and the warm bath, but I couldnt resist finding a secret bar with my rusty Italian on my last night at Genova, after being mesmerized by the beauty of Cinque Terre and having such a wonderful day. So, there I went. One should look out for Groove Hamburger, since there is no sign about the bar, and just casually ask for a drink at Malkovich. Of course I played the lost and charming tourist card, implying that I would be fluent in Italian with a couple of more drinks and even though it was 45mins to closure time, they let me in for one last round. A beautiful, charming wine cellar behind the burger kitchen was the perfect den to do so. Next morning, the red Ferrari of Bites&Kms went out for one last round, checking out Via Garibaldi and Piazza Ferrari. It was rainy and extremely cold. But what a lovely feeling being able to have a delicious breakfast at a charming little cafe by only €1.50. It felt weird to finally be by myself after so much love during these past days. But not for long: 20 mins after my expected arrival at Milano, Ana will be joining me for one last round.

But I yet had one more thing to taste in Genova: the real pesto Genovese, and for that, there is no better place than Trattoria da Mario, by Salita di S. Paolo, 28, a few meters away from Stazione Principe Real. I was soooo sorry I got confused with all my previous day train schedules that I needed to run back to take my train and left half of my plate and house wine. That god's treat was only €7, a big and delicious trofie pesto pasta dish and wine, can you believe it? But what a lovely experienced it was: Mario's was a unique place, the real deal and traditional place, where I happened to be the only woman and obviously the only foreigner (ok, I accept my Italian passport wasnt good enough for the 120% made in Genova sailors) and both, Mario and two other waiters were taking orders like crazy. Hungry sailors, fishermen, working men, and I assume some proper prostitutes frequent this Trattoria from time to time, making this a gold mine for Mario. Free bread basket, an old lady pouring the wine, Mario making speed math on the fly to charge the tables, greasy silverware and very loud guest was as real as it gets, Italy as its best. I was in love. There was no more room, everything was taken, communal tables were happening, disregarding green pass and covid. It felt like good old times. I knew I was on the right place. And damn that food was delicious. I am still hurt for not being able to finish it, but Milan and Ana were waiting!